#raw denim guide

[fashionnewzroom]

The Raw Denim Guide: Why “Brut Denim” is the Only Fabric You Need in 2026

Raw denim fabric—also known as brut denim—is unwashed, untreated denim that retains its original indigo depth, structure, and durability. In 2026, it’s dominating fashion due to its sustainability, long lifespan, and personalized fade patterns. Unlike pre-distressed denim, raw denim jeans evolve with wear, making each pair unique. This guide explains raw denim vs washed denim, explores denim…

The Raw Denim Guide: Why “Brut Denim” is the Only Fabric You Need in 2026

[marblesnewyork]

Raw Denim Redux

I love this guide to raw denim because it masterfully explains both what raw denim is and why it's so darn cool.  I found this gem on www.highsnobiety.com, please enjoy.

A Beginner’s Guide to Raw Denim

By Brock Cardiner posted on November 27, 2012 2:20 pm

Continuing from where we left off in our history of Japanese denim, we head toward the oftentimes confusing world of “raw”, or “dry”, denim. The topic is no joke for those who have spent countless hours researching the best in raw denim, not to mention a tidy sum of money. Even so, there’s still plenty of educating to be done especially for people who have considered dropping a little extra money but hesitated at the last second due to not quite understanding the hype behind it.

Here we’ll start from the beginning and hopefully give those with a head full of raw denim knowledge a little something extra. Take a look below for the full article.

Like any topic involving subtleties and complexities, it’s necessary to understand the basics before heading off into more advanced territory. To begin, during a pair of jeans’ construction there is usually a step towards the end, once the denim has taken the form of jeans, where the final product is washed. This wash takes place after the dye is applied, meaning some of the dye runs off during this process.

Washing’s main purpose is to make each pair softer and reduce the amount of shrinkage after the wearer’s first wash. With a pair of washed denim, consumers know almost certainly how that pair will look and fit for the foreseeable future. Of course, more fading and stressing is bound to take place over the course of a pair’s life but not nearly to the same extent as raw denim.

Raw denim, on the other hand, skips the washing process entirely which is why the term “raw” is often used interchangeably with the term “dry”. Each pair is left with the dye clinging tightly to the cotton, leaving the jeans’ first wash to your discretion. Typically, the first wash will come after 6 months or a year of daily wear, although it’s not unheard of to let a pair go its entire life without a wash.

As mentioned earlier, the first wash sheds off a significant amount of dye which implicitly changes the color of the garment. In a pair of pre-washed denim, the jeans haven’t been worn yet so the dye comes off uniformly. Not so with raw denim. By the time the first wash rolls around, your jeans have become a veritable diary of your daily life. They’ve tread dirty city streets, trekked dusty mountain paths, sat bunched up in lecture halls and offices, and grinded against the rear of unwilling participants. Everything you’ve done – from your proudest moments to your most shameful – your raw pair of jeans has done.

Thus, when the time comes to wash a pair, careful measurements are taken to ensure that the fading to follow is a testament to the trials, triumphs, and tribulations of months past. To the staunchest raw denim enthusiasts, it’s akin to setting up a shrine and sacrificing months of passive devotion in order for each pair to be born anew. It is the caterpillar, with its alien body and slimy legs, becoming a butterfly with wing patterns unique unto itself. The fades, from the whiskers to the combs, are authentic and could only be born of he who chose to wait.

In short, raw denim is created as a “blank slate” for each wearer to carve his or her own life onto. While it often takes months or years of dedication, the end result is worth it in the form of a piece of clothing that is yours and yours alone. During the lifespan of a pair, the wearer and the wearee experience a reciprocal unconditional love rivaled only by the likes of a loyal pet.

All images courtesy of Rawr Denim

[marblesnewyork]

Raw vs. Selvedge

I often use the terms raw and selvedge denim interchangeably, but I really shouldn’t.  As discussed in my previous post, raw denim refers to jeans that are unwashed and sold in their purest form.  Selvedge refers to a completely different aspect of denim, and although raw denim is typically made with selvedge (and in my opinion should only be made that way) it does not make the terminology interchangeable.  I apologize for any confusion, and will be sure to use more precise language from now on.

