The first 39 hours of travel.
$LAYYYTER
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祝日 / Permanent Vacation
Xuebing Du
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Cosimo Galluzzi

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@whereintheworldisfreckles
The first 39 hours of travel.
Back to the Travel Grind
Day 1, September 15 – Sofia, Bulgaria (8 hours in the city)
Dear reader, I’ve outlined 5 things that you must know before skipping to the juicy travel part:
I was asked to be a Texas Exes Tour Host for the “Grand Danube Cruise” with the Flying Longhorns and AHI (Group Travel Group established in 1962).
There were 28 Flying Longhorns (not including myself and guest). I was tasked with hanging out with them and making sure that they had a great time on their trip.
The official trip was from September 18 – October 3.
Travelers arrived in Sofia on September 19 and stayed at the Hotel Balkan. We then boarded the river cruise ship on September 21. After disembarkation, the group and tour directors stayed in a beautiful Art Deco style hotel named the Imperial Hotel in Prague for 3 days and 3 nights.
The trip started in Sofia, Bulgaria. We took a cruise ship from Vidin, Bulgaria and traversed the Danube River through 6 other countries: Romania, Serbia, Hungary, Slovakia, Austria, and Germany. After Germany, we were shuttled to Prague. In total, the Flying Longhorns trip took us through 8 countries!
For those who want to know how the Flying Longhorns trips work, I get 1 day to catch up on sleep. I returned to the office to get readjusted to the real world starting October 5.
I did not research much on Bulgaria before arrival. During the first two weeks of September, the Texas Exes Chapters & Networks team was very busy with our annual chapter and network leadership conference! We had about 100 volunteer leaders for our different chapters and networks converge on the Alumni Center for a day of learning, conversation, and fun!
My guest on the trip was Tyler Draker, professional boyfriend and photographer.
Tyler and I made the decision to arrive in Sofia 4 days before the travelers to go explore Istanbul for 3 days.
Months before the trip, I discovered that there is an overnight express train from Sofia to Istanbul. The website said it would take about 10 hours to get to Istanbul. There wasn’t much information from what I could find… maybe the key words I used weren’t the most helpful. Regardless, I found YouTube Vlogs of people taking the train and giving a very quick tour of the small sleeper cabin on the overnight express. Travelers made sure to emphasize that there would be no food served on the train. I also read blogs and used the Girls Who Travel Facebook Group to determine that the overnight train stops in Halkali Station (a suburb) and then there’s a shuttle bus that takes passengers to the central station, free of charge.
We touched down in Sofia, Bulgaria about 1:30 pm on Saturday. The first hour and a half was spent getting our bags, changing into things that didn’t smell like other people’s (ok… admittedly ours too…) pungent body odor, orienting ourselves to the metro and how to get to the central train station, and discerning how many Bulgarian Lev equal the American Dollar. For those interested, on September 15, it was 1.68 Lev to 1 Dollar. Five days later, we learned from our local tour guide, Boris (aka Bobby), that Bulgaria has until 2024 to switch to the Euro. As of now, Bobby says the country will most likely transition around 2021. When Bulgaria entered the European Union in 2004, they agreed that the country would transition to the Euro within 20 years.
Now back to the story: our first mission was to get to the Central Train Station to buy our tickets to Istanbul. There was no online purchase portal which is pretty normal. We took the metro at the airport to the train station. Here’s Sofia’s metro map. (Please note that Bulgarians use the Syrillic alphabet, but forturnately English is right below it! And with the August and September I had, I didn’t have too much time to take a Bulgarian language course).
We arrived at the train station about 30 minutes after leaving the airport. The first thing I noticed was that the station is big. There are 3 above ground and 2 underground levels. According to Wikipedia, an average 10,910 people pass through the station daily, as well as an average 166 trains (84 arriving and 82 departing). The station has 30 ticket offices and 5 electronic timetable displays. This Wikipedia article details more about the station.
When we arrived at the station, the first thing that captured my attention was the large statue that spanned the length of the 5 stories. It looked like something that was built during the Cold War. I tried to find as much information on the statue after the trip on the internet, and didn’t find much. So I’ll discuss what I felt - similar to a tall, gothic cathedral, it made you feel small. Was it built during the Cold War? Not sure.
Tyler and I dropped our bags at storage on the basement floor of the train station. There was a very kind woman working behind the counter. She held our bags for 4 hours for 2 lev each. Behind the counter, we saw her daughter and then her daughter’s daughter who wore a t-shirt and fairy wings. We then walked 2 kilometers (about 1.2 miles) where we crossed the Lion’s Bridge and proceeded to a 2 story market to get some dinner.
We ate a smorgasbord in the plaza square across the street from the market. We dined on a flank of fish, cucumber and tomato salad, and some heavily sautéed and soggy root veggies. At the edge of the plaza, we saw the Regional History Museum (check this 360 View of it!) and an active mosque named Banya Bashi that was built in the 16th Century during the Ottoman Empire. People walked around the square while enjoying the mid-September cool air. We walked around the area aimlessly, knowing we had to be back at the train station at 8:15 pm to buy the 2 person sleeper car to Istanbul.
