Joe Beef chef David McMillan is quitting the biz, citing burnout and anger.
The restaurant business is gruelling. In an interview with the Gazette’s Bill Brownstein (who’s still working? Guy must be 103 years old now?) he cited increasing anger, the toll of trying to run five restaurants (meeting payroll for over a hundred staff), anger, the pandemic, and just seeing endless costs and work.
“I never want to shave truffle over asparagus for tourists from Toronto ever again,” he said, which kinda sums it up.
Burnout for even moderately successful chefs is frequent, as is addiction and suicide. I totally get him not wanting to pretend to be happy for hipsters who just want to say they ate at Joe Beef to tick off a coolhunting check box, or build a restaurant empire that would slowly become mediocre and decay.
Having come up in old-school French cuisine at places like Le Caveau (long since gone) and Les Caprices de Nicolas, his standards are very high, but he also came up in a time where the business was punishing and workplaces abusive. No doubt that sticks with him.
He’s an artist who is leaving the field on his own terms, and it’s probably a very healthy decision for himself and his family.
He’s sold his interest in the restaurants to his business partners Fred Morin and Allison Cunningham, so they will continue on. No doubt he will continue to be an influence to the generation of restaurateurs that came after.