The Chicagovore

[thechicagovore-blog]

The Golden Ticket - Next: Paris 1906

During my transcendental meal at Alinea in January, the Escoffier course was one of the most memorable among the twenty plus courses we were treated to by the culinary genius, Chef Achatz.  This was because it was the polar opposite of Achatz’s usual “Modernist Cuisine,” as it was straight forward, not hiding behind a fog of liquid nitrogen and foreshadowed the highly anticipated opening menu of Next.

We were fortunate enough to have tickets for dinner during Next’s second week in operation. Upon being seated, we were handed a card to start our culinary voyage back in time to the Parisian dining room of the Ritz at the turn of the last century. “Auguste Escoffier's life was framed by La Belle Epoque, a period of political stability, technological innovation, and a thriving economy before the chaos and horror of World War I.” Thankfully, Next proved to not be an upscale Epcot dining experience. Instead, the dining space is neutral, yet the exposed ironwork above conjured thoughts of an airplane’s fuselage – fitting for the time travel we were about to experience. It would be impossible for Next to not carry some of the hallmark DNA from Alinea that has made it the finest dining destination in the country.  Whether or not Chef Achatz is stoically pacing the dining room as he was during our visit, you can expect service to be impeccable, the wait staff to be humorous, conversational, yet incredibly knowledgeable of the cuisine, and there not to be a single fingerprint on any of the silver platters. The eight course meal began with four hors d'oeuvres, each engaging the palate and full of sensory detail.  Everything from the brandade presented in eggshells which featured rich cream custard and chopped truffles, to the silky foie gras set inside a buttery brioche with quenelle of apricot jam, was decadent. It’s at this point where I feel compelled to remind you to appreciate the details, notice the micro herbs, etc. that are exactingly placed with precision using jeweler’s tweezers. Next up was the turtle consommé, which our waiter informed us was historically served to excite the appetite ahead of a large meal.  The clear broth was delicate and earthy, but what stole the show with this course was the wine. On the nose it had smell of a fortified spirit, but on the palate it completely dissipates into the flavor profile of the Savagnin varietal’s distant cousin, Gewurztraminer.  The dish of the snapping turtle consommé snapped back and the lid of the serving vessel fell into my bowl, and as a testament to the high level at which service is executed at Next, my dish, and those of my fellow diners were immediately cleared and the well choreographed front of the house instinctively swept into action, poured us another glass of sparkling wine, and started the course over. Many have noted the fourth course of chicken, universally looked over during most dining experience as menu filler, as the most surprising of the Paris menu, however, I found the Filet de Sole Daumont to be my favorite of the evening (besides the duck). The small spool of sole was placed in the center of a shallow pool of Sauce Normande, a creamy, buttery, sauce with the essence of shellfish. Perhaps more intriguing were the perfectly synergistic accompaniments, the stuffed, hand-carved mushroom, fried fish roe, and the stuffed head of crayfish. The well documented pièce de résistance was the Caneton Rouennais a la Presse – simply anointed “The Duck.”  Without belaboring the point, the duck is perfection. It had crisp and unctuous skin, perfectly cooked meat laced with thyme, and the sauce, oh the sauce, a lavish and umami laden concentrate of duck. I was so smitten with the sauce that I mopped the plate and extra gravy boat dry with my mini-boule roll. As we segued into dessert, Salade Irma was presented with a beautiful edible flower placed atop a salad of greens, asparagus, cauliflower and radish tossed in a pleasingly acidic dressing. An excellent palate cleanser. The Bombe Ceylan was flawless, and subtle, which to me at least played to its detriment coming off the zenith of the menu just minutes before. To conclude the meal, a gleaming tray of Mignardises was placed in front of us. Our waiter suggested eating the pistachio nougat and salted caramel in sequential order so that the lingering flavor of the nougat would combine with the dissolving caramel and be reminiscent of a Snickers candy bar. Dining at the hands of Chef Achatz has been known to cause spontaneous emotional outbreaks, tears of joy, laughter, and the final Mignardises brought out the latter. Perhaps attributable to the eight generous pours of wine; our table erupted in laughter upon consuming the sugar coated beet flavored jelly.  The clarity in which the beet flavor hits your senses as the final bite of the meal was completely unexpected and playful.  Although getting tickets to Next may be even more difficult than securing a reservation at Schwa, persistence will be rewarded with the meal of a lifetime for the simple fact that it is the inspired emulation of a meal from a bygone era you would otherwise never had the opportunity to experience firsthand.

