How To:
Shrimp Tanks:
Neo shrimp, crystal shrimp, cherry, ornamental, or decorative. Whatever you want to call them, here’s how to keep them.
From what I see of people around this hobby, these tanks are a very popular choice. And I can see why! They are one of few tanks that actually have the potential to be very compact (unlike misconceptions around beta and goldfish you can ACTUALLY think small with this one!) And that is why I have one myself in my small apartment living space.
If you are just looking to set up a tank or if you have one like this and just have questions, please read on! Arm yourself with knowledge!
Setting up shrimp colony tanks is great for any experience level. If you are brand new please look into tank cycling and you will be ready to go!
There is really only one added difficulty that this tank type presents is that it will, unless you want to add significant work on your part, need to be a planted tank. Shrimp are grazers and cannot be fed just once or twice a day. This is part of what makes them so much fun to watch as well. Adding a shrimp tank means getting to sit back and watch those cute little shrimp hands hard at work. They will be on the glass, on you decor, on your drift wood, and yes, on your plants. Shrimp eat plant slimes, algae, and other detritus (plant decay and waste).
You may have noticed most of these sources are plant related. This doesn't mean you wont supplement your shrimp with other foods, whether you want to go with sinking pellet foods or a more natural path with fresh veggies (spinach and zucchini are popular choices.) This does mean though, that you’ll have to consider just how much snacking these dudes do! In my experience just go planted. Really.
So where do we start? You know the drill. Pick you substrate, planter substrate like above or regular aquarium gravel if you are less ambitious about the plant side of things. A hang on back filter with a covered intake, or better yet a sponge filter to keep those baby shrimpums safe is a must! And lastly, of course, a heater for the tank size you’ve chose. With these basic pieces it is cycling time, and then after cycling you are ready for your plant lighting!
A sponge filter, for those not familiar. Easily hooks up to an air pump with aniline tubing.
Remember, you are going to need full spectrum for your plants to be able to photosynthesize. There are SO many lights on the market that do a wonderful job. Look at reviews and research the needs of plants you like, but all in all don’t get roped in to paying out your ass. You’d be surprised what a modestly priced light will grow. For small tanks, I definitely have to recommend my favorite.
This is the StingRAY clip on LED light. 9.5 inches. 4 watts. and it’s about $30!! An amazing price on amazon. But of course I always recommend trying out different things and testing around.
I always find it useful to add your light AFTER cycling your tank!!! Why? because before that you will only be aiding algae growth. Many people, and sometimes myself depending on cash availability, add plants during the cycling process. This is great and speeds up cycling!! Use your lights right away! But if not, just wait. Trust me.
Next, it is plant time. Some easier plants that your shrimp will love include marimo (moss balls), Anubias, and Java fern. All of these plants can be grown under very low quality full spectrum lights. You could use the light above for great results, or even try something simpler. These can even survive on ambient light from around the house, but keep in mind they wont show much growth this way.
I usually allow a week or two for plants to take root before adding the shrimp. Since these guys feed off of plant rot there is little time for plants to recover before damaged leaves and roots are eaten up, so a head start tends to be helpful. Mind you, shrimp will not harm healthy plants, but transfers can be hard even on plants.
Once the wait is up and your shrimp of choice has been added there are still just a few more things to consider while enjoying your tank. The fist is leaf litter. Adding things such as almond leaves, alder cones, and drift wood are wonderful for shrimp. All of these things not only provide extra grazing foods as they decay, but also host tasty bacteria in the decaying process that shrimp cant get enough of! While these things are not a must, I highly recommend some or all of these additions to your tank!
After that is decided lets talk about some important details, cleaners,tank mates, and supplements. For cleaners, any kind of snails will always provide a huge helping hand. Personally, I always turn to Ruby Red Ram’s Horn snails for small tanks. Add a few and they will multiply with the amount of food available in the tank. With all of this plant and shrimp waist as well as maybe your drift wood and leaf litter you may end up with a bunch or them. If you like to be more controlling with your tank, nirites are another favorite. And they will not reproduce in fresh water.
Above are some nirites on the left and ram’s horn to the right.
Tank mates can be a little tricky with shrimp. To most fish they look like little, tasty treats. But there are a few options. The first being micro fish. A newer kind of fish for the ever expanding hobby. My shrimp tank is also home to a scarlet badis. A beautiful, little micro fish with tons of personality! The other option also qualifies as a cleaner. An oto catfish is a kind of of bottom feeding fish that, for whatever reason, is unable or uninterested in in eating ornamental shrimp. A huge plus if you are looking for a larger focus for your tank.
While pictures are helpful, I think it is important to note that the scarlet badis (left) will only reach a size of about half an inch, while the oto cat can grow to be 2 to 3 inches (and will therefore need a larger tank size. About 10 gallons minimum.)
And finally, I saved the best for last! ADDITIVES!! Yay! So exciting! Plant additives are a subject all of their own, so I will leave that for another time. Shrimp and snails however have all kinds of additives on the market. At least for my conditioned tape water I find most of these to be snake oil, but a few may be helpful if you live in areas with especially hard water. The must have is CRUSHED CORAL. I cannot stress this enough. I have raised shrimp and snails for years now and starting out this aspect was a doozy. It all comes down to devolved calcium. Weather you are caring for shrimp, snails, crabs, or crayfish, if it has a shell it needs calcium to grow that shell. In my experience the best method is to add safe, natural, crushed coral to your tank whether it be to a hang on back filter, out of site, or just sprinkled in or around some decor. As this resource is depleted from the water column and absorbed by you shelled friends, the crushed coral will dissolve producing more! It is a tiny detail and something that only needs to be addressed about once a year, but trust me, if you are in this for the long haul it will save you so much confusions and trouble. Add some as soon as your shrimp are in to assure them a healthy shell and a happy life :)
