Merry Christmas Everyone! Greetings from Vietnam
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Merry Christmas Everyone! Greetings from Vietnam
Hoi An
I travelled from Dalat to Hoi An via a 3 hour stop over in Nha Trang. The first leg of the journey (lasting 4 hours) has sweeping views as the road cascades up and over the mountains, and even thoughtfully ventures towards a few waterfalls. Alas it was hard to enjoy the view as our bus driver proceeded rather erratically. Morbidly I kept my eyes on the road and imagined the various ways I might soon be careering off the edge. Unfortunately this diverted my attention from the expansive views. I had decided not to bother staying in Nha Trang due to its reputation (among backpackers that is) of it being a haven for the Russian package holidaymakers. Instead I hung out with an Aussie couple, and drunk beer on the beach for just a 3 hour stopover before venturing on towards Hoi An via a 12 hour night bus. Overall this was very much a positive experience. However I can naturally grumble about a couple of incidents. I was seated on the back row, next to a 60 odd year old German traveller, who sounded like he hadn't been home in the last 20 years. Anyway he was an interesting enough bloke, but sadly seemed to enjoy pushing him legs as far onto my seat as he could manage, which distressed me somewhat. Being too polite/reserved/awkward to outwardly complain, inwardly I cursed him and everything he stood for. Hence I was too worked up to get a great nights sleep. Secondly, the bus played a western film, something to do with magicians, which generally I would be all for. However sadly the driver decided to show the last 10 minutes of the film, before then starting it from the beginning.. In a film with a large twist at the end. Ah well. I stayed at the 'sleepy gecko' hostel within Hoi an. It's a nice place, with a swimming pool, pool table and a nice friendly sociable atmosphere. It's the sort of place where anyone can speak to anyone else. It's great. The owner Steve is also a big chess fan. I 'let him' beat me in the hope he's reduce my bill. It didn't work. My time in Hoi An was mostly spent eating. My favourite restaurant was a place where you rolled your own fresh spring rolls (where they advised us to include a fried spring roll inside! - delicious). It's also famous as the spot to get suited and booted.. But as much as I fancied the thought of a tailored suit (I felt it would have put my 'Next' suits to shame) I didn't fancy carrying it around with me for the next 4 months. Due to its reputation (and the sheer number of tailors) it's almost impossible to walk down the street without being sized up. Hoi-An was also a place for reunions. Happily I stumbled into Amanda, who I had previously met on Koh Rong, Cambodia. I initially thought I was hallucinating when I heard Amanda's distinctive drawl (It was 7am and I'd just got off the night bus). As you will see (and I'm sure you can't wait) this forestalled us both heading up north through Vietnam together. We had come to an unspoken agreement that we were far less likely to end up in trouble as a pair, so ventured on towards the rest of Vietnam together. Wonderfully, I also met up with Korina and Ben, who I had had the privilege to meet on my first forays into travelling back in Bangkok. They were both doing well and we spent a happy few hours trading stories. That and braving the waves at Hoi An's beach. It's rather like being battered (the waves are vicious). But luckily it's a damn sight warmer than the North Sea. Finally I met a top fella, Sam, from Stoke. He's probably the first northerner I've met since beginning travelling, so it was nice to slip back into the honoured Yorkshire tongue. He on the other hand, being from Stoke, sounds like Robbie Williams. The rest of the guests at the 'gecko' couldn't get enough. Having ate several pounds of spring rolls, and worryingly considering buying a suit, it was time to move on.
Hoi-An
Are u stuck in dalat?
Back on it captain!!
