Fashion Patternmaking Techniques: Jackets, Coats and Cloaks
This is another volume by Antonio Donnanno which uses the block or sloper method to create a whole variety of garments. This one covers jackets from the ubiquitous blazer to the motorcycle jacket to the more interesting cuts that women only tend to wear. It defines types of jackets and coats as you see here with the raglan sleeve, the redingote, and what he calls the Montgomery and we call the duffle coat. The redingote, by the way is a reworking by the French of the word riding-coat, then reworked back into the English language. How is that for fun?
Along the way, he explains the basic terminology for different kinds of collars, sleeves, and garment lines for both women’s and men’s coats and jackets. Each one comes with a full sketch of how to draft the pattern pieces by altering the basic block: see the “Collarless Lapel” for part of an example of such a sketch.
Capes and hoods in variety show up under the cloaks section, although I think they only work well for evening wear. I really like sleeves for daywear as you can remain warm and use your arms fully. But a striking cape is something most of us would be willing to cope with for an evening out. A last section explains how to cope with fitting problems for those garments that fall close to the body.
This is a technical manual and if you studied it closely, you would gain an almost encyclopedic knowledge of drafting and outer wear garment design. You can find it here at PromoPress: https://www.promopress.es/en/
