The Medieval Cave City of Vardzia, in Georgia (South Caucasus), c.1150-1283 CE: this cave city was originally built as a fortress that lay hidden within the mountain, and it included more than 6,000 caves, 25 wine cellars, 15 chapels, an apothecary, a forge, a bakery, farming terraces and an irrigation system
This enormous cave complex is carved along a section of the Erusheti mountain range, which is located at the foothills of the Caucasus, in southern Georgia (Sakartvelo). As this map illustrates, Georgia stands right at the crossroads between Europe and Asia.
Vardzia was designed to serve as a fortress, particularly in the event of a Mongol invasion. The entire cave city was originally concealed within the mountain (though much of it is now exposed) and it could only be accessed through a series of hidden passageways that began near the banks of the Mtkvari River, which runs through the valley below. The city was also protected by defensive walls, and it contained a secret escape tunnel, along with several dead-end tunnels that were designed to delay and confuse any invading forces.
In its prime, the cave city at Vardzia was inhabited by tens of thousands of residents. It featured more than 6,000 chambers spread out across nearly 20 different levels, all of which were connected by an intricate labyrinth of tunnels, staircases, terraces, and hidden passageways. The city included 25 wine cellars (which is almost enough to survive a Mongol invasion), 15 churches, dozens of monastic cells, hundreds of additional dwellings, a nunnery, a throne room, a library, a bakery, an apothecary, a forge, several dining halls, a cemetery, a bell-tower, a series of stables, farming terraces, and an irrigation system, among other things.
Water was supplied using a system of aqueducts that were connected to the river in the valley below, providing the inhabitants with both drinking water and agricultural irrigation.
Vardzia also functioned as a Georgian Orthodox monastery; in addition to its many chapels, it also contained dozens of monastic chambers that were inhabited by monks, along with a large collection of religious manuscripts and relics. Many of the inner chambers at the site were decorated with elaborate frescos depicting the life of Christ, the history of the Georgian Orthodox Church, and major figures from Georgian history/folklore.
Unfortunately, most of the original structures at Vardzia were destroyed by a massive earthquake that struck the region in 1283 CE, less than a century after the site was completed. The earthquake sheared away part of the mountainside, exposing the cave complex and demolishing almost two-thirds of the site.
The surviving cave system represents only a fraction of the original city, which now contains less than 645 chambers and only 13 levels. The network of caves stretches roughly 500 meters across the cliffside.
When the earthquake tore through the site in 1283, much of the fortress and many of its defenses were also destroyed, and Vardzia lost most of its military and defensive purposes, but the site continued to operate as a monastery for several centuries after that. It narrowly escaped the Mongol Invasions of the 1290s, but it was eventually raided by the Persians in 1551. The invading forces looted many of the valuable artifacts from the site and burned most of the remaining manuscripts, relics, and other items that were stored within the cave system, leaving permanent scorch marks along the walls of the inner chambers.
Vardzia was ultimately abandoned after the Ottomans took control of the site in 1578.
Medieval portrait of Queen Tamar, the "Mountain Queen:" this portrait is one of the few Medieval frescoes that still decorate the inner chambers of Vardzia
The cave city of Vardzia is often associated with Queen Tamar the Great, who ruled over the Kingdom of Georgia from 1184 to 1213 CE, during a particularly successful period known as the "Golden Age" of Georgian history. Queen Tamar was also recognized as the Georgian King, with Medieval sources often referring to her as "King Tamar," because she held the title of queen regnant (meaning that she possessed the full power, position, and authority of a sovereign king). She was the first female monarch to be given that title in Georgia.
The initial phases of construction at Vardzia began under the command of Tamar's father, King Georgi III, but most of the complex was later built at the behest of Queen Tamar herself, who owned several dedicated rooms at Vardzia and frequently visited the cave city. Due to her relationship with the cave complex at Vardzia, Queen Tamar was also known as the "Mountain Queen."
Some of the monastic caves at this site have been revived in recent decades, and they are once again inhabited by a handful of Georgian monks.
Many of the remaining structures at Vardzia are also open to the public, though many of the chambers and passageways are narrow, steep, and difficult to access. I visited Vardzia during one of my first trips to Georgia back in 2012, and it truly is a spectacular site, especially in the chambers where the Medieval frescoes are still intact.
Sources & More Info:
Atlas Obscura: Vardzia Cave Monastery
CNN: Exploring Vardzia, Georgia's Mysterious Rock-Hewed Cave City
Lonely Planet: Vardzia
Globonaut: 5 Facts about Vardzia, Georgia's Hidden Cave City
Wander Lush: Vardzia Cave Monastery (complete visitor's guide)