We putzed around the train station between 8:15 and 9:13 pm. Around 9:05 pm, Tyler said that he was surprised that the express train was not at the platform. So he walked back about 200 yards to the departure monitors to look over the schedule again. Turns out... we had gone to the wrong platform. Stub 4 is not the same as Platform 4. About 9:09, I saw him walking back very quickly. I knew to grab my 70 liter backpack and get ready to walk quickly. With heavy bags in tow, we ran down a flight of stairs and then up a flight to the right platform and hopped on the train around 9:13.
Once we got our bearings on the train, we were pleasantly surprised. There were nice Turkish cabin attendants (all men) who brought us clean sheets, juice boxes, two packs of crackers, and some soap. The sleeper room had two single beds (one that was behind the couch and one that you pulled from the ceiling), sink, fridge, and a big window. The most defining feature was the track toilet. I can’t say that I have had this experience before, but let’s just say that I got a good, little quad workout. ;-)
The old train started firing up and moving down the tracks promptly at 9:16 pm. I knew that we would go through a passport check at the Bulgarian/Turkish border so I didn’t sleep too soundly between then and 2 am because I wanted to make sure I was coherent enough for the check. Around 2 am, Bulgarian border agents came onto the train to conduct their passport check. They took our passports, and then we waited about 30 minutes on the train. They then came back to our cabins to return the passports. Phase 2 of the border crossing was a passport check/face check in Kapikule, Turkey. This time, all passengers got off of the train to walk into a customs office about 2:45 am.
Per the suggestion of the Bulgarian Ticket Representative, we bought a one way ticket to Istanbul because buying a one way from Istanbul is slightly cheaper than buying a round trip from Sofia. The Turkish border agent reviewed our tickets, asked Tyler and me to take off our glasses, and then asked Tyler if he was going to stay in Istanbul (for an indeterminate amount of time). Tyler said “Yes.” The agent repeated himself. Tyler did too. That’s when I started to piece together that the agent was asking if Tyler was going to stay past the 90 day tourist period. I then said “No.” And then explained to Tyler that he was asking if we were going to be there for more than a month and a half. Talk about lost in translation. The entire border crossing took about 1.5 hours
We arrived at Halkali Train Station around 8 am and took a shuttle with two Turkish young men and all of the Turkish train attendants (the other shuttle was full) and arrived in the center of Istanbul an hour later. It was fun to listen to the Turkish chatter rather than listen to the silence of the tourists on the other, larger bus.
Don’t hold me to it, but I think I would take the overnight express again. A one way train ride to Istanbul cost approximately $40. We got a place to sleep, some tasty crackers, and a really nice view. 8.5/10 would do it again.
We departed from Austin Bergstrom International Airport at 10:50 am on Friday morning. After traveling a total of 39 hours, we arrived at Istanbul’s Central Train Station at 9:15 on Sunday morning.
Rocky Mountain National Park with Mom and Dad 7.14.17
naked on the treadmill
I tend to try and draw in more readers with my risqué titles. Last night I got to hang out with my pals, Jared and the Mill, in Greeley, CO before their kick ass show at Moxi Theater. We ate at a restaurant before the show, and the effervescent and enigmatic Mason wore the band’s shirt to show her support. The waitress asked Mason what her shirt said. She proudly responded with “Jared and the Mill” and then said that they had a show at the Moxi (just down the street) that night. The waitress responded with “Oh! I thought it said Naked on the Treadmill!”
Y’all haven’t heard of Naked on the Treadmill Jared and the Mill? Well, you need to.
Photo credit: @masonendresphotography
Mike & Me. Mike is one of the talented musicians in the band.
@myhandmadehymnal
Giotto's Bell Tower and the views from it - Santa Maria del Fiore. Firenze (Florence) 5.18.17
A Traveler's Prayer
Thank you for Mohamed, the former national Sudanese Fútbol playmaker extraordinare, who made my RideAustin shuttle easy and pleasant. Thank you for the meaningful small talk and hug from a grandma in Austin, who was heading back to Houston after seeing her last granddaughter (9 of 9) graduate. I helped her find her gate and she gave me a squeeze. Before walking off, she said "I'm 88 and lost half of my brain!" Thank you for the small croissant and questionable chicken teriyaki, it was still of nourishment to my body. Help me to remember to do my yoga stretches in the terminal and don't let me feel troubled by strange looks. Praises abound for the Air Dolomiti airline and their dark roast coffee. All while the snow capped alps and Italian countryside zoomed below my feet. Father, Maker of all Flappy and Metal Airborne Aircraft, thanks for putting me down safely on the Italian Hills! Bueno Sera, Firenza! The Europeans must have had divine inspiration from You for having coffee every meal. Three cups of coffee and 2 hours of restful sleep, and I'm ready to go! 🤘 Thanks to Leonardo for providing me with a swift and humorous ride to my hotel. Lastly, Dear Heavenly Father let me sleep well tonight. Amen!
