The Untamed Photobook Translations [6/?]: An Analysis of Wei Wuxian’s Fashion Style
Patterns of the inner clothes at the collar, the multiple layers show and emphasise the red element
The belt is tied diagonally, portraying a confused state of mind and complicated emotions; the lower half of the robes split open, symbolising Wei Wuxian’s constantly unrestrained behaviour
His outfits are generally in the style of a Duanda [1], reflecting capability, and are chiefly close-fitting, emphasising the feeling of a wandering swordsman.
The clothes of the Jiang family are designed to be more free and unrestrained, utilising white-green and pale purple as base colours to invoke the feeling of a wandering swordsman. Compared to the Lan family clothes which reflect a strict and tightly bound feeling, the collars of the Jiang family clothes are much softer and more casual.
However, due to multiple ups and downs in Wei Wuxian’s life history, his clothes are designed to be more complicated, with black and red as the main colours. After being thrown into the Burial Mounds, there is an obvious difference in his clothes, which become mainly black. To prevent this from looking too dull, his black clothes are slightly embellished with red, and the mix of red and black makes his clothes appear to be much more enriched.
The sleeves are tied tightly with strips of cloth that are embedded in the sleeves
The fissure-like patterns on his outer garment echo the feeling of the Stygian Tiger Seal
[1] 短打 (duǎn dǎ) is a type of hanfu, designed for labour, easy movement, and convenience.
[http://blog.sina.com.cn/s/blog_c588b1f30101dcdk.html]
Set No. 1: Broad-Sleeved Long Robe
First Appearance: studying in Cloud Recesses
Material & Colour Combination:
A standardised Lan family uniform which is mainly white in colour, it is decorated prominently with the Jiang family emblem, the lotus flower, on the shoulder. It has an overall light and clear feeling, emphasising a sense of youthfulness.
At the top of his head is a small bun, held by a hair accessory in the shape of a flower stamen encircling the bun
Tied at his waist is a narrow blue belt with no jade ornaments
Set No. 2: Bound-Sleeved Long Robe
First Appearance: descending the mountain at the end of studying
Material & Colour Combination:
Overall, the main colour of this outfit is deep blue, with fish scale patterns. The collar is adorned with a large piece of black leather. The inner clothes are red and comparatively bright and fresh, which sometimes can be seen and other times is hidden when walking, emphasising the willfulness and spiritedness of a youth.
A neat, agile hairdo, it is accompanied by a leather hair crown with a round silver button. The iconic red hair lace makes its first appearance.
Set No. 3: Flying Shoulder [2] Long Robe
First Appearance: investigating the case of the Chang family
Material & Colour Combination:
This is Wei Wuxian’s first outfit that resembles war clothes. A mainly black outfit, the flying shoulders are glossier and more lustrous than the rest of the fabric, resembling leather and bearing patterns in the shape of water droplets. The middle clothes are grey with faint ripples of silver and grey, while the inner clothes reveal a bit of red at the collar. Layer by layer, the colours progressively increase in intensity – a very harmonious combination of colours which at the same time gives a valiant and heroic feeling.
The bracers are made of leather and dotted with little beads, while on the flip side it is decorated with a bright red lace
[2] 飞肩 (fēi jiān), lit. flying shoulder, refers to the stiffer material at the shoulders which gives the appearance of broader shoulders
Set No. 4: Bound-Sleeved Flying Shoulder Long Robe
First Appearance: Wen family lectures
Material & Colour Combination:
With an overall deep grey colour, the outer clothes are adorned with flying shoulders and are of a different shade of grey from the middle clothes, creating a sense of gradation. The inner clothes remain bright red, embellishing the collar, but the red initially at the bottom of the clothes has been hidden. The material used is simpler than that of the earlier period, matching how he is currently undergoing a period of suffering and hardship.
Set No. 5: Folded, Bound-Sleeved Long Robe
First Appearance: slaughter in the Xuanwu cave
Material & Colour Combination:
The colour of the outer clothes is a deep blue that is close to black, while the cloth is patterned with zig-zag folds. The middle clothes are lined with deep blue while the inner clothes are bright red, revealing a bit of red at the collar.
Leather bracers dotted with silver beads
Set No. 6: Ink Black Bound-Sleeved Long Robe
First Appearance: bloodbath at Lotus Pier
Material & Colour Combination:
The main colour of the outer clothes is greyish blue, embellished with large ink black patches. There is still a bit of red revealed at the collar, and the bottom of the outfit also reveals faint traces of red. Overall, the outfit has a slightly more dignified and solemn feel to it.
Set No. 7: Flying Shoulder Long Robe with Cloak
First Appearance: on the run, removal of golden core
Material & Colour Combination:
While the outfit is overall black in colour, the front of the chest is embellished with red tassels, while the middle clothes and waist sash are in a corresponding purple. At the shoulders are a pair of flying shoulders, attached to a cloak.
At his waist is an eye-catching purple waist sash
Set No. 8: Bound-Sleeved Cloth Clothes
First Appearance: caught by Wen Chao, thrown into the Burial Mounds
Material & Colour Combination:
The overall colours of the outfit are grey and black. Since he is on the run, the clothes appear to be worn out and messy, giving a sense of wandering. The inner clothes have also changed to black.
When he is thrown into the Burial Mounds, a spirit locking pouch is hung from his waist
Set No. 9: Flambuoyant Flying Shoulder Long Robe
First Appearance: return of the patriarch
Material & Colour Combination:
The overall material resembles lacquer and is adorned with fish scale patterns. It is flambuoyant and loud, like armour; a magnificent breath before exterminating everything before him, creating an aura of fierceness. It has many small details, and many parts are put together via a splicing technique. The left part of the clothes have a unique beaded and striped pattern, and the red of the inner clothes once again makes its appearance.
