#pizbadile

[theunusualworldofalpinism]

Cassin on the north face of the piz badile with Fred

We parked the van over by Val Masino and John Crook drove us to Bondo where we walked up to the Sass Fur hut.

The walk in to the hut was only about 3 hours and we took a naked shower in the stream just before the hut so we felt fresh for the evening and following day. We treated ourselves to a hut dinner as we didn’t want to carry a stove and gas etc. We had an early night and woke up around 4am for breakfast the next morning. We walked in pretty quick and ended up being first on the route. There was snow on the approach but we managed just using our approach shoes and cutting steps with them as it was warm and the snow was soft.

Finding the start of the route was fairly easy just following the guidebook description and the pitches just felt like scrambling and traversing. We were too far right when we tried to hit the ledge before the crux pitch so we had to do a big traverse left to make it! Climbing off around the roof was quite tricky Fred led this pitch and there were lots of pitons that were difficult to see. The pitch leading up to the first tricky chimney was a v shaped groove with thin climbing so was a little trickier than I expected but it was nice climbing. Both Fred and I climbed the first chimney stuck inside it and it felt quite hard. We saw some others bridge on the outside which looked easier! But it felt necessary to go inside the chimney to place and take out gear so trying anything different was hard. The second chimney was nice but a little wet. The second to last pitch felt spicey - even though the climbing was easy there wasn’t much gear which made it bold when you are feeling tired!

It was great to do a north face that is 800m but I wasn’t a huge fan of the climbing. It felt like : scramble, traverse, chimney. Ending up on the north ridge was nice and I liked the exposure although it was rather busy.

We made some friends who we shared the belay with the whole route on the cassin. One guy was called Patrick who I shared a belay with most of the time and who is in this selfie with me!

[exploralp-blog]

After the sad event of 2017, finally the Sasc Furä hut will reopen in the Summer again! Check out our blog about the Piz Badile area EXPLORALP - your travel blog to discover the Alps.

[adsab]

After a long day which involved leaving Sasc Fura hut in the dark, an hour long slog lead us up a ridge to an icy snow slope where a slip would have resulted in a fall over a 300 meter void. After that, we found ourselves at the bottom of our route. We then went on to enjoy thirty pitches or so of sublime alpine granite. We finally summited Piz Badile around 2pm in the afternoon. As the summit sits right on the border between Italy and Switzerland, you then have to make a choice between which country you want to stay in for the night. For us, the choice was easy. We preferred to make the descent into Italy before hiking over two amazing passes in order to make our way back into Switzerland. Here, we make one of a number of multiple rapells to our hut in Italy. To speed the process, we share ropes with a pair of British climbers as the next rappel line gets prepared by another party below. #pizbadile, #italy, #switzerland, #europe, #climbing, #rockclimbing, #climbing, #climbinglife, #peopleinnature, #iloveclimbing, #adventure, #holidays, #vacation, #travelphotography #canong10 https://www.instagram.com/p/Bm9p0kulpO4/?utm_source=ig_tumblr_share&igshid=11mlxilu8coqh

[richardwharram]

Mountain men 👍🏼😄🇮🇹🇬🇧 #valmasino #valdimello #valporcellizzo #pizbadile #rifuggiogianetti #lombardia #iglombardia #ig_lombardia (at Rifugio Gianetti)

[iwanteunissen]

healing by I w a n T e u n i s s e n