The Surf Nerds

Surf + Nerd = Stoke! Check out the blog.

[thesurfnerds]

the wave

Waves are absolutely without a doubt 100% critical to surfing. Ever try surfing not a wave (yeah, that’s not surfing, it’s called standing on your surfboard in the water, and, a word to the wise, can be dangerous to other surfers, speaking from experience).

Anyway, this post will cover everything you need to know about a wave, in a particularly nerdy way: a diagram! 

Check it out, and spout some of your worldly wave wisdom to the random surfer next to you in the lineup. Just kidding, maybe don’t do that. 

So, imagine your paddling out and you see this wave in the ocean:

This is a beautiful wave, but strangely, it closely resembles a screensaver... Anyway, it works for this.

So you see this wave while you’re paddling out to the lineup, and you need to find a way to best get over, under or around it to get all the way out. This is just one thing knowing your stuff about waves can help you with. 

On another note, imagine you are awesome and you want to catch this wave. Where do you paddle for it? When should you start paddling? These are other important factors of surfing that can be helped by knowing about the force of nature that allows you to pursue your passion. 

Here it is, the long awaited DIAGRAM! Study it closely:

Let’s start at the top:

Lip/Crest

The crest is the highest point on the wave. When a surfer says, "That wave is cresting, broski” it means it is breaking. The crest is peaking, then falling down. Sometimes the area near the crest or forming the crest is referred to as the lip. It sort of looks like a lip *mwah* and is the part of the wave that “breaks. Try to avoid getting caught under the lip. Waves break when the swell is over the ocean floor and the depth is less than the height of the wave.

Face

The face is the flat part of the wave that slopes down. Generally, you drop down the face. It is smooth and considered the green part of the wave. You may also know the face as the shoulder. Just like the lip of the wave actually resembles a lip (sort of ;)), the shoulder is actually reminiscent of a shoulder. It is the smaller, sloping, and unbroken part of the wave. 

Trough

The trough is the opposite of the crest. It is the lowest point on the wave. It is sometimes called the pocket. The power is generated from the trough, so that is why surfers generally stay in front of the trough and the whitewater after dropping down the face. 

Height

This sounds simple, but different regions of the world use different measurements for height. So be careful when travelling for the system used to measure the wave. And in case you were wondering, 5 ft is considered head high, generally. Other comparisons are ankle high (about 1 ft), knee high (2ft) waist high, chest high, etc. Oh, and triple overhead ;). 

So that is the basic rundown of the wave. Let’s look at it from one more perspective: 

This shows the front view of a set, as well as a few additional parts of waves. Have questions or insight? Please comment below. 

[thesurfnerds]

happy summer!

Happy summer! Happy fourth! Happy WAVES!!!!!!!!! 

Yes, all those exclamation points were necessary. 

Well, it’s been a while, fellow nerds. We’ve been busy on our boards since all these south swells started coming through ;). *cough cough* we may have gone surfing six times in three days last week *cough cough* 

But not to worry! We’re back on schedule with a lot of summer -y posts on the queue and ready to go. From summer playlists and surf adventure ideas to a nerdy wave diagram (finally, what you’ve all been waiting for!), prepare for one SurfNerd filled summer. 

To kick it off, scroll down for an update on our lives these past few months, documented in photos. Enjoy! ♥

Blue sky, blue sea. We had a fun day on the waves after getting our cardio walking down this hill.

Sometimes, a little walk on the beach will do the trick.

You can never take too many pictures of sunsets (or maybe you can…)

Sea foam, turquoise, and spring.

This may not be surfing, but who can resist a good fruit water?

Sunlight. 

Hope you enjoyed our little update and looking forward to our summer posts! Stayed tuned, ♥ SurfNerds

[thesurfnerds]

Check out our work in progress, a CONTENTS page on the blog.

