idealism-sits-in-prison:
I use stitch fiddle or chart minder (both are websites). There's also the Wooltasia app.
violetdale:
Also, you can google knitter's graph paper and print it out if you want to design with pencil and paper. There are also books of knitter's graph paper available to buy online. You can just colour your designs right in. Knitter's graph paper will give you a more accurate prediction of what your pattern will look like than regular square graph paper because the proportions are designed to mimic the knit stitch.
Ah, thank you for the tips on the actual writing of it, but I was looking more for resources that cover how to calculate sizes and how many stitches to CO or inc/dec throughout due to the tension for colorwork being different. Like, for a regular sweater for myself in Xweight, I CO Ysts, but would that number change for a colorwork sweater since the tension is different? That’s more what I’m trying to find resources talking about. I recently did those Stardew Valley Summer socks and had to restart them after my initial attempt because they were turning out way too small due to the tension. I’d hate to start a sweater with my usual, “fly by the seat of my pants, figure it out as I go” method of designing and end up with a sweater that doesn’t fit and have to start it all over again after getting, idk, 2/3 of the way through. But I’ll be checking these sites and such out when I get to the point where I’m writing down the pattern. I typically just use Excel for the actual graphing of things because I’m lazy. But having the names of a couple websites that also provide the charts is handy, too!
redportrait:
Stitchfiddle is good for designing, I'm using it right now. Re: tension, yes, it is different bc if you don't pay close attention when you're learning your stitches will be too tight--the floats at the back (the yarn you're carrying) don't stretch as much as knit fabric does. I space out my stitches right before changing colors, so that I know the floats are long enough to lie correctly. Not foolproof but much better than nothing. Idk what everyone else does[.] I'm sure there's better ways out there as well ! What are you searching for ? If "stranded colorwork" isn't turning anything up try "fair isle colorwork", that's the way I've heard it referred to most often.
Good to know Stitchfiddle has two endorsements now! I’ll definitely check it out. But I also have knit colorwork before, off of others’ designs, so I’ve already got that initial learning curve of, “oh, I need to space these stitches out.” Which was interesting, since one of my mundane magic powers is perfect tension (non-colorwork, I now have to specify)! That’s the tip that I came across multiple times when first learning: keep your right needle stitches all spread out as you go.
I also know that Fair Isle is one of a handful of different colorwork techniques that come from a specific region. I haven’t delved too deeply into the nuanced differences between those techniques, mostly because I haven’t knit any patterns specific to those regional designs and am not looking to make something specifically in any of those styles. I didn’t realize it’d be so difficult to find resources on just non-regional-specific colorwork!
violetdale:
Look up books by Alice Starmore and Mary Jane Mucklestone. They both have stitch dictionaries for designing your own fair isle pieces, that also include tips and instructions on colour work.
diddlysquash:
If you’re wanting colorwork hats or sweaters, tin can knits has an ebook called “strange brew” that has a lot of the math figured out for sizes from newborn up through a very size inclusive adult where you can plug in your own charts for fingering, DK, or worsted weight yarn. It was really helpful for me getting started. Otherwise, know that in colorwork your tension will differ more than usual between flat and in the round, so if you’re swatching try the speed search technique[.] Sorry, speed swatch technique. You knit across the row on a circular needle, but instead of joining in the round or doing a purl row you slide the work down the needle and then carry the yarn along the back. It’s way more accurate.
Ahh I will definitely check those authors out, thank you! That’s kind of what I was looking for after realizing most of the promising-looking online resources I did find were e-courses (at and least one in-person course) that are quite up there in price and/or not running anymore.
I did come across Tin Can Knits’ Strange Brew, but it seemed like it was just for seamless yoke, and the design I want to tackle first will have colorwork motifs down the body. But! I shall give them a look; TCK are solid and always worth checking out.
I also didn’t know about the speed swatch technique! I do prefer to knit my sweaters in the round (I think seaming might be my absolute LEAST favorite thing to do about knitting. So much so that I’ve been trying out ways to pick up sleeves instead of seaming them on because I hate doing it so much and feel like my sleeves always twist no matter what I do to prevent that), so having a swatch technique that replicates that so I can get more accurate tension would be fantastic. Thank you!
