Land Rover Lifestyle

Documenting trips and maintenance of both 90 and 110 TD5 Defenders

[overland-defender]

01/11/2024: Clutching Straws

Put it off for long enough and for sure it’ll bite you in the ass harder. I’m referring more the weather than the mechanical issues. Yep! I’ve got this leaky clutch system to eradicate, luckily it’s actually been functioning fine since I bled it through and renewed the oil. But with that said, it’s not recommended to ignore issues as it could end up being the root cause of an accident which no one wants.

As always, I’m including the parts list with part numbers to give an idea what’s required (model dependent mind) I also have added a few extras in whilst I’m ordering, I’m inclined to get bits and bobs

Parts List

Master Cylinder Assy: STC500100LR

Adaptor: 139082

Gasket: 233220

Pipe Clutch: ANR2183

Clutch Slave Cylinder - Lockheed: FTC5202G

Dust Cap (single): 594091

Gasket-Clutch P: ANR6332

Pad-Pedal: SKE500060G

Gear Knob: BTR9270

8 x 3/8 Pansupa S T screw: AB608031L

L.O.F POWERspring Pedal Assist Kit: PM431

Furthermore, I’ve tried to be as generic as possible to note each step briefly to enable a good idea of what you’ll likely to anticipate when carrying out this job.

1. Understand where all the key components are located.

(a) master cylinder/pedal box - engine bay

(b) slave cylinder - underneath near side of gearbox

2. Remove cap and loosen off the bleed nipple enough to create a drip.

3. Connect a bleed kit to slave bleed nipple and crack open nipple.

4. Bleed the system by pressing down on the clutch pedal, the pedal will eventually go light.

5. Tighten bleed nipple and remove bleed kit.

6. Now the system is mostly free from DOT 4 fluid, the system can now start being stripped.

7. I’ve got OEM air conditioning, so this step may not be applicable to you, but if like me you have AC, remove the lower A/C ‘dash’

8. Pull back the insulation and undo the first bolt retaining the clutch pedal spring, followed by the remaining x5 bolts.

9. Moving to the engine bay, install the reservoir cap back on just to ensure no residual spills.

10. With a rag to hand, undo the hydraulic line from the master cylinder.

11. The pedal box is now able to be removed, take care when manoeuvring.

12. The slave cylinder at first glance seems to be pretty straight forward. But access is somewhat obscure.

13. Firstly undo the hydraulic line to allow better access and then with patience, undo the x2 retaining screws holding the slave cylinder to the housing.

14. When removing the slave cylinder, take extra care as the plunger/piston can fall out inside the housing and it’ll be a box off job!

15. Remove the hard hydraulic line which connects to the slave whilst you’re down there (if you are planning to replace.

16. Now with everything on the bench, you can strip down the assembly and rebuild the pedal box with new components. I’ll let you figure out how as you’ll learn more.

Note: From the images, both Master and slave had failed, so I’d suggest swapping both out.

17. Now you’ve rebuilt, lubricated and admired your work. It’s time to install it all back in.

Note: FYI The LOF spring is a bitch to fit.

18. Working backwards, carry out steps 15 > 7

19. At this point, everything should be back to how it was before you started (minus the leaks).

20. Bleed time! It’s pretty straight forward if you’ve made it this far.

21. Fill the reservoir with fresh DOT 4 and fit the bleed kit to the slave cylinder,

22. Crack off the bleed nipple and press the clutch pedal down a couple of times.

23. Top up reservoir and replicate step 22 & 23 until the pedal goes firm and consistent.

Note: This may not feel odd with the LOF spring as it creates like a double movement, you’ll know what I mean if you fit one.

24. Tighten bleed nipple on the slave cylinder and fit the bleep nipple cap, be sure to mop up any excess spillage as brake/clutch fluid is horrible stuff, especially for paint.

Note: Spray the area in a non-aggressive degreaser if required.

25. Now for the reservoir cap back on, shut the bonnet and take the truck for a spin. You’ll likely notice a huge difference if you have been driving like me with an inefficient system.

26. After the test drive, check the reservoir to ensure the oil level hasn’t dropped and you are done.

[overland-defender]

27/09/2024: Dynamic Wipe

Parts are here, Let the work commence! Unconventionally I’ve decided instead of swapping a part out for new, I’d take the opportunity to rebuild the motor giving it was still functional.