[thesurfnerds]

board guide

Here it is, the long-promised board guide (yes, we’re sorry, it’s been a long time :() 

Buying a board can be tricky business, whether it is your first board or your tenth. Typically, you can’t test-surf it (that would be awesome, but we can all see what could go wrong there...). Besides, let’s just say boards aren’t cheap and you need to be IN LOVE with it before you hand over your life’s savings. When you walk into the first surf shop you visit, chances are you’ll just be frothing to look at all the rows of smooth, pretty, fresh, boards. This is said speaking from experience ;). So, where on earth do you start?

photo creds to SurfNerds

1. Ask yourself these questions: 

Do I want a custom board, a new board, or a used board? 

Do I want a longboard, shortboard, or other?

What kind of fin set up, thickness/length, and nose do I want?

For those nerds new to the illustrious and esteemed sport of surfing, a custom board is a board made specially for you by a shaper. They make it to your exact specifications and what they think will suit you best. Often, a seasoned surfer/board buyer will have a regular shaper that they use to make all their boards. Note: this is the most expensive option due to the fact that it is an artistically handmade board just for you :). 

A new board is what it sounds like: you go to a surf shop, see a shiny, beautiful surfboard on a rack with its sisters, fall in love with it, and buy it. Most likely it is hand shaped, but it is made for the general public. 

Lastly, a used board is a good idea for those SurfNerds with a thin wallet or just looking to save some dough for that surfari you’re planning to take later this year. It is also a good idea for beginners to buy a used board because if they aren’t going to be dedicated to the sport, it’s better to start off with a cheaper, less quality board. 

However, used boards can be a great decision for anyone. Last year, I actually got a hold on a gorgeous 9′ in almost perfect quality for cheap. It’s my favorite board and I absolutely love it. Just check your used board for any critical dings or imperfections. These could detriment your ride or be dangerous. However, of they can easily be fixed (check out our article surfboard surgery: a guide to ding repair for helpful tips and tricks on this). 

When you’ve decided on what board you want to invest in, decide what kind of board you want. If you actually have no idea, or just want a little fun, check out our article  buying your board for a QUIZ! 

Generally, after you have gone surfing enough on rentals and friends boards, you will have a rough idea if you enjoy and want to pursue gliding or ripping (and if you can’t figure out what we mean by that, gliding=longboard ripping=shortboard). However, the quiz is tried and tested for a laugh. 

Finally, and more specifically, you should know about the fins, thickness, length, and nose of your board. If you are a seasoned surfer, chances are you will know exactly what you want in terms of the above, but if you don’t you can always ask the surf shop attendant; they will be happy to help. 

Different styles of fins can affect your ride. For example, if you want ot go vintage/classic and glide stable-y (for want of a better word) along hanging ten, you may want to try out a single fin. Better yet, get a board with removable fins so you can try out multiple styles. Also, it is bad news if your glassed in fin breaks off. 

Even withing the longboard shortboard categories, there are different lengths to pick from. If you are a larger person or beginner shortboarder, try a longer shortboard (I own a 6′6″) if you want a more maneuverable longboard, go for a shorter one (we own, among many, an 8′2″). Similarly, greater thickness means greater stability and vice versa. 

Nose also affects your ride (take a peek at our article  knowing your nose). Tail is also a factor, so look at  our tail guide. 

And if you really can’t choose what board to buy, always remember, the board chooses the wizard. 

xo SurfNerds

[thesurfnerds]

buying your board

As promised, here is our board  quiz to help you buy the best board for your level, style, and local break. 

Unless you are a seasoned pro at purchasing boards—or sometimes even if you are—it can be hard to pick out just the right one. So, we have drawn up a fun little quiz that you can a. do to find out what board suits you or b. do if you’re board ;) (our sources say the latter is more commonly true). But who doesn’t love a good quiz?

What Board Is Right For You? 

1. You prefer to surf...

a. to charge the outside!

b. to slide and glide. 

c. to have fun with my friends. 

d. to try out new spots and styles. 

2. Your favorite spot is...

a. the fast little beach break that’s also fun for just hanging out. 

b. the easy right hand point break that fires on storm swells. 

c. the beginner beach that produces lots of little rollers. 

d. any new, interesting spot that has unique waves. 

