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@twilightsireninspirations
MAKING THE SWITCH TO ECO FRIENDLY AND REUSABLE BAMBOO FACE WIPES
Nearly a year ago I made the resolution to cut back on plastic usage in my day to day life.
I made simple changes to shopping habits like buying fruit and vegetables at the market instead of the big supermarkets. It seems so unneccessary that so many fruit and vegetable products are wrapped in plastic when they have their own protective outer skin- often not eaten anyway. It felt good to also be…
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SKADI: UNDERBUST CORSET WASPIE
SKADI: UNDERBUST CORSET WASPIE
The latest sample for the ‘Corset a week’ challenge is the SKADI underbust corset waspie.
For the sample I used the remaining claret red silk from my customer order from the previous week (blog post here) and black mesh. The corset is constructed from 14 panels (7 each side and measures a 23″ corset waist. It features a busk closure at the front (with busk modesty panel) and 8 sets of eyelets for…
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AUTUMN IS HERE
The latest project I have completed was a custom order for a client who wanted a corset with a zip fastening to replace the busk front closure.
The client chose a claret red silk dupion to pair with the natural mesh used on the Frances style underbust corset pattern. A chunky zip with silver teeth and big circular puller was picked and co-ordinating eyelets.
I am happy to swap the busk for a…
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NERTHUS: UNDERBUST CORSET WASPIE
NERTHUS: UNDERBUST CORSET WASPIE
The latest sample for the ‘Corset a week’ challenge is the Nerthus underbust corset waspie. The pattern is a fusion of the Agata dipped front upper edge and Vellamo shaped lower edge.
For the sample I used a purple silk from my archive of fabrics and black mesh. The corset is constructed from 14 panels (7 each side and measures a 20″ corset waist. It features a busk closure at the front (with…
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RUNA: UNDERBUST CORSET WASPIE
RUNA: UNDERBUST CORSET WASPIE
Over the last couple of weeks I have been developing several new pattern variations on the short waspie style corset belt.
I love the versatility of these garments. Not only are they fantastic for those with a short torso but they are easy to wear and style. They make a great addition to any lingerie set or could be used to layer over an outfit as a cincher belt.
The RUNA style was based on an…
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RUNA: UNDERBUST CORSET WASPIE
RUNA: UNDERBUST CORSET WASPIE
Over the last couple of weeks I have been developing several new pattern variations on the short waspie style corset belt.
I love the versatility of these garments. Not only are they fantastic for those with a short torso but they are easy to wear and style. They make a great addition to any lingerie set or could be used to layer over an outfit as a cincher belt.
The RUNA style was based on an…
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CORSET A WEEK CHALLENGE
CORSET A WEEK CHALLENGE
Some time ago I decided to challenge myself to making a corset a week starting from scratch with a new pattern. The patterns may be inspired by historical garments, patents, vintage advertising or modifying existing patterns in my archive. Each corset will be a blank canvas in terms of fabric choice, trims, embellishment. Whilst creating one off samples for the shop the overall objective…
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This is the second part to a two part series for C1941/1942 Avro laced back corset with belt (utility) focusing on the pattern and construction. The first article can be found here.
The garment was traced off the original garment before being digitised into CAD software. This will be the first pattern available for digital download from my new Etsy store. I made two versions of this corset. The first to replicate the outer part of the pattern using the same construction techniques as the original vintage garment. This would be my test run of the pattern pieces. The second version I would adapt to my own measurements and use it for my design brand Twilight Siren.
VERSION 1: This version is made following the same construction as the outer part of the corset. Two part corset comprising of 5 panels either side in a single layer of coutil. It has a split front busk and lacing at the centre back supported each side with two bones of flat steel. The centre front and centre back panels are faced. Seams are backed with single casings of herringbone weave tape encasing the boning. The top and lower edges are bound in a ribbon tape.
The centre front/ side front and side front/side panel seams are constructed using the felled seam method to encase the seam allowance. Bone casings are positioned more vertically up and down the corset rather than following the seam line. This sample can be purchased through my Etsy store here.
