Travel to Parts Unknown

An account of my various international adventures.

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Adventures Abroad with a Best Friend

Since meeting Freshman year of university, Caitlin and I have wanted to travel internationally together. And we have finally decided to make that happen. She's been in Senegal for the last year and a half with the Peace Corps so planning has been a bit challenging. When she originally brought up the possibility of a trip, us meeting somewhere, we'd talked Europe. But then, she suggested Morocco. And to be honest I've wanted to visit Morocco for longer than I wanted to visit Egypt. Which is saying something because I had wanted to visit Egypt since I was in second grade.

Well, we managed to get the planning done, the AirBnBs booked, and now all that awaits is our epic reunion on foreign soil. I can't wait.

Itinerary

Day 1-2 (4/9-4/10): Travel to Tangier, Morocco

Day 3 (4/11): Tangier

Day 4 (4/12): Travel to Chefchaouen

Day 5 (4/13): Chefchaouen

Day 6 (4/14): Travel to Fes

Day 7-9 (4/15-4/17): Fes

Day 10-11 (4/18-4/19): Merzouga

Day 12 (4/20): Travel to Ouarzazate

Day 13 (4/21): Ouarzazate

Day 14 (4/22): Travel to Marrakesh

Day 15-16 (4/23-4/24): Marrakesh

Day 17 (4/25): Travel to Lisbon

Day 18 (4/26): Travel to Boise, USA

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Day 1 & 2: 16 & 17/12/15 (Boise to Berlin/Brandenburg)

It seems that this year was one filled with travel.  I guess it is to be expected that not every trip will go smoothly.  This one started out by waking get up at 5:45 only to find out my plane had been delayed 4 hours.  This meant I would miss my connecting flights.  So I called and changed fights so I would go through Denver instead of Chicago.  However this flight left earlier than the other and we rushed to the airport.  Only to find this one was delayed as well but I would still make my connections.

After an hour or more of waiting we finally began boarding.  Even though I’d been rebooked that morning I still managed to have a good seat; not very far back and next to the window. We pushed back and proceeded to wait to de-ice, this was around a 30 minute wait and I started to worry that I would not make my connecting flight after all.  Instead of worrying about it I proceeded to nap, figuring I would really need the sleep later on.  We finally took off and I kept sleeping.  Near the end of the flight I checked my next flight to see what time it was supposed to leave and when I was arriving.  Lucky for me I was 3 gates away because I got off my flight and booked it to the other gate just in time for ‘final call for boarding.’

Once again the airplane gods smiled on me, I had an aisle seat and no one in the middle.  Almost immediately I passed out. Without the window to prop me up I got a bit of a crick in my neck but I still slept for a good portion of the flight. I also read some, starting Saving Francesca by Melina Marchetta.  When I arrived in Newark I headed straight to my next gate, thinking I would get food somewhere near by.  However it turned out we were already boarding, so there would be no time for eating.  

I looked at the movies I could watch and decided I would have to show restraint because there were so many that I wanted to watch. I settled on Ant-Man and Mad Max: Fury Road because I hadn’t seen it here of them yet.  Both were very enjoyable, though it should be noted some scenes in Ant-Man should not be watched while eating because I nearly spewed rice over the screen trying not to laugh.  Mad Max was just an enjoyable experience overall and fulfilled all of my dreams about how one would fight a war on cars. I know what my next short story project will involve. After that I slept and tried not to use the person sitting next to me as a pillow, because that would have just been weird.

When I arrived in Berlin it was chilly and damp and my hair, which had lost all of its body with all of the sleeping in planes, perked tight up and turned into the wild mane I remembered.  I checked my email and let everyone know I arrived safely (and my luggage as well, much to my surprise).  However my host mother, Anna, couldn't meet up with me in Berlin because she was sick.  So I would be on my own for finding a Christmas Market. Luckily I had done my research.  After exchanging some money I caught a bus to  Zoologischer Garten Station.  I put my luggage it a storage locker and caught the S-Bahn to Friedrichstraße Station.

I visited some of my favorite shops on the street, including a giant bookstore.  I also stopped in a cell phone store to ask how much a SIM-card would cost.  I mostly understood everything the woman helping me said (because of course less than 3 hours in and I was trying to be a functioning German speaker).  However, from what I gathered, it wouldn't make sense to buy one so I sauntered on, wondering how I would tell my host family I arrived in Brandenburg and could they please pick me up.  But that was a worry for a later time and finding the nearby Christmas Market was the next adventure.

Turns out I have a pretty spot on memory, both of Berlin and GoogleMaps. I turned one street early but didn't mind seeing the Französische Kirche from the back. As it turned out the Christmas Market didn't open until 11:00 so I had 20 minutes to do more wandering.  I stopped in H&M and reminded myself that I would have plenty of time to shop there later but I took my time since I had 20 minutes to burn. After that I returned to the Christmas Market and began wandering. It wasn't very large so I made several laps deciding want I would buy.  I got some candied nuts and a leather bracelet (because yes I'm obsessed) that says “I <3 Berlin.”  Then I began the journey to Brandenburg.