3. Your favorite trick to perform is...

a. a snappy cutback.

b. hang ten, duh. 

c. a mid-wave shaka. 

d. a crazy fins first that rotates. 

4. Your dream day at the beach is...

a. all my friends surfing a fun break and a good tan on the sand.

b. an all day beach day: surf till lunch, surf till dinner. 

c. a drive to the beach with my buddies then an afternoon surfing. 

d. a day exploring a secret spot. 

5. Pick a mind surf...

a. check out that ssw...

b. mind. surfing. every. wave. right. now.

c. hehe. everything about this picture...

d. hmm... how exactly does one go about making this drop?

Mostly a’s: 

a shortboard is most likely good for your surfing style. You enjoy fun, quick, waves and performing snappy tricks. Maybe you’ll be the next Steph Gilmore...

Mostly b’s: 

a longboard mostly fits your smooth, elegant style. You love to glide easily and enjoy the beauty of the ocean while you’re at it. 

Mostly C’s: 

a funboard is a good board for you. You are not to serious about surfing and enjoy beaching with your friends just as much as hitting the waves.

Mostly D’s:

Custom board experiments are more your speed. You don’t really fit the description and love trying new things and branching out. 

Hope you enjoyed! Board guide coming soon. 

[thesurfnerds]

gettin’ the gear: summer must-haves

IT”S ALMOST SUMMER YAY! (Yes, all caps were necessary) 

To most surfers, summer means longer days at the beach, fun-size summer swells, warmer water, warmer air, relaxation on the sand,  ice cream, and general good vibes. 

So, us SurfNerds have obliged to compile a list of all the summer gear you need to fulfill these requirements and have a spectacularly nerdy summer. 

Here we go!

A new stick 

Start off the summer with a new board to glide or rip the local break on. Check out our board guide//quiz (oooh quizzes!) coming next week. In the meantime, we suggest Serra Surfboards for a modern, female, twist on boards of any range, Sakal, speaking from experience, this is a great, classic, shaper, and INT if you’re into the foamboard kinda life but don’t want one from Costco. 

Buying second hand or making friends with someone who possesses a nice quiver is a good, economical, way to try out new shapes too. 

Sun protection

Don’t want to be lobster red, but don’t want to have a creepy zinc-covered face either? We hear ya. Check out the following brands for effective sun protection while still maintaining your natural skin color! (That is, not tomato or zinc color).

Vertra : We’re just loving Vertra this summer! It works extremely effectively against harmful sun exposure and you can even wear it as a foundation for a little extra protection on non-beach days. Also, it comes in a neat little roller stick for easy application. 

Sun Bum : Gotta love the Bum. Smells great (like bananas) rolls on easily, and keeps your skin safe! Sunbum comes in multiple levels of SPF and produces stick, cream, and even lip balm! 

Round Towels

Yes! It may be a new trend, but for a reason... these boho towels are cute. 

Check out Joycie + Jules , The Beach People, and Vagabond Beach for some fashionable yet functional towels perfect for a day at the beach or draping in some indy way for an Instagram pic. 

Or better yet, visit Sand Cloud for gorgeous beach towels created with a purpose: to protect marine life and the ocean you love! 

http://surfgirlbeachboutique.com/collections/home/products/the-original-jules-round-beach-towel

This is a beautiful roundie from Joycie + Jules. 

Indo Boards

Get Indo It! Indo boards are great balance training and a whole lot of fun. They can also help you get that toned core you’ve been wanting ;). I have one and have found it to be very beneficial to my surfing and even  something to do when you’re board bored (haha get it?). Check out this lovely Endless Summer themed limited edition—it’s a must have for this summer. 

http://surfgirlbeachboutique.com/collections/lifestyle/products/copy-of-indo-board-pink

Beach Bags

Have you ever wondered what to do with your keys, towels, wetsuits, hat, wax and other surfing essentials besides throw them into a ancient bag you found in the back of the closet? Okay, maybe not an ancient bag you found in the closet, but you gotta have a fashionable beach bag for the summer. Check out Rip Curl, Roxy, or Ravinala for fashionable and functional beach bags that your belongings won’t get lost in. 

http://www.ravinala.co.uk/collections/bags-1/products/breton

Wax

Well, yeah. But you might as well get some eco-friendly, super effective, really cool wax like Pom Pom  while you’re at it. 