Measurements as Follows: Waist 26″ Hip 32″
VERSION 2 (OSTARA) I adapted the pattern to my own measurements
The corset is constructed from a silk taffeta backed with coutil (pin rolled pieces). Centre front and centre back casings also made with silk backed with coutil. I adapted the makeup slightly from the original garment (joining all the seams right sides together and placing the bone channel to the inside of the garment enclosing 2 bones). I also chose a longer length busk to go the full length of the garment
For this sample I omitted the underbelt seen on the original 1940’s garment focusing on cut and shape over making a historically accurate reproduction.
The corset is finished with gold hardware including the busk and eyelets contrasting nicely with the silk- a little out of my comfort zone as I don’t tend to work with gold.
The corset is decorated with gold tone hand cut lace applique and finished with bead and sequin embellishment.
The Sample can be purchased through my own shop TWILIGHT SIREN here
THE PDF PATTERN CAN BE PURCHASED HERE
DOWNLOADABLE FILES: PATTERN PIECES GARMENT INFORMATION PACK: INCLUDING LOTS OF PHOTOS OF THE ORIGINAL GARMENT (12 PAGE PDF) CONSTRUCTION NOTES: STEP BY STEP GUIDE ON MAKING UP THE GARMENT, NOTIONS (3 PAGE PDF)
C1941/1942 AVRO LACED BACK CORSET WITH BELT (UTILITY) PART 2 This is the second part to a two part series for C1941/1942 Avro laced back corset with belt (utility) focusing on the pattern and construction.
I am so pleased to announce the launch of my online Etsy store earlier this week LACED UNLACED PATTERNS for historical corset patterns.
The first pattern available is the C1941-42 AVRO LACED BACK CORSET WITH UNDERBELT here
This is a 10 pattern piece corset pattern taken from a 1940’s corset girdle from my personal collection of vintage garments. It features an inner support belt which you can choose to include in making up. Original Article here
The pattern comes in the original vintage garment size ONLY.
WAIST 26″ HIP 32″
DOWNLOADABLE FILES: PATTERN PIECES GARMENT INFORMATION PACK: INCLUDING LOTS OF PHOTOS OF THE ORIGINAL GARMENT (12 PAGE PDF) CONSTRUCTION NOTES: STEP BY STEP GUIDE ON MAKING UP THE GARMENT, NOTIONS (3 PAGE PDF)
SKILL LEVEL: INTERMEDIATE
The pattern is provided in PDF format ready to be printed on A3 paper. You will need to print the pattern to the actual size. A scale is included. This pattern could be printed on A4 and stuck together carefully.
The pattern does include seam allowances. The pattern and construction guide advises on the seam allowance but do not feel you have to follow it strictly if you have your own preferred method of make.
A Toile could be made to check the fit of the pattern. The pattern can be used as a basic block to amend to your own size requirements. Check the length of the Pattern. It can be lengthened or shortened at the waist line if required.
The pattern can be drafted to your measurements for an additional fee if you do not feel confident in drafting your own pattern.
Patterns are for personal use and may not be copied, published, resold or distributed in any form.
NOTE: This listing is for the pattern only and does not include the physical garment.
