Porto is usually skimmed over as people head off to do the more glamorous Duoro Valley wine tours but slow down and spend a couple of days in the city that gave the world port, find the bookshop that inspired the library at Hogwarts and discover one of Europe’s great museums of contemporary art.
Everyone does The Six Bridges tour and it is one of the most scenic ways to get oriented inthe city . The six bridges tour is a boat tour that takes you under Porto’s six bridges one of which, the D. Maria bridge were built by Gustav Eiffel of Eiffel tower fame. I quite liked the more minimalist and very modern Dom Henrique bridge further on the tour. The big cast iron bridge you see here is a Porto landmark and is called the Luiz 1 bridge. After the tour, walk across the second level of this bridge to the other side, enjoy a stroll along the the port cellars and then take the cable car back . Save time – book tickets in advance as queues can get long .
You can’t be in Porto without some port tastings at Villa Nova de Gaia across the river, an easy walk across the Luiz 1 bridge. Port has a colourful history. It is a highly fortified wine ie brandy is added to it during fermentation and it is produced only in the Duoro region. It is aged in oak barrels for anything from ten to fifty years, perhaps more. A lot of the port caves or cellars have British names and British owners. For some reason the British have historically been obsessed with it -gentlemen in period tales always retired to drink port post dinner while ladies had to be content with a little madeira or sherry in the drawing room. The British were constantly fighting the French so they couldn’t really drink French wines and they did have Portuguese queens. We know because Bombay was a gift from one such queen. Thankfully port is quite ungendered now and is enjoying a revival in cocktails especially white port. Do visit some of the smaller boutique Portuguese owned cellars. We loved our visit to Quinta des Corvos, though Sandeman had some good copy and hordes of visitors. At most cellars the port flights are excellent and I discovered a whole new world – white port, tawny port, ruby port, vinatge port and other classifications I have forgotten .
ps Port is rather strong so if you are not much of a drinker stick to a single glass tasting -cellars have several paid combinations to choose from and some have their own river front restaurants too which give you great views of Porto from across the river.
Livraria Lello et Irmao has been called one of the most beautiful bookshops in the world and it is the bookshop that inspired the library at Hogwarts. It is a tourist trap but it is worth queuing up if you are a Rowling and Harry Potter fan. J K Rowling lived and taught English at Porto university for ten years and even the uniforms of the Hogwarts students are inspired by the scholars’ robes at the university . For book lovers there is an amazing selection of books if you can get to them- go after tourist hours. There is an entry fee so buy your ticket before you join the queue.
For the full Porto experience you have to try a cholesterol bomb ( sorry Porto! ) called the Francesinha. It was invented in Porto and it is made with thick slices of ham and sausage wedged into thick slices of white bread then blanketed with sheets of cheese grilled lightly so the cheese melts but the bread is not toasted. It is then dunked in a peri peri kind of beery sauce. We got ours with French fries on the side. Take that Eat street ! This is available everywhere in Porto and now I hear chefs are trying to give it a gourmet twist, but gourmet it is not . You have to try it if you are in Porto and there are lists of places serving the best ones but vegetarians please excuse.
Fear not if you find the fish and pork excesses getting to you. DaTerra, on Rue Silveria is an absolute gem of a discovery – a delicious vegan unlimited buffet at euro 9.90 We went there twice and the food is fresh and innovative. Get there early as food gets over fast and the crowd gets there early. There is a bit of a system in how to get service so follow it .
Go Blue tile or Azueljo spotting . Porto has a lot of well preserved blue tile work on its public monuments and facades so check them out in the small churches, the See cathedral, the Sao Bento railway station and sometimes you can get a flash of blue on some old decrepit building you pass by . Wandering about is a good way to explore the old city .
The House Ribera hotel, conveniently located one street behind the river is a small boutiq-uey hotel with super service including free mobile phones loaded with useful Porto apps to use when in residence. Plus point- Breakfast is served with a glass of complimentary tawny port and the knowledgeable bartender will talk you through the history of great ports and whip up some interesting white port-inis and cocktails too.
On the other more modern side of Porto is the Serralves Museum and Foundation which is a must visit for art lovers . Even if contemporary art is not your thing, the magnificent themed gardens with artworks by Claes Oldenburg and Richard Serra, the Pritzker award winning museum architecture and the superbly preserved art deco Casa Serrlaves are worth the trip. You can easily spend a day here There is a cafe at the museum but it was shut the day we went there.
More on the art in another blog.
Things to do in Porto, Portugal Porto is usually skimmed over as people head off to do the more glamorous Duoro Valley wine tours but slow down and spend a couple of days in the city that gave the world port, find the bookshop that inspired the library at Hogwarts and discover one of Europe's great museums of contemporary art.