Meet the original Queen Lola and her husband Otis. You wouldn't necessarily think that the Queen would live on Austin's East side. But Queen Lola's riches aren't material, as cheesy as that sounds. Her riches are compassion, generosity, and kindness. I had dinner at Nubian Queen Lola's Cajun Soul Food Café for the first time last Thursday. It was a small restaurant close to 12th and Rosewood. I felt comforted by Lola and Otis' hospitality who were the only people Front of House. They served me drool worthy chicken and sausage gumbo with cornbread. I don't know when or how she first realized her life's passion. But I intend on finding out next time I go to Queen Lola's. Although I do know what her passion in life is: feeding the hungry. #atx #vsco #makeportraits #postthepeople (at Nubian Queen Lola's Cajun Soul Food Cafe)
I met José Felón and his faithful companion/killer attack dog Chiquita about 8:45 am on Sunday morning, the day after my birthday. The @airbnb that we stayed at was above a garage so I had to walk down the stairs to get to my car to get some stuff out. When I was descending the stairs, I saw my neighbor sitting in his truck with the window rolled down and his chihuahua staring at me. He wished me a good morning and then we started to chat. José is 78 years young. That was one of the first things he told me. We then talked for almost 45 more minutes about our lives and the people in them. He told me that he had been married to his wife for more than 50 years. He said he was born in Mexico. He said that starting at 18, he served in the Marines for 26 years. He said that he was offered $1 million dollars for his property in order for it to be developed because it's in a prime location. He said he's not selling it. He said that he was going to take his grandson fishing that day. I told him about my new job and impending move back to Austin. I told him about my boyfriend and my friend who were still sleeping. I told him it was my birthday the day before. He told me that he misses his parents and that I should hold mine close. He cried. It was a humbling experience. I'm glad I talked to him for an extended period of time. It reminds me that everyone has a story. Everyone has a perspective. Most of the time, if you listen carefully and intentionally, you'll be able to learn and empathize with your fellow man. He said people call him crazy. He says he's just full of spirit. || #atx #eastside #neverstopexploring #vsco #chiquita #chihuahua #makeportraits #postthepeople (at Stay Gold)
We left the hustle and bustle of the small city, albeit a city, for the forest. With his hatchet and my prunes in his pack, we spent the later half of the afternoon hiking The Saw Mill Trail by Boykin Springs. We explored an old saw mill. We sat by the springs which had just been replenished by the previous days' rain. We listened to the water in all of its natural splendor. #adventureawaits #neverstopexploring #gooutside #nationalforest #pinetrees (at Angelina National Forest)
zen and the art of driving
Sometimes you have to get out of town to find yourself. I definitely started to learn my temperament when I was studying abroad. I found out that I am more patient with myself than I thought, can walk pretty long periods of time with a full bladder, and be at ease with new people who don’t look or think like me. That’s what I learned in Denmark and Germany.
I’m in Austin for the weekend. I’m volunteering at the Texas Tribune Festival. “The Texas Tribune Festival brings together some of the biggest names in politics to explore the state’s and nation’s most pressing issues.” Once I finish volunteering, I’m able to participate in the festival. I want to get my literal foot in the door, so I can then find a seat in the audience at a panel in order to learn about issues that affect Texans and Americans. In addition to wanting to be an informed person, I need to find a real big girl job. And/or get a better idea of what Public Policy and Public Administration Graduate Schools are out there for me. Because for those of you who don’t know and are interested, I want to go to graduate school to pursue my Masters Public Administration. I want to help people.
Stewardship has been an integral part of my character. The more I get older, the more I realize that I want to dedicate my career to helping others. I haven’t quite decided whether I want my focus to be in the government or nonprofit sector. The beauty of most higher education institutions is that I can take an interdisciplinary approach and study administration in both the nonprofit and public world. I can try or be apart of both after I graduate.
Leon Bridges is playing on the speakers at Seventh Flag Coffee down here on South First Street in Austin, Texas. They certainly have a nice atmosphere, and since it’s 9 am on a Friday morning, it’s a little calmer and slower than on a weekend. I haven’t sampled the house coffee that I bought. But I’ll do that when I finish my writing. After 4 songs, I’ve realized that they’re just playing Leon Bridge’s album. Pure gold. I love being in coffee shops. There’s a comforting connection found across many towns and cities today, and that’s a warm cup of coffee.
Why did I talk about having to figure out who I am in the beginning of the post? Sometimes you can find yourself across the ocean, or maybe you find yourself just 4 hours west of your hometown. I’ve been back in my hometown for 2.5 months. Lufkin is wonderful and where I’ve started to figure out who I am. Austin is wonderful and where I’ve really grown into who I am. We’ll see what the future has to offer in the next few months.
