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@theworldjuliakorniak
REFLECTION The World looks...
The world needs a lot of reformation but progress doesn’t always come in a straight line and realising that is very important. In order to change the world we need to go with our hearts and live by our values and sometimes that means dedicating our lives to something we believe in. That’s very inspiring to me because me and my team agreed
My statement
‘’I want people to understand how clothes are produced in order to end mass production’’
or
‘’I want to change how people look at fashion in order to end/lower mass production’’
WORKSHOP 2B
The World needs to be aware
JJAM
We think we’ll dive into the education of people but not in a boring way. I would want to revolutionise the way people look and treat clothing and through that change of mindset, make masses more critical of the system we live in.
THE WORLD NEEDS...
concerns:
fatphobia, not looking at fat people as people who can feel attractive, not matching the designs of their products to different body shapes
pushing the european beauty standard rooted in racism and transphobia
not paying the workers livable wages
focusing on production and making money instead of making high quality product
stealing from smaller brands tdesigns and mass producting without including the artist
QUESTIONS to investigate false advertising + THOUGHTS
What’s the most practical way to inspect the manufacturing process of brands?
In what way do we want to communicate this? (APP/LAW/CERTIFICATES)?
Is this idea realistic? What capacity would we need to check every garment process from particular brands? (GOVERMENT BASED>FRANCE ALREADY DOES THIS)
Are there any alternatives? Is there a better way to check the process of manufacturing?
The government could tax companies that don’t comply with regulations, then use these taxes to fund the creation of apparel and footwear recycling. And with these systems in place, governments could force companies to create products that are recyclable
My journey with NFTs
After the symposium panel talk about digital fashion, I became interested in what the NFT’s, which the speakers kept mentioning.
It seemed to me like a concept out of my mental capacity because it’s very theoretical and closely connected to the world of crypto banking and digital investments.
After doing research (https://www.glossy.co/fashion/how-fashion-brands-are-navigating-nfts-and-whats-next-for-the-metaverse/ and https://www.theverge.com/22310188/nft-explainer-what-is-blockchain-crypto-art-faq) I realised how cool the idea of trading intellectual property could be. I immediately thought about my photography being existing in someone’s gallery in the meta verse and how sustainable it would be for other kinds of art such as fashion to exist and be valued without the need to produce physical materials.
That made me think ‘’what if all the different aspects of the value chain came to live in the digital space?’’But that would require a way to design the clothing, prototype it, visualise it to align with the creator’s vision, and market it. Turns out, that is all possible.
I came across an 3D editing programme ‘’Blender’’ and got really into the mechanics of it. After watching countless tutorials I was stunned to discover that it was possible to use one app to create ANY realistic looking thing, landscape (and animate it) my heart desired.
I called my friend, who’s also in fashion and said ‘’Remember the photoshoot we wanted to do in the country site last year? I’m going to learn how to make the scene from my computer. I just need a photo to base the image on’’
That made me so excited to learn a new skill and I’m truly intrigued by the way technology might allow us to collaborate on things and show them to the masses without physically being present and doing any of the work such as hiring models, getting a set, hiring hair and makeup in person. All the interactions could be communicated and executed digitally.
THE STINKY FISH
- No social justice in the value chain
The sad truth is that geography matters most in the way workers are treated and receive just treatment. Brands care (and act) when the exploitation is on their doorstep, but not when it is further afield in Asia. The proximity of the factory to Boohoo operations in Manchester and U.K. retailers was too close for comfort. Despite both news stories being shared in the U.K. media, the lack of action in the case of the Bangladeshi workers suggests a lack of empathy and interest in their plight.
Producers perceive developing countries primarily as a place for mass production, low-value products that must be as cheap as possible, despite brands like Lidia May and London-based emerging design talent Rahemur Rahman producing their luxury leather goods and high-end fashion collections in Dhaka with respect to the craftmentship and workers.
‘’In the year ahead, the longer-term trend of citizen activism will continue, boosted by social media and a widening gap between the rich and poor exacerbated by the pandemic. Gen-Z, which will account for more than 40 percent of global consumers in 2020, will lead the charge as the most politically active age group on social platforms.’’
That’s what McKinsey states in their ‘’State of fashion 2021′’ report. It’s a hopeful vision that motivates me to work towards change and see the good shift that’s already happening in the fashion chains.
THE STINKY FISH
- Big brands steal designs from small creators. People don’t realise how much of a value intellectual property has
It’s extremely popular for big labels with a lot of recognition to steal ideas from small creators and make collections based off of the art someone else produced. In Poland there’s a worldwide known brand-MISBHV (recognised by Kylie Jenner and Olly Alexander). Lately they have stolen artwork from photographer-Hqeivy and puts it on merchandise and sold it. In response to the backlash they offered the creator a ‘’bon’’ to shop their clothes, which is....tragic.
