#shiftech

[overland-defender]

01/11/2024: Clutching Straws

Put it off for long enough and for sure it’ll bite you in the ass harder. I’m referring more the weather than the mechanical issues. Yep! I’ve got this leaky clutch system to eradicate, luckily it’s actually been functioning fine since I bled it through and renewed the oil. But with that said, it’s not recommended to ignore issues as it could end up being the root cause of an accident which no one wants.

As always, I’m including the parts list with part numbers to give an idea what’s required (model dependent mind) I also have added a few extras in whilst I’m ordering, I’m inclined to get bits and bobs

Parts List

Master Cylinder Assy: STC500100LR

Adaptor: 139082

Gasket: 233220

Pipe Clutch: ANR2183

Clutch Slave Cylinder - Lockheed: FTC5202G

Dust Cap (single): 594091

Gasket-Clutch P: ANR6332

Pad-Pedal: SKE500060G

Gear Knob: BTR9270

8 x 3/8 Pansupa S T screw: AB608031L

L.O.F POWERspring Pedal Assist Kit: PM431

Furthermore, I’ve tried to be as generic as possible to note each step briefly to enable a good idea of what you’ll likely to anticipate when carrying out this job.

1. Understand where all the key components are located.

(a) master cylinder/pedal box - engine bay

(b) slave cylinder - underneath near side of gearbox

2. Remove cap and loosen off the bleed nipple enough to create a drip.

3. Connect a bleed kit to slave bleed nipple and crack open nipple.

4. Bleed the system by pressing down on the clutch pedal, the pedal will eventually go light.

5. Tighten bleed nipple and remove bleed kit.

6. Now the system is mostly free from DOT 4 fluid, the system can now start being stripped.

7. I’ve got OEM air conditioning, so this step may not be applicable to you, but if like me you have AC, remove the lower A/C ‘dash’

8. Pull back the insulation and undo the first bolt retaining the clutch pedal spring, followed by the remaining x5 bolts.

9. Moving to the engine bay, install the reservoir cap back on just to ensure no residual spills.

10. With a rag to hand, undo the hydraulic line from the master cylinder.

11. The pedal box is now able to be removed, take care when manoeuvring.

12. The slave cylinder at first glance seems to be pretty straight forward. But access is somewhat obscure.

13. Firstly undo the hydraulic line to allow better access and then with patience, undo the x2 retaining screws holding the slave cylinder to the housing.

14. When removing the slave cylinder, take extra care as the plunger/piston can fall out inside the housing and it’ll be a box off job!

15. Remove the hard hydraulic line which connects to the slave whilst you’re down there (if you are planning to replace.

16. Now with everything on the bench, you can strip down the assembly and rebuild the pedal box with new components. I’ll let you figure out how as you’ll learn more.

Note: From the images, both Master and slave had failed, so I’d suggest swapping both out.

17. Now you’ve rebuilt, lubricated and admired your work. It’s time to install it all back in.

Note: FYI The LOF spring is a bitch to fit.

18. Working backwards, carry out steps 15 > 7

19. At this point, everything should be back to how it was before you started (minus the leaks).

20. Bleed time! It’s pretty straight forward if you’ve made it this far.

21. Fill the reservoir with fresh DOT 4 and fit the bleed kit to the slave cylinder,

22. Crack off the bleed nipple and press the clutch pedal down a couple of times.

23. Top up reservoir and replicate step 22 & 23 until the pedal goes firm and consistent.

Note: This may not feel odd with the LOF spring as it creates like a double movement, you’ll know what I mean if you fit one.

24. Tighten bleed nipple on the slave cylinder and fit the bleep nipple cap, be sure to mop up any excess spillage as brake/clutch fluid is horrible stuff, especially for paint.

Note: Spray the area in a non-aggressive degreaser if required.

25. Now for the reservoir cap back on, shut the bonnet and take the truck for a spin. You’ll likely notice a huge difference if you have been driving like me with an inefficient system.

26. After the test drive, check the reservoir to ensure the oil level hasn’t dropped and you are done.

[igknightedart]

Been meaning to find a good way to demo Shiftech’s powers and opted for...an extreme example specific to the TFA version.

I call this form “Arachnia Genome”, since it’s what happens when he stings and tries to copy Blackarachnia’s abilities. It essentially turns him into a giant scorpion mutant that sheds off vehicle mode kibble and sprouts all sorts of nasty extra parts that are VERY handy for a berserker rampage!

Only thing that sucks is that when he turns back, his vehicle mode parts have to “grow back” which usually takes a week or two and can leave him fairly vulnerable.

[igknightedart]

AH SHIT since @thenamesblurrito reminded me, I actually drew up a concept the other day for their AU setting “SNAP for my own SI, Shiftech following the revamp!

Honestly, I don’t know why I included the “3.5″ size indicator for what I call his “presentable” form other than to indicate him being a bit taller/maybe a bit denser than usual for those frame types but this one was a lot of fun to work on overall!

We’ve determined that this dude is basically a cryptid in the SNAP setting, occasionally poking people from the shadows with that stinger of his to feed off of energy, making him a prime candidate for Team Purbl in the process.

[igknightedart]

Go figure, just a few weeks after I do this dynamic piece with Shiftech, I fuck with his design lol

Wanted to make some tweaks to the TFA version for color and to drive home a more “mutated” aesthetic, kinda like TFA Blackarachnia and Waspinator (for plot reasons!).

my hope is the fact I even whipped up the scale chart bodes well for the longevity of this design/its influence on other versions of the character

Edit: Oh no! I forgot to add the deployed tail until now! I am a fool!!!

[igknightedart]

When you find your former classmate again after she turned you into a scorpion monster and she’s doing it again to some OTHER sucker.

[igknightedart]

Guess you could say we’re really kicking things off now that I’m getting used to Clip Studio : 3

Despite being a massive Kamen Rider nut, I tend to not actually draw the characters or even elements like finishing moves that much, so I felt Shiftech was an appropriate testing ground for a good ol’ Rider Kick render.

[igknightedart]

I...completely forgot that I had done this but IDW1 style concept for my TFSona, Shiftech!

Started out as kind of a “style” experiment to see how I could comfortably draw the IDW style characters and to throw him at IDW1 Moonracer like the absolute goon that I am.

[igknightedart]

Ok so as a few friends on Discord can attest, I swore awhile ago that if I ever got the bug to replace Stormguard as my TFSona again, I’d have to come up with one that tied ALL of the previous ones together...and yeah, here he is lol

Shiftech, Shapeshifter extraordinaire!

As the result of what is essentially an “overclocked T-Cog”, he has the ability to replicate other bots and their basic power sets for three minute intervals (though he is unable to mask his color scheme with such short term replications) or creating more elaborate forms (the likes of Stormguard and Solstice before him), at the risk of them becoming “all consuming” unless said forms attain critical damage. Or at least that’s the concept I have for him atm, may be subject to a bit of tweaking

Bonus: “Team Purbl”/The Team With No Name logo in the bottom right corner. Not a whole lot to say on it, other than that it’s a bit of an in-joke between myself and a few friends on Discord. The symbol is just something one of the members cooked up to make them seem more official/to be able to put on a “non combative” logo that wasn’t just the blank rubsign.