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Basic Dye/Cationic Dyes | Properties of Basic Dyes | Dyeing of Acrylic with Basic Dyes

Basic Dye

Basic dyes, these dyes are also known as cationic dyes.This a class of synthetic dyes , that act as bases and when made soluble in water , they form a colored cationic salt , which can react with the anionic sites on the surface of the substrate. The basic dyes produce bright shades with high tinctorial values, on textile materials. Properties of Basic Dyes Basic Dyes are cationic soluble salts of coloured bases. Basic dyes are applied to substrate with anionic character where electrostatic attractions are formed. Basic dyes are not used on cotton as the structures are neither planar nor large enough for sufficient substantivity or affinity. Basic dyes are called cationic dyes because the chromophore in basic dye molecules contains a positive charge. The basic dyes react on the basic side of the isoelectric points. Basic dyes are salts, usually chlorides, in which the dyestuff is the basic or positive radical. Basic dyes are powerful colouring agents.It’s applied to wool, silk, cotton and modified acrylic fibres. Usually acetic acid is added to the dyebath to help the take up of the dye onto the fibre. Basic dyes are also used in the coloration of paper. Ionic nature:-The ionic nature of these dyes is cationic. Shade range:-These dyes exhibit an unlimited shade range with high tinctorial strength, brightness and many colors are having fluorescent properties. Solubility:-The solubility of these dyes is very good in water ,in the presence of glacial acetic acid. Leveling properties:- These dyes have a very high strike rate , therefore leveling is poor. Exhaustion :- cationic dyes exhaust at a variable rates, K values are used to define the exhaustion characteristics of the cationic dyes. K=1 means the fastest exhaustion , while K=5 means the slowest exhaustion. So while making the combination shades the dyes of similar K values must be used. Affinity:- These dyes shows a very affinity towards wool , silk and cationic dye able acrylic, but have no affinity towards cellulosics. To dye cellulosics with basic dyes the material must be treated with suitable mordanting agents. Fastness Properties:- The light fastness is poor to moderate , but wet fastness is good. Dyeing of Acrylic with Basic Dyes The most common anionic group attached to acrylic polymers is the sulphonate group, -SO3-, closely followed by the carboxylate group, -CO2-. These are either introduced as a result of co-polymerisation, or as the residues of anionic polymerisation inhibitors. It is this anionic property which makes acrylics suitable for dyeing with cationic dyes, since there will be a strong ionic interaction between dye and polymer (in effect, the opposite of the acid dye-protein fibre interaction). Advantages of Basic Dyes •High Tinctorial strength •Moderate substantivity •Relatively economical •Wide shade range •Includes some of the most brilliant synthetic dyes •Shows good brightness Limitations of Basic Dyes *Poor shade stability *High acid content *Coloured backwaters *Very poor lightfastness *Preferential dyeing Modified Basic Dyes These dyes, generally based on the chemistry of basic dyes, have longer molecular structures than traditional basic dyes, and thus have significantly improved properties. Though still cationic in nature, modified basic dyes exhibit improved fibre coverage and substantivity on many furnishes,making them ideal for dyeing applications. Lightfastness is also improved considerably over traditional basic dye. Key advantages over conventional basic dyes:- •Excellent substantivity •Better Lightfastness •Covers all fibres •Clear backwaters

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What is Serviceability? | Factors of Serviceability

Serviceability Serviceability is a relative term which is serviceable of performing useful service.A garment is considered to be serviceable when it is fit for its particular end use. After being used for a certain length of time the garment ceases to be serviceable when it can no longer fill its intended purpose in the way that it did when it was new. The particular factors that reduce the service life of a garment are heavily dependent on its end use. For instance overalls worn to protect clothing at work would be required to withstand a good deal of hard usage during their lifetime but their appearance would not be considered important. However, garments worn purely for their fashionable appearance are not required to be hard wearing but would be speedily discarded if their appearance changed noticeably. An exception to this generalisation is found in the case of denim where a worn appearance is deliberately strived for.

 Factors of Serviceability:

If asked, many people would equate the ability of a fabric to 'wear well' with its abrasion resistance, but 'wear', that is the reduction in serviceable life, is a complex phenomenon and can be brought about by any of the following factors:

1. Changes in fashion which mean that the garment is no longer worn whatever its physical state. 2. Shrinkage or other dimensional changes of such a magnitude that the garment will no longer fit. 3. Changes in the surface appearance of the fabric which include: the formation of shiny areas by rubbing, the formation of pills or surface fuzz, the pulling out of threads in the form of snags. 4. Fading of the colour of the garment through washing or exposure to light. The bleeding of the colour from one area to another. 5. Failure of the seams of the garment by breaking of the sewing thread or by seam slippage. 6. Wearing of the fabric into holes or wearing away of the surface finish or pile to leave the fabric threadbare. Wearing of the edges of cuffs, collars and other folded edges to give a frayed appearance. 7. Tearing of the fabric through being snagged by a sharp object.

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Garment Dyeing | How to Garment Dyeing? | Why Garment Dyeing? | Garment Dyeing Machines

Garment Dyeing

Garment dyeing is the process of dyeing fully fashioned garments (such as pants, pullovers, t-shirts, jeans, sweaters, dresses, bathrobes, casual jackets, shirts, skirts, hosieries) subsequent to manufacturing, as opposed to the conventional method of manufacturing garments from pre-dyed fabrics. Most garments are made of cotton knit goods and/or cotton woven fabrics. Although several other fabrics can be found in the whole or in part such as wool, nylon, silk, acrylic, polyester and others. Due to cost savings and fashion trends, garment dyeing has been gaining importance and popularity in the past years and will continue to do so in the future. Why Garment Dyeing? Traditionally, garments are constructed from fabrics that are pre-dyed (piece dyed) before the actual cutting and sewing. The advantage of this process is the cost effectiveness of mass producing identical garments of particular colors. A major drawback with this approach is the risk associated with carrying a large inventory of a particular style or color in today's dynamic market. Garment Dyeing Machines Paddle machines and rotary drums are the two types of equipment regularly used for garment dyeing. Rotary drum machines are sometimes preferred for garments, which require gentler handling, such as sweaters. A high liquor ratio is required for paddle machines, which is less economical and may limit shade reproducibility. Many machinery companies have developed sophisticated rotary dyeing machines, which incorporate state-of-the-art technology. Following machines are generally used for garment dyeing