I headed to Zoologischer Garten Station from Fedrichstraße Station on the S-Bahn. And arrived in time to get my bags, buy a train ticket, and hear the train leave as I climbed the stairs. This precipitated a 30 minute wait. During which I tried desperately not to fall asleep. I also planned how I would get it touch with my host family.  Eventually, the 30 minutes passed and I boarded the train and then tried desperately not to fall asleep during the 40 minute ride.  I journaled and sketched to maintain consciousness.

Then, I arrived in Brandenburg an der Havel.  I looked around the train station for a pay phone but couldn't find one. So I asked a woman who worked there if there was in fact a pay phone, the answer was no.  So I headed out in search of a phone.  It is in moments like these that I am glad one develops a different personality for the different languages one speaks.  German Hanna is a fearless creature who will take her so-so German up to a stranger and ask for assistance.  This ended in success in a hair salon. I walked in and asked if they knew where a phone was that I could use to contact my host family. When they suggested the train station I explained that I had already tried there. Next they asked if my host family lived in Brandenburg. When I answered in the affirmative they let me use their phone, including dialing because I am useless with foreign numbers.

My host father, Andreas, picked me up from the station. We spoke on the ride home and my German improved rapidly the more I used it. When we arrived at home Anna came and gave me a hug and looked for some slippers for me. I ended up with an old pair of my host brother, Jakob’s.  Then we went to the kitchen and I got to have some real German bread, with honey and jam. There are few things that I missed more than the bread (excluding my host family).  As we were sitting around the table Jakob arrived. I will admit I was a bit surprised when he went for a hug, but that was because he wasn't much of a hugger at 14.  He's also grown a lot, he's almost my height now and I wouldn't be too surprised if he eventually passes me. Also, man-bun. It's great.

The rest of the day involved a 2 hour nap and a delicious meal. Also some quality tea drinking conversation.  I was reminded just how much German I'd forgotten but my host parents seemed pretty impressed that I was doing so good. Then I went to bed and slept for around 10 hours.

It should be noted that the whole time I was writing this I was thinking about what I would write in German. Really it’s a miracle that any of it is understandable English. It should also be noted that I only have a tablet with me and if there are any spelling get errors that's why.

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Hanna’s Epic European Adventure

As finals draw to a close my anticipation for my winter break grows.  I will be spending 6 weeks in Europe.  For a little over two weeks my family and I will be traveling together, for Christmas we will be visiting an exchange student we hosted.  After the beginning of the new year I will continue my adventures alone, meeting up with a friend from my exchange year, taking part in a professor led study of Venice for a week, and then returning to my host family.

I will try to post daily and, failing that, weekly.

My Itinerary:

Dec. 16-19: Berlin/Brandenburg, Germany Dec. 19-23: Prague, Czech Republic Dec. 24-28: Vienna, Austria Dec. 28-Jan. 1: Budapest, Hungary Jan. 1-5: Copenhagen, Denmark Jan. 5-11: Stockholm, Sweden Jan. 11-18: Venice, Italy Jan. 18-28: Brandenburg, Germany

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I would have been lost without this!  Thanks Caitlin for creating the perfect travel journal!

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Day 12: 14/8/15 (Quito to Boise)

Travel days really are the bane of my existence.  I woke up at 5:00 am, ate a quick breakfast, and departed for the airport with Father and Marcelo.  After a 30 minute drive I was deposited with a hug and the offer of an open home in Ecuador should I ever return.  Then I was met with a long line to check-in and drop my bag.  The flight to Mexico City was a pleasant 4 hours.  Enough time to watch Sherlock Holmes and most of Kingdom of Heaven.

Once the plane was parked at the gate in Mexico City I deployed my elbows and super speed walk.  I would not be waiting in a 2 hour line for immigration this time.  Indeed I made it through in under 20 minutes.  And then I waited for my bag.  Because apparently if you’re flying in from South America your bags have to be searched by drug dogs, approximately seven times before they are placed on the baggage carousel.  Once through customs, I continued my speed walk to the gate and waited a little less than an hour before boarding.  Overall a more positive experience than flying to Peru, but still not enough to make me ever want to set foot in the Mexico City Airport again.

While I was waiting to board my next flight I picked up a “friend,“ she had been visiting family in Argentina and tried to engage me in small talk.  Unfortunately for her, my eyes had started to droop and I wasn’t much of a conversation buddy.  On the flight to LA I finished Kingdom of Heaven and watched The Longest Ride, because I needed some romantic fluff in my life (the shower scene was very steamy and a bit awkward to watch with a Mexican youth soccer coach sitting next to me).

Upon arrival in LAX I scurried to deplane, I’m really not fond of lines and was determined to avoid the immigration one at all costs.  Turns out, there was no need to worry, our flight was the only one arriving at the time.  I requested my passport be stamped and the immigration control fellow chuckled before complying.  While going through customs I was subjected to an agricultural survey and was asked if I’d traveled anywhere else in the last 12 months.  I think they were surprised when I replied with Southeast Asia.  After I’d dropped by checked bag, I had to hike from Terminal 2 to Terminal 5.  It was good to stretch my legs after at least 5 hours spent on planes.

