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[hallsp]

Kurdish Iraq: Practical Advice

We advise against all travel to Iraq because of the extremely dangerous security situation and very high threat of terrorist attacks. If you’re currently in Iraq, we advise you to leave immediately.

This was the advice of the Irish Department of Foreign Affairs in July 2017. The Foreign & Commonwealth Office of the United Kingdom was more nuanced, advising against all travel to the Sunni Triangle in central Iraq, and against all but essential travel everywhere else, including Kurdistan.

This is good advice, if you’re being extremely cautious. In fact, though, Kurdish Iraq is very safe. There is the omnipresent danger of terrorist attack, of course, but this is more likely in London or Paris. The autonomous Kurdish region is heavily policed by peshmerga forces.

Currency

At the time of writing, €1 = 1,400 dinars (IQD). The currency exchange desk in Erbil International Airport (EIA) is unmanned, but you can change money at most of the other desks. There are money-changers by the dozen in Erbil itself, with a whole raft of them clumped together in a lane by the street-market opposite the Bakhi Shar garden.

Language

Erbil is known as Hawler in Kurdish, so it’s best to use this instead. You’ll see all sorts of spellings for As-Sulaymaniya, from Sulmani to Slimany. Often it’s just called Sulay.

Obviously I’d be circumspect about speaking Arabic in “Free Kurdistan.” About 1 in 4 people speak broken English, so you’ll need some basic Kurdish:

Min = Hello/Hi

Chooni? = How are you?

Spas = Thanks

Arrival

I flew into Erbil, as that’s the cheapest option; flying to As-Sulaymaniya is consistently more expensive. On arrival at Erbil International Airport (EIA) there’s no need to queue at the visa desk if you’re a citizen of the EU. Just go straight to passport control and you’ll receive a visa stamp for 30 days.

To get to the centre of Erbil take the free shuttle bus to the external terminal and grab a taxi outside, it should cost 20,000 dinars.

Accommodation

There are no hostels in Iraq, but there are budget hotels. Most of the budget hotels in Erbil are beside the bazaar, near Kirkuk Street. I had my own small room with en suite at the Lord City Hotel for 25,000 dinars per night. I heard that the Bikhal Hotel was cheaper. In Sulay, all the hotels are on Selim Street, or beside the bazaar on Mawlawi Street. I stayed at the Yalda Hotel for 25,000 a night, but got less bang for my buck: no en suite.

Food & Drink

Eating out in Erbil is relatively difficult. There are quite a few kebab places and one sit-down chicken restaurant in the bazaar but that’s about it. The bigger hotels, like the Sheraton, have really nice restaurants but they’re quite expensive. Do try the tea in Mam Khalil’s place in the bazaar, it’s been going since 1963. Sulay has much more to offer. It’s a really cool city, with lots of trendy cafés and restaurants. You can have your pick of anything there.

Water

I was warned not to drink tap water so I stuck with bottled water. However, I had several drinks with ice and never had a problem!

Getting Around

There are no buses or trains in Kurdish Iraq. The only way of getting around is by using shared taxis. It’s a simple system. If you’re in Erbil and you want to travel to Sulay, you must go the “Sulaymaniyah Garage” and climb into the next available taxi. The taxis queue up, with the first taxi waiting to fill up with four people before going, then on to the next. It’s 15,000 dinars from Erbil to Sulay, and from Erbil to Dohuk, and 5,000 dinars from Sulay to Halabja. The shared taxis are great for meeting locals, but it can also be quite uncomfortable in the heat.

Warning: In driving from Erbil to Dohuk, the taxi will take the road to Mosul. The taxi won’t go into Mosul itself but will drive through the outskirts. If you go this route you will also briefly leave the jurisdiction of the Kurdish Regional Government, and enter a zone jointly controlled by the Kurdish peshmerga and the Iraqi Army. You re-enter Kurdish Iraq after leaving Mosul. The exact same situation pertains in going from Erbil to Sulay. This time you take the road to Kirkuk. Again, the taxi will not go into Kirkuk but will pass through the outskirts. And again, you will temporarily leave Kurdish Iraq for Iraq proper. I took both these journeys, and it was completely safe.