Now why did I title this entry zen and the art of driving? Did you know that Austin has some pretty gnarly traffic? I’d ramble off some statistics of how it takes a really long time to get from point a to point b, but I don’t know any. All I can say from experience is that if you don’t time it just right, you’re going at least 25 miles per hour below the speed limit because you’re in bumper to bumper traffic. During my last semester at UT, I finally brought a car. When I wanted to go to yoga, or find a new coffee shops, sometimes I would get a little anxious because I would start to anticipate the traffic and the crazy drivers.
I didn’t worry about driving today. I was a safe and defensive driver, and I surrounded myself with positive things and thoughts while en route to my destination. I got to spend the night with a beautiful AND loving AND caring AND kind friend of mine. I had oatmeal with cranberries. I got to drive through quirky Austin neighborhoods. I listened to the coffeehouse channel with mellow musicians singing surprisingly substantive songs. I cracked the windows down to feel the kind of chilly air. Yeah, I missed a turn. Yeah, I encountered gutsy drivers. Yeah, I got to the coffee shop a little later than expected. Throughout all of that, I was totally zen.
Seventh Flag Coffee is delicious. The baristas are now playing Leon Bridges live recorded songs.
she’s on a hot tin roof
This weekend I got out of my house and into an unfinished house. On Saturday, I was able to to help pick up trash in a lot, paint a porch, and sweep up dusty pieces of sheet rock. WAIT, THERE’S MORE. The following day, a few of us youth sponsors and youth from First Christian Church in Lufkin went to our regional summer camp up in Athens, Texas to paint the tin roof of a shed.
Back to Saturday. I want to give a shout out to Shelby. She’s the Resources Coordinator for Habitat for Humanity in Angelina County. She’s a boss. I’m so very proud of her not only because she was a leader and executed her duties well, but also that she’s my friend. She did what her title says and coordinated resources in terms of volunteers, food, and building material. I enjoyed my time out at the house because I was helping someone else. This someone else was actually a family with three children. During that morning, the mother of the family came to work on the house as well. I got to meet her and ask her about her soon-to-be-brand-spankin’-new home. Obviously, she’s really excited. She mentioned that she’s appreciated seeing the entire house go up piece by piece. She’s been patient throughout the entire house building process. Her family will have their own house. Some of us don’t give a newly constructed house a second thought. We see them go up all the time in urban areas, so why does this one carry so much meaning? People that don’t know the future homeowners came to help.
I will be returning to the house to help in whatever way I can this upcoming Saturday. Come join.
I’ve devised a list of takeaways from this weekend:
1) Make sure to bring sunscreen no matter what. Fortunately, on Saturday, I didn’t get sunburned because of the kindness of a mother who just so happened to have sunscreen in her car. Be careful, though, when you try to reapply with painted hands. The sunscreen will mix with the paint. The red paint made for a nice, pale blush for the drive back to Lufkin on Sunday evening.
2) Mistakes happen. I had to touch up a few places where the brown trim got on the white walls. Other volunteers came in with their super handy brushes to cover the mess up, and then we moved on. We all moved on together.
3) Laugh. Manual labor brings out a lot of different emotions in people. They can range from determination (obviously, because you’re given a task that must be completed), to enjoyment (some people like working with their hands). Try to enjoy the work that you’re doing. Sometimes you’ll laugh at yourself or other workers. I think it builds a figurative, stronger sense of community and a literal, pretty darn good house.
4) Wear tighter shorts or pants when painting and NOT the older track Nike shorts. I was scooting down the roof on my behind with my sights set on the ladder to get down. Let’s just say having a red tush isn’t the most ideal thing ever.
So lets peak behind the curtain and hail the others like us. The open-faced sandwiches who take risks and live big and smile with all of their teeth. These are the people I want to be around. This is the honest way I want to live and love and write.
Amy Poehler (from Yes Please)
where in the world is she
she: Where in the world is freckles? I haven't heard from her in a while.
he: I hear she's somewhere in East Texas.
she: Oh. I've never been over there. What's it like?
he: I've been over there once. It doesn't look like the Hill Country.
she: I hear it's all cowboys with big ten gallon hats who ride horses everywhere.
he: No, it's more like lumberjacks in plaid with big trucks that aren't really that necessary.
she: Talk about lumberjacked.
he: ... It was really beautiful when I went. It's full of pine trees and good ol' Texas charm and hospitality.
she: I can picture a lumberjack wearing his plaid and scaling up a pine tree with his bare hands. In between his teeth, he's got a chain saw. He's gearing up to cut some timber from his private tree farm to keep warm during the winter months. Now that's a real lumberjack.
he: ... it never gets that cold in East Texas ...