While I waited for my flight to Boise I read more of Jellicoe Road (for the second time) and decided that it was the best book I’ve read all summer.  After grabbing a quick bite to eat the plane boarded and we were underway.  I slept most of the way back to Boise.  Unfortunately I was in the row right before the emergency exit and therefore could not recline.  I employed the ball method and curled up in the seat, I think my seatmate was duly impressed.  Kelly was my rescuer, retrieving me from the airport past midnight (local time, 1:00 am Ecuador time).

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Day 11: 13/8/15 (Quito)

Due to our plans of hiking to a lake in a volcano crater we rose early.  However during breakfast we heard on the radio that the road we would be using would be closed due to the protests.  So, we went to Plan B.  Hike to a waterfall.  This gave a us more time to eat/get ready.  After driving on one of the bumpiest roads of my life we arrived at the trail head.

We then proceeded to take the wrong trail at least three times before finally managing to find our way.  This was not altogether a bad thing as it was beautiful by the river and the smaller rapids were beautiful.  At one point we were hiking along what was once a trail but hadn’t been used in awhile, some creative scrambling was necessary at times.  Once we found the right path we hiked for twenty or thirty minutes before arriving at the waterfall.  Along the way both Marcelo and Valeria slipped in the same spot, it was video worthy (but alas no one was prepared on that front).  We sat by the waterfall for a couple of minutes, enjoying the beauty, some fruit, and a handful of cookies.

On the drive home, we went over a bump so fast that the three of us in the backseat (Mother, Valeria, and I), who were unequipped with seat-belts, caught some serious air.  Both mother and I hit our heads on the ceiling of the car, but they were both grazing smacks and didn’t hurt that much.  We devoured a tasty lunch of hornado de chancho (roasted pig) before resting for a while.

Later in the day we headed out to go watch a traditional dance involving devils and angels.  When we arrived in the town where it was being held there was some confusion.  None of the locals seemed to know where it was located.  So we finally asked some policemen.  Turns out, the show had been canceled due to the protests but the police would show us where it would be held (since it had been rescheduled for another day).  Marcelo, had in fact known where he was going, because he had driven by the building insisting that it should be in the vicinity.  The only reason he couldn’t find it was because it had been cancelled.  After having our plans once again foiled by the protests we headed home.  Making a short stop at the grocery store for bread for dinner.  After a light dinner we headed to bed early, since I would be rising early the next day to catch a flight back to the USA.

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Day 10: 12/8/15 (Quito)

The morning started out with Mother and I taking antihistamines in order to combat the bug bites that seemed to take over our legs.  During breakfast with Valeria and her parents Mother attempted to eat a banana with a spoon and then started to fall asleep at the table.  Father and I knew something must be up, so we sent her back to bed for about an hour.  During this time we explored the town (not Quito) with Valeria.  It was a nice little stroll, including through a park with giant corn statues.  After our little jaunt, we returned to find Mother in a much better state.  It must have been a bad reaction to the antihistamine.

Next we ventured our into Quito with Valeria and her father.  The first place we visited was a gondola that took us up a mountain.  The view of Quito was amazing, it is a beautiful city.  Then we headed over to the giant statue of the Virgin Mary, holding a chain and stepping on a serpent.  I’m a bit more partial to it then the Christ the Redeemer statue in Brazil.  After a tasty lunch of traditional potato cakes at a restaurant with a great view, we ventured into Old Town Quito.

Here we started off our mini-tour with La Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús (Church of the Society of Jesus).  I have not seen so much gold leaf in/on a religious building outside of Southeast Asia, it was amazing (and beautiful).  Valeria had to serve as translator as the guide did not speak English (or did not know the tour in English).  After we left the church we did more walking.  In the main square we saw a large number of police and protestors.  As we continued walking we saw even more police.  I can honestly say I have never seen so many police in my entire life.  We poked our heads into a few other churches and enjoyed the architecture of other buildings from the outside.

On the way back to the town, we drove through Cumbayá, where Valeria’s university is.  After a tasty dinner we all crashed because we had been up so late the night before.

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Day 9: 11/8/15 (Cuzco to Quito)

Having the first half of the day free, Mother and I decided to hit up a few museums before catching our flight to Lima.  The day had dawned gray and chilly so we bundled up and headed out.  We hit up the Museo Historico Regional first and enjoyed learning about the different cultural eras that Peru, and Cuzco in particular, experienced since the last Ice Age.  Next we ventured to Museo de Sito del Qoricancha, which is located near the Sun Temple (Qoricancha).  Here we saw more artifacts from past civilizations.  We also saw skulls that had undergone trepanation and some Incan mummies.  After a brief walk back to the Plaza de Armas we sat enjoyed people watching.  However it started to sprinkle, so Mother and I sought shelter.  And picked Jack’s Cafe, the place where we had dined the night before with the Chicago Crew.  Mother and I decided to split and order of the caramelized banana pancakes.  When it arrived it was nothing like we expected but tasty none-the-less.  Then we headed back to the hotel to await our ride to the airport.