Obviously, surfing depends on the ocean, so reducing your footprint by using eco-friendly wax is a great way to show you’re thankful for the ocean. 

Would ya look at those nice sticky bumps...

 http://www.iheartpompom.com/store/c1/Featured_Products.html

So there you have it. 

A guide to all the stuff you’ll need for summer. Comment any other products or deals below. :)

[thesurfnerds]

dawnie daze

A dawn patrol: sometimes the only way to fit in a good surf during a long, busy, crowded, or windy week. 

To further explain, the early morning hours are sometimes the only time during the week when you are able to hit the beach for a surf sesh. If it’s summer at your local break, the morning might be the only time of day there’s a square foot of room for you and your board. And lastly, it is almost always glassy during winter mornings. *Sigh. 

But the difficult thing is getting your butt out of bed in the morning. 

(btw...I wonder why all my gifs are Lilo and Stitch...)

So— you may be wondering: “Yeah, yeah, thank you for informing me of all the benefits of dawnies but no this isn’t gonna happen”. 

Not to worry; SurfNerds to the rescue!

I usually go on a dawnie about once every other week or more, so I have lots of experience in the painful coldness and damp wetsuits that are generally associated with the word. 

On the other hand, there is nothing like watching the sunrise while out in the water. 

So here’s how to do it: 

The Night Before: 

Prepare everything- it’ll take five minutes—but save you the trouble of stumbling around the dark house at 5am, trying not to wake anyone up but making every loud noise possible. Put your wetsuit in its bag, load your board, prepare whatever you’re going to eat for breakfast (unless it’s cereal, in which case, wait until morning), and set out your bathing suit and jacket. 

Set your alarm- well duh, but seriously, remember. 

Check the report- at least on my report of choice, it’s often not up before around 7am. So, make sure the conditions are ideal the night before so you don’t wake up early for nothing! 

The Morning Of:

Bring hot cocoa- it helps, no joke. The thought of a steaming thermos of hot chocolate in your van when you get out of the water is enough to get you through the toe-numbing-ness of winter/spring dawnies. 

Invest in booties for the winter months- This past winter, I actually never wore booties, but there were a few January dawn patrols that I regretted skipping them. 

Wear a watch- so you’re not late for your morning shift. 

At the Beach: 

Watch the waves- in case the report from the night before was changed.

Grin and bear it- you can do it! In the summer, it’s not bad at all, but in the winter, unless you live in tropical paradise, it can be pretty iffy. Meaning very chilly. But once you start paddling and catching waves, it’s hard to stop! 

Reap the rewards!- Glassy water, uncrowded lineup, a fresh start to your day, and surfing into the sunrise....What’s not to love? 

Just go for it and comment any of your dawn patrol experiences below! 

[thesurfnerds]

hi again and SurfNerds news

In order of the title: Hi! 

It feels like it’s been so long since our last post; we neeeed to get back on schedule. We have devised a once-every-other-week article plan and regular tumblr postings here and there in between. 

So anyway, that’s what we have going for this month of April. 

So far this spring, we’ve actually hit it good with some swells, but today is gloomy and crumbly, so, the surf-every-day philosophy aside, it is the perfect day to sit down and get writing. 

Here are some pics from this spring:

Check out this cone marring the otherwise beautiful— and flat— sea. 

It’s blurry.

undah the sea.

nosy.

And finally, remember to check out our shop for some fresh gear. 

Thanks luvs and until next time! 

[thesurfnerds]

crash course

Here is another pun-in-the-title based article. But it’s an important question: what do to do if you crash? What do you do when someone crashes into you? Sadly, it’s bound to happen at some point, even if you’re extremely careful.  When the lineup gets crowded in the summer, there’s no telling what will happen. 

This is not a very good picture. But I’m probably about to wipe out, because I was holding the camera and filming at the same time I was surfing. 

