Do you measure up? Did your great grandmother measure up?
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Do you measure up? Did your great grandmother measure up?
Nana for «Cosmopolitan» Korea
The Fluctuating Figure: McCall’s in 1908
I have dubbed the early-20th-Century look which you see above as the swayback look. There is a bosominess to it which may be mere puffiness of fabric in the cut of blouse or even tiers of ruffles pinned beneath the blouse to help, then an absurdly tiny waist, and a definite flare over the back hips. The hips are often portrayed as smaller than the bust which seems unlikely in real life. You see this same exact figure on page after page of the women’s patterns, so it seems this was the ideal. This goes over a guimpe, a kind of sheer blouse that often had a high neck as well.
I taught the last class of my course on modern fashion and several of my students commented that although fashion dictates have in some ways disappeared since the 1960s (I did point out, however, they were all wearing leggings and tops that were very similar in cut and color, so clearly there is a dress code), dictates about body shape are just as stringent as they ever were in time and very thin at the moment. Ideal female body types have varied wildly over the last century and there is a great graph in my book which shows this.
Wide Hips Welcome, The 18th Century Pannier
This fitted women’s jacket with wide hips is from the collection of the DeWitt Wallace Decorative Arts Museum in Colonial Williamsburg. The fabric is a cotton chintz lined in linen, and while the fabric dates from around 1750, the curators who have taken a look inside say it was probably remade in 1780 to fit the current fashion. As you can see, the the fashion was wide hips which were created with help from panniers, literally “baskets” in French.
Io illustrate, I took a picture of the panniers shown in the mantua maker shop at CW from in front and from beneath. As you can see, the fabric is stretched over a wired frame and the whole ties at the waist under the clothing. The results: really wide hips. Some got so wide, women needed to turn sideways to get through door ways. Of course, the result was that waists looked smaller in comparison, and notice the jacket is indeed darted to fit closely at the waist before it spreads out for this hips.
For more on the museum, which has many treasures, go here: https://www.colonialwilliamsburg.com/art-museums/wallace-museum
The Youthful Figure in 1908
McCall’s Magazine from January 1908, The Holiday issue, offers all kinds of patterns for the cold weather, including this one which is clearly for the teenager, see the sizes as offered in years at the lower left at “15, 16, and 17 years.” At that age, a girl was old enough to wear the long skirts that were the fashion for grown women, but young enough to opt for a flurry of ruffles, some five on the skirt and two on the bodice.
What intrigues me is the bodice of the dress. What was their ideal body type? They have given this child a tiny waist and simply enormous shoulders. Partly it’s the square-cut neckline which creates width with its double ruffles plus the full puffed sleeve head, but why cut it that way? I can only guess that point was to make the waist look even smaller, creating an hour-glass for a figure was not likely to yet reached the curves of womanhood. You can see that they show a very plain version in the smaller photos, but clearly the selling point here was an elaborate and wide bodice. But then every age has its ideals of feminine beauty and ours are, I daresay, no less odd than theirs.
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Research Says Women with Such Body are Considered as Ideal
Research Says Women with Such Body are Considered as Ideal
Regarding the ideal female body, society advertizes offer bosoms, wide hips, and a limited abdomen. This is the look that is viewed as “ha0t” today and the one that numerous lady make progress toward. In this article, you will discover what the perfect body of a lady looks like as indicated by researchers. Specialists at the University of Texas say the ideal female body measures 1.68 meters in…
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