There was some confusion with the taxi driver.  Personally I think we ended up with the wrong one.  But we made it to the airport with plenty of time to spare.  While the plane was slightly delayed we made it to Lima with enough time to have a bite to eat and share a Pisco Sour.  Because we couldn’t leave Peru without drinking at least one, seeing as they were created in Lima.  The flight from Lima to Quito was uneventful.  As Mother and I were standing in the line for immigration, who did we spy but Father.  He smiled and waved at us and we waved back, and waited another 40 minutes before joining him.  Once through customs we met up with Valeria and her father, Marcelo, before heading to their house and bed.

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Day 8: 10/8/15 (Machu Picchu to Cuzco)

The day started off quietly.  Mother and I walked to Aguas Calientes main square, poked our heads in the church, and watched the dogs.  When the market opened up we strolled around it for a couple hours before doing a little more wandering through the town, including up to the hot springs.  After lunch we cruised the market some more, really we were just killing time before our train.  Because we were in no shape to do any more hiking, the day before had nearly killed us.

After 2:50 arrived we made our way to the train station.  There we waited for about half an hour before boarding our train.  As we were settling in there was a tap on our window.  Who should it be, but Tom.  The Chicago Crew would be joining us in Car D.  Our seat companions however, turned out to be two Brazilians.  They were having some sort of drama (tears included).

It was a resting and relaxing three hour train ride back to Cuzco.  That didn't mean it was uneventful.  The journey started off with a tasty snack, including an olive and onion tamale.  After that we saw a grass fire on one of the mountains.  And the lady sitting across the aisle from us remarked: "Is that fire?  I think that's fire."  Mother and I could barely contain our giggles and Mother murmured: "Where there is smoke there is fire."

As the sun was going down there was an announcement on the train.  It was nothing more than an information spiel about a traditional dance.  Little did we know it would shortly be accompanied by said dance.   A young man in a vibrant rainbow suit and cat like mask cavorted throughout the carriage to traditional music.  At the very end he pulled the woman who made the fire comment up and proceeded to dance with her.  She was pretty good sport about the whole thing.  After the dance was the fashion show.  The two stewards proceeded to model alpaca textiles to more music and enthusiastic clapping.  Tom, wearing a Peruvian soccer jersey, decided to join the fun.  And pranced down the aisle, only to disappear behind the curtain at the rear of the car.  Moments later he reappeared wearing a sweater.  Which he proudly marched down the aisle and, with a few hints from Peg, modeled expertly.  All in all it was good fun.  Near the end of the trip I needed to use the loo.  So I ventured forth and beat a quick retreat.  There was a giant window (at least 2 ft x 2 ft) in the bathroom, which was very well lit, and we were cruising through a town.  After we left the town behind I returned once more and turned the light just in case.

After we arrived in Poroy we convened a council with the Chicago Crew.  Dinner plans were made, we would meet in front of Cuzco Cathedral around 8:15.  After a harrowing drive to Cuzco, Mother and I attempted to communicate with the taxi driver, who spoke no English, what time we needed to be picked up.  My German foiled me once again.  I couldn't even get my numbers straight.  Eventually we managed and then proceeded to the hotel.  Where our left luggage was already installed in our room.  So all we had to do was drop our excess baggage before heading to the main square.  We were also reminded that we were at 3,400 meters as we puffed our way up the stairs.  And how much colder it was.

We eventually rendezvoused at 8:30 and the Chicago Crew took us to a part of town we had not visited.  The restaurant was divine.  Mother had a trout sandwich and I had a salami/cheese/caramelized onion/mushroom sandwich.  We enjoyed swapping travel stories.  Unfortunately Madison was not feeling well, so her plate of delicious food was left to be scavenged by her father, aunt, and uncle.  We wandered home, forgoing our Pisco Sours as it was almost 9pm.  Once back at the hotel we nursed our bug bite ridden legs.  Overall another satisfying day in Peru.

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Day 7: 9/8/15 (Machu Picchu)

Even though we were proactive in making sure we had plenty of sleep for our 4:30am alarm, the hotel was not put on notice.  We think a disco party was happening in the lobby.  And who needed a 4:30am alarm when somebody slammed their door at 4:15 on their way out.  Because we chose to have breakfast the line for the buses was long when we arrived at 5:15.  But whose smiling faces should we see but our friends from Chicago, Tom and Crew.  The wait wasn't so long, we were on a bus 1 hour and 10 minutes later.  We tried to make up for lost sleep on the bus ride.