Anyway, what to do when there’s a crash. 

I recently had a crash when neither party was at fault, but I somehow managed to collide with the crazy guy in the lineup. Not a good idea. 

Firstly, there are a few types of collisions:

•Sometimes, it’s obvious who is at fault. An oops-sorry-that-was-me (for want of a better name) is when you are at fault. In this case, it’s always best to take responsibility. Then there’s the time’s when you’re the victim and whoever was surfing that wave was not paying attention to where they were going. 

•Other times, you cant tell what happened, and it’s just a crazy collision. 

•Finally, there’s the (pick-a-number) car pileup. Must I explain this one? 

So how to deal with it? Here are the Do’s and Don’ts.

Do

Make sure you are okay. Check for any damage before carrying on.

Grab your board. If the collision is during a set, make sure you have a tight grip on your board. 

Make sure they are okay. Just a simple “are you alright?” will do. 

Apologize if you are at fault. What goes around comes around. 

Make sure your board is okay. It’s your baby, after all. 

If the human is not okay... Check to see the extent of the damage, then see what you can do. If it’s serious, contact medical help. 

If the board is not okay... Remove it from the water quickly to avoid water logging, and read our article about dings. Also, offer to pay if it’s the others. 

Shake it off! As long as no one (boards included) is hurt, good vibes all around. 

Don’t 

Go crazy. It never solves anything. 

Yell at the other person. Again, flying off the handle never helps. 

Apologize profusely even if you weren’t at fault. This can make you seem guilty even if you weren’t. If you were, then, yes, apologize. 

Paddle away if the other is hurt. Now that’s just plain mean. 

Just remember to look where you’re going, be cautious on crowded days, keep your cool-as-a-cucumber vibe in and out of the water, and you’ll be okay. 

Oh we forgot one thing: have fun!

[thesurfnerds]

winter waves

Welcome to winter. Cold water, small crowds, and big waves means winter to most surfers.

Empty lineup? Bring it on! Water less than sixty degrees? Nothing a 3/2mm wettie can’t fix. Big waves, on the other hand, can sometimes seem like a bit too much to handle. 

Especially when you feel like this going down a five foot drop: 

Wheee!

So what’re ya gonna do if you’re seriously suffering from not-surfing-everyday-withdrawal, but the long-term swell rolling through aren’t your favorite fun-size summer rollers? 

Unless of course you’re a big-wave charger and don’t mind taking a beating, or maybe you love that adrenaline rush of a steep drop, big waves can be intimidating. 

So here’s how to get your daily dose of surfing without too much fear. Who knows, maybe you’ll end up the next Cortez Bank charger. 

1. know before you go

It’ll take five minutes; check the report! Heed the Surfline slogan, and know before you go. Better to expect the big swell than be surprised when you arrive at the beach. That way you can be prepared for the wind speed and direction, swell height and direction, water temperature, and more.

2. watch the waves

Upon arriving at the beach, take a few minutes to sit down and watch the waves. In the true spirit of nerdiness, watch the direction they’re coming in, the length of the sets, the way they’re breaking, and channels where it could be easy to paddle out. 

3. time it right

Time your paddle out so you are on your board and paddling just at the end of a set. This way, you’re likely to have the advantage of the lull, and at most, catch the beginning of the next set. Better yet, paddle out in a channel or on the shoulder. 

4. be a buoy, if you must

Sometimes, just getting out past the impact zone on a big day is enough. If you’re feeling intimidated by the sets coming through and it took all you’ve got to paddle out, it’s okay to just sit there and watch. Hopefully, you’ll get up the courage to go for a wave, even it’s the smallest one of the day. However, always use your best judgement: when in doubt, don’t go out. 

5. take the drop

This is a timeless tip. Just go for it. Paddle hard, and don’t look back. It could be the best wave of your life. 

[thesurfnerds]

surfing into the new year

Happy New Year, SurfNerds!

It's officially page 3 of 365. Hopefully you got some surfing in there along with watching the ball drop. Us SurfNerds sure did!

