A Guide to Mid-Victorian Grand Period Jewelry
What was the great moment?
Prince Albert of Great Britain died in 1861 and the American Civil War began. The two incidents brutally interrupted the strange romanticism of the early Victorian period. Thus began the Great Period (1861-1885) of the Victorian era.
Although death and war maintained the Victorian desire for keepsake jewelry, new developments and ideas also influenced jewelry of the great times. In 1879, the light bulb literally placed the jewels in a completely different light. Diamonds sparkled with electricity. The discovery of a diamond mine in South Africa in 1867 had generated a high demand for precious stones. The great moment also opened doors socially for women. While men were called to war, women occupied their remaining jobs.
Queen Victoria mourned her husband until his death in 1901. This set the tone for the manufacture of jewelry from the great times. However, his subjects fell into the dense darkness. In 1885 they finally turned to the lighter jewelry and clothing styles of the late Victorian aesthetic.
Remarkable features of contemporary jewelry.
The massive and heavy jewelry reflected the opulence of the time when the industry flourished and created millionaires overnight.
Jewelry makers enthusiastically used silver after its discovery in Nevada in 1860.
The jewels of the great times often contained gems in a hammer or gypsy decoration. The gems were almost embedded in the coins, with small spikes holding them in place. Another popular Pavé configuration included stones with nearly invisible teeth, from which "paved" gemstones were created.
The pens now included a lever lock on the "C" lock to improve security.
Etruscan alarm bracelet - vintage jewelry
This Etruscan Renaissance bracelet underscores the fine graining technique that was prevalent at the time, as well as the theme of bold opulence. The cabochon cut turquoise set with pavé adorns the bracelet in 18-carat yellow gold. The weight and knowledge of this piece are exceptional properties. Photo © and courtesy of the Three Graces.
The metals commonly used at this time include low carbon gold (9,000, 12,000, and 15,000); Laminated gold; Silver; and steel.
The popular motifs were: acorns, bees, bells, birds, crescents, crosses, daisies, hearts, monograms, stars, and shield shapes. Geometric patterns were common. The enamel remained popular.
Archaeological excavations continued during this time and aroused great public curiosity. Therefore, ancient Greek, Roman, and Egyptian designs continued to be popular and inspired by the use of cameos. Excavations of ancient Etruscan cities in Italy have revived Etruscan jewelry creations. In particular, an old metal technology with fine pearl granulation was revived.
Precious stones and cut styles that are popular with vintage jewelry.
The popular stones are: amethyst, diamond, garnet, jet, onyx, opal, pearl, ruby, sapphire, and turquoise. Anthrax, or cabochon cut grenades, often appeared on pendants, brooches, and necklaces.
Materials such as swamp oak, coral, ivory, and tortoiseshell were also used as gemstones.
Goldstone, a glass gemstone simulator, was widely used.
Gemstone cut styles include:
Pink cut: round shape with a curved top and flat bottom.
Old mine cut: rounded square shapes with many facets. Very similar to today's modern, shiny round cut.
Cabochon: rounded top and flat bottom.
Whit by Jet ring - vintage jewelry
This bold, dark ring, typical of great time jewelry, is made entirely of jet or petrified (charcoal) wood from Whit by, England. Due to its black color, the spray is often found in funeral jewelry. This ring is decorated with a 0.65 ct antique cut diamond in a rose gold setting. The large diamond and jet details make it a find. Photo © and courtesy of the Three Graces.
What were the most popular items in vintage jewelry?
Earrings of all sizes were popular. During this time, pending e-mails were introduced.
Jewelers sometimes incorporate smaller gems in the center of the cabochons.
For example, this locket features an amethyst made of a 0.25 ct cabochon, which was cut with a star burst of eighteen rose cut diamonds around a central and antique diamond with a total weight of 0.37 ct. The blue pearls reflect the Etruscan revival. This piece has a considerable amount of precious stones and exquisite craftsmanship. The combination makes this medallion a rare find.
Medallion with cabin and inlaid gems - vintage jewelry
Locket with cabochon and integrated gemstones. Photo © and courtesy of the Three Graces.
This medallion consists of two stone discs and transparent quartz, structured in 15 carat yellow gold. With the name of a loved one and the date of death engraved on the front, this coin illustrates popular commemorative jewelry from this period. The excellent condition and engraving of the medallion make it valuable.
Commemorative medallion - decoration of time
Commemorative Medallion. Photo © and courtesy of the Three Graces.
These pieces made in Florence, Rome and Venice have brought together small gems and glass tiles (Tesserae) to create artistic designs.
For example, this micro mosaic brooch features an Egyptian scarab made entirely of small glass panels. A 15-carat yellow gold setting houses the micro mosaic. The degree of approximation of the mosaics and the absence of chips or cracks determine the value of the micro mosaics.
Micro Mosaic Brooch - Vintage Jewelry
Micro mosaic brooch. Photo © and courtesy of the Three Graces.
Popular styles include: buckle bracelets; Wide mesh bracelets with enamel and foxtail; and wide bracelets.
For example, the large bracelet below is a great example of the great jewelry style of the time. Silver inlaid with gold, the bracelet has tassels and leaves as motifs. This extensive piece is in excellent condition.
