Buena Vista Guys to Open Wine Joint in Little Haiti
Cory Finot and Claude Postel, the guys from Buena Vista Deli, have confirmed they are opening new wine bar in Little Haiti, unnamed as-of-yet. The outdoor bar will accommodate a buy-your-own bottle, self-service atmosphere with a limited counter-service snack menu. The cafe pays homage to an institution of Parisian drinking culture, the Guinguette, a type of outdoor tavern on the banks of the Seine, where young people gathered for cheap wine, light fare, and French kisses. The duo have always put community and authenticity to the forefront of their restaurants, so the new spot seems like a natural transition.
On our first visit in February the weather was dreary and pleasant and it felt like it hadn’t rained since Basel. Cory meets us at the entrance of an empty concrete lot save for a 400 sq ft blue structure with a kitchen and wine store. The structure will house a counter-service Parisian street fare and a large selection of wine and craft beer. You grab some grub, you grab some wine, and you enjoy the scene. Aside from the wry smile on Cory’s face there’s little indication of what else is to come.
By our second visit in May it’s very hot and humid and the 400 sq ft structure is painted lime green with what looks to be a spounge. Rows of benches fill out the emptiness of the vast concrete lot, and under the over hang of what was a carport is now a lounge with plush couches and chairs. The ceiling of the carport is host to a hand painted mural inspired by details from the Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Reims in Champagne. Although the cathedral is French, the mural is distinctly Haitian-American; it’s a Serge Toussaint commission. On this side of the bar it’s cool and the humidity is masked by the shade of the trees arching over from the churchyard, which according to Cory are 300 years old.
When Claude Postel, co-owner and a former Michelin chef, describes his plan for the menu, it sounds like he’s reading a passage from 50 Shades of Gray. Spit roasted whole chickens stacked in vertical rows in rotating slowly, very slowly, each perspiring from the breast and the seams of the thigh, downward toward the carcass below until a dense bird resin culminates on the bottom of the rotisserie, where a crowd of baking potatoes is eagerly waiting for the bird juice. Needless to say they are emotional about the rotisserie, as is to be expected when talking about food from your childhood. In fact the particular style of baked potato they speak of, pommes boulangère, comes from an earlier French provincial history when women who didn’t have ovens of their own, would prepare the potato dish and give it to the village baker to cook while they were in Sunday services. Claude remarks that “if there is no love, it cannot be successful”. It is this kind simplicity that is fundamental for great French cuisine.
The late gourmand Jim Harrison once remarked that the cooking at French truck stops was higher-quality than at the vast majority of restaurants in the United States. Enjoying simple, authentic, and high-quality French food, at a fair price-point…from a window, is not a widely available concept in Miami but it’s second nature for this crew. It is from this from this tradition that Cory and Claude will enter the franco-lingustic boundaries of Little Haiti.
[working title], opening Fall 2016 in Little Haiti