The rebuild wasn’t that straight forward to be honest.

First the drive arm was too thick and regardless how I shimmed it up, it would foul on the cover. So I removed the arm completely and swapped it out for the old. I also reverted back to the shims from the old setup and it appeared to work a treat.

I did however file down the cover where there’s a structural rib in the plate to create a level of clearance and this did help. Right back to installation, as I removed everything at the beginning, that now means installing everything back… well duh! But as you know taking apart is much easier than putting back together, especially when working solo and don’t document the strip sequence.

Which ties in with the previous post, I mentioned the top tip of ensuring to make note of fastener location and quantity, well that was said in vain. I didn’t practice what I preached! and spent more time figuring out what went where. - idiot

After a few hours, the job was completed, asides from the mass of bolts and screws that require installing. The job is like most carried out on the older green oval vehicles - somewhat straight forward with little or no previous experience required.

I don’t however look forward to doing again on the 110, when it eventually craps out.

Take your time and make notes either on paper or your phone… it helps massively.

[overland-defender]

22/09/2024: Static Wipe.

I spoke too soon, turns out the 90 wanted to disrupt my peaceful tranquility of not having ‘much to do’ but there is somewhat of a misconception that Land Rovers owners spend more time working on than driving, I think anyway.

So, what’s the issue you ask? The wipers, well they stopped wiping. If we resided in a warmer drier climate, this wouldn’t be much of an issue and yet the reality is we don’t and the weather in Blighty is unpredictable. Therefore problem.

First of all check your fuses, if it hasn’t blown you’ll have to suck up the courage to remove the dash to gain access to the wiper system.

Be sure to make note of every screw removed and quantity - Top tip.

After what felt like a million screws, the dash is off and you now will have access to the motor, drive wire and wheel boxes. After dismantling the motor, everything appeared in good working order, the grease was somewhat dry but it did seem at some point this 90 has had the motor replace before.

The wheel boxes on the other hand were worn, no wonder the wipers lost drive in the end.

Right, I better order parts.

Parts list

Wheelbox - Wiper Motor - (From 2A622424): DKU500010LR

Wiper Rack: DLE000010LR

Ferrule: DLY000010

Screw M6 x 16mm: SE106161L

Nut - Wiper Arm Pivot: DLP500010

Arm Assy - Wiper - (RHD From 2A622424): DKB000061PMD

Wiper motor park switch: LR057182G

Crank gear and primary link - (from 2A622424): DLW000020

Annoyingly this could be a job for weeks time dependent on shipping.

[overland-defender]

20/09/2024: Autumnal Vibes

So much for an Indian summer, the temperatures dropping off as well evening light and as a result the glumness of the inevitable weather roulette is on the horizon. What I’m getting at is I’m a fair weather hobbyist mechanic, who alike most other DIY’ers, doesn’t have big enough garage to work indoors.

First world problems… 100%, but it would be nice to have a Utopia environment to work in whether that be dry or warmish, in fact both would be ideal.

Anyway I digress, enjoy the image and as it stands both trucks are in good working order to some degree.

[overland-defender]

06/08/2024: Shifting Perspectives.

Ah dang it! Where the hell did 1st and reverse gear go? Yep, something’s going on and this could either be a simple drive way fix or… very costly.

I finish work and set off home, we’ll try to.. 1st gear just isn’t happening. So, I make it home using everything but and then when I pull up outside the yard (my home) I choose to reverse… err nah! Well eventually with what felt like the forced required to pull Excalibur’s sword from the rock, I eventually find reverse.

Hmmmmmmm, scratching my head, is it the box and or clutch that’s died!!? Fuck! I don’t know and it’s going to be a long old job for me to figure out if it’s a mechanical failure or not. But before I start saying bye to my finances in preparation of a new gearbox or clutch there’s a few little things I can check.

Drain both transfer box and gearbox oils and inspect the magnetic drain plugs, if no large metallic debris are visible then that’s a good sign both boxes haven’t shat themselves… result! Oh be sure to replenish the oil you’ve removed, otherwise you’ll for sure end up with problems. - I used a Laser Multi Purpose Mini Pump to fill (4385)

So with both boxes appearing satisfactory, the next thing and what should’ve been the first thing I should’ve inspected was the hydraulic clutch fluid.

