#dusita

[parfumeux]

Chypre Chypre (pronounced [ʃipʁ] or she-pruh) finds it origins in Francis Coty’s fragrance by the same name. Characterised by bergamot-labdanum-oakmoss accords, fall into numerous classes according to their modifier notes, which include but are not limited to leather, florals, fruits, and many more.

Here are the few I sampled from contemporary to classical.

[parfumery-wiki]

La Douceur de Siam (eau de parfum) Dusita

Floral

A perfume of strange, nocturnal beauty, La Douceur de Siam is like walking into a Thai spice garden overhung with night-blooming flowers.

Top notes: Rose de Mai, Frangipani, Champaca, Green carnation, Ylang ylang, Violet leaves Heart notes: Cinnamon, Thai chalood bark Base notes: Vanilla, Mysore sandalwood, Amber, Ambergris

[vaga-muffin]

Came to Puerto Rico with these fragrances. Let's see what the environment pulls out of them. 

[pocketvenuslux]

My highest femme fragrances

Femininity is a social construction. Nowhere is this more apparent than in the world of perfumes where woods are marketed to men and florals to women. I used to resist the idea of ascribing gender to any fragrance because it all seemed so arbitrary. I do believe that anyone who enjoys a perfume should wear it regardless of who it’s being marketed too. Having said that, I’ve started to appreciate the use of scent in the artifice of signifying gender, so without further ado, here are six feminine fragrances that signal to me the heights of high femme presentation.

Femme by Rochas

Starting off with the most obvious choice, Femme is an aptly named fruity chypre. Opens with a brazen hit of cumin and unfurls sensuously into plush florals under which pulse rich musks. Originally conceived by Edmond Roudnitska, Femme was updated in 1989 by Olivier Cresp who introduced the cumin I find so attractive about the formula.

Parfum de Thérèse by Frédéric Malle

Another Roudnitska composition, released posthumously in 2000. Here we have a more reserved, elegant version femininity. Instead of Femme’s forward sensuousness, the unusual limpid melon and cucumber notes of this floral scent present an air of emotional distance. Ahead of its time, the scent wears as both unique and timeless.

Myths Woman by Amouage

One of my favourites of this house, Myths Woman is a chilly affair, evoking a sense of hardships endured and dried tears. Pitiless and world-weary, Myths Woman suffers no fools. There is a tactile dampness to its green and floral notes that do not suggest dewy blooms, but rather, moisture on stones. Although it was released in 2016 and has a modern sheerness to it, it also possesses a vintage, complex, almost chypre-esque character. A unique, challenging and dangerously beautiful scent by nose, Nathalie Lorson. [edit: I blanked out and assumed the nose for this was Christopher Chong when of course, he was the Artistic Director of the house.]

Le Sillage Blanc by Dusita

Between Dusita’s Blanc and Piguet’s Bandit why did I settle on Blanc? Although I love Bandit, there’s something very offputting about its drydown, an unsubtle, unctuous tuberose paired with a butch leather that steers the fragrance away from savage beauty toward outright disgust. Bandit was composed by a woman, Germaine Cellier, but it recalls to mind the patriarchal idea of a woman’s leaky, hysterical body as monstrous or grotesque or, from a woman's point of view, her need to be on the offense to protect herself against male violence. Blanc on the other hand, takes the opening of Bandit with its bitter galbanum bite and smoke and supports it with florals, resins and a touch of leather. There’s something marvelously self-contained and chic about Blanc. We women live with our powerful bodies everyday. We wake up in them and go about our business, subjects of our own narratives. With Blanc, Pissara Umavijani reappropriates a classic leather chypre in a way that is to me, the ultimate in chic femininity.

Fracas by Piguet

Fracas is the other legendary scent by Germaine Cellier. Originally released in 1948, I’ve only smelled a much later reformulation that I’m sure isn’t quite as bold as the original. Nevertheless, it remains the tuberose by which all other tuberose perfumes are measured against. Like Bandit, Fracas has a reputation for being heady, narcotic, fleshy, even intimidating. But unlike Bandit, I find there is also a kindness to it.