Mason and I went to New Mexico, if you hadn't figured that out by now. We traveled to beautiful places that I won't be forgetting any time soon. We went in a hot air balloon to boot. Yes, the reason I have my arm draped over me while driving is so I don't burn.
from a european perspective in Oslo
The second class I took through Danish Institute for Study Abroad was Terrorism and Counter-Terrorism from a European Perspective. One of the more important takeaways that I already discussed in the last entry was that “One’s man terrorist is another man’s freedom fighter.” In regards to some of these cases that we learned about, I never thought that the supposed terrorist was considered a freedom fighter because of my subjective opinions about what they were fighting for. I know that we all have different perspectives. So in every case that we studied, someone somewhere thought that the “terrorist” was fighting for a justifiable freedom. I could attempt to go into philosophical theory right now, but that’s not my style.
In some of the class cases, I could see that the “terrorist” was motivated because of political oppression. But the best way to affect change and maintain stability is through nonviolence. I’ve read a few scholarly articles that take a qualitative approach when analyzing violent and nonviolent movements over the course of history. In those cases, the nonviolent movements were sustained for longer.
First day (Monday) - We left our apartment in the inner city of Copenhagen a little before 7 am. One of my flatmates, who was also a classmate, met another classmate who lived down the street. We walked to the train station in order to arrive at the airport by 7:30. Danish transit was very punctual. Danish airport security is some of the best in the world. Therefore, people should go to Denmark. PSA to go to Denmark, over.
Our class, professor, and TA arrived in Oslo before lunch. Afterwards, we went to the Norwegian Police University College. Cato Hemingby currently teaches at the College and has a PhD on Terrorist Target Selection. One of the case studies that he has researched is the 7/22 attack in Norway, and Anders Behring Breivik’s decision-making process that resulted in the death of 77 and injury of 260 Norwegians. His expertise is in extremism, terrorism, threat assessment, societal security, and terrorist groups in Northern Ireland and the Middle East.
In his lecture, he briefed us on Breivik’s life before the attack and internal and external motivating factors that led him in his personal target selection. Even though he didn’t show this specific article, I think it’s a good summation of what Hemingby disclosed. I recommend reading it. Breivik spent long periods of time, cut off from the world, playing World of Warcraft. He was not successful with his personal and professional exploits. As a result, he found a scapegoat for all his anger: immigrants coming to Norway. From reading the news today, and over the past year, there has been a large influx of Middle Eastern and North African immigrants trying to travel to Europe. In some European countries, there have been serious cases of Islamophobia. In others, there have been policies that have discriminated against immigrants from these aforementioned regions. When I was in Denmark, they had their 4 year parliamentary election. My RA shared with me that the new prime minister is known for stricter policies on immigrants. Yes, Denmark is beautiful. Denmark is a happy country. But there isn’t a lot of color in Denmark if we’re being honest.
Back to 2011. So Breivik thought that the Labour Party, which was the majority party in Norwegian government from 2005 to 2013 (that’s what Google told me - please speak up if I’m mistaken). Wikipedia tells me that “the party steadily increased in support until it became the largest party in Norway in 1927, a position it has held ever since.” The Labour Party is committed to social democratic ideals, which include acceptance of immigrants from developing countries. Breivik didn’t (and still doesn’t) agree with these principles. So he decided to attack the Labour Party because of what they stand for.
I’ve gotten ahead of myself. For those of you who don’t know, on July 22, 2011, a right wing Norwegian extremist, Anders Behring Breivik set a bomb in the Federal Government District in Oslo. When the bomb detonated, it killed 8 people. Once Breivik set the bomb in place, he drove to Utøya, which is an island in the Tyrifjorden lake in Hole municipality, in the county of Buskerud, Norway. This island is private and primarily used as a summer camp for the Workers Youth League (AUF), which is the youth party that is associated with the Labour Party. Breivik acted as a police officer who was sent to protect the +500 children, after news broke about the bomb explosion in Oslo. He was taken to the island via ferry and started his rampage. He killed 69 people which included some adults and children between the ages of 14 and 18.
Hemingby broke down Terrorist Target Selection Processes into 3 categories: ideology/moral and strategy; internal and external factors, and alternative targets. Hemingby contended that Breivik’s thought process for his targets came from internal thoughts and external political and social factors. Hemingby has met with Breivik before and analyzed his selection process in the 3 categories. He said he wanted something symbolic that was related directly to the Labour Party. So he thought that the government district and the youth league would carry his intended message. Hemingby said that “his no escape decision [to stay at the Youth Camp] added to the damage potential.” In regards to strategy, Hemingby assessed that Breivik went through a series of operational constraints such as: manpower (operating solo), personal skillset, weapons in possession, funding, and time (when making situational decisions when on Utøya).
Breivik called the police officers himself when he landed on the island. He said that he would cooperate peacefully and not kill anymore once they landed. The police effort to get to the island took a lot longer than expected. Hemingby estimates that the police arrived 1.5 hours after Breivik started shooting. To put things in perspective, it only took about 10 minutes to ferry over from the mainland. Even though it shouldn’t have taken that long for law enforcement to reach the island, nothing like that had ever happened in Norwegian history, so law enforcement on the mainland didn’t know how to deal with it.
