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@visitwestfjords
In order to see the northern lights as clear as possible we aimed for the highest point available: the 998m Kaldbakur, the highest mountain in the Westfjords, located between the fjords Arnarfjordur and Dyrafjordur.
I never get tired of short spontaneous adventures, to explore the surroundings of my home. There are surprisingly many fantastic spots within an hour from my home in Isafjordur that I have not been to. One of them was Kaldbakur mountain.
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My girlfriend is not one for cold. How I convinced her to go to Iceland for the summer I’m not sure, but the natural hot springs were a good selling point. We met up with some friends and their son in Isafjordur, packed up a camper and headed out of the Hot Spring Tour of 2015.
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During the summer the Nature Child School has classes and courses every week; one evening course every week and full weekend classes. There are different themes as Dagrún explains, “One time we had plant theme class where we picked edible and medicinal plants, boiled and drank them. Also we have been experimenting with natural dyes. We used a dooryard dock to dye yarn. We’ve had beach and sea theme where we learned about the tides, sent out a message in a bottle, and made jewelry from drift wood.”
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Aren was seen walking around Isafjordur sporting a woolen sweater and long blond hair. He could have passed for a local Icelander – which it turns out he almost is. His family emigrated from Iceland to Canada – where Aren was born – in the early 1900s and they share a very Icelandic last name: Egilson. This was his first time in Iceland and he decided that he wanted to do things his way, so he walked. “I started in Reykjavik and walked northwards. I didn’t stick to any trail or path, just let my compass lead the way. Twenty days later I ended up in Hornvik and caught a boat to Isafjordur,” Aren explained. “ I find that I’m more in tune with nature when hiking where few other people are. There is something about just hiking on your own.”
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In recent years the number of guests to Krossnes pool has multiplied. Sigrún guesses that social media has something to do with that: "We have never promoted the pool to tourists, but there have many articles been written about it and it pops up frequently on social media. Now we're receiving 6000 visitors during the two busiest summer months—which is a huge number considering our location."
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The museum was established and is run by the legendary Jón Kr. Ólafsson whose persona alone has for decades been one of Bildudalur's main attractions. For decades Jón has collected items from Icelandic music history: LP's, posters, clothes, shoes, jewelry, and other memorabilia.
"I opened the museum on the 17th of June, 2000, but I've been gathering objects for much longer. I was working at the shrimp factory here in Bildudalur, but had helpers in Reykjavik running all over town to rescue things that were simply going to the dumpsters" Jon says. "We Icelanders are always taking pride in our culture and heritage, but these things were being thrown away. If I hadn't gathered these objects, they would all be gone."
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Clearly there are advantages to having an abundance of hot water flowing from the ground as they have in Reykholar. I handed Dísa a 500 ISK bill in exchange for a bag full of juicy, delicious tomatoes. By far one of the best purchases I’ve made here in the Westfjords.
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In Iceland it's common to change work careers multiple times during your lifetime. In small communities like Reykholar it's also common to hold multiple positions in the society. If you travel to Reykholar the chances of you meeting Harpa Eiriksdottir are pretty big. When we passed through there this summer Harpa was the manager of the library and the town's swimming pool. She also took care of the Eagle centre in Króksfjarðarnes and was the general manager of the Boat and gift of Nature exhibition - which doubles as the tourist information office.
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At Melanes in Rauðisandur it happened. "The weather was good, time was right, location was right, and it was the right girl. I asked her to marry me. And she said yes!"
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We arrived by wings to the far shores of the Strandir coast. Within moments of touching down, our pilot Örn – whose name aptly means Eagle – was back in the air headed home to Isafjordur, leaving us wide eyed with our packs on the dirt runway. Just beyond, hundreds of Arctic terns dove aggressively above their nesting ground, and beyond that the rest of our gang waited in a warm pool.
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You know you're off the beaten path when you hike over a mountain, find a guest book and discover that the last entry was written two years earlier by your guide.
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Good thing you decided to bring your tent along, because there are spectacular views from up here. On one side you can look down and see Isafjordur out in the bay, and across on the other side, Hornstrandir. Surprise! You brought a beer for you and your friend. Enjoy them as you look down onto town. Get some sleep.
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The museum hall itself is dark and ominous. The first thing you see is a giant replica of Fjörulalli himself. Fjörulalli is the most commonly known sea monster of the Westfjords. Half sheep and half monster, he supposedly pushes people into the sea and drowns them; inciting fear in all of the children of the Westfjords.
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When the light never ceases, time expands almost infinitely. The days here have no clear beginning and certainly no defined end. If you ask me what I did yesterday, I admit I may bend the truth. My memory is anything but linear – it zigzags backwards, rearranging events and collapsing whole days together. With no distinction between light and dark, I’m unable to comprehend how time is passing by normal standards.
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Haflidi Adalsteinsson was born at Hvallátur island in Breidafjordur bay where his family has lived for generations. The islanders were known for their boatbuilding skills and Hafliði brought this skill with him when he moved to the mainland. Now he lives in Reykholar, building and fixing old boats. He also co-organizes the "Breidafjordur Boat Days" - an annual event that happens the first weekend in July, where owners of old wooden boats meet and sail together.
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At Brjanslaekur the harbor is not only busy with travelers going on the ferry Baldur over the Breidafjordur bay, Þórður and his colleagues are also busy loading a big container with dry cod heads.
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Now Birna may start seeing more archeology focused visitors after recent media attention. Since 1912 it's been known that there are ancient heathen graves on the land. However, no serious research has been done on the site and Birna and her family and friends have simply been picking up bones that they have found. A couple of weeks ago they found a jaw with all the teeth intact. "They say it's from heathen settlement times, 1.100 years old" Birna says.
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