Salome by Papillon Perfumery

I made sure to include female noses on this list because the first three two perfumes, composed by a man, present a gender normative vision of femininity with none of the requisite high femme queering irony. While Salome isn’t an ironic take, it does in its own way, slay. With the greater inclusion of women in the fragrance industry, women are creating scents that defy the desire to be an innocent lollipop Lolita or an Amazon sexpot. It’s like having the world wake up to the fact that women may not be all that interested in being a Victoria’s Secret Angel. Like Japanese Lolitas taking feminine cuteness to its logical overkill extreme, Liz Moore of Papillon outdoes all the 80s orientalist visions of the femme fatale seductress with Salome, a fragrance that has become legendary for its filth, its animalistic aggression only equaled by its beauty. Salome daringly out-cumins Femme, its lusty musks perfectly balanced with stunning rose and jasmine. One of my first full bottle purchases!

[odoroussavourssweet]

Erawan by Dusita

Notes: herbal notes, petitgrain, lily of the valley, hay, clary sage, liatris, cedar, oakmoss, vanilla.

I love this. The hay is the strongest note; it’s meant to remind you of elephants in Thailand, and it is really a green, jungly, foresty smell.  It actually smells very like green tea to me, despite tea not being in the notes -- a nice, even, middle-of-the-palette, chlorophyll-dense green tea leaf.  There’s some musty, smoky, hazy dark notes underneath, making it smell almost a little “dirty”, but the greenness stays.

And stays, and stays, and stays. The longevity is great.

If not for the insane price, I might actually get a bottle of this.

[pocketvenuslux]

Unusual rose perfumes for Valentine’s Day

Every time Valentine’s Day rolls around it’s roses roses roses in perfumery. There’s nothing wrong with the dozen-long-stem-roses fragrances like Jo Malone’s Red Roses or Diptyque’s LE releases. But for those with more adventurous tastes, I’ve compiled some rose perfumes that are a little less pretty and a little more goth.

Eau de Protection (Rossy de Palma) by Etat Libre d’Orange is not an attractive rose. In fact, its spicy-sour opening is overbearing to the point of being ugly. Dries down to a dark, syrupy rose mingling with earthy patchouli. I love how it unfurls in its own time, daring you to approach. Retails for €90/50ml and  €135/100ml.

La Fille de Berlin by Serge Lutens is a rich and sombre rose. Its rose is lifted with spicy black pepper and a hint of candied violets and filled out with the warmth of animalistic musk. It’s not at all difficult to wear and carries the musk discretely. Retails for €120/50ml and €180/100ml.

Thirty Three by Ex Idolo is not your typical rose-oud which introduces a high-pitched "Damascus steel” note set against velvety rose petals and the dark depth of oud. The opening has a jarring, clanging quality, but it is worth waiting it out for the dry down which maintains a little of its initial metallic edge like a threat. Retails for £90/30ml and £120/50ml.

Oudh Infini by Dusita is my favourite rose-oud, but it is not an easy wear. The oud here is creamy, pungent, and animalistic. It goes beyond barnyard straight to the zoo. This note is brilliantly offset by an equally powerful Rose de Mai. Walks a razor thin line between beauty and disgust straight through to the dry down. Exhilarating! Retails for €395/50ml.

Finally, to close on an unexpected note, Mohur by Neela Vermeire is neither pretty nor goth, but a beautiful rose scent with the barest dusting of spice and a soft base that I can only describe as the milk of human kindness. Retails for  €205/60 ml.

[eshraagcom]

Dusita Paris Erwan وIssara وMoonlight في شيانغماي

وفقا لبيسارا أومافيجاني من دوسيتا باريس، فإن رائحة المريمية المعقدة تثير الهدوء والسعادة. تم العثور على Clary Sage في كلا العطرين Erwan و Issara. بفضل كرم دوسيتا باريس لدينا 15 مل × 3 مجموعة السفر التي تتضمن إيسارا وإروان وضوء القمر في شيانغماي لمستخدم واحد مسجل من الولايات المتحدة والمملكة المتحدة والاتحاد الأوروبي وكندا. الفائز العشوائي هو Sonbahia. يرجى إرسال بريد إلكتروني إلى michelyn على…

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[wicks-words]

not to romanticize life but the bottle of perfume I've had for the last 3 years ran out exactly as I entered this new chapter of my life. so, new perfume era! moonlight in chiangmai by dusita paris. I found this one at a perfumerie in portland, OR a couple years ago and got a sample of it back then, and I knew when I ran out of my last bottle (rima xi) that this would be my next full-bottle purchase. I love it a lot, I'm not usually a citrus person, but thats the importance of going to your local perfumerie if you are lucky enough to have one - you'll probably discover something you never would've found on your own. big changes happening lately. citrus scents in perfume isnt the only thing I thought i didnt like but am now obsessed with. weird how things play out.