Napoli, phase 2. After the underground city (so so so worth your time and money, pay the extra euro for the guided tour), we grabbed gelato. Did you know they make a limoncello flavor? Limoncello is one of the, like, two cocktails you can find anywhere in Italy. (What's up with that, Italy?) So you get a little booze with your gelato. That's me eating booze gelato with #Pulcinella. Then we browsed what I can only describe as #XmasStreet. It's stall after stall of Christmas ornaments and nativity scenes and other miniatures, and painted tambourines, and lots and lots of tiny things. Camille asked for and received one of the tambourines, and then played it and improvised a song because that is how she is wired. Then we saw #VeiledChrist. It's as amazing as you could imagine, in a smallish church full of equally astonishing feats of artistry. Also there are two dead bodies downstairs. Don't miss 'em! Next, a trek to the (consensus?) world's first pizzeria! I kind of expected a historical-looking thing that no longer served food. Nope! It's just a pizza place. Guess there had to be a first one. But it serves food, so we ate there. The spaghetti frutta di mare was delish. #EssieHerself got brave and ordered fresh pineapple on the side. Camille woke up from a nap and cried while she sat on my lap and I fed her plain spaghetti. Can't win 'em all. Also, we actually sat outside and down the street from the actual restaurant, which was virtually empty, I discovered. (Shrugs.) On the way back to our flat, we got Nutella and Kinder crepes, and the kids got to watch the guy make them on the street. The looks on their faces--desire and longing--would be perfect on a church fresco somewhere. #CousinBrady is watching the crepe-making, kinda, and being a liiiittle too cool, but mostly just sleepy. It is *weird* how much he looks like his dad. It's like having @n_colanero there, but via a time machine that also makes people nicer and more helpful (No offense, big bro, I just like your kid better. He hasn't punched me even once! #youngerbrothers ) (at Naples, Italy)