"Robe du Soir" de Raudnitz en velours de soie vert et broderies de paillettes et perles (1897) et "Costume de Garçon" d'Old England en velours de coton vert olive et dentelle d'Irlande (1910) à l'exposition "Boldini, Les Plaisirs et les Jours" au Petit Palais, Musée des Beaux-Arts de la Ville de Paris, avril 2022.
I rarely buy ties. I don’t wear one every day, and even when I do need one the same few tend to come out about half of the time (navy cashmere, green grenadine, charcoal herringbone wool). Anyway, variety is over-rated only less than novelty when it comes to accessories.
And yet, I did make an exception recently. This claret twill was more-or-less a blind buy, solely on the strength of RJ de Man’s extensive research notes of the brand on his blog @obeyfeline.
I think everyone finds other countries’ imagined versions of their own a little unconvincing, even when it’s flattering, but the Old England of Paris is certainly more attractive than England’s own old-times fantasy these days, which is all boiled vegetables and the Blitz, and precious little nostalgia for a sense of international purpose.
The lure of collecting is deeply irrational from the perspective of use-value. The collector doesn’t want the brand new piece even if it’s in better condition and performs better than any vintage piece could. He wants the story and the provenance, even if those things mean the scars of age and the creases of too much travel.
The book collector wants the first edition, even if the pages are foxed, and I wanted this tie as a token of an old Anglo-French bond (the tacit agreement Paris will imitate London’s menswear, at a remove, and London Paris’s fashions and, much less successfully, its pâtisserie).
There’s no Old England in Paris any more, and all too much in Fleet Street, but the tie lived up to expectations, at least. Reassuringly heavy silk twill, probably from Macclesfield. And, on closer inspection, the calling card of another old friend, happily in much better health: Drake’s.
#bespokewheeler meetup with @benoit_duchatelet who is wearing my former #oldengland flannel DB chalkstripe, a wonderful suit I feel quite nostalgic for. I am wearing a #basile single breasted peak lapel, a style I seldom wear.