Well, well, well…. I think I’ve found the issue and it’s actually pretty obvious in fact. Not only is the reservoir low, but the fluid is jet black!

I attach the Laser brake bleeding kit (2906) in conjunction with the Laser one way bleed valve (7700) and top up the reservoir. Now given there’s a significant amount of fluid missing, this would indicate there’s a leak somewhere and as a result when I depress the clutch pedal the master cylinder is most likely sucking air into the system and not allowing me to select 1st or reverse.

Cracking off the clutch slave cylinder and pumping the clutch pedal whilst occasionally topping up the reservoir, the pedal became firm and the fluid flushed was just suet black. Once satisfied, I nipped the slave bleed nipple and again topped up the reservoir, fitted the cap and took the 110 for a test drive.

The result.. everything feels good. So!, I’ve got a leak somewhere and it’s not entirely obvious where. Given I’m not keen to swap one part out at a time, I’ll assume both cylinders are fubar and replace them.

[overland-defender]

14/07/2024: A-Frame Balls Up

As the adage goes ‘not my first rodeo’ and I’ll be honest changing the D90’s A-Frames ball joint caused me some pain, that was mainly due to access really, I spent more time cutting bolts and modding sockets. So, I was looking forward to changing the D110’s but due to methodology I caused myself some pain.

As per usual, here’s a basic walk through of how you should change the ball joint assembly.

1. Secure the vehicle – Park on a flat surface, engage the handbrake, and chock the front wheels.

2. Raise the rear – Jack up the rear of the vehicle and support it with axle stands under the chassis. Allow the axle to hang freely.

3. Spray penetrating oil – Apply to the A-frame ball joint bolts and let it soak in.

4. Remove chassis bolts. Use a socket to undo the two bolts securing the A-frame to the chassis crossmember.

5. Loosen ball joint nut. Use a socket to loosen (but not fully remove) the nut securing the ball joint to the axle.

6. Separate the joint from the axle, If the ball joint is stuck, use a pry bar or a hammer and drift to help free it from the axle bracket.

7. Remove the A-frame assembly

8. Install the A-frame by lifting it back into position and loosely fit the chassis bolts.

9. Reconnect the ball joint to the axle by inserting the ball joint stud into the axle bracket and hand-tighten the nut.

10. Tighten the A-frame chassis bolts

11. Torque the ball joint nut and fit split pin.

12. Courtesy check all fasteners are secure.

13. Lower the vehicle, Remove the axle stands and lower back onto the ground.

14. Final torque check, With the vehicle at normal ride height, re-check the torque on all bolts.

15. Test drive, Drive slowly and check for any unusual noises or movement from the rear suspension.

Parts and associated numbers

Fulcrum Bracket inc A Frame Ball Joint: DA1129

Fulcrum Bracket Fasteners: DA1129KIT

As you’ve noticed, in bold and red ‘allow the axle to hang freely’ why is this important!? Well… if you don’t do this you’ll struggle like hell (me) and make a rod for your own back.

[overland-defender]

04/07/2024: Flap Differential

Annoyingly one day Amy came home… and I’d noticed the rear near side mud flap was missing, wtf!? This was a long time ago and it was in fact it a new mud flap that appeared to be stolen! Now I’m not one to throw accusations around but it seemed odd to me and they (bolts) were loctited in.

So cut a long boring story short, I had a spare used flap in the box of spares, ordered stainless steel brackets and fasteners. The brackets went for powder coating and eventually (today) I fitted it all.

Top tip: Scour pad and some washing up liquid with warm water is the recipe for getting the weathered mud flap back into something presentable, plus with the addition of a plastic enhancer - not bad aye!?, just a shame it makes the rear cross member look like turd.

Now onto the D110, a leak on a truck is like it shedding a tear of disrepair… I mean if I was leaking fluid I’d likely be pretty upset as well. So, we focus our or my attention to the rear differential input seal, which has had a moist casing for a while.

How to….

1. Mark the propshaft position on the drive flange for correct refitting.

2. Remove the propshaft bolts using a spanner/socket, then secure the propshaft out of the way.

3. Use a socket and breaker bar to remove the pinion nut.

4. Slide off the drive flange – a light tap with a rubber mallet may help.

5. Remove the Old Differential Seal, by carefully prying out the old seal using a seal puller or flathead screwdriver.

6. Clean the seal mating surface to remove any debris or old sealant, inspect and grease bearing if necessary.

7. Install the New OEM Differential Seal, by lightly coating the outer edge of the new seal with gear oil for ease of installation.