 Garment Dyeing Machines

1.Paddle Dyeing Machines A process of dyeing textiles in a machine that gently move the goods using paddles similar to a paddle wheel on a boat. This is a slow process, but there is extremely little abrasion on the goods. Horizontal Paddle Machines (over head paddle machine) consist of a curved beck like lower suction to contain the materials and the dye liquor. The goods are moved by a rotating paddle, which extends across the width of the machine. Half immersed paddles cause the material to move upwards and downwards through out the liquor. The temperature can be raised to 98o C in such system. In lateral / oval paddle machines consist of oval tank to enhance the fluid flow and the processing the goods. In the middle of this tank is a closed oval island. The paddle moves in a lateral direction and is not half submerged in the liquor and the temperature can be increased up to 98o C. HT Paddle Machines work according to the principle of horizontal paddle machine, however, the temperature can be raised up to 140o C. PES articles are preferably dyed on HT paddles. In paddle machines, the dyeing can be carried out with 30:1 to 40:1, lower ratios reduces optimum movement of the goods, lead to unlevel dyeing, crease formation. For gentleness, the blades of the paddle are either curved or have rounded edges and the rotating speed of the paddle can be regulated from 1.5 to 40 rpm. Circulation of the liquor should be strong enough to prevent goods from sinking to the bottom. Paddle machines are suitable for dyeing articles of all substrates in all forms of make ups. The goods are normally dyed using PP/PET bags. 2.Rotary Drum Dyeing Machines These machines work on the principle of “movement of textile material and a stationary liquor”.The rotary drum dyeing machine consists of rotating perforated cylindrical drum , which rotates slowly inside a vessel of slightly bigger in size. The internal drum is divided into compartments to ensure rotation of goods with the drum rotation, and the outer vessel holds the required quantity of dye liquor. High temperature drum machines are capable of processing the garments up to 140o C. Features of modern rotary-dyeing equipment include the following: 1. lower liquor ratio 2. gentle movement of goods and liquor (minimizes surface abrasion) 3. rapid heating and cooling 4. centrifugal extraction 5. variable drum speed with reversal capability (adaptable to a wide variety of goods) 6. continuous circulation of goods (improves migration control) 7. easy of sampling 8. variable water levels with overflow rinsing capabilities 9. large diameter feed and discharge lines (minimizes filling and draining time) 10. microprocessor controls 11. lint filters 12. pressure dyeing 13. auto-balancing drums One feature that can be used to reduce abrasion on delicate garments or to minimize tangling is a compartmental chamber, sometimes referred to as a "Y" pocke .The rotary drum machines are very simple to operate and are quite compact in size. The cost of unit is also not high . Drum dyeing-centrifuging machines are also called “multipurpose drum machines” or “multi-rapid dyeing centrifuging machines” since these machines can perform scouring, dyeing, centrifuging and conditioning successively with automated controls. The goods are treated in a perforated inner drum housed within an outer drum (dyeing tank). Inner drums without dividing walls are provided with ribs that carry the goods along for a certain time, partially lifting them up out of the liquor. These machines can operate at very low liquor ratios and can dye the goods up to 98 -140o C. This is suitable for knits as well as other garments. Liquor circulation can be intensified using additional jets. Drums can be rotated in both the directions. 3. Tumbler Dyeing Machines These machines are being used for small garments either in loose form or in open mesh bags. Design wise the tumbler dyeing machines are similar to the commercial laundering machines. The principle of operation is to load the material into perforated inner SS tanks , which rotates round a horizontal shaft fixed at the back of the drum. The drum is divided into compartments for moving the goods with rotation of drum. A variety of tumbling machines have higher rotation speeds and can spin dry at the end of the cycle. These are similar to dry-cleaning machines. Rotating drum machines are more efficient and cleaner to operate than paddle machines. The more vigorous mechanical action often promotes more shrinkage and bulking, which may be desirable for some articles. In order to handle higher quantities and large production of similar pieces the latest machines are provided with several automatic features and sophistication.

4.Toroid Dyeing Machines

Toroid Dyeing Machines

In these machines the garments circulate in the liquor in a toroidal path with the aid of an impeller situated below the perforated false bottom of the vessel. Movement of the goods depends completely on the pumped action of the liquor. High-temperature versions of this machine operating at 120 to 130°C were developed in the 1970s for dyeing fully-fashioned polyester or triacetate garments. The liquor ratio of such machines is about 30:1. 5.The Gyrobox The machine has support in the form of a large wheel, which is divided into 12 independent non radial compartments. The goods are placed in these compartments .The wheel runs at a moderate speed of 2-6 rpm.The main advantage of this machine are, 1.Reduced M:L 2.Different types of garments can be dyed simulteneously . 3.Flexible loading 4.Fully automatic operation. 6.The MCS Readymade garment dyeing machine The rotodye machines are suitable for dyeing pure cotton,wool,polyester,cotton blends in the form of T shirts, sweaters, bath rugs and accessories , socks and stockings.

6.Modified Pegg Toroid Whiteley Garment Dyeing Machine This is an improved version of Toroid machines , the additional features are 1.The machine is suitable for both atmospheric and pressure dyeing. 2.Full automation upto hydroextraction. 3.The design features,speed and performance is simplified to make the machine more versatile and free from operating problems. Advantages of Garment Dyeing

Handling of smaller lots economically

Enables various special effects to achieved

Distressed look can be effectively imparted

Unsold light shades can be converted into medium and deep shades

By the time the garment has been in a boiling dyebath and then tumble-dried, it will have adopted its lowest energy state and will not suffer further shrinkage under consumer washing conditions Latest fashion trends can be effectively incorporated through garment wet processing by immediate feedback from the customer Disadvantages of Garment Dyeing

High cost of processing

A little complicated dyeing

Garment accessories like zips, buttons, etc impose restrictions. The garments produced from woven fabrics create many problems and it has been found that the existing textile treatment styles as developed for piece dyed fabric cannot be just assembled for garment wet processing operation such as garment dyeing, unless they have been engineered from the original design stage for garment dyeing. The factors governing processing of ready-made garments are • Sewing Thread • Metal Components. Shrink behavior • Accessories • Foreign substances • Interlining • Care labeling.