Forgoing the leather hair crown, he now only uses a fluttering red ribbon to tie up his hair.
Set No. 10: Bound-Sleeved Flying Shoulder Long Robe
First Appearance: Phoenix Mountain Hunt
Material & Colour Combination:
With an overall bluish black colour, the outer clothes have branch-shaped and chequered prints. The bottom half of the clothes split open, revealing the bright red inner clothes. The leather bracers have been replaced with black cloth.
Set No. 11: Rough Cloth Long Robe
First Appearance: living in the Burial Mounds
Material & Colour Combination:
Made of rough cloth, this outfit is overall purplish grey. The outer clothes are a plain, deep purple long robe, tied at his waist with a simple red cloth. Overall, this outfit matches the period of life in the Burial Mounds.
Set No. 12: Tight-Sleeved Rough Cloth Long Robe
First Appearance: living in the Burial Mounds
Material & Colour Combination:
During the period of his life in the Burial Mounds, his clothes are comparatively simple and plain. This set of cloth clothes only consists of a simple double-layered set of clothes. The greyish yellow inner clothes and purplish grey outer clothes with faint patterns go harmoniously together.
Set No. 13: Bound-Sleeved Long Robe with Red Sides
First Appearance: slaughter at Qiongqi Pass, battle at Nightless City
Material & Colour Combination:
The outfit with the most iconic combination of black and red in the show. The red inner clothes, middle clothes made of a folded fabric material and that resemble war clothes, and the black outer clothes with sides lined in bright red – together, these show the increasing interweaving of red and black, layer by layer. With the two broad red plackets hanging at the sides, and the fluttering red inner clothes at the bottom half of the outfit that are sometimes seen and sometimes hidden, this outfit is very eye-catching in the night sky, giving off a magnificent yet tragic aura.
Forgoing the leather hair crown and once again replacing it with the red ribbon, his hair is now tied in a high ponytail, giving off a sense of willfulness and showiness, yet with a hint of tragedy
Set No. 14: Black Bound-Sleeved Long Robe
First Appearance: 16 years later, leaving the Mo family residence
Material & Colour Combination:
With an overall black colour, the cloth material is evidently grander yet more exquisite than before. Although it is mostly black, the layers are still very abundant. [3] While the inner clothes are black, the middle clothes have an added layer of reflective pale gold material, such that when he walks, it will shimmer subtly. The outer clothes and layers consist of a woven yarn material. From this point on, the colour red rarely appears on his clothes.
His belt is no longer worn in a diagonal way, but instead he uses a neater and more proper circular buckle belt fastened at his waist
He still ties his hair up with a red ribbon, and this is his most evident feature after his return
[3] The author uses the word 丰富 (fēng fù) here, which usually means abundant and plentiful. Here, I’m guessing it’s not meant to be in the literal sense, but more towards the meaning that even though his clothes are mostly black, it is not plain but still rich in texture and intricately designed.
Set No. 15: Bound-Sleeved Long Robe with Hidden Flowers
First Appearance: after his identity is revealed at Golden Carp Tower, return to Cloud Recesses
Material & Colour Combination:
This is a very simple attire, with the white inner clothes in combination with a purplish black outer robe. A silvery grey band lines the edge of the collar of the outer robe, echoing the hidden silvery grey floral pattern on the back, creating a simple attire that nevertheless possesses a refined aura.
Bracers with diamond patterns and beads, allowing for agility
Set No. 16: Bound-Sleeved Flying Shoulder Long Robe
First Appearance: return to Lotus Pier, praying in the Jiang family ancestral hall
Material & Colour Combination:
Since this period has slightly more fighting scenes, the clothes once again resume a style that is close to war clothes. An outfit that is mostly black in colour, the outer clothes are made of a material that is rich in lustre and has fish scale-patterned folds, resembling battle armour, and the flying shoulders give an effect of outstanding heroism. The inner clothes are made of a black and grey fabric with subtle patterns, and his wrists are wrapped with simple cloth.
A simply tied black leather belt, once again tied in a diagonal way
Set No. 17: Bound-Sleeved Long Robe with Spotted Pattern
First Appearance: playing music together at Cloud Recesses
Material & Colour Combination:
The overall black-coloured outfit is patterned with large, flock printed, silver and grey spots. The inner clothes are black, and the material is comparatively much elegant, outlining his tall and upright figure and portraying the carefree spirit of being able to let go of all his worries after everything has been revealed.
Set No. 18: Bound-Sleeved Long Robe with Stripes
First Appearance: return from travels
Material & Colour Combination:
The last set of clothes that Wei Wuxian wears in the show. The outfit is mainly black and grey in colour. The black inner clothes accompany the deep grey outer robe, which is embellished with flowing silver grey stripes. At each side of the shoulder is a wide pocket made of leather [4], extending to the cuffs and replacing the braces.
[4] This is the closest word for word translation to what the author has written (皮质宽囊边 pí zhì kuān náng biān) but after looking at the final scene, what she probably means is something like those cuts in a baguette (lol). The leather fabric doesn’t join completely together so one tip of the cut is at his shoulder while the other tip is at his wrist, and the centre fabric between seems a little like a pocket/ pouch (i.e. 囊 “náng”).
[Part 1 Yunmeng Jiang] [Part 2 Gusu Lan] [Part 3 Qishan Wen] [Part 4 Qinghe Nie] [Part 5 Lanling Jin]