8. Carefully press or tap it into place using a rubber mallet or a seal driver, ensuring it sits flush and even.

9. Reinstall the drive flange onto the pinion shaft.

10. Apply thread-locking compound to the pinion nut threads and tighten it securely (refer to manufacturer torque specs).

11. Reattach the propshaft, aligning it with the marks made earlier.

12. Check the seal area for any gaps or damage.

13. Refill the differential with fresh oil if it was drained.

14. Test drive and inspect for leaks.

Final Notes:

- Using a genuine OEM seal ensures longevity and a proper fit.

- If you don’t have the correct torque values, tighten the pinion nut securely but avoid overtightening.

- Regularly inspect for leaks after installation.

Parts for Rear Mudgaurds

RH Mudflap Bracket 90: MUC3986

LH Mudflap Bracket 90: MUC3987

Mudflap Support Plate 90 (both sides): MUC1512

Parts for rear differential input seal

Flange Kit: NSTSTC3124G

Rear Propshaft Bolt Kit: DA1424

[overland-defender]

22/06/2024: The Lucas Classic 2024

This past weekend, my friend Pete and I took the Defender 110—missing a front mudflap but still immaculately cleaned—to The Lucas Classic 2024 at Shelsley Walsh. It was a fantastic event, with an impressive turnout of classic cars, Land Rovers, and motorcycles on display. The sheer variety of vehicles made for a spectacular sight, and it was great to see so many enthusiasts coming together to celebrate automotive history.

In attendance was Henry Cole and Fuzzy Townsend, adding to the event’s charm and drawing plenty of interest from fellow motoring fans. Another unforgettable moment was the stunning Spitfire flyover air show, which captivated the crowd and added a touch of wartime nostalgia to the occasion.

Unfortunately, a serious crash led to the closure of the Hillclimb for investigation very early on, preventing many attendees from running their vehicles up the iconic course. The severity of the incident meant that both the police and Shelsley Walsh marshals had to step in, and our thoughts remain with the individual involved, who is currently in hospital in stable condition (apparently)—we wish him a full and speedy recovery.

Welcome to The Lucas Classic. Join us for a day of celebration on and off the famous Hillclimb at Shelsley Walsh as we gather an impressive

[overland-defender]

16/06/2024: Wartime in The Vale

This morning I headed to the Wartime in the Vale at Ashdown Camp with my dad. With hundreds of military vehicles, re-enactments, and a cracking atmosphere, it was like stepping back in time… to some degree.

One of the best parts of the day was chatting with my dad about my grandfather, Falcon Avery, who served in WWII with the Gloucestershire Regiment. Being surrounded by history made it easy to imagine what he might have experienced, and hearing my dad’s stories about him added a personal connection to everything we saw.

The vehicle displays were incredible, with everything from tanks and armoured vehicles to classic British Land Rovers. As a Land Rover owner, I especially loved seeing the full range, from Series 1s to modern Defender Wolfs, all of which had served in the British Army.

The battle re-enactments and arena displays were another highlight, complete with pyrotechnics and historic vehicles in action. It’s one thing to read about history, but watching it play out in front of you is something else entirely.

Of course, no event like this is complete without a browse through the trade stalls, packed with military memorabilia, vehicle parts, and vintage collectibles. The live 1940s music added the perfect finishing touch, creating an atmosphere that felt completely immersive.

If you’ve never been to Wartime in the Vale, I can’t recommend it enough. Whether you’re a history buff, a vehicle enthusiast, or just looking for a unique day out, it’s well worth the trip. I’ll definitely be back next year!

Check out more about the event

Ashdown WWII Camp

Premiere Show of the year, WWII Army Camp with reenactors, 500+ military vehicles, Militaria & Vintage traders, Battle, Dance classes, Music

[overland-defender]

28/01/2024: Braking’s Bad

Ah the brake overhaul job, it’s becoming second nature to me. Yet the pain that comes with having to remove the hub assembly in order to change the disc for some is annoyance, it does mean you are in someways forced to inspect bearings and seals etc.

