'A Real-Life Dawes' : Musings on Hell Bent, Witchcraft and the Sorcery of Cooking
Thereâs a line in Leigh Bardugoâs Hell Bent when the protagonist, Alex, realises that sheâs been underestimating Pamela Dawes, her colleague and sort-of friend. Gathered after a particularly gruelling day - itâs a âsaving the world before lunchâ sort of book - Alex looks at Pamela as she prepares and presents food for all the team and realises that she is, in fact, powerful. Surrounded by ghosts, curses, demons and prophesies Alex has never stopped to realise that there was a witch in her own house, all along: one quietly helping and healing through the sorcery of cooking.Â
I love Pamela Dawes. It was one of the best days of my life when, at a Leigh Bardugo fan event in February 2023, the excited twenty-one year olds beside me in the queue quickly christened me âa real life Dawes.â âSheâs even got snacks!â one cried as, concerned by the fact that none of them had remembered to eat lunch, I found granola bars in my bag and firmly offered them to the group. When I finally reached Bardugoâs signing table, I happily mentioned the comment and she was kind enough to see how much it had meant to me and continue the hype.Â
âOh my god, yes! Youâve got the hair!â
 Itâs wasnât just the hair, or the granola bars, or general lack of glossy femininity. Dawes is about my age, the same gap in years between her and the other characters in the book as there was between me and the twenty-one year olds in the queue. She complains about blood stains not coming out of clothes and rashly made plans which hinge too much on optimistic bravery and not enough on pragmatic strategy. And when the heroes limp home having heeded none of her sensible advice, she makes them hot chocolate. If itâs a particularly bad day she adds an extra marshmallow.Â
Itâs not surprising that Alex, the main character in the Ninth House series, takes a whole book and a half to realise that Dawes is magical. Dawes is quietly anxious; Dawes is quietly sad; Dawes is quietly lost. Dawes is, overall, quiet. A woman who has gotten lost inside the depths of academia and academic promise and wants to stay there, isolated and safe. To a brash, bold survivor like Alex, Dawes seems weak. Someone who hides, even from herself. But by the end of Hell Bent, there is the promise of more. Dawes is, finally, beginning to realise her potential.
I lived in London for seven years. For those seven years, I didnât really cook. There just wasnât time, and besides, cooking just didnât seem appealing when I was constantly on the edge of nausea. A mixture of travel sickness, tiredness and stress meant that I never felt well, my upset stomach such a constant that I stopped even noticing it. It was only when a colleague of mine described the symptoms of her chemotherapy treatment and I realised it was what I pretty much felt like all the time in my day to day life that the reality of the situation truly hit.
This isnât working.Â
I moved out of London soon after, but then: 2020.Â
I tried to use all my free time in my family home to get back into cooking - Iâd loved cooking as a teenager, surely it was possible to learn to love it once more - but the nausea remained. Itâs not much fun coming up with new recipes when you have to lie in bed for two hours afterwards with debilitating IBS.
 September came and went. I moved into my new flat in Aberdeen; I started a Masters course, first in person and then online when the University gave up and moved the degree fully onto Zoom after Christmas break.Â
First one person dropped out, then two. By the end of the Masters I was the only full-time student left.Â
Still, I tried to cook.Â
As someone with more food intolerances than would seem physiologically possible, my only chance of eating nice food is to make nice food. It felt like failure after failure. Pesto and pasta would work for a while; then it would make me ill. One week Iâd be able to eat feta; the next it would give me acid reflux. Alone in my flat, lost in the depths of academia and hiding from even myself, I despaired at my situation.Â
Someone who loved food, cursed to feel continually poisoned by it.Â
Still, I tried to cook.Â
A year went by, then two.Â
I went to see a health specialist, who advised that along with the long, long list of foodstuffs Iâd independently realised I couldnât eat - âyouâre the second most severe case Iâve seen in twelve yearsâ- I also should avoid starch, and anything fermented. I stopped battling with tofu. I cut down on gherkins. (I refuse to not eat any gherkins. A woman needs reasons to get up in the morning.) Gradually, lopsidedly, in a very non-linear sort of way, trying to cook slowly turned into cooking.Â
There are no guarantees with food. There is still the chance that a meal which worked fine yesterday will make me feel ill today. That bread is one day off? You tried to eat that cheese whilst upset about something? Forget about it. But as my life slowly levels, my ability to digest, to enjoy food seems to be slowly levelling with it. And, as it does, something else is slowly coming to the surface too.
To be a hedge witch is to be a witch alone. Classic descriptions of the witch type are âsomeone who practices rituals like tarot [âŠ] or has some physic ability [âŠ] a wise woman living on her own.â The definition, as found on Mabon Houseâs website, expands to describe this woman ensuring the well being of those she loves though imbuing magical thoughts into everyday small tasks. Such as cooking.Â
If someone was to ask me what sort of witch I aspired to be - not a topic of conversation which comes up very often, it has to be said - I would probably say hedge witch through sheer necessity. Thereâs not exactly a ready made, non-gender essentialist, queer-friendly coven knocking at my door ready to go, after all. But thatâs not the only reason.
As this settling continues and I level out into my late twenties, as I finally have the space to sort through the baggage and trauma Iâve somehow acquired in the last ten years, itâs a relief to find truer versions of myself buried down deep under all the masks, personas and lies.Â
The world wasnât ready for me, aged 17. It wasnât gentle. It wasnât kind.Â
So many things were lost in my desperate scrabble for survival.Â
Cooking wasnât the only thing to fall through the gaps.Â
As I sit here writing this, however, I am a woman who is in the process of reclaiming herself. The reclaiming isnât finished. Iâm not sure if reclaiming can ever be finished. But as I look at the dried garden mint hanging from the wall, the incense smoke in the air, the flickering candle on the altar and the kettle on the boil I know that I, just like Dawes, am beginning to step into my potential.
If food is a hedge witchâs power, then I am becoming powerful indeed. Friends who come round to my house are full of home-made snacks and herbal tea by the time they leave. My parents might not eat the same meals as me - itâs just easier for me to eat solo when they have dinner at 6pm and Iâm lucky if Iâve remembered about the concept of dinner by 8pm - but I often gift them little offerings, fresh from my own plate. A roast potato each, eaten with much delight. An unexpected batch of stewed apples cooked with cinnamon and nutmeg, enough for all three of us. This year, for the first time, Iâve volunteered myself as the cook for Christmas Day lunch.
When Bardugo wrote the character of Pamela Dawes, she wrote a character for all of us who arenât very good at remembering weâre the protagonists of our stories. Perhaps confidence, like mine, was forced out of us with blank looks and unkind jokes. Perhaps confidence wasnât something we were very good at to begin with. Itâs been a beautiful thing to see my own confidence grow this past year, every tray, pot and tin, every meal cooked, leading me back to my most magical self.
âYouâre a real life Dawes!â
Iâm beginning to think that those twenty-one year olds may have been right.Â












