#enamel dial

[watchilove]

Seiko Presage enamel dial

Seiko Presage enamel dial

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[watchilove]

Czapek & Cie Quai de Bergues is one of the nicest and complex collections in the independent scene. There are not too many independent brands out there that bring, year after year, new and interesting interpretation in the same collection. One can say that Czapek competes with established brands by the number of variations. Recently, I have published the press release of the “This Is Not a Blue Watch” – Czapek Sapphire Blue. It reminded me of other enamel pieces I have seen earlier this year, including the prototype of the Sapphire Blue. I have decided to refresh, mine and yours, the visual memory with some of the enamel pieces of the Czapek & Cie Quai de Bergues Collection. Note that the watches are prototypes and not all the details conform with the final version.

Czapek Quai des Bergues black enamel

Czapek & Cie Quai de Bergues enamel

Quai de Bergues collection is not a stranger to enamel, rather, quite well acquainted. If we also take into consideration the Special Editions, the collection is heavy weighted into the enamel direction. The piece presented today were seen during Baselworld 2019.  While the pieces are spectacular in the metal, the pictures do them no justice. Especially since my lack of photographic expertise cannot handle difficult lights and hard to photograph pieces (the black dial: as beautiful is in real life, as hard is for me to correctly shot it).

Black, white and blue

The black dials and white are a classical and conservative choice for enamel dials. But the light blue is something new, especially in the men’s category.

The “Grand Feu” enamel dials are difficult to produce, offering high quality and durability but leave no room for defects. The Czapek dials are perfectly executed by their Le Locle situated partner, Donze Cadrans.

For those familiar with the brand, the secret signature visible on the dial is the most obvious witness of Czapek quality. Moreover, a secret signature can be also produced by request (with length up to 33 characters)

But as magic as the secret signature is, the bue enamel dial realised on the Ricochet guilloché pattern is by far the most spectacular piece. In the collection are several guilloché pieces with various (and ingenious) colours. Having such a light blue dial is daring and bold. But Czapek accepts challenges easily, making you think that producing this dials is a simple task.

The beauty of the Quai de Bergues dials stays not only on its base. The way the dials are adorned is another distinctive and strong point of Czapek.

The small seconds with its unusual position at 7 o’clock balances the power reserve sub-dial. In the pieces presented here, the double hand doubles the indication of the power reserve with the weekday.

The independent brand offers the possibility to chose the design of the power reserve: the dual function (double hand – power reserve and weekdays displayed in any desired language) or just a simple reserve indication with a stylised arrow.

Now a classic for Czapek, the ‘Fleur-de-lys’ hands govern the top of the dial. The elegant shape is an original design from the Czapek pocket watch made in 1850.

The dial is nicely balanced. The combination ‘Fleur-de-lys’ hands with slender Roman numeral and subtle minutes’ register is of exquisite elegance. The hands’ shadow on the dial brings depth.

Reminding about bespoke, Czapek offers the possibility to have the hands in precious personalisation: rose gold, black rhodium or blue plating. During the last years, I have seen several pieces with various combinations. Sincerely, I cannot decide which one I like more since all have their charm.

Beautiful on the outside, gorgeous on the inside

The Quai de Bergues watches are powered by the in-house calibre SXH1. This movement was developed together with Jean-François Mojon and its Chronode (responsible for other great collaboration with brands like MB&F and many other important names). The SXH1 is aesthetically and functionally the modern implementation of the Czapek’s 1850 original movement.

The two barrels design offer seven days of autonomy, helped by a 3Hz beating heart. Lavish decoration adorn this movement in a way that you feel compulsory to take your watch from the wrist just to immerse into the movement’s details.

The movement architecture reflects the dial side. It gives the impression of an almost mirrored design. And vice-versa. The finishes consist of double open ratchets, sandblasted bridges, blue screws, bevelling, final anglage.

Some final notes and the gallery

Czapek & Cie Quai de Bergues is a beautiful, mature collection. On the casing side, the independent brand offers two case variants (both visible in the pictures above and in the galley) and five materials to choose from.  On the dial side, Czapek offers several materials and colours with endless possibilities. With only the “imagination is the limit” and, of course, some technological constraints, Czapek can offer everything you desire. They even dare their customers to come with new ideas, to push the technology further and to create new fantastic designs.

On the personal side, I am a fan of this collection and the brand (since the very beginning). I admire how every encounter with Xavier de Roquemaurel, CEO of Czapek & Cie ends up with prototypes showcasing and discussion over new models. I cannot decide over a model or variation since every time I decide on a favourite, new colours/variation come into the game. For the moment I find the blue enamel the most appealing. But I am prepared in my heart to be amazed again. Maybe sooner than expected. Stay tuned, here on Watch I Love Magazine you will always find about Czapek novelties.

For a more detailed description of the Quai de Bergues, you can have a look at the Czapek Midnight in Geneva – a celebration of past, present and future review.

Czapek Quai des Bergues black enamel

Czapek Quai des Bergues Sapphire Blue

Czapek & Cie Quai de Bergues dressed in enamel Czapek & Cie Quai de Bergues is one of the nicest and complex collections in the independent scene.

