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Boozy Desserts at Spirtied from Wall Street Journal
I wanna go here she sounds like fun!
Sachi Asian Bistro
I’m always game to try new restaurants and I was fortunate to be invited to a pre-opening preview of Sachi 2 weeks ago. Sachi is an Asian concept from master chef Pichet Ong ( Qi, Coppelia, Spice Market, Jean-Georges) and Andy Yang of Rhong Tiam. Yang is one of the first Thai takeout joint chefs in NYC to receive a coveted Michelin star. It was also nice to run into fellow NY Magazine food photographer, Melissa Hom. Enjoy the photos below and check out Sachi!
Sachi is located at 713 2nd Ave at 38th street. Call (917)622-9229 for a reservation.
Mushroom spring roll
Yum Yellowtail with green papaya, jicama, carrot, nuoc nahm, asian herbs and toasted rice. A great way to start the meal.
Oshitashi with mustard green, radish, tahini and sesame. A nice twist on the traditional Japanese appetizer.
Daikon radish cake with mushrooms and Srirarcha sauce. This was really heavenly and one of my favorite dishes. It was like nothing else I've ever tasted and beautiful to just look at. I'm not usually a fan of mushrooms but the flavor here was so balanced I didn't even notice them.
Teriyaki octopus with sweet potatoes, orange and kaffir lime
Velvet Slipper and Shiso Mai Tai.
Chinese chicken and hearts of palm salad with white cabbage, carrots, sesame and crispy noodles. This was another standout app.
Sweet and Sour Berkshire Pork Cutlet. A tonkatsu with really tender high quality pork which melts in your mouth.
Oink Oink Fried Rice with black rice, pork belly, Chinese sausage, bacon, scallion and an egg. While the menu description sounds meaty it was well balanced and so delish especially with the egg.
Shaking Beef wok charred beef with tomato, red onion, shisito, celery, roasted salt & pepper. For meat lovers this is one of the best and most savory entrees. The beef was perfectly cooked and smoky. Another fave!
Perfectly succulent duck breast cooked with scallions. Amazing!
Assorted sushi. The fish was very fresh.
Ginger creme brûlée to end the night. So unique and a great ending to a wonderful dinner.
Me with chef Andy Yang.
Chef Pichet Ong working the line.
With New York Magazine's Melissa Hom.
Salmon, Lard et Basilic Timbale avec de la Salade de Riz à la Menthe
(Salmon, Bacon and Basil Timbales with Minted Rice Salad)
In the early 1960’s, francophiles Richard Olney and Julia Child championed the rustic, simple food they discovered in France. In sharp contrast to the molded salads, frozen juice concentrates and “convenience foods” of 1950’s America; the simple, honest dishes they sampled in Europe must have seemed revelatory. Both authors took cause to educate stateside readers on the possibilities of traditional, divine flavors in their own home kitchens.
In Honor of Mr. Olney and Ms. Child, I urge you to attempt these timbales; which hovers somewhere between a soufflé and a custard (once you get the hang of them, their variations are myriad). Rice salad, also quite common and popular in France makes an excellent accompaniment to this dish, which serves well warm for dinner, but proves equally fantastic cold for lunch the next day. Convenience, it would seem, is a luxury that the French enjoy as much as the Americans!
For The Timbales:
1 1/2 Lbs - Fresh Salmon Filets
4 Slices - Thick Cut Bacon
4 Tbsp - Unsalted Butter, Softened
1 Cup - 2% Plain Greek Yogurt
4 - Large Eggs
1/4 Cup - Heavy Cream
2 Tbsp - Well packed, finely chopped fresh Basil Leaves (with extra sprigs for garnish)
1/2 Tsp - Fine salt (with extra pinch for salmon prep.)
1/4 Tsp - Cracked Black Pepper (with extra pinch for salmon prep.)
For the Salad:
1 Cup - Medium or Long Grain Rice
1 - 15oz Can Black Beans
3 Tbsp - Well packed, finely chopped fresh Mint Leaves
1/2 Tsp - Fine salt (with extra pinch for rice prep.)
