day five hundred and forty-three - stop doing bad things
Itâs become increasingly easy to forget to write on this blog, just like itâs become increasingly easy to forget about the pandemic the world is still in. Over 603,000 Americans have died to date, with 312 dying just yesterday. Yet this âendâ of the pandemic looks a lot like the beginning of what would become a pandemic, with daily case counts at mid-March 2020 levels, which is to say, certainly not zero. Iâm trying to avoid a similar habituation and amnesia with shopping.
If youâve read the blog you know I went a whole year without buying clothes except for that one magical New Mexico coat. And that I said I had Learned My Lesson and would shop differently when I decided to officially shop again. And that I confessed to buying a blazer on eBay in February and a pair of shearling sandals in March and ordering coats to try on in my last post. And now Iâm trying to stop that drip from becoming a flood.
First, I will say I did return one of the two pre-owned coats, but second I will say that with one of them I also ordered two pre-owned sweaters that I did not return. And that I spent a ton of time browsing The RealReal for even more sweaters after that. And that I spent even more time looking for a new ethical/sustainable/unproblematic bralette and then had not one but two shipped from Net-A-Porter in London because they were sold out here. And that I then ordered the same Freda Salvador sandal in two different colors during a flash Bloomingdales sale. This, my friends, is not not shopping.
I am trying very hard to not slip back into the all-or-nothing thinking that has served me so poorly throughout life, either to swear off buying clothes forever or to give up and wild out - one is not realistic, and the other isnât affordable. Iâm writing this post not because I have some great wisdom about how to resist the temptation of new shit, but to acknowledge that itâs real, and cop to succumbing to it. There is a very not quiet part of my brain that says if one is good, two is better, and it turns out I have to learn to live with that part of me instead of denying it exists.
So, how to make this post actionable? By sharing my new shopping process, or the best possible version of it.Â
1. Confirm youâre filling a need
Ask yourself why youâre trying to buy the thing youâre trying to buy. Did you identify an actual gap in your wardrobe, or are you just browsing? Do you know how many of that thing you already have? Do you have plans to wear that thing within 30 days?
2. Sleep on that need
This is an important step! Put some distance between deciding you need something and acting on that decision. If youâre reading a blog about trying not to buy clothes for a year, you probably donât âneedâ any new article of clothing, so give yourself at least a day but preferably more to see what happens when you continue not having that thing. Could you find something else in your closet to fill the gap? Could you borrow something from a friend? Could you discover that youâve gone this long without it and been totally fine?
3. Shop pre-owned first
If you gave yourself satisfactory answers to the need questions and are determined and ready to go find the thing, see if you can find it at a vintage/resale/consignment shop, either in-person or online. You already know how environmentally damaging it is to produce clothes, so by buying pre-owned youâre not creating net-new waste and youâre also extending the life of something that could otherwise become waste. You can also play up the one-of-a-kind aspect to yourself if you donât like associating this shiny new-to-you thing with waste.
4. Shop Good On You second
If youâre convinced your thing has to be new production, itâs pretty hard to know what brands are actually doing things the ârightâ way. Good On You is the best shortcut Iâve found, as it rates brands on a host of sustainability metrics. Itâs certainly not perfect (there being no real regulation in what brands have to report), but itâs a good jumping off point, and can satisfy that itch to browse.
5. Shop small always
No matter what youâre buying, it is always always better to purchase from a small business or designer than a major retailer (she says, after admitting to buying from Bloomingdales). We do weird shit in America, like expect the things we financially support the least (teachers, mom and pop restaurants, the cute corner shop) to always be there for us. If you buy everything on Amazon, all that will be left is Amazon, so maybe divert some of your spending to, say, Garmentory instead, to get that Amazon feel with the boutique support. They have many of the brands that Good On You gives high marks to :)
5. Make sure you can afford it
So youâve found the thing and know where you want to buy it from, awesome! Could you pay for it in cash? Before you huff about your salary being sufficient, this step is not meant to shame anyone but to break a cycle that credit cards, those harbingers of American prosperity, started. We are very used to putting something on our cards and paying for it later, which means we separate the act of buying from the consequence of bearing the cost. Asking yourself if your checking account could handle the purchase should also encourage you to consider the consequences on your overall budget - did you plan for this purchase, and, if not, are you prepared to give something else up for it? (Note: This section is not intended to question how much things cost. Well made, sustainably made, ethically made items cost more than fast fashion, but that does not make them a luxury. Remember who subsidizes cheaply made products - those being cheaply paid to make them.)
6. Make sure you can return it
This step is maybe the hardest for me, and the one that requires the most between the lines reading. I firmly believe you should never buy anything final sale that you havenât tried on. I also firmly believe that you should buy pre-owned, where trying on isnât always possible. The absolute best case scenario is going to a physical store to try something on before purchasing it (from that store or elsewhere), but if thatâs not possible then getting the measurements of the item is key. Itâs much easier to measure something you already have to compare to what youâre trying to buy than to look at how something has been styled in a photograph and guess how it will fit. This step is designed both to save you money and to prevent unloved and unworn stuff from collecting in your closet - letâs not let the sunk cost fallacy sink your wardrobe spirits.
7. Make sure you *wonât* return it
This step goes back to the first step but could also have been written as âWear it!â If youâve done the research, paid the cost and brought that new thing home, take it out for multiple spins! Donât find yourself reaching for it? Return it! Despite what consumerism says, buying clothes to have and not hold does not make us happier. If youâre not excited to wear the thing you just bought, you didnât actually need it, and now you know for the next time you have a jonesing to start the shopping process all over again.
So yeah, this is an incredibly long, thoughtful, and arduous way to go about shopping, but the entire point is to interrupt the habits that lead us to browse, buy, repeat. I spent forever looking for a coat to fill a need, but then was like âwell what else should I buy to justify the shipping costâ and wound up with two sweaters - this is a bad habit!! But this is a loving blog, so instead of passing judgment on your (or my) shopping lapses, embrace the mindful shopping method above and prepare for self-actualized consumerist bliss. Thank you for coming to my Ted Talk. Namaste.