The brand had used several of his photos without permission and Hqeivy expressed a desire to hold a conversation about compensation for copyright infringement. MISBHV did not send back any reply, but removed all posts with a stolen photo from its account - however, the clothes were still sold on the website and in brick-and-mortar stores.
THE STINKY FISH
- Certain sizes are the standard-normal, and anything outside of it is not included, viewed as a flaw.
The sizing in the industry is based in misogyny (which has its bias in paedophilic gaze), is fat-phobic, racist. The reality is that you can be healthy at almost any size. The diversity of the human race and looks is worth exploring, capturing and appreciating.
Workshop 2a
From the viewpoint of a brand, a designer does…
A designer is the person that comes up with the initial ideas, thinks of materials and construction of the garment.
From the viewpoint of a brand, product development is…
It is the process of delivering a product, from the idea/concept to actualising it. Then bringing it to the market to be sold.
From the viewpoint of a factory, production is…
The process of making the idea that was sent to them into a finalized product. The process of construction of the designer's idea.
From the viewpoint of a brand, branding and communication do what in the value chain & where in the value chain (end, beginning, throughout)...
They promote the product to gain consumers attention and create awareness of the brand’s existence. Where? After the production.
From the viewpoint of the consumer, at the end of the garments life they…
Throw it away, sell it, give it away, repair it, repurpose, use it as a cleaning cloth.
Symposium
Challenges:
a lot of people don’t realise the industry needs to change, but you need to believe in your vision because one person can bring change
it’s an old industry and many people who have been in it might be hard it takes a lot of conversation and patience
realising that the things we create don’t need to be uniform, there is a beauty in imperfection and we should spread this message to others
Symposium
‘’Two steps forward, one step back’’
Progress doesn’t go in a straight line, it’s about ups and downs and we can’t give up even when it takes a lot of time and energy to reach a goal. We shouldn’t treat inclusion and diversity as a trend. To make a change we need to live by our values and apply them in everyday life, unionise and collaborate with people who bring out the best in us, inspire others to participate in this culture.
The World looks...
What is a value chain?
It’s a full range of activities that make the product more valuable. For companies that produce goods, a value chain comprises the steps that involve bringing a product from conception to distribution, and everything in between—such as procuring raw materials, manufacturing functions, and marketing activities
What is a business model?
It’s an outline of how a company plans to make money with its product and customer base in a specific market
Value chain represents the qualities that make products and companies successful from the customers' point of view, while the business model describes the systems that make a company viable for its owners and investors
Making the value chain
Making it circular
It was basically impossible to put it in order, there is so much that we don’t even consider when we think about crating a piece of clothing. I don’t think designers, and many other people who take part in product development, look at what they’re doing from a perspective of how that product is going to effect people in further production stages/how to make their product easier to handle for people. I think they focus more on the end costumer and how they’re going to react to the product but not the people who participate in creating it, making their vision come to life.
Conclusion from Nathan Wiles’ expert talk
consumption and the appeal of getting rich is what stands in the way of making products sustainable, because brands are focused on mass production to sell as many as possible. quantity makes it possible to sell for cheaper
technology and science in the production chain also have to improve in order to match our ideas of creating sustainably, we need to e realistic
as soon as fashion became industrialised we got issues with consumption but also creation and production of products that showcase people’s creativity and identity
Making the best use of the products is great for the wallet and the planet
Full Circle experts
Business strategy that reduces waste and takes the guilt off of costumer:
long term customer relation with keeping values and quality of products consistent
great price for value
engage customer in the sustainability of the brand
shares supply chain with different brands to help the industry move in a better direction
using 50 recycled and 50%organic cotton, not a 100%recycled ensures that the quality of the fibre that’s spun is consistent
The World looks...
Questions about the industry that came to mind:
How does racism affect the beauty standard?
Why do brands choose to not pay workers liable wages when they can afford to do that?
What has to change in the production chain in order to reduce environmental pollution?
As a team we discussed our most bugging questions and came to a conclusion that the most important one to look into would be ‘’Why is it legal to falsely label the origin of a garment?’’. The point of the class wasn’t necessarily to create that research question but we were immediately set on the idea of looking into false advertising (green washing, disclosing ratios of materials when it comes to labelling, false country of origin). We also came up with a solution to this problem: to create a law or a certificate that would make it impossible for brands to launch their products without passing the ‘’ethical check’’.