1/4 Tsp - Cracked Black Pepper
2 Tsp - Balsamic Vinegar
2 Tbsp - Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Special Equipment:
4 - 1 Cup Ramekins
1 - Large, Rectangular glass or metal casserole dish
Serves 4
Prepare The Timbales and Salad:
Fill a kettle with 4 Quarts of water, adding a pinch of salt. Set over high heat to boil.
Meanwhile, On a rimmed baking sheet, arrange 4 slices of bacon with space between the slices. place in the center of a cold oven, and set oven to 450. Set time for 20 minutes. Check bacon at 15 minutes, and remove when crisp and golden. Do not allow bacon to burn.
Transfer bacon to wire rack set over a paper towel, and set aside. Wash, rinse and dry baking sheet.
Add rice to boiling water and maintain a rolling boil over high heat. Boil for 12-15 minutes until tender. Do not allow the rice to overcook or burst. Drain rice into a fine mesh sieve or into a colander lined with cheese cloth. Spread drained rice onto baking sheet and transfer to refrigerator uncovered, to chill.
Preheat oven to 350 Degrees.
Next, check salmon and remove any bones. sprinkle salmon lightly with a pinch of salt and pepper. In medium sized skillet, bring 1 cup of water to a boil. Simmer the salmon for 3 minutes on each side until pastel pink. Remove salmon from water and allow to cool. Remove & discard skin and flake fish with a fork, removing any remaining bones to obtain about 2 cups of flaked salmon meat. Reserve salmon in a small bowl and set aside.
Using 1 Tablespoon of the butter, grease ramekins liberally and set aside.
In a medium saucepan, melt remaining 3 tablespoons butter over low heat. Add cream and yogurt and whisk over low heat, to warm. Whisk for about 1-2 minutes, or until you see faint wisps of steam. Remove saucepan from heat, and add eggs, one at a time, whisking well after each egg to fully incorporate. Reserve sauce off heat.
In a tea kettle or saucepan, bring 1 quart of water to a boil.
Meanwhile, Chop and mince basil, adding to reserved salmon. Crumble or coarsely chop bacon, adding to reserved salmon and mix well. Add salmon mixture, salt and pepper to Sauce. If the sauce is blocky or broken, reheat over low heat. If sauce is very thick, add 1 Tablespoon of water. Pour the sauce into the prepared ramekins, filling each ramekin about 3/4 full. Place ramekins in casserole dish, adding enough boiling water to the dish to surround the ramekins to about 2/3 height up the ramekins. Carefully place casserole with water and ramekins in the center of the 350 degree preheated oven for 20-30 minutes until a clean knife inserted in the center of one of the ramekins comes out clean.
Remove ramekins from water bath carefully, with a thick rag or heavy duty tongs, Placing ramekins on a wire rack to rest for 5-10 minutes.
Complete the salad and assemble the dish:
Drain black beans in a sieve, rinsing them well with cold water, and reserve. Chop and mince mint and reserve. Transfer chilled rice to a large bowl and toss with mint and beans.
In a medium glass or non-reactive bowl, combine the oil, vinegar, salt and pepper. Whisk well to emulsify. Add to bowl with rice mixture, tossing and combining well.
Invert each ramekin on it’s own plate carefully and garnish the timbales with reserved basil leaves. Arrange rice salad alongside the timbales and serve.
This recipe and the photos both by Noah Fecks look delicious.
Top Ten Pastry Chefs in America 2014
Monday night the best of the best in pastry and dessert making came out to celebrate the Top Ten Pastry chefs in America as chosen by Dessert Professional Magazine. The desserts the chefs presented on Monday were all jaw-dropping beautiful and perhaps in response to Adam Platt's recent rant on the lack of restaurant pastry chefs. Chef Ghaya Oliveira's "Cherry Tart" (pictured above) with a rosemary sour cherry compote, chocolate financier and Tainori bavaroise was particularly gorgeous. The combination of cherry and chocolate was the perfect way to evoke the feeling and taste of summer in one bite.
