The Journal

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Does Your Suit Wear You?

Have you ever wondered why some men look so good in a suit and some look so…well…ordinary? 

In thinking of men who look great in a suit is usually best judged by a woman, the mind turns to men such as Daniel Craig, George Clooney and even Barack Obama.

A number of factors provide the required success appeal that only a suit gives a man.  There is no point spending money on a suit that is not tailored to begin with.  In getting a suit tailor made a gentleman can be sure of a precision fit that correctly forms around the body, hugging what it should and draping where it must. The correct line from shoulder to hem produces the appropriate male silhouette.  The correct lining, fabric and hem lengths create the look of success.  A tailor made suit offers the correct fabric weight, the correct yarn, the correct lining and hem lengths and the appropriate canvassed internal structure. Shoulder fittings and chest widths, back seam placement, arm hem length and jacket length are of vital importance. In addition to this, a tailor made shirt adds to the effect.

Wedding parties benefit from the precision measuring techniques, as no wedding photo should ever show one or two of the wedding party looking better in a suit than the others.  Every man will look good in a tailored suit.

At Suit Society, the fitting specialists have developed a specialization in creating a suit for a man of any size. Our members wear the suit and not the other way around.

Carry on Gentlemen

Suit Society

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Suit Lapels

Whether you’ve watched Suits and want to follow Harvey Specter into the world of peak lapels, you think the classic James Bond shawl lapel look is coming back into style or you simply admire Barney Stinson’s notched lapel suits, this article has sparked your interest for a reason. We will sum up the difference between the three for you.

Notch Lapel

The notch lapel is by far the most common lapel you will find on a gentleman’s suit jacket. Like your white and blue business shirts, this is the staple suit every gentleman should have for work, interviews, formal events and general casual wear.

If you get away with wearing skinny ties and like the slimmer look, the Society recommends getting a slimmer notch lapel (roughly 2.5 inches). This will best compliment your modern look!

Recommended for: single-breasted suits and sports coats.

Peak Lapel

The peak lapel is what we at the Society call the ‘boss’ lapel. While the peak lapel looks dapper at black tie events, it will be sure to turn heads in the office. As such, the peak lapel evidences confidence, acquiring its ‘boss’ status. It is great for gentlemen looking to impress.

Recommended for: double-breasted suits and pinstriped single-breasted suits.

Shawl Lapel

Understanding the shawl lapel is very easy. It is reserved, and the highly recommended lapel, for tuxedos and dinner jackets.

Variations

The Society offers variations of the three lapels listed above, such as that found in the photo below. Ask our stylists for more information if you are feeling a bit adventurous.

Carry on Gentlemen

Suit Society

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Vent Tips

Think back to the legionary cavalry of the Roman Equestrian Order… there is one style that holds true today… side vented suits. Side vents are found in duplicity on the back panel of the suit jacket. As indicated earlier, they provide a generous range of motion. This allows gentlemen to sit in the captain’s chair on their speedboat, ride a camel down the Silk Road in China or even skydive into a volcano (not recommended) without having to worry about creasing their suit jacket.

The central vent is indicative of an American cut suit jacket. This is where there is one vent found in the middle of the back panel on suit jacket. The Roman Equestrian Order didn’t wear these… so we don’t recommend them.  But, we do admit that they look good on less formal attire (sports coats and casual suits).

Then you have the ventless option. These provide a very slimming fit and look great when standing. But if you plan to sit down at some point and value comfort and creaseless attire, then steer away from this option. Recommended for tuxedos or for the performing arts.

Carry on Gentlemen

Suit Society

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The Suit Dictionary

In today’s global economy, the ability to speak the old English language of “suits” is imperative for any aspiring or established gentleman. 

  Bespoke is a common synonym for “tailor-made” or “customised” and basically describes men’s tailored clothing that is made to fit to their measurements. These must be contrasted with those ghastly ready-to-wear, or off-the-rack, suits.

The Breast of a suit may be either single, with the suit jacket having one column of buttons with a slight overlap in fabric, or double, with the front of the suit jacket overlapping and having two parallel columns of buttons.

Canvas refers to exactly that, a canvas fabric that is lightly sewn to the wool fabric shell. Want to know the difference between full and half canvas? Read our article on suit jacket construction: http://bit.ly/19TTPUE.

The Hem refers to the act of turning under and sewing the edge of a piece of clothing. Turning over and sewing the end of the hem of your suit pants (yes…the opposite) is what would give your pants a cuff (if you so desire).

Kissing Buttons refers to buttons that touch and overlap (romantic).

The Lapel refers to the part of the suit jacket that is folded below the collar. There are broadly three types of lapels. We will give you some simple rules. Don the notch lapel if you are a conservative gent, the peak lapel if you are the boss, or the shawl lapel if you are wearing a tuxedo.

