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@tigermonkeymel-blog
Ten months on T and proud to finally be me. 🏳️🌈 #transman #monthonetomonthten #tenmonths #transitionupdate #betruetoyourself #walkconfidently #followyourheart #dontgiveuponyourdreams #sometimesitshard #sometimesithurts #sometimesitsucks #butitsworthit
Five years ago I had my first flare up of Rheumatoid Arthritis. It affects the joints I use most aggressively, which as a climber is mainly my fingers. Not knowing what exactly was going on, my RA went untreated for a year and a half. During that time I couldn't climb at all. In fact it was so debilitating that I had trouble opening jars/doors/pill bottles. I would lose my grip on things I was holding in one hand, even if they were light. I thought I would never be able to climb again. Five years later, after a huge lifestyle change utilizing Ayurvedic medicine, here I am, healthier and happier than I have ever been. I am Malcom Mel, a Transman, full-time routesetter and coach. Not only can I climb, but have pushed through all of my old plateaus; currently climbing V10 and 5.13. Doing one arms and front levers. Weightlifting like a beast. Life is an amazing journey. It is not always easy, but it is always full of surprises. What I have learned through this experience is that nothing is impossible. You can do anything you set your mind to, if you're willing to put in the work. Here is my send of the V10 in the expansion! Psyched to take my new strength outdoors! #staypositive #motivation #routesettinglife #transman #tenmonths #climbing #gymrat #anythingispossible #nevergivingup #trusttheprocess @fiveten_official @prana @adidasoutdoor @crgworcester (at Central Rock Worcester)
Coffee with a side of Angst. #selfcare #fallfeels #porchlife #transman #ninemonths #weekendsareforenlightenment #breathe #cheers #angst
Fall Catalogue: Halloween 2016 Clothing Line: American Holidays Starring: Krista and Mel Page 1: Stare at invisible object on the ground with intent and wonder Page 2: Justin Bieber Page 3: Freeze walk Page 4: Look for life's answers among the sky @k_bake_bake #fallcatalogue #pretentious #hotstuff #halloween #americanholidays #woolife #transman #ninemonths
🍂🍁❤️ #newengland #fall #transman #eightmonths #newenglandviews #beautifuldeath (at Central Rock Glastonbury)
My social media posts have been scarce lately because I have been too busy leveling up!! The past three months I have been focusing on static strength, one of my biggest weaknesses as both a climber and an athlete. One of my weekly drills is sloth climbing! Sloth climbing is just a fancy way of saying "climb as slow as you can without pausing". I try and sloth climb movements that I would normally do dynamically, or something that really gives my core a challenge. Three months ago I had begun sloth climbing on V2s and V3s. Now I am sloth climbing V5s-V7s. This stuff really works- I have some solid one arm pull-ups and can climb 1-2 grades harder on both boulders and ropes. Here I'm sloth climbing this rad V5 @itsjamiere set @crgworcester 💪🏾 @k_bake_bake makes a nice appearance to help show that this is, in fact, real time 😉 #sloth #slothclimbing #slothlife #transman #eightmonths #trainingforclimbing #climbing #gymrat #lockoffsfordays (at Central Rock Worcester)
Finally back to some heavy deadlifts! I took a short hiatus from heavy lifting this summer to work on my flexibility and static body weight movements. My training has given me tremendous breakthroughs in climbing, however with the combination of increased laxity and my recent body composition changes from testosterone, I have had to re-learn how to position my body and completely change my deadlift setup. Here is 295x3 and 300x4. Left glute wasn't firing well on the 295, then suddenly engaged on the 300 set, leaving my pull lopsided for a couple of reps until I realized what was happening. Slight hip adjustment and right shoulder re-engagement mid-set, then managed to squeeze out 2 solid looking reps at 300! #deadliftsfordays #deads #deadlift #transman #eightmonths #300club #gluteengagement #strengthinnumbers #getyoked #happyplace (at Central Rock Worcester)
7.5 months on Testosterone. Couldn't be more proud of myself for having the courage to transition publicly. To face my fears of rejection; expressing my true self for all to bear witness to. Fully embracing my individuality and all of my quirks. Being happy about just being me. #bendingalltheroles #transman #ftm #sevenmonths #liveyourpassion #pride #queerstyle #yearofthebeast @partar400
Sunset in September #porchlife #transman #sevenmonths #saturdaynightin (at Worcester, Massachusetts)
When the pump gets real! Labor Day weekend climbing- Day 3 on up in Rumney. Hopped on a 5.10c at 5.8 crag and got soooo flash pumped! Managed to still onsight, then spent the rest of the day shaking off the pump on some funky 5.5-5.8's enjoying my time on the rocks with some good friends! #thepumpisreal #climbing #rumney #sevenmonths #transman #sirachalove #dailydoseofmeditation #rocksonrocksonrocks (at Rumney, New Hampshire)
Had an awesome time attending the @usaclimbing Level 1 Setting Certification Course! I met some really cool people and learned some super helpful tips! I have never felt more in my element. Definitely chose the right profession. Looking forward to setting for some competitions in the near future! Here is one of the problems I set at the clinic- Youth C specific. #routesettinglife #toehooksfordays #dropkneesforever #scrunchlife #transman #sevenmonths #competitionclimbing #lookitsaboulder (at Rock Climb Fairfield)
Calorie loading for the Level 1 Routesetting Clinic. Tons of setting robe had today and tomorrow with @orbitalbitmap #savage #buffalowildwings #wingsonwingsonwings #transman #sevenmonths (at Rock Climb Fairfield)
Got to set with the WPI Climbing team yesterday! Was super fun. I set this cool V4/V5 rig! #swoleandflexy #heelhooksfordays #routesettinglife #climbinggymrat #transman #sixmonths #livinlarge (at Worcester Polytechnic Institute (WPI))
Circuits are one of my favorite endurance training tools! Having the ability to grab a variety of difficult holds on a set hand sequence with open feet leads to the ultimate technical test. Can you maneuver your weight around enough to keep the pump away? Here is me at 1.8x speed on our 5.13a/b circuit. I almost sent!! Got to hold 39/41! Having trouble getting my feet out right with my right hand on a teeeeeny crimp! CRG Worcester folks! Come hangout in the Training Room and try some circuits with me on Wednesday nights from 7-8:30pm! #circuits #climbing #swoleandflexy #woolife #worcesterma #transman #sixmonths #almostthere #fightingthepump #backstepsfordays #justkeepbreathing #sendalltheprojects (at Central Rock Worcester)
And one of the cousins got it! #familystrong @superpalma10 #justlikethat #climbingsintheblood #naturaltalent #chairbouldering #chairclimbing #prochairclimberrighthere #swoleandflexy
Teaching the fam how to chair boulder! Goal is to start sitting/go under the chair/back up to sitting without touching the ground. 🤗 #chairbouldering #chairclimbing #chairproblems #dabdabdab #justlikethat #transman #sixmonths #familystrong
One week later and I still got 'Em! Super psyched to be able to do one arm pullups, on command, on both arms. 🤗🤗 One arms have been a goal of mine since I began climbing in 2005. The road to these has been difficult, due to the fact that I have pretty insane double jointed elbows. Since I have a good amount of laxity in my elbows, getting enough single arm pulling power has always been a weakness of mine. I'm glad to say that this particular glass ceiling has finally been busted!💥💪🏾 (at Central Rock Worcester)