Other highlights of the night were Spago pastry chef Della Gossett's white chocolate "Crottin" with goat cheese, cherry preserve and garnished with local micro herbs. The local herbs which chef Gossett had just procured from the greenmarket really added a freshness and a nice California-style touch to the event. I'm sure this would have been Alice Waters' fave if she were there. I also enjoyed (as I always do!) Lafayette pâtissière Jennifer Yee's mastery of éclairs. Other standout desserts were Katzie Guy-Hamilton of Max Brenner's east meets west chocolate torte topped with toasted matcha and pistachio gelatio and Georges Berger of Chocolate Fashion's White Peach Mousse with pistachio brittle.
More photos below:
Fresh Japanese in DC
It's been hard for me to find a good quality and affordable Japanese restaurant in DC and Kintaro in Georgetown is a great find in this regard. I discovered it about six months ago and try to go there every time I visit my family in DC.
The sushi is fresh and prices are affordable. I absolutely love the burikama, or yellowtail collar.
Yellowtail Collar
Sushi a la carte
LGBT Culinary Discussion
Several weeks ago I attended a panel discussion on LGBT chefs and the challenges they face at Kitchn restaurant at The Out Hotel. There were some great ideas discussed and some visible luminaries such as Zac Young, Pichet Ong and Mitchell Davis participated in the panel sponsored by Distinc.tt, a new mobile social platform for the LGBT and straight allies community.
Some highlights of the discussion were posted on Youtube:
At the end Dale Schnell unveiled some of his "gay desserts" to inspire those entering the gayest dessert contest. Also present was Michael Guerrieri from City sandwich who created the first LGBT (Lettuce, Goat Cheese, Bacon and Tomato) sandwich.
Of the desserts I preferred the Banana Coconut Cream Bombe, which resembled a sea anemone made out of meringue. The tableside presentation of the Coming Out With Passion dessert was very impressive, and reminiscent of Lady Gaga's egg from the Grammy's but the rainbow sponge tasted dry.
Below are some photo highlights:
Pichet Ong's Double Almond & Jam Cookies
Chef Pichet Ong sent me this recipe today.
I think it would be perfect for Mother's Day. But, if you don't feel like making them you can try them at Coppelia (http://www.ybandco.com/media/coppelia.html) one of my favorite 24 hour restaurants in NYC.
DOUBLE ALMOND & JAM COOKIES
3 dozen cookies
Time: 55 minutes, Plus 4 hours for Resting
Cookie Base:
¼ teaspoon salt
½ cup butter, softened
1/3 cup sugar
2 yolks
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
½ teaspoon almond extract
¾ cup AP flour
1 cup cornstarch
½ cup almond flour
¼ teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon baking powder
- In bowl of mixer, paddle together salt, butter, sugar, yolks, vanilla, and almond extract until combined.
- In the meantime, whisk together all dry ingredients.
- Add flour mixture to butter mixture on low speed until combined. Remove dough from bowl onto a clean work surface and form dough into 2 pieces. Wrap each piece with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 4 hours.
-
Almond Ring:
1/2 cup sugar
2 tablespoons light brown sugar
3/4 cup confectioner’s sugar
2+3/4 cups almond flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
4 ounces egg whites (from about 4 medium eggs)
- In a mixing bowl, whisk together sugars, almond flour, salt.
- Gradually whisk in egg white until smooth paste.
- Transfer mixture into a piping bag with a medium star tip and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.
Assembly
1 cup of fruit jam of choice (strawberry, peach, or blueberry are good)
½ cup sliced almonds
- Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
- On a lightly floured work surface, roll cold pastry pieces out to about 1/8” thick pieces. Use 2” round cookie cutters to cut cookies. Arrange pieces on sheet pans, leaving an inch in between pieces.
- Working quickly, pipe almond ring mixture around each circle going all to the way to the edge, and leaving about ¾” inch of circle middle for the jam filling. Fill each cookie with jam and sprinkle top of each with almond slices, pressing down slightly so they stick to the almond ring. Keep remaining almond ring mixture for next use, along with the scraps from the cookie cut down.
- Bake cookies in oven for 14 minutes total, rotating half way through if necessary, until crust is golden brown,.
- Let cookies cool to room temperature completely before serving.
It's been below freezing for several days here in NYC so I decided to make some chicken stew to warm up.