Executive Chef Dave Beran greeting us at the entrance of the kitchen. 

[thechicagovore-blog]

Ampersand Tour: Blokes & Birds Public House

Blokes & Birds seems a bit out of place in Wrigleyville and that couldn't make me happier. In Chicago's equivalent to the Jersey Shore on a weekend night, the owners of this gastropub were brave enough to shun the fizzy yellow beer pedalled to the masses elsewhere on Clark and instead have pulled together a diverse draft and bottle list that pays homage to English, Belgian, and American craft brewers. Blokes & Birds is also one of the few establishments to feature hand-pulled cask ale on the weekend. The menu is a progressive take on traditional, hearty English pub fare.  For example, the sheppard's pie includes 14hr stout braised lamb which was soul warming on a cold night. Other menu items included steamed mussels vindaloo, bubble and squeak, and fish and chips, available with haddock or mahi mahi. While it may be an outlier on Clark, this is a great place to grab a pint with your fellow blokes or birds.

3343 N Clark St, Wrigleyville (Belmont or Addison-Red 'L' station)

[thechicagovore-blog]

In the Kitchen: No-Knead Artisan Bread

Is there anything simpler, yet so delightful, than warm bread slathered in butter? This recipe was first published in the New York Times in Mark Bittman’s Minimalist column in late 2006, with some fine tuning here. This hands-off approach to bread baking has made the rounds around the blogosphere for good reason – it’s brilliantly simple for the non-baker (me) and delivers results that are on par with, maybe even better than, your local bakery. From start to finish you’re looking at about 20 hours, but only 5 minutes of that is active time, so don’t rush the process.  It’s the time that adds the character, making the bread chewy, yet light and airy. Best of all, this recipe doesn’t require tireless kneading or a starter from a mother. I have included ingredients by weight and volume for your reference. For consistency I opt to measure by weight and it makes my digital scale, previously relegated to homebrewing, a multipurpose kitchen gadget. This recipe is so effortless to make that it has quickly become a weekly tradition in our home.

No-Knead Artisan Bread

Adapted from Jim Lahey, Sullivan Street Bakery Time: About 1½ hours plus 14 to 20 hours’ rising   430 grams bread flour (3 cups), more for dusting 345 grams warm water (1 5/8 cups) 10 grams salt (2 tsp) 1 gram instant or active dry yeast (1/4 tsp)

In a large bowl combine flour, yeast and salt. Add water, and stir until blended; dough will be shaggy and sticky. Cover bowl with plastic wrap. Let dough rest at least 12 hours, preferably about 18, at warm room temperature, about 70 degrees.

Dough is ready when its surface is dotted with bubbles. Lightly flour a work surface and place dough on it; sprinkle it with a little more flour and fold it over on itself twice.  Using just enough flour to keep dough from sticking to work surface or to your fingers, gently shape the dough into a ball. Dust with more flour and cover letting it rise for another 2-3 hours. When it is ready, dough will be more than double in size and will not readily spring back when poked with a finger.

At least a half-hour before dough is ready, preheat oven to 450 degrees. Put a 5.5 quart or similar sized covered enamled cast iron pot (such as Le Creuset) in the oven as it heats. Carefully remove pot from oven, and slide your dough into the pot. It doesn’t matter which way it lands, seams and other imperfection will add a rustic character to the finished product. Shake the dough if it is uneven and cover with lid and bake 30 minutes, then remove lid and bake another 15 to 20 minutes, until loaf is browned, crust is firm, and the internal temperature reaches 210 degrees. Cool on a rack.

