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Devon Aoki POP (S/S 2010) ph. Sean & Seng

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Debbie Deitering, 1993 | © Mikael Jansson

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Jurgi Persoons spring—summer 2001.

His designs are quite extreme and can be disturbing and arouse controversy, yet this is what makes them fascinating. Slanting hems, tweed combined with snake skin, tartan checks with finely worked embroideries create a style which is on the verge of bad taste. But despite taking these risks, his clothes are not ugly. The way in which his clothes are presented, especially in photographs, reflects the mood of his collection, leaving a forceful and unforgettable impression.

With each new collection, Jurgi Persoons refers to human characteristics, sentiments, situations, convictions, radical attitudes and their emotional impact. His universe raises questions, rather than giving judgments.

Jurgi Persoons combines a naive sense of humour with aggressive contrasts. As he states it: “People’s aspirations for a certain ideal appearance often transpire through the mistakes they make in the search for that ideal, and that is exactly what interests me most, because their failing efforts often produce quite hyperrealistic images. It’s the tension between these imperfect attempt to create a certain image and that which is considered socially acceptable — that evokes strong reactions, like aversion or adoration.”

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A.F. Vandevorst spring—summer 1999.

For A.F. Vandevorst a garment that has been worn, has more ‘spirit’, more ‘soul’. An opinion they assimilated in their Spring-Summer 1999 collection by proposing clothes that look as if they have been slept in. The show took place in an old dormitory, and the clothes were presented by models sleeping in iron hospital beds. Lauded by the international press and fashion world, the duo received the Venus de la Mode award for most promising designer.

Hirofumi Kurino: Having seen a fashion show too many, I sometimes feel exhausted. It all seems a big waste to me then. I presume others must have the same feeling but still, they always seem ready for another show. I am fed up with this craze, this talk about fashion, the irresponsibility of journalists just chasing news. This ‘fashion for fashion’s sake’ is quite meaningless.

But there are moments of magic. Many people will agree with me when I mention the three A.F. Vandevorst shows, in 1998 and 1999. Knowing these were their first presentations, we were more than amazed; I felt healed, saved, rescued.

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Steven Meisel for Vogue Italia; So Chic, So Spectacular, 1998.

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1980s New York Street Style by Amy Arbus

Lesbian Couple, 8th Street (1981)

Joey Arias at Fiorucci, 58th Street and Lexington Avenue (1981)

Rasta Hair, David Hinds (c. 1982)

Madonna, St. Marks Place (1983)

Suspenders and Socks, Andre Walker and Pierre Francillon, 8th and MacDougal Streets (1983)

Flip Family (1984)

Hat and Men’s Tie, Miranda Pennell, Columbus Avenue (1984)

Tits Suit, Susanne Bartsch, Houston Street and West Broadway (1987)

Fingernail Extensions, 23rd Street and 8th Avenue (1988)

Key Dress, Liz Prince, Orchard Street (1989)

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Deborah Turbeville - Romeo Gigli, Mirabella Magazine, École des Beaux-Arts, Paris, 1989, from Deborah Turbeville: The Fashion Pictures (2011)

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From Issey Miyake’s collaboration with fashion photographer Yuriko Takagi during the 90’s for the international project Pleats Please Travel Through the Planet.