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Analysis of Diamond Woven Fabric Structure | Specification of Diamond Woven Fabric

Experiment name: Analysis of woven fabric(Diamond).

 Object: 1.To sketch the structure of fabric. 2.To know about the raw material of fabric. 3.To know about different specifications of fabric. Sample: 

  Apparatus: 1. Counting glass, 2. Needle, 3. Beesleys balance, 4. Twist tester, 5. GSM cutter, 6. Graph paper. Analysis: 1. Weave plan: In graph the gaps between the lines are considered according to X axis as weft threads and according to Y axis as warp threads. The up threads are indicated by filling up the gaps and down threads without filling up the gaps. 2. Drafting plan: According to British system drafting plan is drawn at the top of weave plan. Here pointed draft is used to draft the plan. 3. Lifting plan: The lifting plan is drawn at the right side of the weave plan. 4. Face side and backside: The face and backside can be easily understood. 5. Direction of warp and weft: Direction of both warp and weft are indicated by arrow marks by the side of the sample. 6. Raw material: Both warp and weft yarns are cotton.

  7. Thread density:

No. of reading

EPI

Average

PPI

Average

1

56

54

39

40

2

55

40

3

53

37

4

54

38

5

52

41

8. Yarn count:

No. of reading

Warp count

Average

Weft count

Average

1

18

20

7

9

2

19

10

3

21

9

4

20

8

5

22

11

9. Yarn twist:

No. of reading

Warp twist

Average

Weft twist

Average

1

3

4

3

5

2

5

6

3

4

4

4

3

5

5

6

6

10. Direction of twist: Both warp and weft yarns are ‘Z’ twisted. 11. Design of fabric: The formula number of this fabric is . 12. GSM calculation: We take one square inch fabric sample and find its weight 0.1116 gm. We know 1 inch = 2.54 cm i.e. 0.0254 m. So, 1 sq. inch = 0.02542 sq. m. Now, 0.02542 sq. m sample wt. = 0.1116 gm. 1 sq. m sample wt. = 173 gm. Therefore GSM of fabric is 267 gm/meter2. 13. Repeat size: The repeat size of this fabric is 18´18. 14. Type of loom: Tappet loom is used to produce this fabric. End Use:  

This type of fabric is used for making towel, bedsheet, pillow cover, table cloth and so on. Conclusion: 

Analysis of fabric structure is very essential to know about the fabric. Because it gives all kinds of information about the fabric that is needed to reproduce or to change structure or design of fabric. By this practical I learn how to analyse primarily a simple plain structure of woven fabric.  

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Fashion and Design Ebooks Free Download | Textile Engineering Books Free Download in PDF Form

I am a student of B.Sc. in Textile Engineering. So, I know which books are appropriate for Textile related studies.  I always try to find some free stuff like Textile book, textile dyeing and printing books, textile design book, free textile knitting book, free textile spinning eboooks, textile machines book, modern textile facts and textile processing book etc.

Today, I am giving you some link of exclusive free textile books from you can directly download the free textile ebooks in pdf format.

1. Fabric Structure & Design: Whether you are a weaver or fabric designer, you must have to know about the fabric as how it has been constructed, how the design has created, to get the best outcome from it what should the warp and weft and so one. The fabric structure and desing book can fulfill all of your demand. To download this Textile book just Click This Link.

2. Dyeing Books : From this site you will get a lot of dyeing books which can fulfill all of your demand.

To download the textile book named “Textile Dyeing” just click here Click This Link

3. Spinning Books : If you want to download a lot of spinning books .It can fulfill all of your demand. To download this spinning book just Click This Link.

4. Engineering Use of Geo Textile: “Engineering Use of Geo Textile” is a PDF formatted e-book which contains a fewer page than a traditional textile book but it has the enought content that a people should know about the Geo Textile.

To download the textile book named “Engineering use of Geo Textile” just click here – CLICK This Link.

5. Advanture Du Textile: If you want to do adventure with the Textile and various textiles term them this is the perfect book for you. This is another textile dyeing and printing books. To download the “Advanture Du Textile” you can - Click This Link.

6. HVI Spectrum: Textile testing is the most important section of a Textile industry. Without the Textile testing you never ever know where you should be improved and where the fault is to be corrected. The HVI is the machine which is itself a Textile Texting machines and HVI spectrum is one of the crucial part of it. To know about the HVI Spectrum, download this ebook from here - Click This Link.

7. Hossiery Yarn Book: Yarn is one of another Textile Hossiery Book which will give you a lot of information about Hossiery yarn and its properties. To download the hosiery yarn book, then click this link here.

Actually most of the well written textiles books are not free as usual. If you want to buy some quality Textile related books within lower prize from online where the Books will be shipped to your home with any extra cost then click here - Buy Textile Books

List of Latest Textile Books: I have the following books in my personal storage. If you are interested to get your necessary books then you can contact with me. Contact: Email: [email protected] Cell: [phone]

Book List:

A Practical Guide to Quality Management in Spinning

Advanced Fiber Spinning Technology

Advances in Fire Retardant Materials

Advances in Knitting Technology

Advances in military textiles

Advances in yarn spinning technology

Applications of Nonwovens in Technical Textiles

Bast and other plant fibres

Biodegradable and Sustainable Fibres

Chemical Finishing of Textiles

Chemical Technology in the Pre-Treatment Processes of Textiles, Volume 12

Chemical Testing of Textiles

Computer Technology for Textiles and Apparel

Digital Printing of Textiles

Environmental Aspects of Textile Dyeing

Environmental Impact of Textiles

Friction in Textile Materials

Functional Textiles for Improved Performance

Fundamentals and advances in knitting technology

Hand book of medical textile

Handbook of natural fibres

Handbook of nonwovens

Handbook of Technical Textile

Handbook of Tensile Properties of Textile and Technical Fibres

Handbook of Textile and Industrial Dyeing,

Handbook of Textile Fibre Structure (Vol 1)

Handbook of Textile Fibre Structure (Vol 2)

Handbook of Yarn Production

High speed spinning of polyester and its blends with viscose

High-performance fibres

Identification of Textile Fibers

Industrial Dyeing, Volume 1

Industrial engineering in apparel production

Intelligent Textiles and Clothing for Ballistic and NBC Protection

Military Textiles

Multifunctional Barriers for Flexible Structure

Nanofibers and Nanotechnology in Textiles

New Millennium Fibres

Performance of Home Textiles

Physical Properties of Textile Fibres (4th Edition)