A Night at David and Zac's Farm
Farm to table restaurants are popping up like Starbucks all over New York City these days and last Saturday I had the pleasure of dining at David Burke's take on farm to table dining at his SoHo restaurant, David Burke Kitchen in the basement of The James Hotel.
charcuterie
To start, my party and I had the charcuterie plate. It is a delightful mix of fresh sopressata and other meats with a mix of vegetables and fried herbs. The mustard seeds and cornichons really cut the saltiness of the cured meat very well. The salmon sticks and market salad were also delicious, but the charcuterie was definitely the standout.
salmon pretzel sticks
The main reason for my visit, however, was to try Zac Young's Desserts. I'm sure many of you are aware of my sweet tooth and Young's desserts did not disappoint. We started out with his bacon caramel popcorn, which he told us is his favorite snack food. It definitely does beat Cracker Jack any day. I'd love to see this on Trader Joes' aisles.
bacon caramel popcorn
Young's tree of donuts were perfectly crisp and doughy. The caramel and eggnog dipping sauces also brought me out of my post-holiday blues. I loved the booziness of the eggnog sauce and would have downed it if I wasn't so modest.
donuts
My other favorite desserts were the deconstructed molten carrot cake and the bacon pecan brioche sticky buns. I recommend eating the carrot cake with everything on the plate all together in one bite to achieve the intended effect. The sticky buns have a nice salty sweet combination and would pair well with coffee.
carrot cake
The crème brûlée was the perfect ending to the meal. It is simply a work of art especially the way a piece of white chocolate was so delicately balanced on top of the caramel ice cream. The combination of coconut and salted caramel was also pretty unique.
I really can't wait to go back and try more of David Burke and Zac Young's creations. I've been told that they are working on a quail pie, which sounds really intriguing.
crème brûlée
Florence Rae's Eggnog
For me, eggnog is a New Year's Eve tradition. This year I tried a different recipe than my usualbut my grandmother's simple and elegant recipe is a classic, which I always come back to.
Here's the recipe*:
"Beat the yolks of 3 eggs until light and fluffy. Add 1/4 cup plus a finch of sugar. Continue beating until thick and pale. Stir in 1 cup milk and about 500 mL of rum. Chill at least 3 hours.
Pour into a punch bowl and fold in 1 cup whipped cream. Chill for 1 hour.
Serve with grated nutmeg.
Dont forget our next day trick: Beat the 3 leftover egg whites and fold in to the leftover eggnog "
Let me know in the comments if you try it. It's great for any winter celebration or to take away the post-holiday blues.
*Note: If you are nervous about using raw eggs I pasteurized eggs are available in many supermarkets. Very fresh local eggs from the farmer's market are also a good choice or you can pasteurize them yourself.
I had an amazingly beautiful cappuccino at One Girl Cookies today in Dumbo. It's becoming one of my favorite dessert spots in Brooklyn now. It's a great place to just hang out over a cup of coffee and a muffin.
Ramen at Ganso
I'm sure many of you have been to ramen joints like Momofuku, Totto Ramen and even Jin Ramen in Harlem. Well there is another one to check off your list in Downtown Brooklyn. Ryujii (rio) Irie who cooked with Tadashi Ono at Matsuri and food writer Harris Salat have brought their A game to a cozy new spot called Ganso.
Chef Ryuji
Ganso, which means origin in Japanese, has some mean appetizers that will certainly knock the socks off of any ramen or izakaya aficionado. The house gyoza certainly fits the restaurant; it's the quintessential Japanese dumpling with the perfect combination of pork, ginger and scallions. My favorite appetizer, however, was the chef's signature fried chicken. I have never tasted a sauce like that which perfectly combines sweet, salty and spicy on such tender chicken. I'm still dreaming about that chicken--it's that good. I also liked the kari kari buns and any opportunity to eat Japanese mayonnaise.
The short rib ramen has a rich flavor without being too heavy. I enjoyed the al dente noodles and beefiness of the broth.
Since Ganso has only been open for several weeks there is not really a dessert menu save for gelato from Ciao Bella, but Salat assured me it is definitely in the works in addition to drinks. But, that's another excuse to return and try more.