Following the below to get an idea of the methodology and required tooling to carry out this job. (Caliper and disc replacement).

How to Replace Rear Brake Discs & Calipers on a 2005 Land Rover Defender 110

This guide walks you through replacing the rear brake discs and calipers, which on this model require removing the hub assembly.

Tools & Equipment Needed:

- Jack and axle stands

- Breaker bar

- Sockets (13mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 52mm hub nut socket)

- Torque wrench

- Brake hose clamp

- Brake fluid (Dot 4 or 5.1)

- Brake cleaner

- Wire brush

- Copper grease

- Bungee cord or hook

- Brake bleeding kit

1. Preparation

1. Park on a level surface, engage the handbrake, and chock the front wheels.

2. Loosen the rear wheel nuts slightly.

3. Jack up the rear axle and secure it on axle stands.

4. Remove the wheels.

2. Remove the Brake Caliper & Pads

5. Use a brake hose clamp to prevent fluid loss and disconnect the brake hose from the caliper.

6. Remove the two caliper bolts.

7. Carefully remove the caliper and suspend it with a bungee cord (do not let it hang by the hose).

8. Remove the brake pads.

3. Remove the Drive Flange & Hub Assembly

9. Remove the drive flange bolts and remove the flange.

10. Remove the circlip and washer from the driveshaft end.

11. Undo the hub nuts and remove them.

12. Slide the hub and wheel bearing assembly off the stub axle. Be careful, as the outer wheel bearing may come loose.

4. Replace the Brake Disc

13. Remove the disc retaining screws.

14. Remove the old brake disc from the hub (may require a hammer or press).

15. Clean the hub face and install the new brake disc.

16. Secure it with the retaining screws.

5. Reassemble the Hub & Drive Flange

17. Reinstall the hub onto the stub axle with the bearings in place.

18. Tighten the hub nut fully, then back it off slightly to allow for proper bearing preload.

19. Reinstall the washer and circlip on the driveshaft end.

20. Reattach the drive flange and secure it.

6. Reinstall the Brake Components

21. Reinstall the caliper carrier and tighten the bolts.

22. Insert the new brake pads with copper grease on contact points (not friction surface).

23. Compress the caliper piston using a C-clamp or piston tool.

24. Reattach the caliper and tighten the bolts.

7. Reconnect Brake Hose & Bleed Brakes

25. Reattach the brake hose and secure it.

26. Refill brake fluid if needed and bleed the brakes to remove air.

8. Final Checks & Reassembly

27. Reinstall the wheels and tighten the wheel nuts.

28. Lower the vehicle and double-check all connections.

29. Pump the brake pedal to seat the pads.

30. Check for leaks and test drive at low speed.

Notes:

Always replace brake components in pairs.

Ensure wheel bearings are greased and properly adjusted before reinstalling the hub.

After installation, bed in the new brakes by performing several gentle stops from moderate speeds.

Parts list

Inner stub axle seal - OE Manufacturer: FTC5268G

Gasket - stub axle to axle: FTC3648

Rear stub axles: FTC3188

Stub axle mudshield: FRC2310

Screw M6 X 20: FS106207L

Washer: 2215L

Rear caliper AP (OEM) - 110/130 - LH - from 1A614448: SMC500260G

Rear caliper AP (OEM) - 110/130 - RH - from 1A614448: SMC500270G

Stainless Steel Brake Shield Bracket: DA4789

Wheel Bearings - Timken (OE): STC4382G

110 & 130 Rear POWERspec Brake Kit - From XA159807: 110-RP

Bolts: LR082331

I hope the above brief explanation gives you confidence to go give it ago yourself.

[overland-defender]

01/01/2024: Happy New Gear

I’m back! And I’ve got short and sweet post to share this morning.

I actually think I saw this in Land Rover Monthly (magazine) in fact I’m not sure, I spend so much time in and out of Land Rover online shops etc who knows, in fact who really cares?. What you see before your hungover eyes is the…..

MUDStuff Defender Tunnel Tray (R380 300Tdi/Td5): MUD-00013-RHD

How easy is it to fit? Well if you struggle to fit the tunnel tray, you may also struggle to exist. All jokes aside the aperture within the tray snugglely fits around the rubber gaiter making it pretty sturdy with no requirement for fasteners (self tappers for those of you who use items from your garden shed)

Given the 90 has a centre seat for the dog explicitly (laughing) we have no where for beverages or the other random stuff that ends up hanging about, so this is very useful to have.