[marblesnewyork]

What Is Raw Denim?

It is denim in its purest form. 

(photo courtesy of Rawr Denim)

Although I am an appreciator and wearer of raw denim I prefer to let a true denim expert explain it.  I’ve decided to re-blog about this topic by quoting highlights from a full article written by an actual aficionado, Nick Coe of Rawr Denim. 

Please see my extractions below:

  1. What Is Raw Denim?

Also known as “dry denim” for its hard texture, according to Wikipedia, raw denim is “a denim fabric that is not washed after being dyed during its production”.  In our words though…

Raw denim is denim that has been unwashed, untreated, and virtually untouched to the extent that it remains in its pure form.

We won’t dig too deep into the anatomy, but there are some notable differences to look for. From a higher-level, some of the primary details that you should make special note of:

Material:  Raw denim jeans are typically (but not always) produced with 100% cotton and can be sourced from a number of countries.  Some folks will argue that a particular country has the “best” cotton (in terms of durability, resulting denim fades, and worn feel) and some of the most popular sources include U.S.A., Zimbabwe, and Japan.

Weight:  Ever notice how some raw denim feels really thick (and heavy) while others are much thinner (and lighter)?  That’s precisely what is referred to as the denim weight – or, technically speaking, how much a yard of raw denim fabric weighs in ounces (Oz.).  Putting aside the manufacturing process, the heavier the denim, the more rigid the garment (also due to starching) and more resistent it will be to abrade.

12 Oz. and Less: Considered light raw denim

12 Oz. – 16 Oz.: Considered mid-range weight and most common

16 Oz. and Up: Considered heavier

Fit: Similar to any pair of pants, raw denim jeans comes in a variety of styles, cuts, and fits.  One key element to be cognizant of is whether or not your raw denim is non-sanforized or sanforized.  If it is the former, then after your raw denim’s first soak/wash (see – Soaking Raw Denim: The Critical Preliminary Step and How To Clean and Wash Your Raw Denim), your denim can shrink significantly more (7% – 10%) compared to the latter (1% – 5%).

Other: There are many other details to pay attention to when browsing raw denim, from each and every rivet and button donut, to the selvedge and slubbiness.

2. When Did Raw Denim Come About?

The term “denim” originates from the French town, “de Nîmes”, where the fabric is said to have first been produced.  As the fabric was tough and hard, it was nicknamed “serge de Nîmes” (serge being French for “sturdy”), but later just shortened to “denim”.

In terms of raw denim specifically, it is difficult to trace back the exact time of raw denim’s first emergence, but it was likely between the late 1800′s and mid-1900′s.   At this point, raw denim was widely produced and worn on a larger scale in America by trades workers and miners – hence the vintage Americana appeal of some brands.  It is worth noting that denim produced during this time was primarily, if not entirely, selvedge denim.

By the time the 1950s came about, WWII had ended and youth culture dominated. Denim became so popular that many American mills abandoned the slower shuttle looms to switch in faster, industrial machines with mass production capabilities.

What was done with the shuttle looms?  Long story short, the U.S. helped rebuild many of Japan’s industries, such as the textile industry.  Thus, Japan received many, many shuttle looms; kickstarting numerous denim mills, and leading to today’s “Japanese raw denim” craze.

A NOTE FROM MARBLES

This is the golden nugget, dear reader:

"Not once during the finishing process is the denim distressed or washed in any way.  It is left in its most pure and rawest state, and will only deteriorate with the wearer’s personal use."

If nothing else I've quoted makes sense to you, the above quote from Coe's article should be enough to understand raw denim it its purist form (ha!  I made a pun!).

Raw denim means that every individual pair of jeans wears in uniquely to its wearer.  The wear-in process of raw denim, therefore, is taken very seriously by its owners.  The number of times you wash your jeans affects the 'fade,' and it is recommended that you wait at least 6 months before the first wash.

(photo courtesy of Rawr Denim's Fade Friday- 12-14 months old, 2 soaks, 2 washes)