Plasma technologies for textiles

Recycling in Textiles

Regenerated Cellulose Fibers

Smart Fibres, Fabrics & Clothing

Soft Computing in Textile Engineering

Synthetic Fibres - Nylon, Polyester,

Textile Advances in The Automotive Industry

Textile Processing with Enzymes

Textiles for Cold Weather Apparel

Textiles for Hygiene and Infection Control

Textiles For Protection

Textiles in Automotive Engineering

Textiles in Sport

Total Colour Management in Textiles

Yarn Texturing Technology

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Block Printing Style | Procedure of Block Printing on Fabric | After Treatment of Block Printing

Block Printing

The printing of fabric by hand, using carved wooden or linoleum blocks, as distinguished from printing by screens or roller is called block printing. Block printing is a special form of printing first developed in China. The earliest known example with an actual date is a copy of the Diamond Sutra from 868 A.D (currently in the British Museum), though the practice of block printing is probably about two thousand years old.

Procedure of Block Printing 

The fabric to be printed is washed free of starch and soft bleached if the natural gray of the fabric is not desired. If dyeing is required as in the case of saris where borders or the body is tied and dyed it is done before printing. The fabric is again washed to remove excess dye and dried thoroughly. The fabric is stretched over the printing table and fastened with small pins. This is an important stage as there should be a uniform tension in the fabric and no ripples. Color is mixed separately in another room. Usually pigment dyes are used for cotton. The first step in block printing is the production of the original document. This is laid on a large, smooth wooden block and fixed into place, reversed. Next, craftsmen of various skill levels, ranging from master carvers for the fine work to less talented artisans for cheaper blocks or less important sections, carve the original painted, drawn or written image into the block of wood. The block can now be covered with ink and used in a press to create duplicates of the original. 

 Color paste must be applied to the block surface in a controlled manner, and this was achieved by using a ‘sieve’. A small tub was nearly filled with a starch paste and a waterproof fabric, stretched on a frame, rested on the paste. A piece of woolen fabric was stretched on a slightly smaller frame and fastened to make the sieve. The sieve as saturated with color paste and placed on the waterproof fabric. For each impression, the ‘tiered’ (a boy) spread the color paste on the top surface of the woolen sieve with a large brush and the printer charged the block by pressing it on the wool. The block was then carefully positioned on the fabric, using the pitch pins as guides, and struck with a mallet. After printing a table length with the first block, the second was printed and then any others required to complete the design. 

After Treatment of Block Printing The fabric, after printing is dried out in the sun. This is part of the fixing process or aftertreatment of printing. It is then rolled in wads of newspapers to prevent the dye from adhering to other layers and steamed in boilers constructed for the purpose. Silks are also steamed this way after printing. After steaming, the material is washed thoroughly in large quantities of water and dried in the sun, after which it is finished by ironing out single layers, which fix the color permanently. 

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Step Cleaner/Ultra Cleaner/Super Cleaner | Object of Step/ Ultra/ Super Cleaner Machine

Step cleaner machine is an inportant machine in ring spinning for cleaning and opening impurities from cotton. This machine is set normally after porcupine opener machine.

Object of Step/ ultra/Super Cleaner Machine i. To open & clear the cotton by combinations of opposite spike action & the beating action. ii. To remove the impurities such as leaves, stalk, motes & sand without damage the fiber. Main Parts : i. Motor. ii. Motor pulley. iii. Beaters. iv. Baffle plate. v. Grid.

Step Cleaner

Main Setting Point : Set to do the require amount as cleaning close grid bars, setting gives good opening & large grid bar setting gives poor opening, other setting points are, Beater to Grid bar = 1`` & beater to beater = 8``.

Specification :

i. Motor r.p.m = 695

ii. Dia of the beater = 18.6``

iii. Dia of two pulley = 21.2``

iv. Dia of one pulley = 16``

v. No. of striker = 26

Calculation :

          Beater r.p.m = 695*(16``/21.2``)

                                   = 524.5

          Beater per min. = 524.5*26

                               = 13637

Conclusion : This is the second m/c of blow room line. It works step by step & for this it is called step cleaner. It is a good instrument of opening & cleaning of cotton by the action of beater. It also removes ascertain a out of leaves, stalk & other impurities. It is suitable for process of low grade cotton.

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Scouring Process in Textile | How to Scouring Textile Fabric | Alkaline Enzyme Scouring of Cotton Textiles

Yarns and fabrics may be dirty, contain natural waxes or oils, or have been treated with size or lubricants used in spinning, weaving or knitting. These can all interfere with dyeing, often leading to non-level results. Scouring is a large topic, and the process used depends on the fibre type and its condition. “True” scouring of greige cellulosic fabrics is typically done, after desizing, at the boil or at higher temperature in pressure vessels, with as much as 10 grams sodium hydroxide per litre of water, plus surfactants, and the process may last for several hours. Commercial scouring of wool may use solvents, similar to dry cleaning, as part of the process. White fabrics sold at retail have normally be scoured at the mill; “natural” fabrics usually have not (some “natural” fabrics have been scoured but not bleached).

Art dyeing literature often refers to what amounts to laundering as scouring. This is inadequate for greige fabrics, but often quite acceptable for “white goods”. A long machine wash with the hottest water possible, about a gram of soda ash per litre of water (about a teaspoon per gallon) and some (preferably optical brightener free) detergent, followed by two rinses is usually acceptable. Sodium hexametaphosphate may be helpful if the water is hard. Woven white cottons often contain starch that will not be removed by such a limited process.

Alkaline Enzyme Scouring of Cotton Textiles The invention relates to a process for treatment of cellulosic material, as for example, knitted or woven cotton fabric, comprising the steps of preparing an aqueous enzyme solution comprising pectinase, treating the cellulosic material with an effective amount of the aqueous enzyme solution under alkaline scouring conditions; e.g., pH of 9 or above and a temperature of 50° C. or above, in a low calcium or calcium-free environment, yielding a modification of the cellulosic material such that exhibits an enhanced respond to a subsequent chemical treatment. Traditionally, cotton scouring has required the use of harsh alkaline chemicals (caustic), extreme temperatures and large volumes of water. Expenses include not only the cost of the caustic and energy, but also the cost of treating waste water to remove residual caustic and by-products. Today, textile producers have a new, effective alternative to chemical scouring with the advent of the Cottonase™ enzyme. This novel enzyme not only cleans better than chemical scouring, but also greatly reduces the need for extensive waste water treatment and energy consumption. The Cottonase™ enzyme is a versatile, economically viable and environmentally friendly alternative to chemical scouring in cotton preparation.

