May 17 (5), 2026 — Teruya, Okinawa City
It’s already well known, but during the Vietnam War, Gate 2 Street was where white servicemen gathered, while Teruya was known as a district frequented by Black servicemen.
Still, walking through today, there was little that visibly remained of that past. I wandered on, half expecting not to find anything—a faded mural of a black panther, perhaps, or some other trace.
Along the way, a 95-year-old man struck up a conversation.
He told me that I walked well for someone out in this heat. He said he’d made a bit of money in his life, but his legs hurt now and he could no longer walk much. A pair of legs that can still carry you through the sun on a day like this is worth more than anything, he said, and told me to keep at it.
We spoke for a while about the difference between the town then and now, and about his own life. There were parts I couldn’t quite catch, but the conversation was fascinating.
Around 14:00 — Along Route 329, Ozato, Okinawa City
A male Monticola solitarius (Blue Rock Thrush).
They were everywhere. It was breeding season, and most appeared to be paired. None seemed particularly wary of people; if anything, they were curious. Even when I approached within a couple of meters, they simply stared back with interest.
The bird in the video gave a frog-like warning call—gekokoko... gekokoko...—perhaps because it was nesting nearby.
Distracted by small things along the roadside, I continued downhill toward the sea.
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