Dalat
Arriving at 7pm following a 13 hour bus from Saigon, my immediate impression of Dalat was of the temperature. It's gets pretty chilly in the evening (well maybe 15'c anyway) due to its mountainous setting. I was however feeling content following a successful bus ride: it had been far more comfortable than its contemporaries in Cambodia and I had arrived with my full allocation of luggage. Success!! Having lucked out on my guesthouse in Saigon by trusting a local Moto driver, I decided use the same method. It didn't quite pay off... Although it was indeed a cheap dorm as requested ($4 a night!), in the 4 nights I stayed in Delat it had no other patrons in the dorm rooms and hence wasn't quite as social as I had first imagined. It's pretty badly run with the staff being friendly but rarely ever there. But hey, it meant I could make myself at home and as a result my stuff naturally ended up all over. A big thing in Delat is to pay a local motorbike rider about $25 to take you on an 'easy rider' tour around the local area. Having turned down about 5 or so various chaps, I finally succumbed to an cheeky, short, elderly gentleman. He escorted me round to the 'elephant waterfall', a coffee plantation, treking spot, a pagoda, various local Vietnamese small businesses and 'the crazy house'. My guide was a bit of a legend, however I was bemused by his enthusiasm for encouraging me to take pictures of these poor vietnamese locals at work. I was genuinely interested, but I was quite content not to have a photograph of the occasion. But he wouldn't take a shrug and a half smile as an answer and would stand there expectantly until I cracked out the iPhone. He would also beep his horn enthusiastically whenever we drove past a girl under half his age, before turning back to me and giving me a knowing wink. The following day I went canyoning, which is the main backpacker activity in Dalat. It's basically travelling down a canyon by abseiling, water slides, trekking and jumping into pools. It was pretty epic and I think I'll struggle to do it justice in any descriptions, so I'll just post lots of pictures. The guides also gave us an incredible lunch so it was a winner all round. On my final day in Dalat I went trekking. This was done with same company as who I'd done canyoning with the previous day. I'd struck a deal with them whereby I could complete both activities for $50. What I didn't quite realise was that no one else had signed up for trekking, and that I had been provided with 2 guides, so I received a VIP if not a somewhat random experience. We traversed the largest peak in the immediate area at 2137m. (Pretty high when you consider Ben Nevis Is 1344m). The day was generally fairly easy, but the incline to the top of that peak was the hardest walking I've ever done. The final 1km was all pretty steep, with the last 500m just being steep steps cut into the mountainside. Helpfully (or discouragingly in my opinion), there were signs every 100m or so detailing the distance left to traverse. At one point however it felt as it the signs listed the altitude still to climb (as opposed to the horizontal distance) as it seemed I was practically going backwards when one considering my thrusting steps. As tired as I was I must admit the view was sensational and even I remembered to take some pictures. We also ate the same lunch as that provided at the canyoning, so I was a very happy bunny. The only further bits to mention about Delat is that it's an absolute maze, whilst still being pretty small. I must have walked every inch of it I got lost that often. Either way I felt I had been fairly active over the week or so, and that I needed to get back to a certain level of backpacker indulgence. Mainly in eating,drinking and sitting. It was time to head to Hoi An.
Easy rider tour, featuring locals at work
A spot of trekking
'Don't go chasing waterfalls...'
Water slide number 1. I'm particularly impressed with how steady I look on my feet
Water slide number 2 (2nd time down)
I was born with a certain amount of grace
Mekong Delta
Southwest of Saigon, the Mekong Delta is the fertile farming heartland of Vietnam. It's very lush and produces about 40% of all the food eaten in Vietnam. From Saigon I took a $35, 2 day, 1 night tour - which I felt was a bit of a bargain. It was probably my least favourite couple of days on my travels thus far. Mainly as it's the first time I've felt as a bit of an outcast as a solo traveler. My tour group contained an older Chinese couple, 4 German students, a pair of guys from the Netherlands (who I believe are the most boring people I've ever met), a totally engrossed with each other Spanish couple wearing conical hats, an older German couple and yours truly. No one was particularly friendly so for the most part my customary regular off the cuff witticisms about my immediate environment were totally wasted. The tour itself started with a 4 hour drive into the Mekong Delta before embarking onto a boat that took us to some island or other. The guide then shuttled us to the following places over the next 2 days. My main issue with this time (as I will hopefully demonstrate), is that we were constantly sold to from dusk till dawn. Rice noodle factory - rice noodles available for purchase. 'Traditional' honey tea demonstration - various honey related products available Coconut sweet shop - sold cocounut sweets and soap Traditional music - tips please! Rice storage place - I believe one could buy some rice if one was so inclined Mekong river floating market - a range of products available as I'm sure you can imagine To be fair I should have expected it based upon the price. But hey you live and learn. We also floated down the river, where as THE solo traveller I went with the guide. A highlight of the trip was starting at the homestay in the Mekong Delta on the middle night. Although 'Professional' homestay might have been more apt. The establishment had about 10 riverside rooms were guests (tourists) would reside. I was the only member of my tour group who had elected to stay at a homestay, everyone else chose a hotel, but there were 10 other people from another tour (where would you believe it everyone else was travelling as a couple). They were however much friendlier. We firstly started off by 'helping' the family assemble the spring rolls (mine were wonky) and by frying them. Having judged our relative strengths, the family then cooked the rest of the food, a highlight being a delicious fish. Burping quietly and contentedly, the 10 of us then enjoyed drinking rice wine till the wee hours. Part of the problem with the tour, is that it was the most mainstream tourism I'd tried thus far, as opposed to a backpacker haven. Either way I was delighted to get back to Saigon and to book my onwards journey to Dalat.
