Ezulwini: An African Safari Dream
The Safari Index team’s stay at Ezulwini’s two Kruger lodges provided the African safari experience of a lifetime
The heat blazes and the stillness is absolute. A slight breeze blows. The leaves dance on the multitude of trees standing sentry over the wide, rocky river. The silence is only broken by the occasional bird call. It is midday in the African bush.
Ezulwini River Lodge and Ezulwini Billy’s Lodge are almost hidden within the thick, thorny tangle of trees and long, dry grasses that spread across the Lowveld landscape of South Africa’s Greater Kruger National Park. Renowned worldwide, the Kruger is synonymous with the African wilderness. Here, lions roam freely, stealthily stalking hosts of impala, buck and even giraffe. Rare and elusive, the lithe leopard is seen silkily slipping through the grasses before disappearing. Herds of enormous, towering elephants glide gracefully across the roads. Rhinos graze lazily on the ample vegetation, just metres away from the Ezulwini safari vehicle. The expert field guides know the terrain inside out, and navigate along the maze-like network of roads seemingly unthinkingly. This is an African safari experience to write home about.
Sunset on the Ezulwini River Lodge sundowner game drive
Guests at Ezulwini are treated to a world-class, five-star safari experience, without losing out on the wild, untamed atmosphere of the African bush. Both Ezulwini River Lodge and Ezulwini Billy’s Lodge are unfenced and open to the reserve. It is a thrilling experience to fall asleep in the comfort of your fully-furnished rondavel (traditional hut) or luxury suite, knowing that outside, wild animals roam. It is an even greater delight to sit under the stars around a roaring fire, while being treated to a traditional song-and-dance performance, before enjoying a sumptuous three-course meal in the warm company of the lodge’s other guests. A guest capacity of 20 at River Lodge and 14 at Billy’s Lodge ensures that the lodges are never overcrowded, making for a wonderfully intimate atmosphere.
The rondavel (hut) rooms at Ezulwini River Lodge
The staff at Ezulwini are exceptional. Consistent with the familial mood at the lodge, they make an effort to learn their guests’ names, engaging in friendly conversation on game drives and at mealtimes. In turn, we were introduced to each member of staff, from the chefs and wildlife trackers to the housekeepers and receptionists. Every special need and whim was catered for, from dietary requirements to extra bedding. Josh, the main guide at Ezulwini, has an excellent knowledge of the region, and his informational dialogues about the wildlife and plant species are punctuated with charming anecdotes and witty jokes. The guides and trackers make every effort to ensure that guests get the full wildlife experience, and ensured that we spotted all of the Big 5 on our two-day stay- an incredible exploit. Josh also has a penchant for speed; it will be a long time before we forget the thrill of racing down the park roads, the wind whipping through the open safari vehicle!
A typical day at Ezulwini begins with the early-morning game drive. The 5.30am wake-up time might not seem appealing, but the fresh morning air combined with a classic African sunrise will soon make you forget your sleepiness. The earliness of the hour also gives you a better chance of seeing more animals. We saw rhino, buffalo and elephant on our morning game drives- three of the Big 5! The morning game drive lasts for approximately three hours, with a stop in an open area in the middle of the bush for tea and coffee, provided by the lodge. Breakfast in the bush is certainly a unique experience that will stay with you for a long time! After the game drive, guests are returned to the lodge for a leisurely sit-down breakfast with the other guests.
Rhino graze metres away from the Ezulwini safari vehicle
The afternoon game drive only begins at 3.30pm. Guests can relax until lunch at the poolside, take in the incredible surroundings from the elevated viewing deck, or unwind in the comfort of the rooms, suites or main lounge and bar area. The lodge is designed in a modern, contemporary style, with uniquely African touches. The standard rooms are fashioned in the style of traditional round African rondavels (huts), with en-suite facilities and all the comforts of modern living. The huts are connected to the main area by shady walkways. There are also private luxury suites, which are situated a little further away from the main area. The ultimate in luxury, the suites have private viewing decks, plunge pools for a refreshing dip after game drives, a lounge area, and open-air showers that provide a uniquely thrilling experience.
The main pool at Ezulwini River Lodge
Ezulwini’s luxury suite with private plunge pool
After lunch, it is time for the afternoon game drive, also known as the sundowner game drive. Guests are again taken for an exhilarating ride through the bush, playing hide-and-seek with the wild animal species of Africa. We were incredibly lucky to be brought right up close to a male lion, which was lazily snoozing in the shade of a tree. Holding our breaths and keeping completely silent, we were humbled and awe-inspired to be within metres of this mighty creature. After spending a while taking photographs, our guide and tracker inexplicably began to manoeuvre the vehicle off the road and right into the heart of the bush. After several hair-raising encounters with trees and tall shrubs, we were amazed to see the lion’s pride of lionesses and cubs sprawled beneath the shade of some large trees. Four of the Big 5!
Male lion seen on Ezulwini afternoon game drive
The lioness and her cubs
The final member of the Big 5 is the leopard, one of the most elusive and rarely-seen species on an African safari. Leopards are shy, secretive creatures that prefer to wander solo, instead of in groups like lions and elephants. And so when Josh, Ezulwini’s intrepid guide and jeep-driver extraordinaire, received the radio call that the lodge’s other safari vehicle had spotted a female leopard way over on the other side of the reserve, he put his foot down on the accelerator. We were treated to a roller-coaster jaunt across the reserve. As we slowly pulled up near to the other safari vehicle, we were instructed to be as silent as possible. We strained our eyes, peering through the thickets and branches, until we finally saw her. Long and sleek, the leopard slowly slithered from tree to bush, warily observing her visitors. We held our breaths, hardly daring to move for fear of scaring her off, the silence broken only by the whisper of the wind rustling through the leaves and branches. It was unforgettable. We had seen five out of five, in the space of just 48 hours, and plenty more besides. The bucket list is now one item shorter!
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