After the lecture, we took a tour of the government district in Oslo. Four years later, the buildings that took the brunt of the bomb have still not changed. Hemingby was there along with a government employee who was in the building closest to the bomb and a security officer who witnessed the explosion from down the street underground. There were windows that were boarded up. I hardly saw any foot traffic. I stood under the building that the bomb was closest to. There were no walls or windows, just sturdy columns in the middle of the structure.
Second day (Tuesday) - Our class arrived in Sørbråten, which is the area that surrounds Utøya. We drove an hour north of Oslo. We were led on a tour around the island by Erlend Blakstad Haffner, who is the lead architect in the rebuilding project of Utøya and cofounder of Fantastic Norway. My professor included an excerpt from the firm’s website:
“In the wake of the terrorist attacks on Utøya 22 July 2011, Fantastic Norway has been working closely with the Labor Youth Party with designing a strategy for re‐establishing a political camp on the island of Utøya. Our ambition has been to reflect and reinforce values such as commitment, solidarity, diversity and democracy, both through form and function. In short we have done this by establishing a small village with small streets, bellfry, and a town square on the very top of the island. The village consists of many small units that together add up to a bigger community: A symbol of unity and diversity.”
Here are some thoughts I had written down on a little notepad that morning. (I had to expand on some of the thoughts now or they wouldn’t have made sense. Some of the ideas don’t have a smooth transition into the next subject. But it’s where it came up chronologically in the tour):
The entire time I kept thinking, he took this route. They’re looking at ways to create memorials and rebuilding the island for its original function as a summer camp. They wanted the building and construction to be low key. This is similar to the mentality of the Labour Party - low key, common, not flashy, and locally/nationally resources. The nature is beautiful. The fjord is quiet and so is the island. There are tall, slender trees around the grounds and low lying vegetation, so nowhere to hide. He had the vantage point when he came onto the small island. We were told that Utøya is a private island. So the big question was for a while right after the attack was: should there be a national monument on the island? The answer to that is now no. There will be at least 2 private memorials on the island and the possibility of a national memorial across the water. There is an piece of land that branches from the shore that provides a unobtrusive view of the island. The architect behind the national memorial suggests that they take out a sizable piece of the land and take it to the government district in Oslo. There are still candles and flowers in the classrooms on the spots where the children were killed. The architect discussed the concept of “staged memory” in regards to memorializing events, and whether or not to touch the classrooms in which children died. The survivors wanted to leave the building but parents didn’t want to keep it. So they’re building a new learning center right beside it. They’re keeping the same floor in the old building, just glazing over it. Haffner said that they’d be cutting the main building in half and put 69 pillars around the rim of the building. They will block off the entrance where Breivik went through to keep the focus on the children, and not his actions. In 2015, there is a generational shift because there are new youth who weren’t at the attack joining in the summer camp. The need to teach the young about the past. They must teach what happened at the camp. But how to do it? The kids locked themselves in the bathrooms and survived. Even though the doors were very thin and Breivik could have broken through, he did not because he did not want to walk through rooms with only one escape. The large classroom that we walked into first had chairs lined on the outer edge and Labour Party posters on the walls still. Haffner said that the classroom is the most important. Haffner told us that the new buildings are built where no one was shot. There are makeshift memorials like roses, small stone angels, personal photos, cigarettes, candles, and sticks that spelled victims’ names. He told us an anecdote of how they brought in architects that designed the 9/11 Memorial and Freedom Tower. The American Architects suggested putting up barriers in between the small personal memorials to deter guests from stepping too close. Haffner and other Norwegian architects said that wouldn’t be necessary because their culture would know to keep a distance and maintain social decorum. The neighbors on the mainland want to forget about the attack. They want to move on and not remember what happened, which is understandable. But they weren’t victims, survivors, or family of the victims. They’re primarily voicing their concern over the foot traffic that will come if there is to be a national memorial. Parents can come to the island whenever they want on an individual basis. AUF creates a monthly trip to Utøya. I see a fresh rose on one marker. The rose is two weeks old at maximum. The walls, floors, and cabinets are all chipped with law enforcement getting DNA. Tables and podiums are in storage. People from Norwegian Parliament are coming later today. The concrete foundation pillars will be kept. The Father of the Norwegian Labour Party built the concrete pillars that serve as a foundation for the hall where some of the children died. There will be a memory garden built as well. Haffner told us that some of the parents spearheaded the garden and will see its construction through. One victim’s father made a viewing platform. Closer to the end of the tour, we walked around the “Lover’s Trail” that spanned the perimeter of the island. Discrete, low-lying fences create a barrier between the trail because it ran alongside the edge of the cliff at points. The small barrier was built by veterans of the Labour Party in 2012. We were told that kids hid on and clung to the sides of the cliffs on July 22. The architecture firm made the decision not to widen the trails. How could I liken this situation to the Charleston shooting? That happened just six days before I came to the island. Hatred of mankind is a nasty thing. I can’t believe it leads us to kill one another. The fjord is so peaceful and serene. The smell of dew is still in the air. The theme in the memorials and new buildings are tied heavily to nature. The new mess hall had light colored wood, big windows, and vaulted ceilings.
