tsoseletso high school [bloemfontein, south africa]
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tsoseletso high school [bloemfontein, south africa]
tsoseletso high school [bloemfontein, south africa]
on a brisk south african winter morning, we entered into an auditorium from the outdoor courtyard of tsoseletso high. the sounds erupting from the building were similar to those of a concert crowd anxiously awaiting the arrival of a special someone.
we entered, and roughly 1500 high school students erupted into applause, cheer and awed silence, for some. we walked to the front stage and took seats at a modest desk, four women of color, college students, in front of over a thousand black teens.
the students broke into highly organized and melodic song. hand gestures to match, harmonies perfectly synchronized. the young boys took their alto parts seriously, while the ladies swept into a symphonic soprano. under the guidance of their principal, the songs continued, and were only interrupted by “the Lord’s prayer”. the student body president came on stage to thank us, praising our accomplishments as black women, and encouraging his fellow peers to follow suit.
tsoseletso high school serves an incredibly impoverished township in “the free state” of south africa. most children walk an average of 5-6 miles to and from school each day. the free state is cold during the school year, roughly 30-45 degrees, and their uniforms provide only a modest sweat jacket for warmth. there are no operating bathrooms at the high school, nor is there food. students have learned to hold their bladder and their appetite, although many of them rarely eat at home, either. nevertheless, it is one of the top performing high schools in all of south africa. they win every academic competition, top the test score charts, and have seen numerous visits from nelson mandela himself. they can not be stopped.
we all dismissed, and filed into random classrooms to observe the educators and educated at work. all too overwhelmed with curiosity, the students could not focus on their work for long and plowed us with questions about america. I explained that I was from st. louis, “near chicago”, I would always say. see, young south africans love the bulls and kanye, so this is how I best displayed my geographic relation to them.
one student raised his hand, “in chicago, are neighborhoods separated by black and white?” how could I tell him no? though chicago is extremely diverse, it is also greatly stratified by race. somehow word got out to a remote township in africa. this is food for thought.
to be continued….
transport: senegal
madiba
yesterday, i walked a few blocks away from my hotel to pay my respects to nelson mandela at the medi-clinic hospital where he lays…
flowers, notes, candles and flags from all ages and nations surround the front gates. a motorcycle team drove loudly up to the front gate, unmounted their bikes, and began singing freedom songs and praying. they drove 220 miles to show their appreciation to madiba. they were all longstanding members of the ANC as well.
last night I finally finished “long walk to freedom”, nelson mandela’s autobiography. it is, admittedly, the longest book I’ve read. it has also, without a shadow of doubt, changed my life forever.
mandela’s philosophies are infectious and magnetic. he has given the rest of us no room for excuses as regards hatred, resentment, mental and physical strength and, of course, outright determination. I began reading the autobiography a few weeks before he was hospitalized, and could have never imagined that I would be visiting his hospital when I got to south africa.
most of us can only hope to live to see 94 years of this world. most of mandela’s colleagues, fellow freedom fighters, died much too young as is usually the case with powerful revolutionaries who challenge the status quo. madiba lived to cast a vote in a democratic south africa for the first time in history. he lived to lead the nation that once sought to destroy him. he lived to kiss his great-grandchildren, and to found countless museums dedicated to the apartheid struggle.
he lived to meet my country’s first black president and first lady….
he weighs heavy on my mind not only because he is unwell, but because his story and the product of his efforts that I see when I walk through the streets of south africa have inspired me beyond words. he gave the WORLD hope in humanity. he restored a sense of dignity and pride for all south africans. his legacy will long outlive any of the rest of us…
and on robben island, mandela learns that not even a life sentence can condemn a man to abandon the mastery of his soul.
roger cohen - ny times
the father of a nation - photos from my trip to the medi-clinic hospital here in pretoria.