Lining refers to the layer of material covering the inside surface of the suit jacket and pants. Wear a bit of colour and express your individuality.

A Pleat refers to a type of fold formed by doubling the fabric back upon itself and fixing it in place. Pleats may be characterised as forward, where they open toward the zipper, or reverse, where they open towards the pockets.

Super wool ('S') indicates the fineness of the wool fibre used in the making of the garment. The higher the count (Super 140s), the finer the wool fibre used.

Vents refer to the opening on the back of your suit jacket. Suits may have a central vent, side vents or even be vent-less. Unless you’re heavily involved with horseback riding, in which case side vents are a must, the choice comes down to individual preference.

Carry on Gentlemen

Suit Society

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Suit Care

A quality tailored suit is of timeless design, not being affected by the passage of time or changes in fashion. However, suits do not realise perpetual succession and must be appropriately cared for.

All gentlemen are guilty of being indolent in properly hanging their suit up after a hard day in the office, failing to properly use a napkin while dining and consequently dry-clean their suits too frequently.  Unfortunately, these bad habits inevitably deteriorate our suits fabric and construction.

Step 1: Choosing the Appropriate Fabric

Woollen suits with a thread-count of Super 150 and finer are generally a lot thinner and lighter. However, this causes the fabric to become much more fragile, wearing out exponentially faster than coarser wool. If you do not want to spend a small fortune maintaining your suit, look for woollen fabrics with a thread-count between Super 120 and 140.

Step 2: Store your Suit Properly

Deter from hanging your suit in your over crowded closest. Please hang on a separated suit rack. This is imperative in allowing the suit to maintain its shape and will allow the suit to air out effectively. Even more importantly, make sure your suit is hanged in a ventilated garment bag. Hanging your suit on a cedar hanger is further recommended, as this absorbs moisture and repels moths.

So, as a quick recap – hang your suits separately and place in a ventilated garment bag on a cedar hanger.

Step 3: Repel Moths

Moths can turn your woollen suit into their lunch. As indicated earlier, moths are repelled by cedar. Cedar can be best used by hanging your suit on a cedar hanger and/or by placing cedar blocks in your suit pockets. Otherwise, the easiest method is to make sure your closet is well hoovered and is not housing a family of two hundred moths.

Step 4: Cancel your Dry Cleaning Appointment

We understand that gentlemen get a certain confidence from dry-cleaning their suit prior to a job interview or formal occasion. However, if your suit is not dirty then it does not need to be dry-cleaned. The chemicals involved in dry cleaning can wear out and deteriorate your suits fabric. It is recommended that you limit the dry cleaning of your suit to once per quarter.

However, if your suit is noticeably wrinkled or you really need that confidence boost pre-occasion, then it is recommended that your suit be pressed. This allows for the crispness without the chemicals.

Carry on Gentlemen

Suit Society

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The Perfect Suit Jacket: Construction

Choosing the perfect suit jacket can be overwhelming. It is an important piece of attire. It can be dressed up with a three-piece, or dressed down with chinos.

There are three essential ingredients for a quality suit jacket: (1) fit; (2) fabric; and (3) construction.

Broadly, there are three different types of suit jacket construction: (1) full-canvassed; (2) half-canvassed; and (3) fused. You know the price difference. You’ve heard circulating rumours about which is best suited for you. But this article is aimed at demystifying the construction you really need.

Carry on Gentlemen

Suit Society

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The Perfect Suit Jacket: Fit

There are three essential ingredients for a quality suit jacket: (1) fit; (2) fabric; and (3) construction.

This article focuses on fit. A custom tailored suit is crucial to guarantee the perfect fit. The Suit Society takes twenty measurements, from your neck to your ankle, to ensure the perfect fit and to guarantee you look dapper and well fitted for any occasion.

Whether you are trying to become more informed for your next suit purchase, or trying to figure out whether your current collection is in dire need of being re-tailored, knowing the four fit components of a suit is fundamental.

1 – The shoulder pads must end with your shoulders. The best tailor’s are not able to retailor the shoulder.

2 – The top button must not fall below your belly button.

3 – The jacket sleeve should be inline with the bottom of your jacket.

4 – The jacket sleeve should end at the base of your thumb, allowing for half an inch of your shirt cuff to be visible.

  Carry on Gentlemen

Suit Society

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Welcome to The Journal

We possess a refined philosophy. We believe your suit should be tailored not only to your measurements, but also to your individuality. To express your individuality, it is imperative that you are fully informed on all things suits. The Journal is the means of achieving this end. We will provide you with the knowledge and inspiration for you to truly and fully express yourself through your personal style. We are here to help you.

We will be updating The Journal regularly with fresh content. Please examine. Place in the custody of your fellow gentlemen. You will not be displeased.

Welcome to The Journal.