Thoughts leaving Utøya: It doesn’t seem real. It was calm and peaceful. I can’t understand the total disaster of the situation. The professor and TA even discussed the attack on the way back to Oslo. This was their first time on the island, too. This experience isn’t just a new learning experience for me.
Later that day, we met with Ragnhild Kaski, the Generalsekretær of the AUF, the Secretary General of the Workers Youth League, the youth branch of the Labour Party. Kaski was on the island when Breivik attacked. She said that she broke her leg and was saved by a Norwegian with a boat who came close to the island when the attack began. Her best friend was near death, but she survived and has since then joined the AUF board.
In the beginning of our conversation, she explained that the Labour Party had governed Norway, but they’re not right now. She said that Norwegian youth have always been involved in politics, especially on a grassroots level. Her job as the Secretary General is to get the annual national camp up and running on Utøya. She emphasized that the political youth culture in Norway is strong. She joined the AUF when she was 16.
The typical daily life of an AUF camper on Utøya is like a church camp or any other social summer camp. You have songs, sports, games, and other fun, and then a sermon, lesson, or speech. The campers then have time to discuss common interests: this case being social democracy and government.
The number of members in the AUF increased in 2011 and hasn’t decreased since. Kaski has had regular meetings with law enforcement to prepare for the camp in summer 2015. She said there was no real increase of security. The security guards that were on the island in 2011 were off duty cops that weren’t carrying guns, because that wasn’t the norm in Norway. She said that in 2015, the guards will have guns, which makes her uneasy. She expressed that when she sees an officer with a gun, she feels that something is off, some situation isn’t going to the way it’s supposed to. On the other hand and for the most part, when Americans see guns on law enforcement, we feel safe.
Her opinion of creating a memorial with the differing opinions from survivors and parents of the victims was to “find the perfect balance.” She supported the creation of a memorial. Kaski said that there was no disagreement within the party about creating a memorial, but she was butting heads with others out of the party. Over the course of four years, there have been lots of donations to fund a memorial. Kaski said that once the attack happened, national morale had grown. Norwegian citizens volunteered to construct the memorial. The national response came from the people. Kaski said Norwegians all over the country were marching peacefully while carrying many red roses in remembrance of the victims. She said the response was “as it should be.”
Kaski believes that the attack should not be forgotten. She was adamant about calling it a political and terrorist attack, rather than some kind of hate crime, because that’s what it was. Breivik created fear and terror against a political party with opposing views.
She briefed us on the Breivik’s current state. He is serving 21 years in prison. All of you reading this will think that’s crazy. If you’re from Texas, you’re really surprised he wasn’t sentenced to death. I learned that this is the longest prison sentence any Norwegian inmate has ever received. At the end of his 21 years, his case will be reviewed again. Kaski, and almost every Norwegian, said that he will never leave prison because of the severity of the attack. After 4 years since the attack, he still wants to continue his fascist party. He continues to write his personal manifesto in jail. Recently, he applied to study Political Science online at Oslo University and has been accepted. He continues to send op-ed pieces to the newspapers. Kaski said that she was happy that Breivik still has his human rights, including a right to an education.
The Norwegian Criminal Justice System is different than its American counterpart. When we heard that Breivik was seeking higher education, one of my classmates audibly said “That’s nuts.” Kaski laughed and said “We think the same way about some American things.” Norway seeks to rehabilitate criminals and take a “restorative justice” approach. Obviously this approach is different than the American criminal justice system.
A big question that kept coming up in the discussion with Kaski was “would Norway have responded differently if Breivik wasn’t Norwegian?” That’s just some food for thought since I don’t know the answer.
Another thing that I learned was that my professor stayed true to the “European Perspective” aspect of the class. I really did appreciate looking at different European terrorist events with the help of various European resources. We heard from Norwegian scholars and survivors. 7/22 is said to be the worst terrorist attack on Norwegian soil.
After taking a lot of time to write this entry, I want to remind everyone that we can’t expect the unexpected. Yes, we can implement counter-terrorism measures and policies to combat terrorism, but people can only do so much. Remember to hold your loved ones closer and tighter.
At the end of the Mass, as most made their way out in silence, I noticed a lady walking up the aisle with a bundle on her head. This she rested on the bottom altar step and Father Owen came to it, prayed over it and blessed it. The lady then placed the bundle back on her head and serenely walked out towards the sun rising over the fields. I realized that within that cloth were the precious seeds that she was going to plant that day. I pondered for a while during the 'after Mass silence' on the act of faith I had just witnessed. Those seeds represented her own and her family's future. Within them lay all her hopes and all her fears. Everything. Even life and death. She had been able to lay down all of that and in one simple heartfelt gesture had given it all to God and asked her for His blessing. How much more difficult would it be for me to make the equivalent offering? With our Western layers of security and complexity this would not be an easy thing to do. How might it feel to be so utterly dependent on when the next rain will fall and on the God who created it? Or at least to be so acutely aware of it?