LACED:UNLACED- HISTORICAL CORSET PATTERNS- SHOP OPEN I am so pleased to announce the launch of my online Etsy store earlier this week…
C1900-1905 CHILDRENS CORSET: SYMINGTON CORSET COLLECTION RESOURCES CENTRE (BARROW-ON-SOAR, UK)
Museum Ref: A48 Summary Dated 1900-1905 Button front children’s corset constructed in a single layer of dove grey sateen coutil. Double back lacing supported with flat steel bones on the outer edges of the eyelets. Seams are covered with single casings of coutil encasing the boning to the exterior of the garment. The top and lower edges are bound and the top edge features a lace trim. The button…
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AGATA: UNDERBUST CORSET WASPIE
AGATA: UNDERBUST CORSET WASPIE
The AGATA underbust corset waspie pattern was a move on from our short black satin coutil and mesh style. I wanted to drop the centre front scooping up and around the body to the back. I also lowered the centre front lower edge and sides to provide a little more control to the stomach area. I chose a purple shot blue silk dupion and backed it onto coutil to match a beautiful beaded lace from…
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FEMME REBELLE MAGAZINE PUBLICATION
Twilight Siren were lucky enough to be featured in a four page spread in this months publication of Femme Rebelle Magazine (March 2018 Book 2) With a Valentines theme in mind I especially made a version of the JADE body harness playsuit in red complete with gold hardware. I love the styling of the shoot layering the harness over a red latex corset by AM Statik and pasties by Catriona Stewart…
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VOLUSPA: BUSKLESS UNDERBUST CORSET WASPIE
VOLUSPA: BUSKLESS UNDERBUST CORSET WASPIE
The VOLUSPA pattern was inspired by the cut of the riding/sports corsets C1900, short in length and finishing high over the hip. The corset is constructed from 13 panels and measures a 20″ corset waist. I chose to make this sample buskless using a single centre front panel to hold 6 flat steels in stitched channels to compress to the stomach. The corset features a further 16 bones; a combination…
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HARNESS AND CORSET PHOTOSHOOT WITH GRACE ELKIN PHOTOGRAPHY
Toward the end of last year I spent an afternoon photographing a collection of pieces for my SHOP and ETSY store. I posted a behind the scenes sneak peak blog post of the shoot here. All the harnesses are made from luxury satin strap elastic sourced in the UK and feature metal hardware. An option of black silver of gold is usually available on most styles. Twilight Siren makes everything to size…
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NOTE *This article was originally published January 2017 for Foundations Revealed. The link can be found here.
In part 1 I worked with a pattern developed from ‘The Athletic Corset’ as featured in ‘A practical guide to corset cutting and making’ by William D.F. Vincent.
Now I’ll go on to create my own corset.
Given both its likely date and its function-over-fashion design, this corset could have been constructed using a single layer of coutil, keeping it lightweight but durable for wear during sporting activities. For this reason I chose a black broche (a heavyweight coutil with a subtle dot pattern) and a strong powernet (in place of the elastic webbing)
The corset was cut as follows:
2 layers of broche to sandwich the busk: CUT 2 PAIRS CENTRE FRONT
2 layers of broche for centre back eyelet panel: CUT 2 PAIRS CENTRE BACK
Single layer of broche for the rest of the plain pieces: CUT 1 PAIR FRONT, SIDE BACK, BACK
Single layer of powernet used in place of the woven elastic panels: CUT 1 PAIR SIDE FRONT
Preparing the Boning Channels
I decided to sew the corset seams wrong sides together, using external bone casings to cover the seam allowances. The pattern also indicated the placement of additional exterior channels, most of them down the centres of the panels.
I began with 27mm wide strips of broche, cut parallel to the selvedge, and used a 12mm bias tape maker to create single bone casings for the channels covering the seams.
For the other channels I wanted double bone casings, so I cut those channels 52mm wide and used a 25mm tape maker for those. When applying them, I stitched close to the edge either side, and then added the dividing line of stitching down the centre to create the twin channel.
Inserting the busk
The pattern used a simple flat steel busk. The two CENTRE FRONT pieces were placed right sides together and stitched in order to insert the busk in the usual way.
Preparing the FRONT panel
Following the marking on the pattern, the shaped dart in the FRONT panel was stitched closed before joining to either the centre front or side front pieces.
A double bone channel was also needed on this panel. This will be the only one applied before the main construction, since it seems to disappear into the FRONT/CENTRE FRONT seam.
The angled placing made positioning tricky as I tried to make the sides symmetrical. I was concerned about whether making the channel end in the seam would create awkward bulk, and whether I would be able to stitch down another channel to overlap the seam.
