#hermann buhl

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Hermann Buhl vers 5800m - Nanga Parbat - 3 juillet 1953

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“Mountains have a way of dealing with overconfidence.” - Hermann Buhl

Revett Lake Trail, Coeur d'Alene Mountains, Idaho Panhandle National Forest

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Hermann Buhl climbing Chogolisa - June 26, 1957 - Karakoram (Pakistan)

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June 27, 1957 BUHL Hermann Buhl was an Austrian mountaineer and is considered one of the best climbers of all time. He was particularly innovative in applying Alpine style to Himalayan climbing. His accomplishments include first ascent of Nanga Parbat (solo and without bottled oxygen) in 1953. On the way back from the summit he spent the night untethered on the edge of a 60-degree ice slope standing on a tiny pedestal too small to squat upon. Before his successful Nanga Parbat expedition 31 people had died trying to make the first ascent. His accomplishments also include first ascent of Broad Peak in 1957. Buhl is the only mountaineer to have made the first ascent of an eight-thousander solo. Just a few weeks after the successful first ascent of Broad Peak (with Fritz Wintersteller and Marcus Schmuck) Buhl and Kurt Diemberger made an attempt on nearby unclimbed Chogolisa (7665 m) in Alpine style. Buhl lost his way in an unexpected snow storm and walked over a huge cornice on the south-east ridge near the summit of Chogolisa II (7654 m - also known as Bride Peak) subsequently triggering an avalanche that hurled him down 900 m over Chogolisa's north face. His body couldn't be recovered and remains in the ice.

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Hermann Buhl

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Article: Historical Badass: Climber Hermann Buhl

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EZEN A NAPON ...

60 éve, 1953. július 3-án érte el Hermann Buhl a Nanga Parbat (8125 m) csúcsát. Egyedül volt már csak a végső rohamban, hosszú időbe is tellett. A jégcsákányát a csúcson hagyta (igazolásul), a hágóvasát elvesztette, mindössze a síbotjaira támaszkodva tudta a csúcstömb meredek oldalában egyik lábáról a másikra állva azt a kemény éjszakát kint tölteni 8000 méter felett. Az Everest első megmászásáról szóló tudósítást az alaptáborban hallgatták rádión, melyet Erzsébet királynő megkoronázásakor közöltek Londonban. Az Everest 60. jubileumával ellentétben halványabb a megemlékezés erről. (Írta: Kunos Gábor, kép: az 1953-as expedíció útvonala.)