Magnus MacFarlane-Barrow. Excerpt from Mary’s Meals. Magnus is talking about one of his experiences in Malawi.
my second class abroad
“One man’s terrorist is another man’s freedom fighter.” I can’t believe I forgot about that phrase. I have my spiral that I took class and reading notes right beside me. I was flipping through the spiral and when I got to the fifth page, the phrase came to me. It wasn’t written anywhere on the fifth page, I just remembered it. That phrase started to pop up in both teacher and student’s vocabulary on day one, and three weeks later, we concluded with that phrase on the last day of class. I decided to take Terrorism and Counter-Terrorism from a European Perspective. Click on the link! It takes you to the overview of my class and you can also download the syllabus for your own academic exploration. For those of you who may not know what I specialized in my Bachelor’s Degree, I double majored in International Relations (with a focus in Arabic and Political Security) and Religious Studies. Obviously this class was right up my alley. I am pleased that I took this class. Like any beneficial class, I learned, discussed, and experienced things that now make me see the world a little differently. Like any good, but kind of predictable Liberal Arts class, we discussed the different definitions of terrorism from both an academic and real life perspective. We began to realize that creating, and sticking to, a definition is important to further academic research. From a practical standpoint, how can governments come up with counter-terrorism policies if there isn’t a definition over what they’re supposed to counter? During the first few days, “One man’s terrorist is another man’s freedom fighter” was said when the students reached an intellectual impasse and couldn’t continue the conversation. On the third day of class, we learned about various European Terrorist Organizations and others that have had an influence in Europe. We studied groups such as Narodnaya Volya, National Liberation Front, Red Army Faction, Red Brigades, ETA (Basque Nationalist Group), IRA (Irish Republican Army), and the Black Widows. Throughout the three weeks of class, we talked the most about the IRA, Al Qaeda, and ISIS which I’ll get into further in the next long form post. Throughout the rest of the class, we learned about the historiography of terrorism, asymmetrical warfare, political and religious motivated attacks, and the psyche of an attacker. In the last week, we learned about terrorist propaganda and its relationship to the media as well as how the media covers attacks and counter-terrorism efforts. We focused on intelligence gathering and issues abroad with counter-terrorism which entailed special operations, targeted killings, drones, and torture. When it came to counter-terrorism issues on a domestic level, the class discussed security of citizens versus their personal freedoms such as the right to privacy. On the last day of class we discussed more domestic issues that dealt with remembering victims of the attack, creating memorials, as well as moving forward from a variety of perspectives like survivors, families of victims, community, and government. In one of the classes, Søren Hove came to talk about Danish foreign and domestic intelligence gathering. He was pretty direct and honest, seeing that he was currently working for the Danish Intel branch. One point that he kept repeating was something to the effect of “Terrorism is designed to make us overreact.” We watched Citizen Four, which was the documentary of Edward Snowden when he first leaked the phone records and other classified information from the NSA.
During the class, Dennis Meyhoff Brink came to speak to the class. He currently teaches at University of Copenhagen and specializes in Arts and Cultural Studies. Brink attended a panel in the middle of February 2015. Lars Vilks was a guest speaker on the panel, and it was over freedom of speech and political cartoons in Copenhagen. Vilks is a political cartoonist who drew the Prophet Muhammad in 2007. At this panel, a solo terrorist came with a gun and shot and killed one person there. Later that night, he went to the Jewish community on the street named Krystalgade (Chri-stehl-gel), and killed one of the security guards there. It was less than a ten minute walk away from the apartment that I stayed in. We went to this community center and met with leaders of the community and learned their security measures for the center and Jewish population in Denmark. Another field tour that we took was a guided tour at the Exhibition “The Distant War” which was centered around Denmark’s engagement in Afghanistan. Check out the official Danish website that talks about foreign policy in Afghanistan. The exhibit was created from the perspective of a Danish soldier that was sent to Afghanistan. We first walked through a child’s bedroom that had toys, posters, a military bag, and a last will and testament on the computer screen. The tour guide shared that the Danish Veterans that came back from the war wanted to show that they came from similar backgrounds and childhoods, just like regular citizens. They wanted to show that they were human. We walked through training rooms, the Afghani desert with foreign military bases, and Afghani towns. The Danish government didn’t play a large role in Afghani affairs. But they have a story, and I appreciate the way in which they presented it in the museum exhibit. One reason why many undergraduate students decide to the study with Danish Institute for Study Abroad is their Study Tours that they offer in most of their academic sessions. I took one with this class. We spent a little less than two days in Oslo and a little more than three days in London. I’ll write a post specifically about the study tour next. I don’t want to get too lengthy in one post.