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Domaine Pallus Chinon
A few weeks back, our weekly tasting took us to the Loire Valley to explore the red grape of the region, Cabernet Franc. "Cab Franc" is one of the most important red grapes in the world (that's actually more like a black grape) and plays the role of blending partner in Bordeaux or a charming soloist in the France's Loire Valley. The impetus was a new Chinon producer that has just come along by-the-glass, Domaine Pallus.
Check out Chinon; right in the center of things
Chinon is right in the center of the Loire, situated along the Vienne River. The vineyards are planted along the river banks and over time have carved out many caves that are now the beloved cellars of the region. The runoff over time has also contributed to the region's characteristic limestone and sandy soil.
Bertrand Sordais is a 35-year old native of Chinon. He is also the winemaker for Domaine Pallus, taking over for his father in 2003, for an estate that had been founded 120 years ealier. His resume is varied and sparkly, having worked at some of the finest estates in Bordeaux, Chile and Spain. Les Pensées, the bottling we're currently pouring, is a precise example of Chinon. It a brilliant red hue with unadulterated raspberry fruit that perfectly suit its vibrant color. The fruit comes from 30-year old vines in Cravant-les-Coteaux, just east of the center of Chinon. The soils here vary, but are some combination of clay, limestone and sand. According to Bertrand, who farms naturally, the limestone clay is for aromatics, the heavier clay for structure and the sand for finesse.
*Richard Kelley has a fantastic map and reference site for the vineyards of Chinon. Click Here.
Pallus spends 18 months in second use barrels from Haut Brion, the famed First Growth house in Bordeaux. Returning to his family's estate, Bertrand has managed to capture to the spirit of Chinon in the way that only a multi-generation grower from the region could. Though he made a name for himself in Spain, it is clear this mans soul lives in Loire.