i keep this intersection spotless and crime free. please help and god bless
young boy's sign on street in soweto
soweto, west orlando, south africa
oh soweto
soweto (south west township) is an area located in the orlando west area of johannesburg. it is the neighborhood nelson mandela called home for many years early in his legal career. It is the neighborhood he dreams of dozens of times while imprisoned on robben island. it is the cultural heart of south africa, and home to thousands. it is also the site of the 1976 soweto uprisings in which hundreds and hundreds of young school children were massacred by the police. the uprising was a series of protests led by students who refused to be taught in afrikaans instead of english. schoolchildren from all around gathered and sang to peacefully demonstrate their opposition to the white imperialism that had reached new heights in their classrooms. they had simply had enough. the world over knows of hector pietterson, a 13 year old boy who was gunned down and pictured being held by another schoolboy and accompanied by his weeping sister during the uprisings. hector has become the poster boy for the heartlessness displayed by the police during that year, but hundreds more died with him. soweto has not forgotten, though. a museum commemorates the uprisings. wall art surrounds the museum and neighborhoods to commemorate the young freedom fighters. the locals are friendly, and life goes on. but one cannot ignore the beating heart of soweto... it is colorful and alive, though many live in extreme poverty along the borders.
"doors of gorée"
Gorée Island is nestled just outside of the hustling city of Dakar, Senegal. It is arguably the most significant slave harbor in the world. According to our guide and local on the island, it saw to the sending off of 20 million slaves and the death of roughly 60 million on that very island. Conditions were harsh; the Atlantic Ocean surrounds the low walls of Gorée and many slaves were confined to cells that flooded to waist line and above as a means of punishment and "breaking". Slaves were separated by gender and age group. The cells are no more than 15 ft long and 12 ft wide. Women received a tiny sliver of a window that looks out onto the ocean, men did not. Rebellious slaves were sent to the "Cellule Des Recalcitrants", which is only 3 ft tall, 2 ft wide and 5 ft deep. Gorée is still inhabit aged by roughly 1,000 people. Life goes on, tours persist, local artists sell crafts to survive and there is even a girls elementary school on the island. Walking through the avenues of Gorée is both haunting and aesthetically mesmerizing. The Obama's paid a visit there only two days after me, and our guide said that many African Americans come to Gorée and sit in the cells for hours, weeping. When Bush came during his presidency, he had all the residents of the island removed. Kanye was right.... Nevertheless, Gorée changed my life forever in ways words can't express...
police presence is heavily felt in downtown dakar, awaiting my president and his posse. obama’s first appearance in senegal so happened to fall within my 4 day trip.
senegal fashion week - french cultural club
senegal IS high fashion, street fashion, international fashion… whatever you need, they really got it goin on….
the senegalese take fashion and physical presentation very seriously. dakar is the perfect blend of traditional west african meets islam meets western fashion and culture. seriously…. i need a better camera….
our tour guide, fellow researcher, senegal native and spellman college student, Rugi, took us to the french cultural center for the final festivities to close off senegal fashion week. designers from all over the globe, traditional senegalese dancers and locals squared off with a drum circle and danced the night away. clothing from brazil, france and new york hung in the backdrop.
and truly, I felt like I was in brooklyn on steroids. this was international and urban fashion at its very best.
nearby was a delicious restaurant filled with mosaic walls and bars and draped in shade by cloth canopies. there were plenty of locals and french people, which is quite common in senegal. food and drink is roughly the same cost as in the states; about $4 for a beer and $8-10 for a meal. nevertheless, my chicken burger (‘poulet’ something) was delicious and a cold corona topped the night off just right.
senegal fashion week just ended, but I managed to catch the final festivities (photos c/o Wall Street Journal)
helpless
all I’ve been saying today is “je ne parle par français”….
but my favorite line is “merci beaucoup!”
2 years of french classes in high school prove useless…
dakar, cab ride to french cultural center for fashion week celebrations.
the rule when driving the streets of senegal is that:
“there are no rules, just do what you can get away with.” -rugiyatu, native
6 am, dakar en motion. the atlantic is just beyond that wall…
the air is moist and warm but there is a nice breeze coming off the ocean. the streets are still alive with last nights club scene.