Anyhoo, it's always good to start off the New Year with some resolutions that you can accomplish before the next year.

But we all know that sometimes it's hard to follow through, you forget, or straight up quit part way through the year when things aren't turning out the way you planned.

Seeing as you're reading a SurfNerds post, you are most likely a surfer and most likely made some surf-related resolutions. So we're here to help you fulfill those resolutions no matter what it takes.

You got this!

Here are three top tips to getting where you want to be in your surfing 2016.

1)) Remember!

Throughout the 365 days of the year, it's easy to forget the resolutions you made January 1st. Before New Years Day is over, record the goals you set. Write them in a journal, decorate a piece of paper and hang it on a bulletin, or jot a note and stick it on the fridge. It can be as simple as a sticky note or you can make it your masterpiece.

Here's an example, if you can get your handwriting that good (it's a font ;))

Then, just stick it somewhere you'll see it everyday and you're on the road to resolution. When you can visually see the goals you have set out to accomplish, you will feel more compelled to follow through. So get artsy!

2)) Get motivated

Make a plan for yourself. Write out each individual step you will take to complete your resolution. This way, you will feel more organized and know what to do each step of the way.

Here's another example.

To start, choose one resolution and elaborate on it. In a few sentences, describe what you will do each day to achieve the goal you set. Stick to it, and eventually you will no longer need an itinerary to help you fulfill your goal.

3)) Keep track of your progress

When all is said and done (and it's 2017), you will want to look back on the year and see all you have accomplished. Hopefully, you will have completed your resolution and can proudly reflect on your progress. A good way to do this is to keep a journal or planner and record once a month any notes on how you've stuck to your resolution.

This is a first-six-months example (btw it's completely fictitious, though it would be a good resolution). By keeping a log, you can see all you have improved, changes you should make, and other details.

Lastly, (the obvious one), don't give up! And if it's a surf-related resolution, then it shouldn't be too much of a strain to get out in the water and give it your all.

Cheers, and SurfNerds Unite!

[thesurfnerds]

beach break bonanza

Whew-ee, it’s been a long time since our last post. 

Firstly, please excuse the terrible pun/ alliteration that is the title of this post (it’s SurfNerds for a reason). 

On the other hand, it’s true that this month has been very busy, from baking lots of holiday goodies to surfing a series of bowly beach breaks, which is what this post is about (not the goodies, the waves). 

Anyway, this December I somehow ended up surfing almost all beach breaks, with the exception of a rocky reef point break towards the end of the month. This December was all sand, jetties, and sea shells.

In case you didn’t know, a beach break is a sandy spot where the waves are generally fast, hollow, and in a worst case scenario, walled

This is a beach break (keepin’ the names confidential— it’s part of the unwritten surfer code). And yes, there is a couple random beach goers in my “trying to be indie” pic.

I started off the month at a little-known local beach break with a bunch of other surfers for a dawnie, and— eek!— it was cold. I actually could run over all the pebbles on the beach without feeling a thing, my feet were so numb. That’s not good. Luckily, I had a steaming vat of hot cocoa waiting for me when I got out. The tricky part was getting my wetsuit off with no feeling in my hands or feet. 

This break can be a little nerve-wracking to surf. When the waves are any more than about four feet, they close out hard over shallow water and over the falls you go. I’ve seen many a boogie boarder slammed over. Luckily, the conditions were tiny, which actually makes fun waves at this spot. I don’t think there are many breaks you can have fun in 0-1 ft conditions out there. 

I winded up catching a lot of good lefts, which is surprising since it’s my weak side. Towards the end however, my fingers wouldn’t stay together to paddle, and that’s how I knew to get out. 

Next beach break was a renowned, I might say, beach break that I will not disclose the name of. Hint: teen boogie boarders and middle aged short boarders say yeeeeew (feel free to add as many e’s as necessary) when they talk about it. Or maybe that’s everywhere. 

