#felledseam

[knitwitdragon]

Handfelled seams are the prettiest <><

[viapiana]

6 threads, 3 needles and 3 loopers! This machine takes a while to thread, but it’s worth it as it stitched beautifully. This model is called a 35800P. It’s a type of “feed off the arm” machine for closing tubular portions of cloth made items. In Toronto, there was never a lot of denim production, but there is some air filter manufacturers. And they use this machine as it makes an air tight seam. Swipe through the first few pics to see a few videos of me using the machine. The last video has a slower section showing the folder and how it curls the left ply up and the right ply down. Creating a flat felled seam without this machine takes a few operations and isn’t as strong. This machine makes 3 rows of chain stitching for a durable elastic stitch that stretches with wear and holds on strong. Some will argue that it’s possible to fell with a lock stitch machine, and yes, it’s possible, but it’s not superior for denim production as the seam will not stretch with lock stitches. I have seen felled shoulder seams on shirts with lock stitching, but they did that on purpose to keep the shoulders from stretching out of shape. Every machine was made for a reason, and this one is mandatory for denim!! There are 3 main generations of the union special 35800. The first having the loopers rock from left to right and the body looks almost identical to this. This is the first gen 2.0 which has the loopers rock from right to left. (They were easier to time the machine this way). The second generation has a completely new style of loopers and they throw, again, from left to right but now have separate looper holders for each looper. This makes switching between gauges and timing the machine a cinche. The third generation (which is kind of still in production with Juki’s help) is a new and improved style with better oil circulation and easier to manufacture parts. The loopers and parts that are most often swapped are the same for the 2nd and 3rd gen machines. Naturally, I have one of each! Whoever reads to the bottom deserves a medal... just saying. 🏅 🎖 🥇 ... .. . #unionspecial #industrialsewing #lapseam #felledseam #feedoffthearm #chainstitch #viapiana (at Viapiana) https://www.instagram.com/p/CFdfPyGHm4n/?igshid=1ukut0t1v3hv6