#sightsofaileach

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Equinox at Grianán

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The Milky Way over Grianán

Watched the shadow of Earth crossing our moon with amazement and awe. 

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Carrickabraghy Castle

Carrickabraghy Castle in glorious sunlight, Isle of Doagh, Inishowen.

The restored remains belong to Phelemy Brasleigh O’Doherty's castle from around 1600. The O'Doherty of Cenél Conaill from the Laggan Valley gained lordship of Inishowen in the 14th century after the defeat of the Mac Lochlainns of Cenél nEógain. They manifested their power by building castles, amongst them Carrickabraghy.

Doubtless their Norman style stronghold was established over an already existing bastion on this rather wild and windy spot, going back five hundred years, according to the annals. The previous rulers of the Isle were called O Maolfabhail, the servants of Feabhail (anglicised Foyle, probably the name of a local deity after whom Lough Foyle was named).

But people inhabited the Isle of Doagh for much longer. The wonderful rock art found can be dated to the Neolithic. A perfect strategic position will remain so through time and one wonders what may have once stood on this rock.

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At the top of Grianán hill

Watching the moon rise. 

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Clandestine Castlestuke, Isle of Doagh

It must be one of the most unlikely places where the site of a castle could possibly be suspected. Nevertheless, Castlestuke is perched on top of a wonderfully weathered rock outcrop, sitting right beside a larger one, intriguingly called Dunmore (Big Fort).

Nothing can be found on the latter, except for splendid views all across Trawbreaga Bay, Malin and majestic hills to the south, making its much smaller sibling even more an implausible candidate as a site for noble habitation.

A desperate urge for absolute isolation becomes apparent when recollections of former sea levels are taken into consideration, stating that the rock was ‘insulated by every tide’, which no longer is the case. But despite not having to wait for the tide to recede, access to the summit of the rock still remains treacherous and not for the faint hearted. No obvious approach from the land/south side is visible, making going up a matter of navigating even the smallest of nooks and crannies.

Having managed surprisingly to reach the top, the little space available for anything left a worrying gap between the name of Castlestuke and what could be accommodated on something that small and would house only a cabin or hut, roughly 5 to 6 meters long and 2 to 3 meters wide.

The notions of a keep, never mind a castle, and two or more floors might be stretched with so little room left to build upon. A small rectangular hole occupies what seem to be the centre of the structure, approximately a meter in depth, less in width and slightly larger in length. Although its existence has been mentioned by Swan and Colhoun, no thoughts or elaborations have been made as to its purpose and this curious depression still escapes explanation why it was there or what it may have been used for. But whatever was built upon the rock is said to have been placed there on behalf of Feilimi Brasleach O Dochartaigh, the Lord of Carraig Bhrachai around 1600, to shelter his infant son from an outbreak of the smallpox.

Sadly his effort were in vain and the young boy died of the epidemic. Although taken by the heroic attempt of a father to save his son, this may not have been necessarily or exclusively the reason for erecting a structure on an isolated rock. Afterall, these were very troublesome times.

Henry Docwra had arrived via Lough Foyle in May 1600 and established an English garrison at Derry, ringing in the conquest of Inishowen. And despite the O’Dohertys paying tribute to the O’ Neills and O’ Donnells, both frequently raided Inishowen additionally, forcing Docwra to fortify it almost immediately in an attempt to prevent his precious hinterland larder getting constantly plundered of supplies and cattle.

But the people of Inishowen had already developed their own cunning ways to safe guard what was not due for taking.A conflict amongst the Irish over succession broke out in 1601 after the dead of Sean Og O Dochartaigh, Lord of Inishowen, leading Aodh Rua O Donaill, Lord of Tir Chonaill, to inaugurate Sean Og’s half brother Feilim Og as new chieftain, instead of Cathaoir Rua, Sean Og’s teenage son, much to the disagreement of local nobles.

Hostilities broke out, ending in a bloody battle, within sight of the castle at Carraig Bhrachai, on the sands of Pollan Bay, defeating the supporters of O Donaill and Cathaoir Rua O Dochartaigh became Inishowen’s tragic and last Gaelic chieftain.

And in 1603, according to the Annals of the Four Masters, ‘An intolerable famine prevailed all over Ireland.’

Considering the troublesome circumstances of this time, there may have been additional reasons to that of a father trying to protect his child for erecting a small building on a nearly inaccessible rock.

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Druid’s Altar, Drung, Lough Foyle, Inishowen

A solitary stone is now all that is left of an ancient monument with no indication as to its purpose.But with eternally splendid views.

The 6 feet tall stone was most likely part of a larger monument which may have been a stone circle. But with neither traditions nor traces surviving, except that once there was a second stone, there is sadly no way to establish what might have stood on this ridge.The place name though might perhaps provide an interesting inside. Drung (Ir. drong) signifies a place where ‘a crowd or people gathered together for a particular purpose’.

Which they still actually do to this day and have done so for a long time at the foot of the ridge where now the new church of St Columba’s stands

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Dramatic Weather

The weather forecast made promises of lightning but only gave thunder in the distance.

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The fallen guardian of Fegart Point

The large stone, at least 6 ft, now lying on the southern shore of the Isle of Doagh, is a bit of a mystery. It is the only one know on the Isle to have packing stones and so far I have not be able to trace any surviving tradition concerning this wonderful stone.

And it is not only in people’s memory where the fallen warrior makes a disappearance. It is clearly marked on the 1st edition of the Ordnance Survey 6 inch map (1829-41), standing already somewhat in the water. Curiously, a few years later during Griffith’s Valuation (1848-64) the stone is no longer shown on the map nor on the following 25 inch OS map (1897-1913).

Neither Maghtochair, Harry P. Swan or Mabel Colhoun make any mention in their books of the stone either. But Brian Lacey in his ‘Archaeological Survey of County Donegal’ does (P.81, 412):

“A standing stone 3.04 m high x  1.06 m wide x  .18 m .thick. Situated in tidal waters off Fegart Point and is locally believed to be a monument and not a navigation mark.”

With more standing stones, Cloghtogle, the cross incised stone with possible ogham being one of them, a Cillín and amazing rock art within a short walking distance, this now fallen guardian of the Isle, facing Inishowen proper, would have been most likely part of a more sacred than pragmatic landscape.

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