[thechicagovore-blog]

New to the Neighborhood: Fish Bar

DMK's new neighbor Fish Bar is 30 seats small, so it shouldn't come as surprise you'll have to wait (40 min at 6:30pm on a Saturday). Having lived in Southern California, Fish Bar invoked memories of the roadside seafood shacks along the PCH in Malibu, except there was no view of the Pacific, and counter intuitively, the food tasted better on the corner of Sheffield and Wellington. 

The menu has an emphasis on sustainable seafood and is divided by preparation method which includes: raw, fried, sandwiches, etc. From the raw section, a mix of East and West Coast oysters (6 for $15) were fresh and tasted of the briny sea. The lightly battered calamari "Federal Hill" ($6) was cooked perfectly and accompanied by pickled peppers that added subtle heat and a pleasing sourness. Perhaps the most common item coming out of the kitchen was the Maine lobster roll which was overflowing with meat and served on a buttered bun ($18). Make sure to leave room for dessert because the pies are from Hot Chocolate's Mindy Segal. The key lime pie is great way to end the meal, both creamy and refreshingly tart.  The drink menu consists of 8 Belgian and American beers selected to pair with the food and a half dozen signature cocktails served in miniature mason jars - the Tea and Negroni Baloney were personal favorites. Although they may be a little ahead of the weather, I can imagine these going down quite easy once the temperature breaks 80 and the rumored sidewalk seating opens.

Gratuitous closeups of the food can be found at The Chicagoist

2956 N Sheffield Ave, Lakeview (Wellington 'L' stop)

[thechicagovore-blog]

In the Kitchen: Fettuccine with Asparagus and Shiitake Mushrooms

Food is community, and with Spring right around the corner, it means Lincoln Park’s Green City Market will be resuming its outdoor location in only a few short weeks. I developed this recipe to celebrate the season and showcase the product of Mick Klug Farms, my favorite purveyor in the early weeks of the market when stands are dominated with asparagus and rhubarb. Unlike baking, which truly is a science, all measurements listed below are to be used as a guide, merely suggestions. Buon appetito!

Fettuccine with Asparagus and Shiitake Mushrooms (Serves 2)

6-8 ounces fresh fettuccine 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, divided  1 Shallot, diced 2 Cloves of garlic, diced 1/2 pound fresh shiitake mushrooms, stemmed, sliced 1/2 pound Mick Klug Farms’ asparagus, ends trimmed and cut into 1 inch segments 2 tbsp fresh Italian parsley, chopped 2 tsp grated lemon peel 1 tsp fresh chopped tarragon 2 tbsp mascarpone cheese 1/2 cup reserved pasta water Grated Pecorino Romano for garnish Salt & pepper to taste

Cook pasta in pot of boiling salted water until just tender. Drain, reserving 1/2 cup of the pasta cooking liquid.

Meanwhile, add 2 tablespoons of olive oil to a large pan over high heat. Add mushrooms, salt and pepper and sauté until soft, approximately 5 minutes. If mushrooms have absorbed all of the olive oil, add the remaining tablespoon of olive oil to the pan. Add asparagus, shallot, and garlic and sauté until the asparagus turns vibrant green, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat.

Add 1/4 cup pasta water, parsley, lemon zest, tarragon, and pasta. Toss to coat and add mascarpone. If needed, add more pasta water by the tablespoonful. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Garnish with Pecorino Romano cheese. Rendered Pancetta can be substituted for olive oil.  

The Chicago Green City Market outdoor season will run May 4 through October 29, 2011, every Wednesday and Saturday from 7am to 1pm. The outdoor market is located at the south end of Lincoln Park between Clark and Stockton Drive.