After gaining entrance to Machu Picchu for the second day we headed towards the trails leading farther afield.  On the way we noticed from afar that the Chicago Crowd had linked up again with the Stuttgart German duo for an English tour of the ruins.  Mother and I decided to visit the Sun Gate first and proceeded to hike the 2 km out.  We discovered it was a moderately sloping assent with 260 m elevation gain.  A side note: Machu Picchu is very foggy in the morning, something I knew from last time.  Luckily by the time we arrived at the Sun Gate the fog had drifted away and we had a beautiful view of the Citadel.  Our total round trip time was less than two hours and we felt like we could conquer anything.

Oops!

With our spirits high we started the trek up Machupicchu Mountain.  You have to pay for this extra torture (it's included in certain entrance tickets and our tour company thought we would appreciate it).  After leaving the warden hut it appeared that we would encounter a multitude of steps during our assent to the summit.  This stair climbing took over two hours, covering 2.5 km, with an elevation gain of 610 meters.  Some of those stairs were mighty narrow and mighty steep.  The final push required crossing a narrow ridge before arriving at the lookout.  A 360 degree vantage point, including a spectacular view of Machu Picchu Citadel.  It felt like we were on top of the world until we noticed the white capped mountains peaking from the clouds.  The decent took half the time but was twice as rough on the knees.

This led to the most nutritious lunch we have ever eaten.  To up our electrolyte count Mother and I had to improvise and create homemade Gatorade.  We each had a large Fanta and 67 g bag of chips, and we shared water and a brownie.  Overall we agreed it was the most satisfying lunch we had ever eaten.  After this we returned once more to Machu Picchu.

Of course it was to nap.

After we descended a final time via the bus (we had thought about hiking down but any more stairs and our feet would have gone on strike) we headed to the hotel.  Upon arrival a few things were discovered.  Filthy feet/lower legs, sunburns, and blisters.  After taking showers we rested and read.  Before heading to dinner I thought I should blow my hair dry.  This was a minor mistake.  The blow dryer was a comedic experience.  It would not remain plugged in far enough to stay powered on, the sound it emitted was pathetic, and, on top of everything else, it ate my hair.

After this minor debacle Mother and I found ourselves tucking into some of the classiest and tastiest food so far.  It all started out very romantic and dark as the room was only lit by candles on tables.  However this changed once the room reached capacity and the electric lights were turned on.  After devouring the delicious food we returned to the hotel for another early night.  This time brought on by pure exhaustion.

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Day 6: 8/8/15 (Machu Picchu)

Mother started off the day by exclaiming that it was 9:00, thereby making us two hours late for our pick up.  After a few blinks the numbers reorganized and it turned out to be only 6:09.  This wake call only interrupted a night of confusion.  Both Mother and I thought it was raining heavily every time we gained consciousness.  Turns out the hotel just turned on a water feature.

Francisco was right on time at 7:20 and got us to Ollantaytambo in time for the train before ours.  This excess time enabled us to purchase insect repellent – which we didn’t use when we should have, bananas – that got mangled before devoured, and some much needed water.  Then we tried to board a train that wasn’t ours.  After this we read for a bit and then boarded our train.  The train ride to Aguas Calietnes was relaxing and enjoyable.  When we passed KM82 I reminisced on my last visit to Peru and what it was like hiking in the Andes.

There was some confusion once we disembarked as to where our guide was or how to get to the hotel.  A kind soul pointed us in the direction of our hotel and we arrived with no incident.  After checking in and visiting our room, reception called and let us know our guide was here.  Turns out it wasn’t our guide but a fellow just taking us back to the train station and depositing us with our guide.  Who turned out not to be our guide, just a handler who made sure we got on the bus and told us our guide would meet us at the top.  After a windy bus ride we arrived at Machu Picchu.  It took a few minutes to find our guide and the eclectic English speaking group.  There was another father/daughter duo from Germany (Rostock this time), a young man from Malaysia who was studying in Cardiff, a young woman from England (who was possibly traveling with the young man from Malaysia), and finally an older American woman who was totally ill prepared and ignorant and her two handlers(?).  This woman was not new to Mother and I, we had seen her trying to buy a hat in Ollantaytambo and sat across the aisle from her on the train.  She was unable to transverse much of the ruins (possibly due to her Ugg slippers) and was soon left behind.

We followed the usual route through Machu Picchu (seeing the Temple of the Sun, Temple of the Condor, Hitching Post of the Sun, as well as enjoying the Incan engineering of water aqueducts).  At the quarry our guide, Hernado, had a million dollar question: What are the 7 Wonders of the Ancient World?  Lucky really, that I was along, having done a project on these in 6th grade (10 years ago).  Unfortunately the mausoleum which always cause me problems as an eleven year old thwarted me yet again.  I knew there was a mausoleum but not where it was located (and this is very important to answering the million dollar question).  With few troubles I listed off: the Great Pyramid, Lighthouse of Alexandria, Colossus of Rhodes (the Germans assisted with this answer), Hanging Gardens of Babylon, Temple of Artemis at Ephesus, Statue of Zeus at Olympia.  And then I tried: The Mausoleum at Herculaneum.  I knew this was wrong the moment I spoke because Herculaneum suffered a fate similar to Pompeii.  Eventually I had to admit defeat with the answer: some mausoleum in a place that starts with H.