How to Scouring Textile Fabric:

Simply wash your fabric, this includes PFD fabric, in the washing machine in hot water with Soda Ash. Do not add any fabric softeners to the wash. If you must dry your fabric do so without any fabric softener sheets

Using an large enamel or stainless steel pot, fill the pot at least half full and place one ounce of soda ash into the pot per pound of cotton or linen fabric/fiber.

Place fabric into water, swish it around using a stainless steel spoon.

Bring water to a boil!!!

Adjust heat to a low boil/hard simmer and allow to boil for two hours. stir the fabric every 15 minutes or so t make sure that the fabric is being adequately scoured

After two hours remove from heat source, allow fabric to cool down until the fabric is at room temperature. 

Remove the fabric from the water and rinse. 

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What is Pigment Dyeing? | Pigment Dyeing Process | Process Flow Diagram for Pigment Garment Dyeing Process

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Pigment Dyeing

Pigment dyeing is not really "dyeing" in it's truest form because the pigments stick on the fabric with the help of binders.. Pigments are insoluble in water. They exist in the form of finely ground molecules, milled for garment dyeing purposes into a paste. When anionic dispersing agents are added, a slightly negative charge is present, thus the foundation for pigment dyeing is born. When a positively charged cationic pre-treat is added to the fiber a magnetic bond is formed. The process is complete when a cationic binder is added to "lock" the pigment into place.In pigment dyeing no actual chemical reaction takes place between the dye and the fabric. The pigment dyeing process is generally a three step process such as: 1.Cationisation of the Fabric 

Or giving electric charge to the fabric by a powerful cationic pretreatment. Pigment dyeing is an electrical process whereby the goods to be dyed are given an electrical charge opposite that of the pigment. When the pigment is added to the bath, the opposite electrical charges attract each other, much like the north and the south poles of two magnets. Because of the electrical nature of the process. A typical recipe for cationizing Step • Cationic Imparting Agent • Wetter • Acetic Acid for pH control

The cationic agent is applied with a wetting agent and acetic acid onto the fabric in the batch or commercial dyeing machine. After a period of time, the fabric is rinsed. 2.Pigment Exhaustion on the Fabric The pigments are first mixed with water and a dispersing agent that imparts an anionic charge to the pigments. This solution is added gradually to the dyeing machine. The temperature of the bath is slowly increased and the machine is held at the dyeing temperature for up to 20 minutes. The fabric is held at an elevated temperature to increase the adsorption of the pigments. A typical recipe for this step • Pigment colorants • Dispersing agent 3.Binder Application

A binder used in the exhaust pigment dyeing procedure for fixing pigment colors.Binders are commonly acrylic polymers with nonionic and cationic nature. It improves crock and wash fastness.After the pigment is exhausted , the binder is fed into the dyeing machine and exhausted onto the fabric over a period of time. Acetic acid is added to the bath, which facilitates binder polymerization, then the fabric is rinsed, the dyeing machine is drained, and the fabric is extracted.

Dyeing Process Flow Diagram

A Process flow diagram for pigment Garment dyeing process

Advantages of Pigment Dyeing

1.Its applicable to a wide range of textiles and wide gamut of colors available. Some brilliant fluorescent pigments are available for special applications and fashion items. 2.The process of pigment dyeing can also be relatively cheap. 3.The process chemicals are less toxic , environmentally friendly and least polluting. 4.The color fades with the repeated use , just like denims. Limitations of Pigment Dyeing 1.Color fading could be a problem if not desired, and can only be kept intact with further chemical treatments. 2.The abrasion resistance and hand could be unsatisfactory depending upon the pigment, binder and softener used. 3.Dark and deep shades are better produced with other dyestuffs rather than pigments.

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List of Best Textile Engineering Universities in Sri Lanka | Textile Courses in Sri Lanka | Textile Engineering Colleges in Sri Lanka | Textile Colleges in Sri Lanka | Apparel Colleges in Sri Lanka | Garment Colleges in Sri Lanka | Fashion Colleges in Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka Institute of Textile and Apparel Sri Lanka Institute of Textile & Apparel (SLITA) was established on July 01, 2009 under the provisioning Act No.12 of 2009 by merging Clothing Industry Training Institute and Textile Training & Services Centre which had jointly served the Apparel Industry for near 25 years. URL : http://www.textile-clothing.lk/ University of Moratuwa Katubedda10400 MoratuwaSri Lanka (Ceylon) tel: [phone] url:http://www.mrt.ac.lk admin director: Arthur C. Clarke chief librarian: S. Rubinasingham public relations: Rasika Amarasiri libraries: University of Moratuwa Library subjects: Fabric & Textile: L. D. Fernando Academy of Design (AOD) We are Sri Lanka's only fully integrated design school offering you an undergraduate education in Fashion Design, Interior Design, Graphic Design and Jewellery Design. Courses B.A. (Hons) Fashion Design B.A. (Hons) Interior Design B.A. (Hons) Graphic Design NC Jewellery Design Contact: AOD Colombo (Pvt) Ltd 29, Lauries Road, Colombo 04. Tel : [phone]. Email : [email protected] URL :http://www.aod.lk Raffles Design Institute About Raffles Design Institute, Sri Lanka At Raffles Design Institute, our commitment is to afford our students a high quality education that provides our graduates with well-rounded hands-on learning experience that is relevant to the Sri Lankan and global industry. Courses:Fashion design,Fashion marketing,jewellery design. web site Url:http://www.raffles.lk/

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Introduction of Mordant Dye | Properties of Mordant Dyes | Mechanism of Mordant Dyeing | Application of Mordant Dyes

A dyestuff that requires the use of a mordant. There are very few synthetic dyestuffs currently in use that require a separate mordant, except for some dyes for wool, where mordant dyes are still quite popular. Since chromium is almost exclusively used as the mordant on wool, chrome dye has become essentially synonymous with mordant dye. Many natural dyes (plant extracts, etc.) require a mordant. The mordant used can significantly influence the hue produced with a particular dyestuff. These are special acid dyes in which certain metal atom can be introduced during dyeing. These are water soluble dyes and affinity for silk, wool and polyamides. Mordant dyes requires a mordant in their application and these dyes upon cobination with the mordant deposit on the fiber in the form of insoluble color. Most commonly dyes have hydroxyl or carboxyl groups and are negatively charged (anionic) in nature.

