Building Eliza’s Gown Part 2 - The Bodice
To build all of the Schuyler Sister’s bodices, @spockspeak, @cousincecily and I all used a modified version of Simplicity 4092, but used my construction method instead of the pattern instructions. Each of us had slightly different closure methods because each bodice has different lines. This was mine. For photos, see Spockspeak’s blog section on Angelica Schuyler.
First, comes the mockup, fitted over my corset. I know I’m not wearing period correct stays, but we didn’t have time for everyone to construct stays and we all had corsets. I focused on the sides and back of the mockup, and adjusted the armscye to allow a better range of motion (Work!!).
Once happy with the basic fit, then come the layers, 3-4 layers depending on the piece. We wanted the smooth, boned look of the costume, but we didn’t want the boning to show. The Stomacher front piece, with the most boning has: 1. Lining 2. Canvas/Duck/Coutil 3. Flannel 4. Fashion Fabric
The body of the bodice is three layers: 1. Lining 2. Flannel 3. Fashion Fabric. Separate boning channels were added to seam allowances later in construction.
The front section is the most heavily boned, and the number of bones required depends on your measurements. I used flat steel bones throughout the bodice. You can see the seam allowances marked as well as my stitch guides for channels, down center front as well as the angled sides.
Once the Center Front was taken care of, I constructed the rest of the bodice body in two pieces. The Fashion Fabric layer was stitched and ironed. I flatlined the flannel with the lining, stitched that layer together, pressed all the seams, then added additional boning channels for garment support. Finally, those two completed layers were stacked, the center front piece attached, and the whole bodice was finished off with a bias binding made of the Fashion Fabric. Why did I do it this way? I felt by having the Fashion Fabric as a separate layer, the seams would iron extra flat and wouldn’t show the bulk of the layers. Why flannel? That soft texture hides the boning lines underneath and gives the thin taffeta something smooth to rest on.
Using bias binding to finish the edges is a great way to finish bodices and you can find many extant examples in historical garments. Stitch as normal with your 1/2″ or 5/8″ seam allowance, clip/trim/grade as needed then turn everything inside, press and hand stitch the binding down. You have a finished edge and still have access to your seams if you need to adjust anything down the line.
Sleeves are constructed of a Fashion and Lining layer. I built the sleeve flounce since I couldn’t find trim wide enough on it’s own. The covered buttons are a Flannel and Fashion layer, so that the smooth texture matches the rest of the bodice, mock mounted on the front. I didn’t actually put button holes in that bodice. The whole bodice closes with a lot of hooks and eyes at side front.
Hope this helps anyone struggling with the build.