Without doubt £45 well spent.

[overland-defender]

10/12/2023: Minor Overhaul

Off the back of the turbo removal, I took it upon myself not only to replenish the fasteners and gaskets but to replace the injector looms along with breather pipes etc etc… why? Well why not. I know most will argue if it’s not broke, why you fixing (replacing) it. Preventive maintenance and mitigating further components failure. Here’s the list of parts replaced.

Injector Wiring Harness - TD5: AMR6103G

Gasket-Turbocharger: PNT100030

Exhaust Gasket and Nuts - TD5: PM303

Washer-Sealing: ADU6847L

Screw: FS106167L

Gasket: ERR6768G

Cam Cover Gasket - TD5 (LATE): LVP000020LR

Isolator: ERR7266

Screw Flanged: FS106307L

Hose-Breather-Cam Cvr Tube: LLH500180LR

Valve: LLN100140LG

Nut - (Flanged): LR019197LR

Screw-Flanged Head M6 X 12: FS106127L

Front Camshaft Oil Seal - TD5: LDI100030

Plastic clip: PRC3180

Annoyingly it started to rain, and I didn’t fancy waiting another day for the sake of a drizzle even if that drizzle felt like -5 degs C, anyway all parts that required swapping out were straight forward. When replacing the front cam cover gasket, take care removing it, avoid using screw drivers to pry it out. I have seen on the internet pesky cowboy mechanics silicone’ing the cap in place to stop the leak instead of spending £5-15 (brand depending).

At some point I’d like to swap out the injector seals and check clearances. The 90 is a tad tappier than the 110. Be interested to know the condition of the hydraulic lifters.

Anyway if I post nothing further this month, Merry Christmas y’all!

[overland-defender]

25/11/2023: Turbo Lag?

The 90 has been a solid runner since we’ve owned it, but recently I’ve noticed what I can only described as a flat power delivery at mid-high revs.

Not that I think it’s the turbo, but I used it as an excuse to remove the turbo and inspect it. There is also speculation bouncing around the internet that the turbo wastegate actuator becomes seized.

Removal of the turbo is pretty straightforward providing the fasteners securing it to the manifold and exhaust. I’ll order some new gaskets, nuts etc. and give the turbo housing a good clean.

Only observation I can make is there is some residual oil within the turbo, but the turbo propeller is free moving with no play.

[overland-defender]

12/11/2023: Salisbury Plaining

I booked this back in February and due work commitments (travelling to America) Tom @ www.4x4adventuretours.co.uk kindly moved my booking (thumbs up).

4x4 Adventure Tours Prepared to go further - 4x4 Adventure Tours Guided green land off-road tours for Land Rovers

Let’s face it, Salisbury Plain is the ultimate off-road destination in UK in most people’s eyes. This vast Wiltshire landscape, adjacent to the iconic Stonehenge, is the largest military training ground in the UK and considered a mecca for adventure seekers like me and my trusty 110 Defender + Will (random friend).

The tour offered a mixture of gravel tracks, muddy lanes, and open grasslands, with sights like bombed-out tanks, the German Village (featured on Top Gear), and sweeping views across southern England. Some routes were challenging for other guests yet accessible, perfect for newer and/or seasoned off-roaders alike.

But with all the fun going on, Safety is without doubt paramount here—straying off course in this active military zone risks severe consequences, including encountering unexploded munitions. That’s why joining a guided tour with 4×4 Adventure Tours was the way to go if you are not familiar with the Plains. They kept us on legal paths, helped navigate the maze of military tracks, and ensured we saw the best the plain has to offer even if it was absolutely minging outside.

The tour began and ended at Redhorn Gate near Devizes, running for approximately 8 hours including (9 am to 5 am). It was clear that the careful planning, resulted in the plain becoming an absolute playground of history, nature, and off-road excitement… yes it was awesome!

I look forward to booking again with them.

[overland-defender]

22/10/2023: Switched

The running theme of this blog will be the continuation of effort to solve this god damn starting issue. Yes, I’m an engineer (mechanical) but everything has been changed… and yet the D110 is as lethargic as a university student.

