Gota patti or gota work is a type of embroidery originating from Rajasthan, India. Small pieces of zari ribbon are applied onto the fabric with the edges sewn down to create elaborate patterns. The dresses with gota work are used for special occasions or religious occasions. Gota is crafted using an appliqué technique with a strip of gold or silver or various other coloured ribbons of different widths woven in a satin or twill weave. It involves placing woven gold cloth onto fabrics such as georgette or bandhini to create different surface textures. Originally real gold and silver metals were used to embroider, but these were eventually replaced cheaper and more durable options.
The process is rigorous and time-consuming. The first step is to trace the design on the fabric. This is done by placing a tracing paper with the design on it on the fabric and spreading a paste of chalk powder over it. Depending on the design, the gota is cut and folded into various shapes. It is then appliquéd by hemming or back-stitching it on the fabric. The motifs are usually inspired by nature and may consist of flowers, leaves and birds or animals such as peacocks, parrots and elephants. Gota creates a rich and heavy look but is light to wear. It is generally done on dupattas, turban edges and ghagras. Garments with gota work are worn at weddings or special occasions.
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