It turned out to be a big swell day, so fortunately, I had my short board. Paddling out through the walled, shallow-breaking waves was a bit hectic, but I made it outside with mostly dry hair. Emphasis on mostly. Being out there was, I’ll admit, intimidating. There was some pretty hefty sets rolling through as the sun went down, but I managed to get through without taking much of a beating. And I had stories to tell after, so it was actually a more positive experience than negative. Besides, I had a gorgeous sunset pic for Instagram.

This isn’t it. :(

Last notable beach break adventure took place at a brand new break that I was, in fact, expecting to be, er, not good. To my surprise, it was really good. So good I spent more than two hours in the very cold, crowded, water. There was also a lot of sand dollars on shore. 

We got there early enough so the water was glassy and clear, with little bowly waves rolling through that were fun and easy to catch. We surfed until our arms were noodly, so that was a fun sesh. 

You might be wondering what the point of this article was, and it was this: go out into the ocean and new experiences with open arms and excitement. Who knows, the break, the day, the people, could all surprise you. 

[thesurfnerds]

a surfer’s dialect

Just for fun.

{a} aerial- not the princess— the awesome in-the-air maneuver skilled short boarders can pull off  

{b} backhand- surfing with one’s back to the wave

{c} carve- to really work the waves, to turn on the wave’s surface

{d} ding- a dent or crack in a board, usually from hitting another board or the rocks

{e} epic- just because we couldn’t think of anything else

{f} flat- when there’s no waves, as in “flat as a pond”

{g} glassy- perfectly smooth water, like glass; no wind disturbance or chop, in other words, ideal conditions

{h} hollow- a tube; when the wave breaks creating an empty space where a surfer can ride and often pictured on the front cover of surf magazines

{i} inside- the area where the waves are breaking, usually closer to shore; you don’t want to be here when the waves are big

{j} jetty- to surfers, this structure jutting out to sea means more than just an eyesore: they can create epic waves

{k} kook- two types: the beginning surfer with limited skill who pretends to know everything; or the good surfer who thinks every wave is theirs; spread the good vibes, please!

{l} lineup- the area out the back where the surfers wait for waves

{m} man in the gray suit- you will want to paddle in if you see this guy’s fin out in the lineup—need I say more?

{n} neoprene- the spongy material wetsuits are made of

{o} overhead- a wave that is over the surfer’s head; six foot is considered overhead, usually (also, double overhead, triple overhead)

{p} party wave- also, partay waaave! Describes a fun wave ridden with a few other surfers, often friends 

{q} quiver- a surfer’s collection of boards; the bigger, the better 

{r} rip- when the surfer just tears up the waves by doing sharp turns, similar to carve

{s} shaka- hang loose, brah!

{t} trim- on longboard; to keep one’s board in the best possible spot on the waves, usually accomplished by cross-stepping up and down the board

{u} underwater- hopefully not for long

{v} vertical- did ya go to school? Describes when your board’s way up in the air after a wipe out

{w} wipeout- when one falls off their board; sometimes fun, sometimes not

{x} surfers x-ing- *cough cough couldn’t think of anything cough cough*

{y} yeeeewww- the noise of excitement made when one catches or witnesses a really good wave

{z} Zogs- as in, Mr. Zog’s, the popular and good smelling wax brand

Whew, that was tough. I think I need to go for a good session to relax. Anyway, not all surfer’s use these words, but if you’re in need of a laugh... 

Comment any other surfer slang you want featured next time.

[thesurfnerds]

tail guide

Here it is—the sequel to our Nose Guide. 

Your board’s tail is just as important as the nose when it comes to the way your board rides, your paddle, and the maneuvers you can perform. When picking out a new stick, it’s important to choose the board with the tail that’s right for your surf style and local breaks. Want to cruise down the line with your toes on the nose? A square-tailed log might be the best for you. Prefer to execute quick, snappy cutbacks on the short, fast waves? You may want to invest in a pin-tailed short board. before you spend an arm and a leg on your next board, check out this tail guide we’ve put together. 

Square Tail       Pin Tail          Round Tail       Swallow Tail       Squash Tail

Square Tail: The square tail is one of the original tail designs. You’ll often see huge single-fin long boards end with a square tail. They provide a stable, balanced ride, but also allow pivotal turns. 

