The Recipe for Identity: How Culture Influences Cuisine
Written by: Faith Kadoshima // Edited by: Chhy Chhy Yeak
Humans have a unique relationship to food that other beings do not possess. Food plays an emotional role in addition to the sole purpose of survival. Food is comfort. Food is celebration. Food is therapy. Whether it’s the smell of chocolate chip cookies or banana bread, my mother’s cooking evokes feelings of nostalgia and a sense of home. No matter the season, food provides the opportunity to connect with others.
Food is deeply rooted in universal experiences, yet it can be divisive. Food is ingrained in cultural identity, unfortunately justifying divisions in cultural beliefs and expectations. In the past, peoples in the West viewed people in foreign cultures as cannibals, a symbol of evil in ancient times. This accusation contributed to the belief of Western superiority and the justification of the civilized reforming the uncivilized (Barilla Center for Food Nutrition [BCFN], n.d.). Although the historical context of food is an extreme example, barriers stemming from cultural variation in cuisine still persist today. Food is a paradox: a symbolic celebration of diverse cultures yet has the subtle capacity for the ostracization of “foreign” peoples.
Despite the negative impacts of alienation in certain groups, food offers an opportunity to learn about other cultures and their history. Preparation and the cuisine itself is heavily influenced by social practices, lifestyle, and historical significance of that particular culture. “Table manners” are important aspects of Western society, thus recognizing food-related etiquette provides knowledge of cultural customs and practices (Sibal, 2018). Historical influences on the cultural evolution of cuisine and fusions of cultures are also pertinent today. Here are a few examples I found interesting:
1. In the 20th century, the Japanese military avoided regional differences of cuisine to promote national unity. The dietary norms of the Japanese military adopted European dishes to promote the soldiers’ stamina. Urbanization and Western influences heavily contributed to the “gentrification” of regional cuisine, and many traditional foods today are recent introductions of Japanese diet. (Association for Asian Studies [AAS], 2020). Despite modern interpretations of Japanese cuisine, tradition still plays an important role in preparation and dining. Japanese food is referred to as Washoku, reflecting a deep sense of respect for nature and emphasis on using local ingredients, such as fish and rice (Lush, 2020). The level of respect and detail in the preparation and presentation of dishes also reflects the traditional social values of modern Japan.
2. The Mediterranean diet is another example of cultural integration and social values reflected in cuisine, in which dining is perceived as a social ritual. Food waste is avoided by preparing small dishes and emphasizing sharing, such as the popular “tapas culture”. Gathering food also has an important role in society, since markets bring people together and helps support local businesses (Lush, 2020).
3. The African diaspora in America divided Black individuals from their families and their culture. During the Black Power Movement of the 20th century, “soul food” was coined as an umbrella term for Black people’s home cooking. Soul food helped unite Black people with their community as well as their cultural heritage. Adrian Miller, a food scholar, noted that the Southern values associated with food, such as hospitality, are directly rooted in Africa. However, the common misconception of “White” and “Southern” as interchangeable creates a division of Southern cuisine and soul food, as well as erasing Black identities and contributing to harmful stigmas regarding racial biases of food (Terr, 2020).
It is uncommon for modern food to have a singular cultural origin; almost all dishes and practices are hybrids from cross-cultural influences. Cuisine is tied to the past, yet cuisine is also an opportunity for innovation. The blending of ideas has created discussions about the cultural appropriation of food. There are different definitions of the cultural appropriation of food, ranging from trendy “sushi burritos” to a person or business of a non-marginalized group appropriating a different culture for profit. For example, two White American women opened a Mexican food cart in Portland in which their menu used recipes from people while on a trip to Puerto Nuevo, Mexico. The owners were accused of cultural appropriation and stealing recipes, thus subsequently shutting down their business (Albala, 2019). Debates surrounding cultural appropriation have led to certain questions:
1.) Where is the line between cultural appropriation and cultural appreciation of food?
2.) How does one define the authenticity of food?
3.) Are businesses responsible for preventing cultural appropriation or is consumer behavior the root of the problem?
Cultural appropriation of food is not a means for only one cultural group to create dishes of that particular culture. However, cultural appropriation opens conservations in acknowledging negative connotations of assimilation.
Cuisine honors tradition and cultural heritage. Each generation has an appreciation of a favorite family recipe that has been handed down through the years. Many immigrants experience a loss of culture, yet food is often the only cultural aspect that is transported with them and an important means to connect with one’s own heritage. Similar to many other experiences of Asian-Americans, I have felt removed from my culture since my grandparents immigrated from the Philippines. My inability to speak Tagalog has hindered my communication and development of relationships within my own community. However, feelings of detachment disappear once I mention lumpia, pancit, or halo halo. Food is the initial step of coming into contact with both different and familiar cultures, “given that eating the food of others seems easier...than decodifying their language” (BCFN, n.d.). Food touches us all in different ways but also reaches out as a universal language. May the next cuisine serve up a platter of conversation, culture, and community.
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Albala, K. (2019, February 15). Food “columbusing” and the debate over cultural
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Association for Asian Studies. (2020, August 26). Cuisine and identity in contemporary Japan.
https://www.asianstudies.org/publications/eaa/archives/cuisine-and-identity-in-contemporary-japan/
Barilla Center for Food Nutrition. (n.d.) The cultural dimension of food. The BCFN Foundation.
https://www.barillacfn.com/m/publications/pp-cultural-dimension-of-food.pdf
Lush, E. (2020, December 31). 23 Amazing culinary traditions around the world. Wander-Lush.
https://wander-lush.org/food-culture-unesco/
Sibal, V. (2018, September). Food: Identity of culture and religion. ResearchGate.
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