But have I changed everything!? Well apparently not. There so happens to be a switch at the back of the ignition barrel which over time wears and can lead to poor starting apparently. Result!! and it doesn’t cost a small JLR fortune.

As normal I went the genuine route (pay extra for a Land Rover sticker basically) and for like £10+ you don’t have to replace the whole assembly.

LR039638: Ignition Switch

Methodology

1. Remove steering wheel

2. Remove steering wheel shrouds (upper & lower)

3. Remove dial shroud and disconnect dials with care

4. Disconnect wiring to switch

5. Undo x2 retaining (grub) screws - ref image

6. Remove switch and be careful to retain collar whilst making note of connection prong orientation.

7. Install metal collar from old switch to new.

8. Install new switch and secure via x2 screws.

9. Complete steps 4>1 (reverse order you initially did)

Verdict: It definitely makes a difference and that’s not just placebo. I hope this answers my prayers as when a repeating issue doesn’t do one, it really starts to take its toll on your patience.

I’m sure there will a future post covering the same issue again… likely!

[overland-defender]

09/08/2023: Wheels on Wednesdays (WoW)

Not an event I’ve come across before to be honest, it was only something I had learnt about through a colleague of mine and given it was only being hosted down the road at the Morgan Motor Company in Malvern, I didn’t want to pass up the opportunity to attend.

So what is WoW? It can either an early morning or evening drive/ride out to some iconic venues. Food, drink and a social gathering of motoring enthusiasts to be precise.

To be honest I was more intrigued at the venue over the other vehicles attending, I’m not a fan boy of rich people showing off their toys and quite frankly revving the tits off your Lamborghini kinda reinforces that perception.

But enough about that, it’s a great way to feel all nostalgic walking around various decades of automotive history both venue and guest cars. The highlight for me was actually the array of 2 wheels poised next to a patina’d Series 1.

The Ferrari parked next to me made me snigger a little bit, parking is first come first serve, so if you get there way before opening you’ll get a space in the car park where everyone enters.. leave it a little late and you’ll be around the back on the field. Well this entitled owner of the Ferrari thought it was outrageous and kicked up a right stink about being around the back, It’s awesome to flaunt your pride and joy… but Jesus, don’t be a dick!

Want to attend the next event? Following the link below and who knows I may see you there.

Wheels on Wednesday | Car & Bike Meets | Worcestershire

WoW is an early morning/evening drive/ride out to some of Worcestershires iconic venues. Food, drink and a social gathering of motoring enth

[overland-defender]

28/07/2023: Exhaustion

Going back a few posts, you’ll remember I had visited Allisport to collect a rear section of an exhaust (stainless steel) as the wife wanted something that was ‘shiny’ believe it or not.

Well I suppose that was a good shout by her and luckily I obtained the necessary parts preempting that I’d like have to swap out some other parts whilst in the vicinity.

Those parts include

WCU101320: Centre Exhaust Hanger (Galvanised)

BH110351: Stainless Steel M10 x 180mm Hex Head

NY110047L: Stainless Steel M10 Nylon Nuts

Generic Stainless Steel M10 Flat Washers

ESR3172: Exhaust Rubber (4-hole)

ESR3294: Rear Exhaust Mounting Bracket

As if a coincidence, this morning Amy noticed a weird metallic knock on the way back home from the shops… and as you would have guessed the rear section was completely shot.

My advice, remove the rear wheel to give the best access. Penetrating fluid without doubt is a must and if you have maptun gas you’ll make the job a lot easier.

1. Remove x3 fasteners

2. Unmount exhaust hanger (rear)

3. Remove rear exhaust hanger bracket

4. Remove x2 centre exhaust hanger.

5. Fit centre exhaust bracket and fasteners

6. Fit exhaust rubber to centre bracket,

Note: Makes life a lot easier doing this now.

7. Fit rear exhaust bracket (loosely)

8. Feed exhaust rubber onto exhaust

9. Carefully feed the exhaust over the rear axle.

10. Mount Exhaust to rear bracket/rubber.

11. Fit gasket and x3 fasteners

12. Tighten rear bracket

You are all done.

Take it for a shake down drive to allow the exhaust to heat up and shrink, stainless steel doesn’t tend to thermally expand but it’s best to drive, cool and then recheck all fasteners.