Properties of Mordant Dyes

1. These dyes are economical dyes and are generally used to produce dark shades such as dark greens , dark blues and blacks. 2. These dyes have good leveling and color fastness properties. 3. The interaction between fiber and dye is established through very strong ionic bonds , which are formed between the anionic groups of the colorant and ammonium cations on the fiber. Chromium or the metal ion acts as bridge between the dye and fiber , which gives rise to a very strong linkage , resulting into excellent fastness properties. However there are disadvantages of the chrome dyes also such as longer dyeing cycles, difficulties in shading , risk of chemical damage to the fiber and the potential release of chromium in the waste water. Mechanism of Dyeing Since these are a special class of acid dyes , which are soluble in water and applied to the fiber from an acidic bath. When a solution of an acid mordant dye is mixed with a solution of potassium dichromate in the presence of sulfuric acid , chromium ion from dichromate forms a complex with the dyes , this complex is insoluble in water ,and hence precipitates on the fiber. There are three different methods of application of chrome dyes on the fiber,

Chrome – Mordant method

After chrome method

Meta chrome method

Application of Mordant Dyes Chrome-Mordant Process In chrome mordant process, the fiber is first treated with potassium dichromate in the neutral bath or in the presence of either sulfuric or formic or oxalic acid. When sufficient amount of chromium is taken up by fiber , it is taken out , squeezed and entered in the dye bath containing acid mordant dye. The dye form an insoluble complex with chrome present on the fiber . After Chrome Method In this method the substrate is first treated with the dye , the dye is exhausted by the addition of an acid , and after complete exhaustion the material is taken out squeezed and then run in a solution containing potassium dichromate and an acid. Metal dye complex is formed on the fiber , which is insoluble. Meta Chrome Process This is a single bath process , in which the material is treated with in a bath containing acid mordant dye , potassium dichromate and ammonium sulphate. The dye along with potassium dichromate and ammonium sulphate got absorbed by the fiber and evenly distributed but no complex is formed because the pH is not suitable for the chemical reaction to take place. In the second step of the meta chrome process, when the dye bath is heated , ammonium sulphate is converts into ammonia and sulphuric acid , which makes the bath strongly acidic and potassium dichromate in the presence of strong acid now react with the dye molecule forming an insoluble complex on the fiber. A dyeing cycle for dyeing of wool with chrome dyes is shown below

 Dyeing cycle of Wool

Here, 

A=Gluber salt+Acetic acid+Leveling agent B= Dye C= Potassium Dichromate D=Acid

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Burning Test of Textile Fiber | Flammability Test of Textile Fiber | Fiber Identification Through Burning Test

Fabric Identification is done with a simple fabric burn test or fiber burn test. Flammability testing, Flammability Test is best to know the identification of fabric.

To recognize the composition of fabrics by the burning test ,the sample of fibre, yarn of fabric should be moved slowly towards a small flame and the reaction to heat carefully observed .One end of the sample should be put directly into flame to determine its burning rate and characteristics. The burning odour should be noted and the characteristics of the ash such as amount ,form, hardness and colour should be examined. To identify fabric that is unknown, a simple burn test can be done to determine if the fabric is a natural fiber, man made fiber, or a blend of natural and man made fibers. The burn test is used by many fabric stores and designers and takes practice to determine the exact fiber content. However, an inexperienced person can still determine the difference between many fibers to "narrow" the choices down to natural or man made fibers. This elimination process will give information necessary to decide the care of the fabric. Warning All fibers will burn! Asbestos treated fibers are, for the most part fire proof. The burning test should be done with caution. Use a small piece of fabric only. Hold the fabric with tweezers, not your fingers. Burn over a metal dish with soda in the bottom or even water in the bottom of the dish. Some fabrics will ignite and melt. The result is burning drips which can adhere to fabric or skin and cause a serious burn. Identification of Fibers Through  Burning Test:

Cotton When ignited it burns with a steady flame and smells like burning leaves. The ash left is easily crumbled. Small samples of burning cotton can be blown out as you would a candle. Linen Linen takes longer to ignite. The fabric closest to the ash is very brittle. Linen is easily extinguished by blowing on it as you would a candle. Silk It is a protein fibre and usually burns readily, not necessarily with a steady flame, and smells like burning hair. The ash is easily crumbled. Silk samples are not as easily extinguished as cotton or linen. Wool It is also a protein fibre but is harder to ignite than silk as the individual "hair" fibres are shorter than silk and the weave of the fabrics is generally looser than with silk. The flame is steady but more difficult to keep burning. The smell of burning wool is like burning hair. Man Made Fibres Acetate Acetate burns readily with a flickering flame that cannot be easily extinguished. The burning cellulose drips and leaves a hard ash. The smell is similar to burning wood chips. Acrylic Acrylics burn readily due to the fibre content and the lofty, air filled pockets. A match dropped on an acrylic blanket can ignite the fabric which will burn rapidly unless extinguished. The ash is hard. The smell is acrid or harsh. Nylon Nylon melts and then burns rapidly if the flame remains on the melted fibre. If you can keep the flame on the melting nylon, it smells like burning plastic. Polyester Polyester melts and burns at the same time, the melting, burning ash can bond quickly to any surface it drips on including skin. The smoke from polyester is black with a sweetish smell. The extinguished ash is hard. Rayon It is a regenerated cellulose fibre which is almost pure cellulose. Rayon burns rapidly and leaves only a slight ash. The burning smell is close to burning leaves. Limitation of Burning Test: It is apparent that many fibers have similar burning reactions that might cause doubt and occasional confusion.