[hallsp]

Dalkey and Environs

If you follow the swerve of shore south of Dublin city, you eventually wind up in Dalkey village, a small heritage town known largely for its three small castles and pretty main street, but also for its artisan shops, independent cafés, and popular pubs.

A sleepy suburb, the area is occasionally referred to as “the Beverley Hills of Dublin,” because of the number of celebrities living in the area — Bono! — Van Morrison! — or as “Ireland’s Bay of Naples,” because of the spectacular views, particularly from the top of nearby Killiney Hill. The village itself isn’t far from the border with Wicklow, a county known as “the Garden of Ireland.”

The town is heavily associated with writers. George Bernard Shaw was born in Torca Cottage; James Joyce taught in Clifton School, on Dalkey Avenue, and stayed in the nearby Martello Tower in Sandycove; Brendan Behan learned to mix explosives (chlorate of potash with paraffin wax and gelignite) in an IRA safe-house up the hill, now Fitzpatrick Castle. (In the 1950s, ownership of the Castle went to Seán Russell, then-IRA Chief-of-Staff. This is the same Seán Russell who died aboard a Nazi U-Boat in 1940.)

Hugh Leonard, known locally as Jack, was born in Dalkey; as was Maeve Binchy. The local pubs were once a playground for Samuel Beckett, and Flann O’Brien, who published The Dalkey Archive in 1964 — the story of a quirky scientist by the name of de Selby. Howard Marks, the famous drug-dealer (and author) hid out here in the 1970s, with crazy Jim McCann – another IRA connection. Salman Rushdie spent part of his decade in hiding, from the long reach of the Ayatollah Khomeini, living with Bono. Robert Fisk, the most eminent journalist of the Middle East, has had a home in the area for a number of years.

In fact, the history of writing in the village goes way back. In the late 18th century, a bunch of young wits and poets came together to take the absolute piss out of everything they could set their sights upon. They crowned a man named Stephen Armitage, who styled himself King of Dalkey, Emperor of the Muglins, Prince of the Holy Island of Magee, Baron of Bulloch, Seigneur of Sandycove, Defender of the Faith and Respector of All Others, Elector of Lambay and Ireland’s Eye, and Sovereign of the Most Illustrious Order of the Lobster and Periwinkle.

Thomas Moore, “the Bard of Ireland,” and author of the Minstrel Boy, among much else, was a willing subject of this petty kingdom. Moore’s friend, the poet Henrietta Battier, wrote a number of odes, including the line: “Hail, happy Dalkey! queen of isles, Where justice reigns in freedom’s smiles.” Then came the ’98 Rebellion. The Government moved to quell any expression of dissent. Thankfully, the tradition has been restored in our time: the sacristan of the local church, Fionn Gilmartin, currently occupies this exalted throne.

So august a reputation has Dalkey for all things literary, the inaugural Dalkey Book Festival was organised by the economist David McWilliams in 2010, and has since attracted hundreds of writers, including Seamus Heaney, John Banville, and Amos Oz. I saw Salman Rushdie speaking in St. Patrick’s Church in 2014.

The pubs and restaurants are also second-to-none. Finnegan’s is the best-known: great for a pint of Guinness. Try King’s Inn for the banter, the Magpie for craft beer, DeVille’s for steak, Queen’s for the beer garden, Benitos for the service, McDonagh’s for live music and pool, and the Vico for shots before hitting town against your better judgement. Further up the hill you have the aforementioned Fitzpatrick Castle Hotel, and the Druid’s Chair, a gem of a little spot.

Close to Dalkey, along the coast back towards Dublin, you’ll find Dun Laoghaire. It’s got three sailing clubs, two piers, and one impressive library. You can walk along the promenade, the piers, or go for a swim on Sandycove beach, or in the 40 Foot bathing-place. Make sure you get yourself a 99 from Teddy’s, the ice-cream is famous all over Ireland. There’s also one or two decent pubs, particularly the Whiskey Fair and Gilbert & Wright’s. Like it or loath it, Wetherspoons have taken over the 40 Foot pub, which means cheap booze.

The Martello Tower, now the James Joyce Museum, was once rented by the writer (and doctor) Oliver St. John Gogarty. Joyce, having stayed with his friend for six nights in 1904, eventually used the experience in the opening pages of his masterpiece, Ulysses.

