Italy's best wines screwed over
Hot on the heels of the screwcap initiative winning the 2012 Maurice O’Shea Award comes the news that Italy has conceded some ground in the alternative closure debate.
The Italian Ministry of Agriculture has amended its decree of July 1993 to permit some DOCG wines to be bottled under screwcap - but crucially, not all.
Wines which have the name of a vineyard or sub-zone on their label do not receive the benefit of the amendment. This tallies with higher priced and higher quality wines: in other words, as we already see with so many foreign wines, the highest quality wines of a given estate will not benefit from the concession.
According to English wine importer David Gleave, who has been a leading agitator for change – as reported on decanter.com – the amendment means regional consorzios can now apply to Rome for approval to change their local laws.
Gleave said that so far, wineries in Chianti, Gavi, Barolo and Barbaresco had applied to their consorzios to implement the change. A majority of members of the consorzio must vote for the change before it can go the next step.
Thus far, the law prohibits Italian wines with DOCG names from using anything but cork. Those with the less-stringent DOC, such as the Pieropan Soave by my elbow as I write, can already use screwcaps if they wish.