We finished our tour and ate lunch.  After this we returned to the citadel to do some hiking.  We figured the short hike to the Inka Bridge would be doable in the time we had.  It was an easy walk, if at times nerve racking.  The bridge was very interesting and Mother and I decided that we would never want to walk across it or continue on the trail beyond.  We returned to the citadel and rode the bus back to Aguas Calientes, where we ate dinner and crashed early.  Since we planned to rise at 4:30 the next day.

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Day 5: 7/8/15 (Sacred Valley)

After a far more restful night, Mother and I liberated fruit from breakfast (we freed from constraints two bananas and a nectarine).  Then we were scooped up by Robert to rendezvous with the bus.  Our first sight was of an excitedly waving young girl.  She was part of the Chicago crowd from the day before.  There was a bit of confusion, as half the bus appeared to be Spanish speaking.  Apparently we were just transporting them to their own bus, but not before we had more bodies than seats.  After things settled down we were on the road to our first site.

Phenomenal terraces could be seen from kilometers away; this was our first view of Pisac.  After a level walk in we were greeted with the Incan step, also commonly known as the bane of my existence, especially at 3,400 meters elevation.  Here we encountered a pack of priests on who knows what kind of mission and some traditional dancers.  We also thought we might have misplaced a member of our group, but it turns out he just headed down a little earlier.  Then it was on to Pisca Market.  Mother and I were both successful in finding things to purchase, after doing a little bargaining of course.

Lunch in Urubamba was next up on the itinerary.  As the group had been booked through many agencies we would not all be dining at the same restaurant.  Mother and I ended up with the father/daughter combo out of Stuttgart, Germany, the Turkish couple, and Shannon (the nursing student from Portland, OR) as dining companions.  Alas the older couple from Arkansas, the Chicago crowd, the couple originally from South Korea but reigning from Orange County, CA for the past 15 years, and the two college students from Colorado were split among three other restaurants.  The Germans and I had an interesting conversation in Denglish (German/English).  Dessert was also pretty nummy.

Next we visited Ollantaytambo and 250 steps.  They were no more congenial than the last go round.  After finally conquering the beast we had a beautiful panoramic view that included the quarry where the rocks for the buildings were mined, as well as the granaries.  It was a gorgeous view.  On the way down the 250 steps we encountered the pack of priests again (I really would hate the climb in a black cassock).  We lost the older woman (who was married to the man we thought we lost earlier) temporarily but located at the entrance instead of the exit.  We also lost Shannon, but this was on purpose, she had a train to catch.

In order to get to our next stop we had to drive back through Urubamba.  Here we pushed out the Chicago crew, whose names we had finally learned, Peg (sister), Tom (brother), Dan (Peg’s husband), and Madison (Tom’s daughter).  We wished them well and hoped to see them in the next few days.  Then we headed off to Chinchero.  Here we learned about the Incan freeze dry/dehydration method of preserving potatoes.  And that apparently archeologists are a crazy bunch for willingly eating 500 year old dehydrated potatoes, stored next to a mummy.

After this, the real adventure began.  Mother and I located our driver, who would be returning us to Urubamba for the night, and wished the dwindling number on the bus farewell.  The Germans were concerned we would be spending the night in the parking lot.  But we reassured them that we had transportation.  Turns out the driver’s name is Francisco and he only speaks Spanish (I learned his name using my rusty, 7 year old Spanish).  Once we arrived at the hotel, we found the receptionist also only spoke Spanish.  I had hoped he would be able to translate for Francisco and inform us of the pick time tomorrow morning.  This did not occur, instead gesticulating and saying “manyana” repeatedly finally did the trick.  Pick up is at 7:20. 

Next up was our empty stomachs.  Stomachs we were hoping to fill at the hotel’s restaurant.  Turns out it didn’t exist and we would have to venture forth in order to find substance.  Mother asked me if I could recall how to say “I need dinner” in Spanish.  I could only give her “Tengo hambre,” I’m hungry.  But it worked, she got a recommendation from the receptionist with help from Fernando (not sure exactly who he is, only that we have his personal cell number).  The receptionist flagged down a taxi, which is in fact the Peruvian version of a tuk tuk (we believe they are called Motras).  The motra dropped us in front of a pizza/pasta place.  Mother and I entered with gusto and found the place populated with locals.  We took this as a good sign.  Turns out it was possibly the best pizza of my entire life, though that could be because I was half starved at this point.  I flagged down a motra for a return trip to the hotel.  Overall a 5 out of 5 experience.

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Day 4: 6/8/15 (Cuzco)

We may have arisen at eight but it wasn’t from a restful night.  Mother probably had altitude sickness and we left the space heater on too high.  After breakfast we headed out into the city.  Goal: the local market (think grocery store but open air).  We wandered for a bit, admiring the cuts of meat, piles of fresh fruit, and bags of corn.  Then we returned to the hotel, via a long cut to enjoy more of the city, and rested.  We wanted to be in top form for the city tour in the afternoon.