Dun Laoghaire was once known as Kingstown, so-named in 1821 after the visit of boozy King George IV, the first reigning monarch to visit Ireland since the Battle of the Boyne in 1690. In Howth, just north of Dublin, the king disembarked from his yacht on his birthday, already “in high spirits,” meaning inebriated, and you can still see his tiny footprints, preserved for all eternity. He departed from Dun Laoghaire eighteen days later. In fact, a nearby memorial marks this auspicious stop-over. William Mackepeace Thackeray, the famous English novelist, described it as a “hideous obelisk, stuck upon four fat balls.” That’s a fairly good description.

The best way to get to Dalkey and Dun Laoghaire is to use the DART (Dublin Area Rapid Transit), though there’s nothing “rapid” about it. Actually, the train journey from Dublin to Dun Laoghaire is the oldest in Ireland, built in 1834. It was used by Thackeray in 1842, Carlysle in 1849, and Dickens in 1867. In 1882, having arrived by boat into Dun Laoghaire, Lord Cavendish, the newly-appointed Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, took this train into the city on his first day on the job, only to be murdered that evening in the Phoenix Park. The park is somewhat safer these days.

The train was slowly extended around the rest of the coast over the coming years. There are stunning views of the sea between Dalkey and Greystones, where the track tunnels through solid rock and clings to precarious sea cliffs. It was designed by famous engineer Isambard Kingdom Brunel.

[darkhorseva]

It's Tell Us Tuesday (part 2) with Jane Steffen of our upcoming August and September production of Jean-Paul Sartre's masterpiece "No Exit". Our roving reporter caught up with her and here is what she had to say! RR: Will you tell us a bit about what the rehearsal process is like? JS: We spend a lot of time on character work and going through the dialogue, imagining different scenarios that may not be given in the script, and building our back stories. It's all very good and makes sure that we are on the same page about what we are doing. The director sets the tone of the rehearsal and Natasha is very involved. She makes sure that we are using our brains. RR: What is your favorite part about performing? JS: My favorite part about performing is the freedom. When you know your part backwards and forwards, when you have put in all the time and work, by the time you are at performance you just get to let it fly. It is extremely liberating and like being hyper-alive. RR: How about your least favorite part? JS: My least favorite part about performing is the flip-side of that, when for whatever reason you get pulled out of it and all of a sudden become painfully aware that you are an actor on a stage in front of an audience and what is happening at the moment is insane. I'd like to say that I'm so focused that never happens to me, but it does, and I've found the best thing to do is just realize it, accept it and hop right back into the action. RR: What advice do you have for up and coming actors? JS: For anyone starting out I'd say to not worry about what anyone else is doing. If someone seems light years ahead of you, maybe they are, who cares?, you can always get better. Just open your mouth and tell the truth. If you believe it, so will they. Oh, and calm down at auditions. Remember, everyone you are auditioning for wants you to be awesome. They are all rooting for you. RR: Why should we come see "No Exit"? JS: People should come and see "No Exit" because it is a play that makes you consider how honest you are with yourself. Are you a villian? Are you a victim? Is there always a difference? #darkhorseva #dctheatre #tellustuesday #tuesday #rovingreporter #dc https://www.instagram.com/p/B0l_uTXBVKD/?igshid=1h2hpv1lyir2r

[darkhorseva]

It's Tell Us Tuesday (part 2) with Jane Steffen of our upcoming August and September production of Jean-Paul Sartre's masterpiece "No Exit". Our roving reporter caught up with her and here is what she had to say! RR: Will you tell us a bit about what the rehearsal process is like? JS: We spend a lot of time on character work and going through the dialogue, imagining different scenarios that may not be given in the script, and building our back stories. It's all very good and makes sure that we are on the same page about what we are doing. The director sets the tone of the rehearsal and Natasha is very involved. She makes sure that we are using our brains. RR: What is your favorite part about performing? JS: My favorite part about performing is the freedom. When you know your part backwards and forwards, when you have put in all the time and work, by the time you are at performance you just get to let it fly. It is extremely liberating and like being hyper-alive. RR: How about your least favorite part? JS: My least favorite part about performing is the flip-side of that, when for whatever reason you get pulled out of it and all of a sudden become painfully aware that you are an actor on a stage in front of an audience and what is happening at the moment is insane. I'd like to say that I'm so focused that never happens to me, but it does, and I've found the best thing to do is just realize it, accept it and hop right back into the action. RR: What advice do you have for up and coming actors? JS: For anyone starting out I'd say to not worry about what anyone else is doing. If someone seems light years ahead of you, maybe they are, who cares?, you can always get better. Just open your mouth and tell the truth. If you believe it, so will they. Oh, and calm down at auditions. Remember, everyone you are auditioning for wants you to be awesome. They are all rooting for you. RR: Why should we come see "No Exit"? JS: People should come and see "No Exit" because it is a play that makes you consider how honest you are with yourself. Are you a villian? Are you a victim? Is there always a difference? #darkhorseva #dctheatre #tellustuesday #tuesday #rovingreporter #dcarts https://www.instagram.com/p/B0l_di4B6UB/?igshid=1ft07qpqq46rb