[thechicagovore-blog]

Beer of the Week: Iron Works Alt by Metropolitan Brewing

Just released during the last week onto the Chicago craft beer scene, Iron Works Alt by Metropolitan Brewing is the Ravenswood brewery’s newest full-time beer. In what is turning into a battle of craft beer one-upmanship these days, Brewers Doug and Tracy Hurst eschew this trend, instead choosing to bring some overdue restraint to the party with this immensely sessionable altbier (think brown ale) at 5.3% ABV. It pours a clear, brilliant amber and on the nose aromas reminiscent of soft pretzel floods the senses. Similarly on the palate, the pleasantly doughy flavor, with a touch of caramel sweetness carries through. Iron Works finishes dry, with the spicy, above average hop profile for the style, providing a nice crisp bitterness that begs for another taste.

[thechicagovore-blog]

Ampersand Tour: Owen & Engine

Finding the latest gastropub has become pretty easy these days. Look for an ampersand in the name and it’s a near guarantee that the wait staff will be clad in flannel, the provenance of your food will be prominently placed on the menu, and the only beer pouring will be thoughtfully curated craft – my ideal imbibing and dining destination. Owen & Engine in Logan Square asserts itself among the leaders in the current wave of ampersand laden establishments sprouting up in Chicago.

While waiting for our table (no reservations), we passed the time at the bar where certified Cicerone Elliot Beire expertly, yet very approachably, walked us through what was pouring on the four – yes four – beer engines. Even in Chicago’s most prominent beer bars, cask ale is a novelty; here they are passionate about it. As a matter of principle, I always get my first pint from the hand pull to support a pub’s commitment to real ale. Shortly into our second pint we were seated upstairs where the dark wood and damask wallpaper contributes to the ambiance and exudes coziness.

Our dinner entrees included the astonishingly light and greaseless batter-fried haddock flown in fresh daily from the North Atlantic and the Slagel Farm’s burger served with caramelized onions on a potato bun. The burger here is delivered without traditional accoutrements as to not distract from the custom blend of brisket, chuck, and short rib, which results in one of the “beefiest,” umami laden, burgers I have ever had the pleasure of tasting. Admittedly a bit out of the way and on an odd corner, Owen & Engine elevates humble pub food without being a scenester’s paradise, making the journey well worth it.

Owen & Engine, 2700 N Western Ave., Chicago, IL

[thechicagovore-blog]

Chicago Chef Week: 2011 James Beard Nominee Participants

I have to admit, Chicago Chef Week sort of snuck up on me. Underway since this past Sunday and running through Saturday, March 26th, Chef Week offers diners a 3 course prix-fixe dinner for $33 ($22 lunch also available) very reminiscent of the recently concluded Restaurant Week. From my perspective, Chef Week provides a wallet friendly way to savor the cuisine of the Chicago-based finalists for the 2011 James Beard Foundation Awards announced yesterday. 

Best Chef Great Lakes: Paul Virant (Vie & Perennial)

Outstanding Chef: Paul Kahan (Avec, Big Star, Blackbird, The Publican)

Outstanding Pastry Chef: Mindy Segal (Hot Chocolate), Patrick Fahy (Blackbird)

Outstanding Restaurant Graphics: The Publican

OpenTable reservations are quickly filling up, which makes Avec, with 2010 Best Chef Great Lakes winner Koren Grieveson at the helm, an attractive alternative.

For a full list of 2011 Chef Week participating restaurants click here.

[thechicagovore-blog]

In the Kitchen: Chocolate Banana Bread

Michael Pollan Food Rule #39: Eat all the junk food you want as long as you cook it yourself.

Look – I know – it’s awkward to have the first recipe of this blog attributed to Tyler Florence. I generally relegate him to the same celebrity chef camp as Rocco DiSpirito, et al., ravenous not for food, but more time in front of the cameras. That aside, this truly is the ultimate banana bread. Certainly not traditional with the cocoa and chocolate added, this banana bread is versatile enough to be enjoyed with a cup of coffee in the morning or with a scoop of vanilla ice cream in the evening.