Dinner and a show - Mekong Delta
Travelling round has already meant I've bumped into some wonderful people. At lunch on 1st day of the Mekong Delta trip, this wasn't the case. Being the only solo traveller on the trip, I had no natural dining partner. So I no doubt delighted two Dutch guys by asking if they wouldn't mind my joining them. Although in fairness it was kind of a everyone muck in together sort of affair. Both the guys had short brown hair. One was well built with a flat face and no chin. The other was really skinny with a big nose and a strange wispy moustache. Anyway, the following is some of the extracts of our conversation. Only the well built guy spoke out of the two. L: 'So what attracted you to visiting Vietnam, and SE Asia?' D: 'Its somewhere I've never been before' (10 seconds of silence) L: 'Yeah for me it just seemed a good chance to get exposed to a completely different culture. Compared to some somewhere like New Zealand or Australia for example' D: 'Yes' (20 seconds of silence) L 'So are you guys fans of football' D 'no not really' L 'yeah guess the Netherlands only really have the two main teams, PSV and Ajax' D 'yes they are only ones who play the English, German, Spanish and Italian teams' L 'yeah I imagine it gets a bit repetitive' (Pause for 45 seconds of silence) L: 'So you like any other sports?' D: 'I play water polo' L: 'hmm that's interesting, yeah it's pretty much unknown in England' (30 seconds of silence) L: 'Is very popular in Holland?' D: 'yes a little.' L: 'it looks pretty rough.' D: 'it is if you are not used to it.' L: 'would you say you can pretty much jump all over someone' D: 'yes' And so it went on... Well until about 10 minutes later when I rather lost the will to live and just sat there in silence. The two Dutch guys also didn't talk to one another. Surprisingly we didn't exchange contact details.
Mekong Delta
Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City)
All of the locals call Ho Chi Min City, Saigon still. And as I resided in the city for at least 4 nights, I will as well. I really enjoyed my time there but I must admit it's a strange place. It's a capitalist adonis in an unmistakably communist country. There is also the starkest difference between the rich and poor above anything else I have seen in the rest of SE Asia. I stayed in district 1 with the other throngs of backpackers. The area mainly specialises in bars, clubs, restaurants, massage parlours, hair dressers and street food. There are perhaps 200 establishments in the space of a couple of streets so it very much feels like the place is built on top of itself. I stayed at the Nhi Hi guesthouse and got an absolute bargain. $7 all in got me a single room, hot water, cable TV and en-suite (the works!!). The staff (well family I guess is more appropriate - it was more their house) didn't speak much English, but heck we still got on like a house on fire. Alice and Guilaume were also hitting the mean streets of Saigon at the same time, so I was fortunate enough to spend a lot of my time in their company. Our first stop was for a blind massage where we were unfortunately rather unimpressed. The place was cheap, but it basically felt like I had paid someone $3 to put me in pain for an hour. The beating was appropriately finished by hitting me on the head by (at least what felt like) a novelty plastic hammer. I personally recovered by having a second massage performed by some lovely Vietnamese lady. In reality it did nothing of any benefit for my muscles but sure did feel nice. Happily I then stumbled into Jonas, whom I had previously met in Battambang, outside the imperial palace so impetuously we visited it together. It's cheap (just $0.75!) and luxurious, but not particularly interesting. It shows the rooms where the south Vietnamese cabinet sat and where the presidents wife used to sleep amongst other things. The building is a cross between Art Deco and the 60's love of concrete, so undoubtedly that was a bit of a hit. That night we partied at a roof top bar (drinking alcohol at altitude is just more fun) then stumbled onto one strangest clubs I've ever been too. Jonas had recommended the club which played electro music mixed by a DJ at the front and put on a wicked light show. It's patrons were exclusively rich Vietnamese, rather than scruffy backpackers which was quite refreshing. They were all dressed really nicely and played it pretty cool by not really dancing but partaking in more of an artistic sway. Naturally dancing wise we just went for it and got stuck in. Some would say we embarrassed ourselves.. But I'd prefer to think we demonstrated how to have more fun. The club was different in that there was no dance floor. Instead everyone was grouped around small