Everest Base Camp - Day 8
Few updates I missed out on previous days:
Every day on the trek, we ask Phuri if we are maintaining decent pace. Neither do we want to reach early or too late when it is nightfall. But every time we have asked Phuri, his standard response has been “We go slowly slowly, good”. Slowly pronounced ‘salowly’.
While we saw lot of trees till we reached Tengboche, we didn’t see any trees on the way to Dingboche. Looks like trees don’t grow at this altitude. There are few bushes and grass which is turning yellow.
Day 8 - Dingboche to Labuche:
We wake up early at 5 am and are on the road by 7. The light breakfast feels good and I am very energetic. I had popped few pain killers the previous night to manage my back and ankle. Looks like the meds have done their job. After a initial steep climb out of Dingboche, we hit a plateau for couple of hours. For some reason, Manu is slow in the plateau too. Could be the altitude. We get some amazing photographs of Amadablam and other surrounding mountains. Though the sun is out, it is very cold due to strong winds.
After the plateau, we come across a long steep climb. Funnily, I am able to manage the climb very easily. I don’t intend to take any credit here. It is either because the meds have made me feel better, or my body has adapted well to the higher altitude. Once we reach on top, there is a memorial for the numerous people who have lost their lives in various climbs. One memorial is of the world renowned Scott Fischer. The memorials here is a grim reminder of the dangers which exist in this region.
The vegetation here is extremely scarce and the few shrubs we saw the previous day are absent here. It is largely dying grass. The path gets extremely rocky. My right ankle hate it. If the slope is from right to left, there is severe pain. Otherwise, I am largely ok. We cross a rickety bridge which might fall apart any day. We reach Labuche by 2 pm. Manu is extremely tired and irritated. He has a mild headache due to the altitude. A good meal puts him in a better mood.
Labuche is at an elevation of 4950m (16240 feet). My head feels weird for a short while. Phuri recommends we go for a short trek to acclimatize better. We wrap ourselves in fleece, downs jacket and gloves before heading out to a steep hill close to the tea house. Just as we start, Manu complains of pain in his chest and breathing difficulty. Phuri suggests he go back and drink lots of water and take rest. Phuri and me proceed to climb the hill. I still have good energy levels and start the climb with vigor. I am gasping for breath in less than a minute. The altitude makes it very difficult to execute normal activities. Once we reach the top, the view is very rewarding. We get to see the beginning of the Kumbhu glacier. It resembles a quarry with large pools of water. There is not a single blade of grass here. Far away, we can see the Everest Base Camp. The decent is very tricky due to the acute angle. I safely make it back to the tea house. The temperature here at 6.30 pm is minus 3 degrees. Dont think I am getting anywhere close to the wash basin tomorrow morning.
Tomorrow is the D day. We head to Gorak Shep, rest for an hour and head to Everest Base Camp. The temperature at Gorak Shep is around minus 5 degrees tomorrow. Not sure how the body will cope up at close to 17.000 feet altitude. But I am not thinking too much about this. I am quietly confident that the hard miles I have put in for this trek will pay off tomorrow. All the physiotherapy, strengthening exercises for my back, staying away from alcohol for four months, the running and weight training should take me to EBC tomorrow afternoon. Fingers crossed.