The Ultimate Chocolate Banana Bread

Recipe courtesy of Tyler Florence

Ingredients: 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened, plus more for the pan 2 cups all-purpose flour 3/4 cup sugar 1/4 cup cocoa powder 1 1/2 tsp baking powder 1 tsp kosher salt 4 oz bittersweet chocolate, melted 2 large eggs 3 very ripe bananas 1 tsp vanilla extract

Instructions: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 9 by 5-inch pan. Mix together the flour, sugar, cocoa powder, baking powder, and salt. In another bowl, cream the butter until lightened then beat in the chocolate, eggs, bananas, and vanilla. Stir in the dry ingredients just until combined. Pour the batter into the pan and bake until a toothpick stuck into the center of the bread comes out almost clean, 50 to 60 minutes; do not over bake. Transfer the pan to a cooling rack and let stand for a minimum of 15 minutes before slicing.

[thechicagovore-blog]

Perhaps released as a reward for enduring a particularly harsh Windy City winter, Half Acre dropped Ambrosia, a limited-run wheat beer brewed with oranges and hibiscus last Wednesday. Ambrosia pours a hazy orange with a crimson blush credited to the inclusion of hibiscus. The hibiscus carries through into the aroma and taste where it adds a floral and herbal spiciness which is complemented by the citrus flavor imparted by the oranges. The ale finishes with a cranberry-like bitterness, no doubt the interplay of the dried flower and the signature hop forward profile Half Acre is known for. Overall, Ambrosia’s light body makes for a refreshing, if not somewhat sessionable beer, that begs for the warmer days ahead.

[thechicagovore-blog]

Craft Beer: The Other 'Green' Beer

I’ll spare you the sermon on the merits of craft beer versus green-dyed (formerly yellow) fizzy macro beer if you chose to indulge in the latter on St. Patrick’s Day. This type of pontificating is counterproductive to the advocacy of the craft and leads to the pretentiousness that plagues the wine industry. Just know that you’re missing out on an American revolution led by passionate artisans who are producing a product with infinitely more character than lowest common denominator beer brewed by the behemoths.

Next March 17th, I implore you to shift your consumption habits from green to ‘green’ beer by supporting your local brewery. Although there are still only a fraction of the number of breweries operating in Chicago as there were at the turn of the last century, accessibility to quality and distinctive beers from the likes of Goose Island, Half Acre, or Metropolitan, has never been greater in the Windy City.

By supporting locally brewed beer, you are supporting the local economy, helping a nascent beer culture flourish, while minimizing the environmental impact and delivering you the freshest product possible.  It’s a win-win.

[thechicagovore-blog]

Welcome!

Hi, I’m Mike – the mouth and mind behind The Chicagovore. A Detroit native who took the long route to Chicago through Los Angeles, I consider myself well acquainted with Chicago’s dynamic gastronomic and craft beer scene and am eager to share my unique perspective.

 Cube dwelling consultant by day, I express my creativity in the kitchen by night. I take immense pleasure in handcrafting meals from scratch – why is it considered unconventional to do so these days? I’m lucky enough to have a wife who considers bone marrow amongst her favorite foods, but the best thing she makes is reservations.

Call me a “foodie,” “gourmand,” “glutton;” choose your euphemism. I subscribe to the Pollan/Bittman school of thought, a proud member of the new American food movement – a holistic thinker and conscious eater – not part of some privileged caste of society. I have a deep appreciation for the provenance of my food, but please don’t confuse that passion for elitism. While Alinea’s black truffle explosion may have been an epiphany, I find a flawlessly executed Chicago-style hot dog just as satisfying.

I am a self proclaimed beer nerd, an advocate, a member of the burgeoning Chicago craft beer community with a penchant for seeking out new beers and new styles

On the docket for 2011? Reinvigorating my passion for homebrewing, venturing into the world of homemade encased meats, and perhaps even some urban gardening on the balcony.

Oh, and I couldn’t agree with Anthony Bourdain more, “I love anything — anything — to do with pork."