[darkhorseva]

It's Tell Us Tuesday with Calamity Improv's own Outlaw, Judi Laganga. Our roving reporter caught up with her and here is what she had to say! RR: What inscription do you want on your gravestone?   JL: See y’all on the other side RR: Choose a movie title for the story of your life. JL: “Now What?” RR:  At which store would you like to max-out your credit card? JL:  Bed, Bath & Beyond RR: Which storybook/cartoon character turns you on the most?  JL: Any female villain - I always want to “play” them  RR: How old is the oldest pair of shoes in your closet?  JL: 14 years old RR:  Can you play any instruments?  JL: Not a one!   I played clarinet in Elementary School - but not very well RR: What is the oldest thing in your refrigerator?  JL: Apple Butter RR:  What’s the strangest talent you have? JL:  I can wiggle my ears (?) is that strange? Can’t everyone do that? RR: What was your childhood nickname?  JL: Bug RR: Kill, Shag or Marry Mel Gibson, Zac Efron, Carrot Top: JL: Mel Gibson – shag, Zac Efron - too young! Carrot Top - Kill #darkhorseva #calamityimprov #zacefron #bug #rovingreporter #tellusyourstory #tellustuesday #tuesday #itsjudi #ouroutlaw #apple #butter #14years #villian #bedbathandbeyond #ears #clarinet #school #nowwhat #carrottop #tombstone https://www.instagram.com/p/BzI1OvtBRgY/?igshid=5l1ke6tjb8h5

[darkhorseva]

It's Tell Us Tuesday (part 1) with Jane Steffen of our upcoming August and September production of Jean-Paul Sartre's masterpiece "No Exit". Our roving reporter caught up with her and here is what she had to say! RR: Tell us about your theatre background. JS: My family had always been involved in community theatre. My Grandmother was a director, my parents met during a show and all of my siblings have been in countless productions. I went to Carver Center for the Arts in Baltimore, MD. I also studied at the T. Schreiber Studio and the Stella Adler Conservatory in NYC. Some of my favorite roles have been Catherine in Proof, Rizzo in Grease, Nurse Ratched in One Flew over the Cuckoo's nest,and the titular role in Antigone. My last role before a 10 year theatre hiatus was Conchita in Anna in the Tropics, which I won best supporting actress on Broadwayworld.com. I was last seen as Sarah Goodwin in Reston Community Player's production of Time Stands Still. RR: Tell us a little about the show. JS: No Exit is a show that every theatre person knows, although they may not have ever seen a production of it. I haven't. I came across it at some point in my 20's while looking for good audition material. Once I read it, I realized how good of a play it was. It is timeless and the characters all have so many layers, there is literally something new being revealed every few moments, it is exciting and challenging to have the opportunity to bring it to life. RR: You're playing "Inez" in the show. Will you tell us about her? JS: Inez just wants what is hers. Even when alive, she was already a little dead inside, so she needs a little extra to keep her going. And she'll go ahead and take it. Part 2 to come!! #darkhorseva #dctheatre #tellustuesday #tuesday #rovingreporter #fauquier #fauquiercounty #theatre #arts #artists #virginia #interview #itsjane #inez #jeanpaulsartre #sartre #noexit #exit #existential #existentialism #exist #hell #hellisotherpeople #annainthetropics #broadwayworld #stellaadler #stella #actor #actress #drama #darkcomedy #timestandsstill #reston #restonva #restoncommunityplayers #maryland https://www.instagram.com/p/By3yQgaBBMP/?igshid=aoviglyxdv46