More photos below:
Fire Up The Wok in Times Square
The smell of sesame oil filled the corner of Dufffy Square in Times Square at the end of September. It was the smell of the many Chinese chefs like chef Lieqi Wu slicing up a live lobster above. For two days chefs from all over the world competed in the different categories of regional Chinese cuisine.
At the end of the first night the organizers at NTD Television held a special Iron Chef style Kung Pao Chicken competition among several chefs (Julieta Ballesteros, Clark Frasier, Maneet Chauhan, Malcolm Mitchell and Antoine Camin.) According to judges Chef David Burke and Food Network VP Susie Fogelson Chef Camin's version was the best. I had a chance to taste it and the Szechuan peppers certainly packed a punch, but I slightly preferred the sweetness in Maneet Chauhan's version, which incorporated Indian Spices. However it is worth noting that by the time I tasted the dishes they had cooled down considerably.
Chef Maneet Chauhan
Cheftestants
Chef David Burke, Susie Fogelson and NTD Television host Kean Wong
Chef Camin's winning Kung Pao Chicken
Enjoy more photos below from the competition.
I had a really nice meal today at Cafe 2 at the Museum of Modern Art. I always love their bruschette sandwich and soup pre-fixe. It seems like not enough food at first, but it really is just the right amount to fill you up.
The setting is on the second floor of the museum and it offers a great window onto 53rd street.
Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough Brownies
It seems like mashup recipes (i.e. Christina Tosi) and genre cookbooks are so in style these days. So I jumped at the opportunity to review Lindsay Landis's The Cookie Dough Lover's Cookbook: Cookies, Cakes, Candies, and More, which has just come out this week. The recipes all focus around a basic cookie dough that is used in almost every recipe. I love the homemade feeling of the book and it feels very bloggy in contrast to a more seasoned cookbook author. The photos of every recipe are inspiring and also frustrating if one of your creations does not look as perfect as Lindsay's. My only suggestion is that on her next book to also include the measurements in grams because it makes it much easier to double and accurately measure.
I was craving brownies this week so I decided to try the Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough Brownies recipe in the cookbook. It is basically a brownie recipe with a layer of cookie dough on top and then a chocolate ganache on top. I loved the combination of chocolate chip cookie dough and I added some leftover cacao nibs to give it an extra deep chocolaty flavor. I highly recommend Valrhona Guanaja chocolate for baking in recipes like these. It works really well and has just the right amount of sweetness and bitterness.
I failed to make the top layer of chocolate straight and smooth like the book's photo. I think this was a result of making chunky homemade chocolate chips and the cacao nibs. My patience was also wearing thin by the time I had finished the recipe as well. Lindsay tweeted at me that the secret to achieving this effect is an offset spatula and a steady hand. So next time I will try that.
Overall the brownies were really tasty and go perfect with a glass of milk or maybe your morning coffee if you're feeling like you need a sweet picke me up to start your day. I highly recommend using cacao nibs because it really adds a nice depth of flavor and also a nuttiness to the brownies. Walnuts could also be good.
Enjoy these photos of the baking process.
Dry ingredients with the cacao nibs mixed in.
Mixing the cookie dough filling.
Spreading the cookie dough filling on top of the brownies.
Chocolate ganache for the top layer.
I'm totally obsessed with this video and song now! It's so hilarious.
Eat It Don't Tweet It by American Hipster + Key of Awesome (by barelypolitical)
Macarons from Sugar and Plumm
This week I tried macarons from Sugar and Plumm, a new patisserie in New Jersey, which will be opening soon in New York City (Grenwich Village, Downtown Brooklyn and Upper West Side). I tried the pistachio, lemon, vanilla and chocolate flavors. The macarons were perfectly pilow soft and the creamy fillings in the middle added depth. Of those, I really enjoyed the lemon and vanilla flavors the most. They would be perfect as an afternoon snack or with your morning coffee.
If you can't wait for the NYC shops to open, go check out their location in the Bergen Town Center Mall in Paramus.
Info:
Sugar and Plumm
620 Bergen Town Center
Paramus, NJ
(201) 880-8156
Open Mon to Fri 10 - 9.30
Sat and Sun 10 - 10
http://www.sugarandplumm.com