After a quick lunch Robert herded us to Cuzco Cathedral.  A parade manifested itself and we looked on with interest.  Then Robert handed us off to Angela, our tour guide.  And a motley crew of English speakers.  There was a Dutch family of four (mother, father, daughter, son), a couple from Pittsburg, a family group hailing from Chicago (sister, sister’s husband, brother, brother’s daughter), and an odd assortment of six (an Irish couple, Welsh father and English daughter, English young man, Australian old man).

The first stop of the tour was Cuzco Cathedral.  Nothing to look at from the outside but glittering with gold and silver on the inside.  It was also adorned with religious paintings created by locals as a means of spreading religion, however the Incas did not forgo their beliefs so easily and would often include traditional Incan religious symbols in their paintings.

After a short walk we arrived at Qorikancha or the Temple of the Sun.  It was the most important temple in the Incan Empire during its heyday.  However with the conquest by the Spanish it was partially destroyed and turned into a Dominican order monastery, part of which is still in use as such to this day.

The third stop required a bus trip up a mountain overlooking Cuzco.  This was Saqsayhuamán.  It was a temple to the Thunder Diety.  Mother and I, in a fit of madness, decided to climb to the top tier in ten minutes to get a better view of Cuzco.  We were a bit winded on the decent but decided it had been worth it.  So long as neither of us passed out and tumbled down the steep stairs.

Another short bus trip found us at Qenqo, a temple dedicated to Pacha Mama (Mother Earth).  Here they made mummies, using the natural chill of the cave to enable the process.  The quote of the day was from the young British man, as we were waiting in line to see the cave and alter: “Are we queing for a rock?”

Our next stop was Tambomachay, a rest stop on the Incan Highway.  These stops were every 35 km because a llama will not walk farther in a day.  These rest stops were equipped with food, naturally occurring springs, and weapons.  They were also stopping points on the Incan equivalent of the Pony Express.  Except people did all the running and horses were not introduced to the continent until the Spanish Conquistadors arrived in the 1500’s.  The walk back to the bus was a bit more of a stumble due to the sun setting and it growing dark rapidly.

The final stop was at an alpaca sweater/textile factory.  There we learned how to differentiate between acrylic, adult alpaca, and baby alpaca sweaters.  Mother purchased a beautiful handmade sweater.  Then it was return into the city and delivery in the Plaza de Armas.  Mother and I proceeded to eat dinner (she had trout and I devoured another alpaca).  Then we retired to our hotel for some much needed rest.

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Day 3: 5/8/15 (Lima to Cuzco)

An earlier start after a well rested night.  The day started out with a short jaunt to Iglesia de la Virgen Milagrosa (a church).  This involved traversing a park filled with feral cats, all of whom still seemed to be in bed.  After our mini adventure we returned to the hotel and read for an hour before being retrieved and deposited at the airport.

There were no problems to be had, check in and baggage drop went smoothly as did security.  Food options were limited and so Mother and I had pizza for lunch (think more artisan than Pizza Hut).  The flight was a quick one, only an hour and a half.  Landing in Cuzco was exciting, including a fly by of a mountain (I don't think I'll ever get so up close and personal in such a large plane again).

Once more we had no problems finding our handler, Robert.  The drive to our hotel was slightly less exciting than driving in Lima, but not by much.  It was also far bumpier thanks to the cobblestone streets.  As we registered at the hotel we drank our first cup of Coca Tea.  After that we acclimated to 11,200 feet before heading out to dinner.  Turns out it really is winter here, Mother and I were a bit chilled but it wasn't unbearable.

We dined on the main plaza, facing Cuzco Cathedral.  Mother and I both partook in alpaca, which was very tasty.  I drank hot chocolate (the non-sweetened kind) and mother tried black tea with lemon juice and Pisco (what a brave lady).  She found it very relaxing.  We strolled around the plaza before returning to our hotel for the evening.  There were also some rouge fireworks to be had if you were fast enough to run to the window.

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Day 2: 4/8/15 (Lima)

Today started out slowly.  Mother and I had planned on waking up at 9:00, just so we could go to breakfast (which ended at 10:30).  However we were foiled, the phone rang at around 7:15.  Turns out Mother's luggage had arrived and would be delivered sometime this morning.  We promptly rolled back over and fell asleep.  An hour and a half later we roused ourselves and went to breakfast.

After breakfast we attempted to resume sleeping but were summarily ejected for cleaning.  So we headed to the lobby instead, where we caught up with yesterday's events.  After which we returned to the room and took a nap.  And were happily reunited with Mother's missing baggage.

But the morning wasn't lost.  We once again roused ourselves and ventured out.  After a little walking we arrived at the local handicraft market.  We cased the whole joint and made a couple of purchases.  But knowing we would be visiting other markets did not do all our shopping.

