Blogging about Israel and the Arab world since, oh, forever.
...To demonstrate just what is going on here, I reproduce below my August 2018 essay on the seriousness of Israeli appropriation of Palestinian food. It is hard to believe that the owners and staff at Zahav are not aware of this less-than-honest dimension of their business. The rest of us—those of the James Beard Foundation in particular—should as well be aware of what is happening if only to avoid complicity in a nasty bit of theft. Food Appropriation as a Form of Cultural Genocide—An Analysis (6 August 2018) by Lawrence Davidson
Zahav does not claim that there is no Levantine influence - it revels in it, as its webpage says:
Zahav offers a small plates menu that encourages guests to sample the large variety of cultural influences on the cuisine of Israel - from Eastern Europe to North Africa and from Persia to the Eastern Mediterranean.
It isn't that Israeli restaurateurs are trying to steal anyone else's cuisine - it is that people who hate Israel are claiming that there is no such thing as Israeli cuisine, which is a fusion and update of the others. Those critics are the liars, not the Israelis.
If a Palestinian Arab wants to open a five star restaurant and call the food Palestinian cuisine (which never existed as a separate cuisine) and get an award from James Beard and they call it "Palestinian cuisine," no one would give a damn. The Lebanese and Syrians and Egyptians who actually created the cuisine won't care.