Pin Tail: Pin tails can be seen on both tiny, thin short boards, and long boards—not to mention the gun, the gigantic board used to charge the waves at Waimea Bay. The rails finish at almost a point, hence pin tail. This also gives the rails more of a curve. Pin tails lock the board into the wave, which makes the style more useful for riding big, hollow, waves, like the one’s on Hawai’i’s fabled north shore. 

Round Tail: Round tails are similar to the pin tail, but more versatile as there is more tail area. Again, they are better for locking into fast, big waves and are often seen on short boards. 

Swallow Tail: Swallow tails are almost exclusively seen on fish (not the living kind—the wide short board that can easily catch small, mushy, waves, yet still has the versatility of short boards). The tail is split in two, sort of like the tail of a swallow. Usually, the wide board combined with the tail lead to easily caught waves, but you can still perform short board tricks to some extent on a fish. Note From SurfNerd Experience: The wide swallow tail is pointy! Don’t let it impale you. 

Squash tail: Squash tails are commonly seen on short boards, but more maneuverable long boards sometimes also have the feature. The squash tail is very similar to the square tail, but is a  smaller, edgier model that allows for much sharper turns. 

And Then... there’s always that surf hobo with the asymmetrical crazy tail. Who knows what that tail does? 

[thesurfnerds]

knowing your nose

When you’re first looking around at boards in a surf shop, your favorite one might be the 5′1″ wafer thin short-board with pink and purple Hawaiian flower decals. Okay, that’s cool, but it’s important to take a look at your personal skill, style, and local surf scene. If all the breaks around are, on average, small point-break rollers, then maybe the Hawaiian flower short-board isn’t the one for you. It’s important to understand your board beyond its color and pattern, so us SurfNerds have put together a nose guide for the surfboard customer’s benefit. 

Round//point Nose              Pointed Nose                             Rounded Nose

The nose of your surfboard plays a big part in the way you ride your wave. Everything from drop in to glide can be affected by the shape of your board’s nose. 

Round//point Nose: the hybrid between the classic round nose and more modern pointed nose combines to create a smooth, easy ride buoyed by the higher volume. It’s more stable than a pointed nose and therefore slightly harder to maneuver, but versatile all the same. 

Pointed Nose: a pointed nose is the most maneuverable style of all, generally found on shorter boards. Pointed noses have less volume, so are less stable as well. 

Rounded Nose: a rounded nose has the most volume of all and is therefore most stable. They are usually found on longer boards and are much better for nose-riding. They might be harder to maneuver, but they are perfect for classic long boarding style. 

Tail Guide coming soon!

[thesurfnerds]

surfing is fun

[thesurfnerds]

surfing myths and legends: busted

 There are so many stereotypes and urban legends surrounding surfing these days that it’s sometimes hard to tell what’s true—and what’s completely made up. Some of these myths are amusing...some are, well—never mind. Us SurfNerds have done some research and field work and are ready to give you the lowdown. 

1. All surfers super relaxed, brah.

Unfortunately, this one’s not true. Anyone who is a regular at their local beach knows the sad truth about this. There’s always that angry guy that looks like he wants to hit you over the head with his board, goes for every wave, and has a permanent scowl on his face. However, be the one to spread the good vibes, and that’s what you’ll get in return. 

2. All surfers use words like gnarly, and radical. 

Nope. In fact, according to our calculations, the word radical relates to the root of a number or quantity, and can be described as √. Nerd is the word. 

3.  Girls can’t surf. 

Uh, did anyone watch the Roxy Pro France recently? Girls can definitely rip. Just look out at your local lineup and the gals are sliding down the line just as good as the guys. It may still be a minority, but not for long!

4. All surfers are, er, sunbaked. 

There is definitely the myth that there’s nothing but water in between your average surfers ears. However, look at what you’re reading: SurfNerds. Need we say more? 

Any surf myths you would like to share? Comment below for a spot in Surf Myths 2. ☺

picture creds to SurfNerds