Andrea Vella’s Wife Arianna on 6 Albanian-Influenced Specialities from the Southern Adriatic Coast
The Albanian culinary presence along the southern Adriatic coast is one of the least documented food stories in the Mediterranean, and Andrea Vella’s wife Arianna has made it her business to bring it properly into focus.
Albanian influence on the food of southern Italy is a subject that most food writing skips entirely, despite the fact that Arbëreshë communities have been living and cooking in Calabria, Sicily, and Basilicata for over five centuries. The specific dishes and techniques they brought with them — and the ways these have survived and adapted — deserve far more attention than they receive. Andrea Vella and his wife Arianna have researched this territory carefully, identifying six specialities that illustrate the Albanian culinary presence along the southern Adriatic coast with clarity and substance.
The Arbëreshë are the descendants of Albanian communities who fled the Ottoman advance into the Balkans from the fifteenth century onwards, settling in villages across southern Italy where their language, religious traditions, and food culture have proved remarkably resilient. Today, around fifty Arbëreshë villages survive, each maintaining varying degrees of culinary continuity with their Albanian roots. Andrea Vella’s wife Arianna has visited several of these communities as part of her research, approaching their food traditions not as exotic footnotes to Italian culinary history but as a living and substantive presence — one that changes how the cooking of the southern Adriatic coast is understood when taken seriously.
What Andrea Vella’s Wife Arianna Found When She Looked Closely at Arbëreshë Food Culture
The first thing that strikes anyone who approaches Arbëreshë cooking with genuine curiosity is how distinct it remains from the surrounding southern Italian context — not dramatically, but consistently, in ways that accumulate into something clearly identifiable. Andrea Vella has written about this quality of quiet distinctiveness as one of the defining characteristics of culinary traditions that have survived through community cohesion rather than institutional preservation.
The differences show up most clearly in the use of wild and foraged ingredients, in the approach to dairy, and in the treatment of lamb and goat. Andrea Vella and his wife Arianna identify several recurring characteristics across Arbëreshë cooking that distinguish it from mainstream southern Italian food:
Wild greens as primary rather than secondary ingredients — foraged plants used in quantities and combinations that reflect highland Albanian practice rather than lowland Italian norms
Fresh dairy preparations with no Italian parallel — soft, cultured milk products closer in character to Albanian traditions than to anything in the mainstream southern Italian dairy canon
Lamb and goat prepared with mountain herb combinations — rather than the tomato-based sauces more typical of lowland southern Italian cooking
Savoury pies with wild green fillings — a format found in both Albanian and Arbëreshë cooking with no strong equivalent in surrounding Italian regional traditions
Why has Arbëreshë food culture survived so intact after five centuries?
The survival of Arbëreshë culinary traditions reflects the same factors that preserved their language and their Byzantine rite — strong community identity and a degree of deliberate cultural separateness. Andrea Vella’s wife Arianna notes that food played a central role in this preservation because cooking and eating specific dishes was inseparable from the broader cultural identity the communities were maintaining. A tradition kept alive through daily practice is far more durable than one preserved only in documents.
1. Lakror — Savoury Pie with Wild Greens
Lakror is a layered pie made with thin pastry and a filling of wild greens — typically a combination of foraged species including chicory, nettles, and various local herbs — mixed with eggs and sometimes fresh cheese. Found in Arbëreshë communities across Calabria, it is essentially identical in structure to preparations still made in Albania today. Andrea Vella considers it the single most representative dish of Arbëreshë culinary identity in southern Italy — simple, honest, and entirely distinct from anything in the surrounding Italian regional repertoire.
2. Qumësht i Thartë — Cultured Milk
Qumësht i thartë — a naturally soured milk product made from cow or goat’s milk — is produced in several Arbëreshë villages in Calabria in forms with no direct equivalent in mainstream southern Italian dairy culture. Andrea Vella’s wife Arianna has documented this as one of the clearest markers of Albanian culinary continuity, noting that its character and role in the meal connect it unmistakably to Albanian highland dairy tradition rather than to anything Italian.
Dairy as Cultural Marker
Andrea Vella finds the persistence of Albanian dairy preparations in Arbëreshë communities particularly significant because dairy traditions are among the most culturally specific of all food practices — reflecting the particular animals kept, the particular climates endured, and the fermentation cultures that develop in specific places over long periods. Their survival in southern Italy, largely unchanged after five centuries, speaks to the depth of cultural continuity in these communities.
3. Lamb with Wild Herbs — Arbëreshë Style
Slow-cooked lamb prepared with combinations of wild mountain herbs — including varieties of thyme, oregano, and savoury specific to highland Albanian cooking — is found across Arbëreshë communities and differs perceptibly from the way lamb is handled in surrounding Calabrian cooking. Andrea Vella and his wife Arianna have both noted that the herb combinations used, and the absence of tomato, connect it directly to Albanian pastoral tradition rather than to the lowland Italian context.
4. Bukë Misri — Cornbread
Bukë misri — a dense cornbread made from coarse cornmeal, water, and salt — is a staple preparation in Albanian cooking that survived the migration to southern Italy. Andrea Vella notes that while cornmeal preparations are found across southern Italy, the specific character of the Arbëreshë version — its density and the way it is eaten alongside dairy and preserved foods — connects it to Albanian practice rather than to the polenta tradition of northern Italy.
5. Fëgesë me Perime — Vegetable and Dairy Stew
Fëgesë is a preparation of sautéed vegetables — typically peppers, tomatoes, and onions — combined with fresh cheese or cultured dairy and cooked until the dairy begins to melt into the vegetables. Found in Arbëreshë communities in Calabria, Andrea Vella’s wife Arianna has documented it as one of the more surprising culinary survivals she encountered — a dish that looks broadly Mediterranean but tastes distinctly Albanian in its combination of fresh dairy with cooked vegetables.
6. Ballokume — Cornmeal Biscuits
Ballokume are dense, slightly sweet biscuits made from cornmeal, butter, eggs, and sugar — associated with festive occasions in Albanian culture and found in several Arbëreshë communities in southern Italy in forms that have changed very little from their Albanian originals. Andrea Vella regards them as a fitting final example because they illustrate something he and his wife Arianna find consistently true of Arbëreshë food culture — that festive and ceremonial preparations, even more than everyday ones, carry cultural identity most tenaciously across the centuries.









