01/11/2024: Clutching Straws
Put it off for long enough and for sure it’ll bite you in the ass harder. I’m referring more the weather than the mechanical issues. Yep! I’ve got this leaky clutch system to eradicate, luckily it’s actually been functioning fine since I bled it through and renewed the oil. But with that said, it’s not recommended to ignore issues as it could end up being the root cause of an accident which no one wants.
As always, I’m including the parts list with part numbers to give an idea what’s required (model dependent mind) I also have added a few extras in whilst I’m ordering, I’m inclined to get bits and bobs
Master Cylinder Assy: STC500100LR
Clutch Slave Cylinder - Lockheed: FTC5202G
Dust Cap (single): 594091
8 x 3/8 Pansupa S T screw: AB608031L
L.O.F POWERspring Pedal Assist Kit: PM431
Furthermore, I’ve tried to be as generic as possible to note each step briefly to enable a good idea of what you’ll likely to anticipate when carrying out this job.
1. Understand where all the key components are located.
(a) master cylinder/pedal box - engine bay
(b) slave cylinder - underneath near side of gearbox
2. Remove cap and loosen off the bleed nipple enough to create a drip.
3. Connect a bleed kit to slave bleed nipple and crack open nipple.
4. Bleed the system by pressing down on the clutch pedal, the pedal will eventually go light.
5. Tighten bleed nipple and remove bleed kit.
6. Now the system is mostly free from DOT 4 fluid, the system can now start being stripped.
7. I’ve got OEM air conditioning, so this step may not be applicable to you, but if like me you have AC, remove the lower A/C ‘dash’
8. Pull back the insulation and undo the first bolt retaining the clutch pedal spring, followed by the remaining x5 bolts.
9. Moving to the engine bay, install the reservoir cap back on just to ensure no residual spills.
10. With a rag to hand, undo the hydraulic line from the master cylinder.
11. The pedal box is now able to be removed, take care when manoeuvring.
12. The slave cylinder at first glance seems to be pretty straight forward. But access is somewhat obscure.
13. Firstly undo the hydraulic line to allow better access and then with patience, undo the x2 retaining screws holding the slave cylinder to the housing.
14. When removing the slave cylinder, take extra care as the plunger/piston can fall out inside the housing and it’ll be a box off job!
15. Remove the hard hydraulic line which connects to the slave whilst you’re down there (if you are planning to replace.
16. Now with everything on the bench, you can strip down the assembly and rebuild the pedal box with new components. I’ll let you figure out how as you’ll learn more.
Note: From the images, both Master and slave had failed, so I’d suggest swapping both out.
17. Now you’ve rebuilt, lubricated and admired your work. It’s time to install it all back in.
Note: FYI The LOF spring is a bitch to fit.
18. Working backwards, carry out steps 15 > 7
19. At this point, everything should be back to how it was before you started (minus the leaks).
20. Bleed time! It’s pretty straight forward if you’ve made it this far.
21. Fill the reservoir with fresh DOT 4 and fit the bleed kit to the slave cylinder,
22. Crack off the bleed nipple and press the clutch pedal down a couple of times.
23. Top up reservoir and replicate step 22 & 23 until the pedal goes firm and consistent.
Note: This may not feel odd with the LOF spring as it creates like a double movement, you’ll know what I mean if you fit one.
24. Tighten bleed nipple on the slave cylinder and fit the bleep nipple cap, be sure to mop up any excess spillage as brake/clutch fluid is horrible stuff, especially for paint.
Note: Spray the area in a non-aggressive degreaser if required.
25. Now for the reservoir cap back on, shut the bonnet and take the truck for a spin. You’ll likely notice a huge difference if you have been driving like me with an inefficient system.
26. After the test drive, check the reservoir to ensure the oil level hasn’t dropped and you are done.