Assembling the front section
I stitched the FRONT/CENTRE FRONT seams wrong sides together, and then the FRONT/SIDE FRONT seams in the same way. This was the seam where the broche met the powernet, so I used a secure stitch on either end of the seam to control the powernet whilst stitching, and stop it from slipping.
CENTER BACK panel: Boning channels
I created the centre back edge by stitching CENTER BACK broche sections right sides together, then turning to the right side and pressing. I used the side of my sewing machine foot as a guide to create three equal channels for the eyelets and flat steels.
Assembling the back section
I stitched the BACK/CENTRE BACK seams wrong sides together, and then the BACK/SIDE BACK seams in the same way.
Joining front and back sections and applying bone casings
The front and back sections were joined wrong sides together. Again, secure stitches were used on each end to help control the powernet.
Applying the bone casings
I trimmed the seam allowances and pressed them down. (I turned the seam allowances in the powernet back onto the broche reasoning that stitching the boning casings onto the power net might cause the seam to crack under pressure). Then I applied the single bone casings over them, on the outside of the corset.
Then I applied the wider double bone channels to the centre front panel and side back panel. I should have used a double channel for the back according to hte pattern, but I found that the panel wasn’t wide enough, so a single casing had to make do instead.
Boning
I used spiral steel boning throughout most of the corset, with flat steels either side of the eyelet channel in the centre back.
Binding
I wanted to use the broche for binding, but found that it would cause difficulty when sewing, especially at the ends. Instead I chose a satin finish pre-folded bias binding. I first machine stitched it to the right side and then flipped it over and top stitched in place.
Eyelets
Finally I inserted twelve pairs of eyelets, as marked on the pattern.
The Finished Corset
I was pleased with the finished corset. I love the textural contrast of the mesh to the broche fabric. My choice of a sheer mesh allows the undergarment or skin to show through, adding interest to an otherwise fairly plain design.
Having worn and tested the corset with lots of bending and stretching, I felt that it was supportive, yet the stretch mesh panel provided me with some freedom of movement. The corset could be laced closed, reducing the waist but not being too restrictive.
I was pleased with the cut of the corset around the cup shape and under the arm. It was cut low, allowing full movement of the arm, yet still had good coverage of the breasts. The pattern could easily be adapted for use as a fashion corset.
The corset is cut short at the back, allowing the wearer to bend and sit comfortably.
I liked the idea of the double bone casing, providing both additional support and an eye-catching feature. A contrast colour could be used to make them stand out.
I would probably remove the dart from the pattern for future use, and instead take the fullness out of the front panels from the sides. It could be tapered a little more at the centre front/front seam, bringing the corset closer to the body.
Vincent’s Athletic Corset does perform as advertised. It’s a comfortable, everyday corset, providing control and shape for the wearer whilst allowing considerable freedom of movement.
C1890-1900 THE ATHLETIC CORSET PART 2 NOTE *This article was originally published January 2017 for Foundations Revealed. The link can be found
ALTERNATIVE SIN CATWALK EVENT: FASHION SHOW AT 'THE STATION' BRISTOL
ALTERNATIVE SIN CATWALK EVENT: FASHION SHOW AT ‘THE STATION’ BRISTOL
HAPPY NEW YEAR everyone and welcome to 2018! Twilight Siren kicked off the year last weekend with their first fashion show ‘The Alternative Sin Catwalk’ held at ‘The Station’ in Bristol. The event showcased lots of independent alternative brands from all over the UK. Twilight Siren provided a collection of 4 outfits for the show – some of our favourite harness pieces all available to buy from…
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THE ATHLETIC CORSET: PART 1
NOTE *This article was originally published January 2017 for Foundations Revealed. The link can be found here. This is the first part in a two part series discussing ‘The Athletic Corset’ pattern as featured in ‘A practical guide to corset cutting and making’ compiled by William D.F. Vincent. (More about this book here.) This article will discuss the pattern and how I have interpreted it whereas…
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