[watchilove]

Since 2016, the Presage collection has been renowned for showcasing many forms of Japanese aesthetics and craftsmanship in its creations. Today, the collection introduces two new watches that, for the first time in its history, carry Spring Drive movements: Seiko SNR037 and Seiko SNR039. Spring Drive dramatizes a uniquely Japanese aesthetic and sensibility through the quiet and smooth glide motion of the seconds’ hand and its innovative mechanism speaks of Seiko’s mastery of high technology and craftsmanship.

The dial is made of enamel and has a simple yet modern design reflecting the philosophy of a pioneer of modern Japanese design, Riki Watanabe, with whom Seiko had collaborated in several projects in the past. Watanabe passed away in 2013 and so, in creating Seiko SNR037 and Seiko SNR039, Seiko worked with a long-time colleague and friend of Watanabe’s to whom he had entrusted the design direction of his work. The highest level of Japanese aesthetic and craftsmanship is reflected in the movement, materials and design, and with it, a brand new form of Japanese artistry is born in Presage.

Seiko SNR037

Japanese artistry and craftsmanship in the porcelain enamel found on Seiko SNR037 and Seiko SNR039

The dials of the Seiko SNR037 and Seiko SNR039 are made by master craftsman Mitsuru Yokosawa and his colleagues to ensure that each dial is just the right shape and form for the watch dial. They come in two colors; white and black, with each requiring a specific glaze application process that can only be achieved by the skill and sense of a master craftsman. Thanks to this special enamel, the dials have a unique sheen and warm, deep and organic beauty.

Seiko SNR037

A design of Japanese modernity

The Presage team worked closely with Riki Watanabe’s erstwhile colleague to create a dial that brings the design philosophy of Watanabe’s to life. This philosophy has at its heart the pursuit of timeless values that provide long-lasting satisfaction and attention to detail that is clear in every aspect of the watches. It is free from excess decoration on both dial and case and allows for a light, modern style that can be enjoyed for a lifetime. The Didoni font, which was greatly favored by Riki Watanabe himself, the dual-curved sapphire case with super-clear coating and the vivid contrast of color between the dial and the hands and numerals all enhance the watches’ legibility while capturing a perfect balance between beauty and clarity.

Presage and Spring Drive – the heritage of Seiko’s watchmaking technology

Both of the two new watches, Seiko SNR037 and Seiko SNR039, incorporate Calibre 5R65 which has an accuracy rate of ±1 second per day and a power reserve of 72 hours. The movement can be seen through the exhibition case back. Both versions come with a power reserve indicator at the eight o’clock position and date display at three o’clock. The case is in stainless steel to which a super hard coating is applied to ensure its lasting pristine beauty. The watches are available from October 2019 in selected Seiko boutiques and selected retail stores around the world.

Seiko SNR03X back

Riki Watanabe

As a pioneer of modern Japanese design, Riki Watanabe made great contributions to design recognition in both social and educational fields throughout Japan, such as the establishment of the Japan Industrial  Designers’ Association. He received many awards including the Milan Triennale Exhibition Gold Award, the Mainichi Design Award, and the Japanese Medal of Honor with purple ribbon awarded by the Government of Japan.

Riki Watanabe

Seiko Presage Prestige Line Enamel Dial Spring Drive

　Spring Drive Calibre 5R65 (SNR037, SNR039)

　Driving System: Automatic

　Power reserve: 72 hours

　Accuracy: ±1 second per day (±15 seconds per month)

　Number of jewels: 30

Specifications

　Stainless steel case with super-hard coating

　Enamel Dial

　Dual-curved sapphire crystal with super-clear coating

　See-through screw case back

　Diameter: 40.0mm, Thickness: 13.1mm

　Water resistance: 10 bar

　Magnetic resistance: 4,800 A/m

　Cordovan strap with three-fold clasp with push-button release

Approximate recommended retail price in Europe: €4,650

Seiko SNR037 and Seiko SNR 039

Seiko SNR037

Seiko SNR039

Seiko SNR037

Seiko SNR03X back

Spring Drive Calibre 5R65

Seiko SNR037

Two Spring Drive watches reveal a new side of Presage: Seiko SNR037 and Seiko SNR039 Since 2016, the Presage collection has been renowned for showcasing many forms of Japanese aesthetics and craftsmanship in its creations.

[zeitwinkel]

The Zeitwinkel “émail grand feu”

39mm steel case, Zeitwinkel in-house caliber ZW0102

“Grand Feu” enamel dial with enamel blue numeration, blued hands

[zeitwinkel]

What a gorgeous picture of the brand new Zeitwinkel 082° émail grand feu by #Koyanagi Watchshop on Facebook

#zeitwinkel #enameldial #Baselworld2016 #novelty

[quillandpad]

Heartbeat: Urban Jürgensen Montre Observatoire Enamel

Introduced at Baselworld 2013, the stunning Urban Jürgensen ‘Montre Observatoire Enamel’ features the in-house UJS P8 caliber with pivoted detent escapement and an oven-fired enamel dial that will keep its pristine look for many generations. Creating the dial requires no less than 15 separate layers of enamel, each individually oven-fired, on a gold base dial.

Heartbeat: Urban Jürgensen Montre Observatoire Enamel was originally published on Quill & Pad