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What is Foam Dyeing/Shaving Cream Dyeing? | Foam Dyeing Procedure | Requirements of Foaming Agents

Foam Dyeing

In case of foam dyeing, the main dyeing elements is foam. For that’s this dyeing is called foam dyeing. A fabric is padded with a foam formed from an aqueous solution of a dyestuff, a foaming agent and a carrier for the dyestuff and the padded fabric is maintained at elevated temperatures to fix the dye. The advantages of the process include improved dye prefixation, improved migration of the dye into the fiber, higher color yields in the fabric even after relatively short dyeing times and improved dimensional stability of the dyed fabrics. 

Foam Dyeing

Foam is a dispersion of a gas in a liquid. Here the liquid is generally water and the gas is generally air but it may also be an inert gas. This is familiar as fort on beer shaving foam etc. Types of Foam: Broadly there are two types of foam namely 1. Dispersion foam 2. Condensation foam Materials Need for Foam Dyeing: - White fabric - cotton, rayon, silk or other natural fiber to dye on - Dharma Fiber Reactive MX dyes - Soda Ash Fixer - Synthrapol - Squeeze bottles to hold your dyes - Foam shaving cream, preferably containing aloe - Flat, shallow, plastic or metal pan - Plastic mixing bowls - Wire whisk -Tape Requirements of Foaming Agents:

It should generate foam readily.

It should offer a good wetting capability.

It should exert fast an uniform wetting action.

It should show little or no effect on color fastness.

It should be compatible with other products of the finishing mix.

It should be least effect ed by water hardness.

It should not cause yellowing of white materials.

It should be easily stabilized.

It should be capable of producing various bubble sizes to meet specific requirements.

Foam Dyeing Procedure: 1. Pre-wash the fabric in Synthrapol. This removes any oils or dirt that might be on the fabric and gives you better dye results. 2. Dissolve one cup soda ash in one gallon of hot water. Soak the fabric in the soda ash solution for 5-10 minutes, wring lightly and hang dry. 3. Dissolve your dye powders (2 tsps. for colors without an *, 4 tsps. for colors with one *, 8 tsps. for colors with two *) in a small amount of warm water, stirring into a smooth paste. Stir in 1/2 cup lukewarm water. For reds and colors containing red, filter the dye solution through a coffee filter or piece of silk to remove difficult to dissolve particles. Add 1/2 cup shaving cream to the filtered dye solution, then pour this mixture into the squeeze bottle. 4. Dilute about half a can of shaving cream with a cup of water in a large mixing bowl. Whisk the mixture until well blended and thick and creamy. Pour mixture into the tray until about an inch deep. 5. Squirt the dye/shaving cream mixture over the shaving cream/water mixture in the tray in any pattern you wish. Use a comb, chopsticks, or any tool to swirl and spread the dye into any pattern desired. 6. Place a piece of the prepared fabric on the surface of the shaving cream and dye pattern. Remove any air bubbles by pushing down gently with a tool or a gloved hand. 7. Allow the fabric to sit on the surface of the dye/shaving cream for 5 minutes, then remove fabric by lifting carefully. Place on a flat surface shaving cream side up and allow to sit for 2 to 24 hours to develop the dye. The piece needs to remain moist for the activation to take place. 8. Rinse fabric in cool running water to remove the soda ash, and then increase temperature to hot. Continue to rinse until water is almost clear, then wash in hot water and Synthrapol to remove any excess dye. Dry, press and voila! 

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Presentation of Fashion Show | Historical Background of Fashion Show

Fashion Show

Fashion Show A fashion show is an event put on by a fashion designer to showcase his or her upcoming line of clothing. In a typical fashion show, models walk the catwalk dressed in the clothing created by the designer. Occasionally, fashion shows take the form of installations, where the models are static, standing or sitting in a constructed environment. The order in which each model walks out wearing a specific outfit is usually planned in accordance to the statement that the designer wants to make about his or her collection.

The way that each outfit is presented on the catwalk isn't necessarily the way the designer is trying to make people wear his or her creations in everyday life. In this instances, this is more of an intellectual/artistic construction of the designer for the same purpose of making a statement or presenting a particular idea. It is then up to the audience to not only try to understand what the designer is trying to say by the way the collection is being presented, but to also visually de-construct each outfit and try to appreciate the detail and craftsmanship of every single piece. A wide range of contemporary designers tend to produce their shows as theatrical productions with elaborate sets and added elements such as live music or a variety of technological component like holograms, for example History of Fashion Show Because "the topic of fashion shows remains to find its historian,"the earliest history of fashion shows remains obscure. In the 1800s, "fashion parades" periodically took place in Paris couture salons. American retailers imported the concept of the fashion show in the early 1900s.The first American fashion show likely took place in 1903 in the New York City store Ehrlich Brothers.By 1910, large department stores such as Wanmakers in New York City and Philadelphia were also staging fashion shows. These events showed couture gowns from Paris or the store's copies of them; they aimed to demonstrate the owners' good taste and capture the attention of female shoppers.By the 1920s, retailers across the United States held fashion shows.Often, these shows were theatrical, presented with narratives, and organized around a theme (e.g. Parisian, Chinese, or Russian).These shows enjoyed huge popularity through mid-century, sometimes attracting thousands of customers and gawkers. In the 1970s and 1980s, American designers began to hold their own fashion shows in private spaces apart from such retailers. In the early 1990s, however, many in the fashion world began to rethink this strategy. After several mishaps during shows in small, unsafe locations, "the general sentiment was, 'We love fashion but we don't want to die for it,'" recalls Fern Mallis, then executive director of the Council of fashion designers of American. In response to these shows, the New York shows were centralized in Brayn Park during fashion week in late 1993. Lately from the 2000 to today, fashion shows are usually also filmed and appear on specially assigned television channels or even in documentaries.

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Engrave Roller Printing | Working Procdure of Roller Printing | Advantages/Disadvantages of Engrave Roller Printing Machine

Engrave Roller Printing Roller Printing also called engrave roller printing. It is a modern continuous printing technique. In this method, a heavy copper cylinder (roller) is engraved with the print design by carving the design into the copper. Copper is soft, so once the design is engraved, the roller is electroplated with chrome for durability. This printing technique developed in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Until the development of rotary screen printing; it was the only continuous technique. Designs with up to 16 colors present no problem in Roller Printing.