On the way back to the hotel we attempted for find a quick lunch.  But finding no convenience stores we had to settle on what the corner pharmacy could provide.  Turns out it was Inca Kola and Strawberry Sandwich Cookies (think Oreo but with vanilla cookies and strawberry filling).  We supplemented this with granola bars, trail mix, and water.

Then we took up residence in the lobby to wait for our tour guide.  It was a long wait.  Finally she arrived and tucked us safely in the van with our traveling companions.  She introduced herself as Vivian and we were underway.  Thank goodness for Carlos's mad driving skills.  Our companions, an Asian father from LA with his young teenaged son, were a bit stressed by the whole traffic situation.  I am old hat at this, so did not blink an eye when we did high speed 3 inch passes or just wedged ourselves amongst the masses.  I gave Mother a few reassuring pats and told her this was standard.

We then had a whirlwind history lesson on the evolution of Lima.  Visiting important sites such as: Plaza Mayor (the main plaza) and San Francisco Cathedral and Monastery.  We even ventured underground in the catacombs.  Where I had to do head patrol and a lot of ducking to avoid bruising my already tender noggin (thanks to me being a klutz the day before leaving Idaho).  There were also old dusty bones to enjoy in the stale humidity of the crypt.

After the city tour was concluded, our companions might have napped the last bit, we were dropped off at our hotel.  Since we hadn't had much of a lunch we sought substantial substance immediately.  And were not too disappointed with our find.  It was a short walk culminating in a tasty traditional steak dish.  Then we headed for the room and bed.

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Day 1: 3/8/15 (Boise to Lima)

Our first clue that the day was not going to be smooth sailing was at security at the Boise airport.  Apparently Mom's nuts (trail mix) were too much to handle and one of my journals looked "weird."  This resulted in both of our carry-ons being searched.  It was an ominous start.

Once we arrived in Los Angeles it turned out we needed to go to Terminal 2.  We were in Terminal 5.  It was a bit of hike.  But we needed some exercise, right?

The flight to Mexico City was a calm three hours.  Mom and I both watched The Avengers: Age of Ultron.  Did I mention we weren't sitting together and had no idea what the other was doing?

Things went south upon arrival in Mexico City.  Like really, really south.  It does not matter if you are staying in the country or just catching a connecting flight - you have to go through immigration and customs. (Who's silly idea was that?)  Well, let's just say the line was ridiculous.  We spent over an hour in it and grew increasingly stressed, our flight was supposed to have started boarding.  [There was also a group of six Americans going to Cancun under similar duress.]  So we sent me as sacrificial bait to appeal to people's better nature.  I managed to find a nice family that let Mom and I jump ahead.  We crawled through immigration and were met with the monster that was customs.  We had no form, apparently we needed this form, and this form was only in Spanish.  It was a nightmare but we managed.  After that it was a dash to drop our bags and sprint up the escalator (passed the Americans going to Cancun, apparently their flight had gone on without them).  And then we encountered security.  Those darn nuts and journal (or possibly the camera was at fault this time).  Then it was a sprint to Gate 67 where the flight to Lima should have been mostly through boarding (because it turned out the hike in LA wasn't enough exercise for one day).

Turns out, it hadn't even started.  And wouldn't depart for another hour.  And when we finally did board, we sat on the tarmac for 45 minutes before even taking off.

While the flight itself was mostly uneventful Mom and I were basically seated in the loo.  We were row 30 of 30.  Luckily we could still recline.  Though that didn't stop me from practicing contortion.

When we landed in Peru we were aggressive in getting past people on the way to immigration.  We were not going to be repeating Mexico City (had it really only been 9 hours since that debacle?).  Immigration was a breeze.  But baggage claim for customs threw a wrench.  My bag was the last off and Mom's didn't make it.  So we got help from some nice gentlemen and continued on our journey sans Mother's baggage.

It was 1:15 am when we finally emerged to find our handler.  They thought we managed to get to the hotel without them (if only we were that talented).  Then we had a 30 minute drive to the hotel, which turned out to be a little longer due to some very interesting road construction.  But we finally made it at 2:00 in the morning.

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The Next Adventure

Tomorrow I embark on a journey to a country I’ve visited before and a country that is new.  Ever since my mother was in elementary school she has wanted to visit Machu Picchu.  Three years ago my parents hosted a girl from Ecuador.  These two facts have meshed and are the basis for my next journey.

I will be traveling with my mother to Peru and Ecuador.  I have seen Machu Picchu before and never dreamed I would see it again.  I couldn’t be more excited.  I am also ecstatic to be traveling with my mother.  I can’t wait to see her joy when she sees the ruins in the mountains.

Here is to an awesome trip!

The Itinerary:

Day 1: Travel Boise to Lima

Day 2: Lima

Day 3: Travel Lima to Cuzco

Day 4: Cuzco

Day 5: Sacred Valley

Day 6: Machu Picchu

Day 7: Machu Picchu

Day 8: Travel Machu Picchu to Cuzco

Day 9: Travel Cuzco to Quito

Day 10: Quito

Day 11: Quito

Day 12: Travel Quito to Boise