tables, the vast majority of which included a fruit platter that had been purchased by a patron. We made friends with the table next to us, (largely by dancing upto them until they couldn't miss the hint and felt compelled to join in). I knew we'd been accepted into the fold when they offered round both a slice of watermelon and the generously filled bowl of wasabi peas. Drinks weren't cheap in the place, $25 for 3 cobra (extortionate for Vietnam!): but they did provide a waiter who would stand next to you and salt the top of your beer after every sip. Well at least until you asked him to stop as he's running your drink. I was fully embracing the establishment when a warmed towel was draped on the back of my neck as I was enjoying a wee. Having never experienced anything like it before, I tipped the guy a $1 then ran outta there. The following day I visited the war museum, which would probably be more accurately named the 'look how bad the Americans were' museum. Saying that it is a thoroughly professional experience and tends to make its points through statistics and pictures so it was undoubtedly truthful. Rather it just focuses all the shit the Americans did as opposed to looking at anything North Vietnam got up to. Myself, Alice and Guillaume finished our time in Saigon with something of a karaoke crescendo. At the lush, 'Milan karaoke' we crooned for 2 hours in a very extravagant settings. The western songs were a bit hit and miss. Some of the instrumental tracks were slower than in reality. But it meant we had a ready made excuse whenever we inadvertently mullared a song. Hoarse and hungover the following day I set off for the Mekong Delta.
Photo's from Saigon. I'd helped the kids in the park by speaking English with them. My Northern twang made a challenge that they brilliantly overcame
Phnom Penh
So onwards on my Asian adventure, next stop being Phnom Penn. In keeping with the rest of Cambodia, its clear that the nation is still developing. There is a lot of poverty, but it also feels very much that the area is up and coming and I imagine the city will have been transformed in the next 10 years or so. There is plenty to occupy even the most needy, demanding traveler although I do have one major gripe with the place. It all stems from the fact that no one walks anywhere in Cambodia (or frankly anywhere in SE Asia for that matter). Given that there is no pavement set out for your humble pedestrian on most side streets, walking can be a hazardous pursuit. Most locals seem incredulous that your standard westerner seems happy to navigate the city without the benefit of two tons of machinery. I am being perhaps a bit unfair. On the major streets there is a sidewalk. They do need to be traversed however by avoiding the street sellers, litter, building materials, cafes, scooters and cars that regularly claim residence there. I hence may have become exacerbated on the odd occasion. Anyhow, I bestowed my patronage upon the jauntily named Top Banana for my time in Phnom Phen. It’s a very social hostel centered around a busy bar and a beer pong table. I knew I was in for a fun time when karaoke was playing upon my arrival. Happily I also bumped into Alice and Guillaume, fellow members of the nearly men pub team that came so close in Battambang. As if to almost celebrate our reunion, Alice proceeded to thrice cream me at beer pong, utilising both her experience and knowledge of the extensive New Zealand rules. There are too many to list here, but just take my word for it, New Zealand do beer pong seriously. I spent most of my time in Phnom Penh visiting sites related to the disastrous reign of Khmer Rouge. They were in power for 4 years from 1975, led by the communist Paul Pot. During this period they attempted to turn the nation into a rice producing peasant state, killing around 3m Cambodians in the process. There are 2 main museums in Phnom Penh that cover this period: ‘S21’ the converted school turned prison and the ‘Killing Fields’. Both are pretty harrowing but are thoughtful and really well designed. Rather needing a drink on the evening, I also accompanied both Alice and Guilaume to the swish ‘sky bar’. It gives a great view of the city in somewhat opulent surroundings; a marked contrast compared to the street level pubs/cafes in the back packer district where plastic chairs are generally the order of the day. I played true to form and had a manly Pino Colada and Mojito for $3.50 a drink. The only downside to the place was the unfortunate liking for bad 90’s romantic music, but we concluded the view was worth it. Having become tired of the daily potential of traffic accidents, I decided to leave Phnom Penh on the third day and embarked to visit my third country. Watch out Vietnam!