Main parts of Roller Printing

 Color doctor

 Lint doctor

 Blankets

 Back grey

 Furnishers

Color box / tray

 Color unit

Roller Printing Machine

Working Process of Roller Printing:

This machine has a main cylinder that is fitted with a large gear.In this printing, the print paste is supplied from reservoirs to rotating copper rollers, which are engraved with the desired design. These rollers contact a main cylinder roller that transports the fabric. By contacting the rollers and the fabric the design is transferred to the fabric. As many as 16 rollers can be available per print machine, each roller imprints one repeat of the design. As the roller spins, a doctor blade in continuous mode scrapes the excess of paste back to the colour trough. At the end of each batch the paste reservoirs are manually emptied into appropriate printing paste batch containers and squeezed out. The belt and the printing gear (roller brushes or doctor blades, squeegees and ladles) are cleaned up with water.

The Defects in the Engrave Roller Printing

 Scratches

 Snappers

 Lifts

 Streaks

 Scumming

 Lobbing

Advantages of Engrave Roller Printing Machine

 Higher production without rotary screen printing machine.

 14 colors can be used for printing.

 Medium design can be produced.

 Can be used for printing any style.

 Any color is used for printing without higher alkali or conc. acid.

 Repeats do not exist as printing is continuous.

 Higher production by using single color.

 Complex design is possible.

Disadvantages of Engrave Roller Printing Machine

 Large design is not possible.

 Generally, shedding fault is found.

 Higher coloring effect is not possible as like block printing.

 Lower production by using more than one color.

 Changing time is high. 

 Engraving the printing roller is expensive Operation

Difference between Rotary screen printing and Copper screen printing

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Introduction of Calendering Finishing | Working Process of Calendering Finishing

Calendering Calendering is a mechanical finishing process used on cloth where fabric is folded in half and passed under rollers at high temperatures and pressures. Calendering is used on fabrics such as moire to produce its watered effect and also on cambric and some types of sateens. Calendaring is a high speed ironing process that primarily imparts lustre and is usually the final treatment for the fabrics in the finishing sequence. The basic principle of calendaring is to expose the cloth to the combined effect of moisture, heat and pressure until the fabric acquires a very smooth and light reflecting surface and gets a good lustre. The calendaring effect on the fabric is usually temporary and disappears after first washing. Semi permanent lustre is sometimes achieved by padding fabric in a sparingly soluble polyvinyl acetate emulsion before calendaring, where the solution acts as a binding agent. More permanent finish can be obtained by treating fabric with a solution of crease recovery reagent, followed by drying, calendaring and curing the fabric at about 150 ºC. The calendars are basically an assembly of heavy rolls, alternatively of iron and paper or cotton that are normally mounted in vertical frames. The rolls are bearing one on the other under a high pressure that is applied by compound levers or hydraulic or pneumatic equipment. 

Calendering

Paper or cotton rolls are made by compressing sheets of paper and cotton under heavy pressure of hundreds of tons and then finely turned to produce a smooth surface. The iron rolls are also called chilled rolls because these are hardened by sudden chilling of the red-hot rolls. These are hollow so as to allow passage of steam or sometimes gas-fire to heat these to different temperatures. 

Nipco-Flex Calender The pressure application concept of this calender is different from the conventional calendering system. The pressing roller consists of a rotating shell that is covered with a highly elastic plastic material named as RACOLAN. The roller has fixed axels on which hydrostatic support elements are mounted that press the racolan shell against either steel or a cotton/paper roller. The hydrostatic pressure is applied with oil and is adjustable according to width of the cloth. The NIPCO roller can be arranged in vertical position or in L shape with a hot steel roller at top and a cotton bowl in front of it. The main advantages of NIPCO calender over a conventional calender are; 1. Attainment of very high pressure. 2. Adjustment of pressure line according to width of cloth. 3. No over load at the fabric selvedge. 4. Easy installation and removal of the rollers. Felt Calender Felt calenders are mainly used for imparting lustre and smoothness to silk, rayon and cotton knitwear materials. These work at low pressure and temperature than used for cotton. The cloth is pressed between an endless felt blanket and a hot steel cylinder at a speed of 20 to 40 meters/minutes. By adjusting speeds of the feed and take up rollers the tubular knitwear can be compacted to some extent on this calender.

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Introduction of Pressing Fastness Test | Color Fastness to Pressing

Color Fastness to Pressing: Pressing fastness test of dyed and printed textile products is performed to determine of resistance of textiles to ironing and to processing on cylinders. Different tests are performed according to when the textile is dry, when it is wet, and when it is damp. 

Purpose and Scope: This method is used for determining the resistance of the colour of textile of all kinds and in all forms to ironing and processing on hot cylinders. Tests are given for hot pressing when the textiles are wet, when it is damp, and when it is dry. Apparatus and Reagent  

Hand iron of proper weight to give a pressure of approximately 30g/sq.cm at the temperature indicated in the following ;

Cotton & Linen 190-200C˚

Wool, Silk & Viscose 140-160C˚

Cellulose acetate & Polyamide 115-120C˚

White bleached cotton cloth weighting approximately 125g/sq.meter. Five pieces not less than 14×4 cm are required. 

Gray scale by assessing change in colour and staining.(ISO scale)  

The size of the specimen is 10×4cm

Working Procedure Specimen preparation Specimen of materials, which has been subjected to any heat or drying treatment, must be allowed to condition at 65% RH, temp. 20±2C˚, before they tested. Dry Pressing Place the specimen on the piece of dry cotton cloth on a smooth horizontal surface. Place the iron on the specimen and leave it for 15 Sec. Damp Pressing: 

The adjacent fabric in dimensions of 100 mm x 40 mm is immersed into the water and, squeezed as 100% pick up. Dry specimen is placed onto the undyed cotton fabric on the filler and, the wet adjacent fabric is placed onto them. The top layer of the device is pulled down and, dry specimen is pressed for 15 seconds at the determined temperature. The change in color of the specimen is evaluated in two different ways according to grey scale. a) Soon after the end of the test b) After conditioning for 4 hours under standard atmospheric circumstances. The staining to undyed fabrics is evaluated by grey scale. Wet Pressing Soak the specimen and cotton cloth in distilled water and squeeze or extract them to contain their own weight of water. Place the wet specimen on a piece of the dry cotton cloth and place the wet cotton cloth on the specimen, press by moving the iron to and fro over the wet cloth (without additional pressure) for 15 sec. Assessment Assess the change in colour of the specimen with appropriate grey scale. Standard Dry Pressing 4 Wet Pressing 3-4