[darkhorseva]

It's tell us about you Tuesday! This week our roving reporter caught up with Jessie Burns of "The Calamity Improv Group" and owner of @soupedupvirginia Here's what she had to say! RR: Tell us about your improv background. JB:  I have no improv background. I’ve never set foot on a stage before joining The Calamity. But, I lived in Chicago throughout my 20’s and went to Second City and Improv Olympic as often as I could. At that time I never imagined I’d be doing this 15 years later!  RR: Why did you decide to join The Calamity?  JB:  I saw the audition call on Facebook and I said why not. I didn’t tell a single soul I was auditioning because I didn’t want to psych myself out.  RR: What makes The Calamity special? JB: Our diverse crew makes us so fun to see and work with. We all have such different life experience and it really makes our shows unique and unexpected.  RR: Tell us about what you do in rehearsals. JB: I try to focus on listening to my cast mates. I’m amazed every week at how much I learn and grow. RR: Do you have any favorite improv games? If so, what are they and why? JB: Newscast! I just love the way we all dive into the ridiculous news topics. I feel like it almost always turns out funny. I think it’s our best game. I also love scenes from a hat (we call it Firing Line)…even though it’s not my strongest game. It’s always funny to see what we come up with.  RR: What are some struggles in building an improv group? JB:  It takes some time to figure out everyones strong suits and learning to trust each other and know that even when/if we fall flat we still have each others backs.  RR: What unique qualities do you contribute to The Calamity? JB: Oh boy…that’s a tough one. I think I’m a good support character. I’m not usually the lead funny man. And I’m ok with that since this is so out of my comfort zone. But those moments when I shine sure feel exhilarating!  RR: What is some advice you have for new improvisers? JB: You have to be ok with falling on your face. You’re never going to be perfect and that’s the beauty of it. Don’t be afraid to just go out on a limb. #itsjessie #darkhorseva #tellusaboutyoutuesday #interview #rovingreporter #tuay https://www.instagram.com/darkhorseva/p/BsYKdFyh7Rc/?utm_source=ig_tumblr_share&igshid=s7goobsushkj

[darkhorseva]

It's time for "Tell Us About You Tuesday" at DHTC. Our roving reporter caught up with Calamity cast member, Star Bobatoon. Here's what she had to say: RR: Thanks for meeting with me, Star. Tell us about your improv background.  SB: I took a few classes.  As a professional speaker/trainer, I improv whenever I'm on stage.  But I admit, this is different. RR: Why did you decide to join The Calamity? SB: I thought joining an improv group would make me a better speaker/trainer and actress.   RR: What makes The Calamity special? SB: The diversity of talents, background, and experiences. RR: I couldn't agree more! Tell us about what you do in rehearsals. SB: We play games, get to know each other and get better.  Mostly we play games.  It's an adult play date.  RR: That sounds like a lot of fun. Do you have any favorite improv games? SB: Newscaster, Typewriter, Story Song. RR: What are some struggles in building an improv group? SB: Learning to listen while playing. RR: That seems like a lot of multitasking. What unique qualities do you contribute to The Calamity?  SB: Enthusiasm and cuteness. RR: Ha! What is some advice you have for new improvisers?  SB: Keep playing, listening and learning. RR: Inquiring minds want to know...What is your secret talent?  SB: I'm really good a building legos. RR: When do you feel most alive onstage?  SB: There are times when we are all in alignment and feed off each other in amazing ways.  That's my favorite. RR: What a cool moment. Who is your comedy hero or heroine?  SB: Tina Fey RR: Thanks again for answering all these questions! The last one I have for you is: If you could be any animal, what would you be and why? SB: A dog, Golden Retriever specifically because they are so loving.  And who doesn't like affection.  #darkhorseva #calamityimprov #itsstar #rovingreporter #tellusaboutyoutuesday #virginia #northernvirginia #fauquier #fauquiercounty #art #improv #legos #goldenretriever #stage #team #listen #look #cutenessoverload https://www.instagram.com/darkhorseva/p/BqbP3X1h24y/?utm_source=ig_tumblr_share&igshid=jie49rff9vai