What Is Raw Denim?
It is denim in its purest form.
(photo courtesy of Rawr Denim)
Although I am an appreciator and wearer of raw denim I prefer to let a true denim expert explain it. I’ve decided to re-blog about this topic by quoting highlights from a full article written by an actual aficionado, Nick Coe of Rawr Denim.
Please see my extractions below:
1. What Is Raw Denim?
Also known as “dry denim” for its hard texture, according to Wikipedia, raw denim is “a denim fabric that is not washed after being dyed during its production”. In our words though…
Raw denim is denim that has been unwashed, untreated, and virtually untouched to the extent that it remains in its pure form.
We won’t dig too deep into the anatomy, but there are some notable differences to look for. From a higher-level, some of the primary details that you should make special note of:
Material: Raw denim jeans are typically (but not always) produced with 100% cotton and can be sourced from a number of countries. Some folks will argue that a particular country has the “best” cotton (in terms of durability, resulting denim fades, and worn feel) and some of the most popular sources include U.S.A., Zimbabwe, and Japan.
Weight: Ever notice how some raw denim feels really thick (and heavy) while others are much thinner (and lighter)? That’s precisely what is referred to as the denim weight – or, technically speaking, how much a yard of raw denim fabric weighs in ounces (Oz.). Putting aside the manufacturing process, the heavier the denim, the more rigid the garment (also due to starching) and more resistent it will be to abrade.
12 Oz. and Less: Considered light raw denim
12 Oz. – 16 Oz.: Considered mid-range weight and most common
16 Oz. and Up: Considered heavier
Fit: Similar to any pair of pants, raw denim jeans comes in a variety of styles, cuts, and fits. One key element to be cognizant of is whether or not your raw denim is non-sanforized or sanforized. If it is the former, then after your raw denim’s first soak/wash (see – Soaking Raw Denim: The Critical Preliminary Step and How To Clean and Wash Your Raw Denim), your denim can shrink significantly more (7% – 10%) compared to the latter (1% – 5%).
Other: There are many other details to pay attention to when browsing raw denim, from each and every rivet and button donut, to the selvedge and slubbiness.
2. When Did Raw Denim Come About?
The term “denim” originates from the French town, “de Nîmes”, where the fabric is said to have first been produced. As the fabric was tough and hard, it was nicknamed “serge de Nîmes” (serge being French for “sturdy”), but later just shortened to “denim”.
In terms of raw denim specifically, it is difficult to trace back the exact time of raw denim’s first emergence, but it was likely between the late 1800′s and mid-1900′s. At this point, raw denim was widely produced and worn on a larger scale in America by trades workers and miners – hence the vintage Americana appeal of some brands. It is worth noting that denim produced during this time was primarily, if not entirely, selvedge denim.
By the time the 1950s came about, WWII had ended and youth culture dominated. Denim became so popular that many American mills abandoned the slower shuttle looms to switch in faster, industrial machines with mass production capabilities.
What was done with the shuttle looms? Long story short, the U.S. helped rebuild many of Japan’s industries, such as the textile industry. Thus, Japan received many, many shuttle looms; kickstarting numerous denim mills, and leading to today’s “Japanese raw denim” craze.
A NOTE FROM MARBLES
This is the golden nugget, dear reader:
"Not once during the finishing process is the denim distressed or washed in any way. It is left in its most pure and rawest state, and will only deteriorate with the wearer’s personal use."
If nothing else I've quoted makes sense to you, the above quote from Coe's article should be enough to understand raw denim it its purist form (ha! I made a pun!).
Raw denim means that every individual pair of jeans wears in uniquely to its wearer. The wear-in process of raw denim, therefore, is taken very seriously by its owners. The number of times you wash your jeans affects the 'fade,' and it is recommended that you wait at least 6 months before the first wash.
(photo courtesy of Rawr Denim's Fade Friday- 12-14 months old, 2 soaks, 2 washes)